Sound deadening has started

exalted512

no ****. I was lazy today, all I did was put back in the head liner...and I scraped off some of the foam that fell onto the engine...oops.

Oo-well, the hard part is out of the way, the rest of it will go pretty easy...aside from the doors, thall be a pain.
-Cody

neomagus00

take a look and tell me if the foam is there in a week... i put a can of great stuff in the hood and another in the trunk, just to see what it could do, and a week later i checked on it... stuff in the trunk is just fine, but the stuff in the crossmembers of the hood is simply gone, without a trace... weird, no?

exalted512

yea, mines been there for over a week. Maybe you got the stuff that disolves in water??
-Cody

neomagus00

great stuff was the brand, and it was the big gap version... besides, it shouldn't hit water if it's in those crossmembers, right?

i'm very confused...

exalted512

my can is great stuff "Gaps & Cracks"

yellow top, red bottle. It has a little picture and it says airtight and waterproof
-Cody

neomagus00

hum... i'll try that...

how's the deadening coming?

exalted512

its been stopped for the last couple days. I seem to have misplaced my dome light...oops. I'll probably start up again soon. Probably not tomorrow, but I'll lay mat down in the front the day after. This project will be going on for a long...long time. School starts back up the 17th and i dont forsee me getting done with the floor before then. Actually, I'm sure of it. But the hard part is done aside from the doors, that makes me happy.
-Cody

exalted512

sound deadening has stopped for now

I ran out of sludge. Damn it. What does that mean? No carpet for me until a few more weeks so i can afford another order of this ****
Since I bought the sludge, theyve come out with this new stuff thats supposed to be better thats called firewall. So I'm going to buy 1 more gallon of sludge to finish the floor, then 3 gallons of firewall to do the doors/left over stuff, the some rattle pad and some more luxury liner. If you dont know what those are, you can find them here:
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?pg=4&p=ps

All I can do now is wait for what i have to dry, coat it with the spectrum stuff, then wait for more money to buy more deadener...
-Cody

1996blackmax

Will you be able to drive the car after all that stuff is in the car . You are going to have to pull into those truck weighing stations .

MacLeod

Dude, youre going to have that thing so airtight youll have to roll down the windows in order to close the doors! Not to mention needing an engine swap to a 5.3 liter in order to haul around the extra 2000 pounds in damping!

audiobliss

ROFL!! Roll down the windows to close the doors!

Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!

1996blackmax

buahahahahahahahahahahaha


Good one

exalted512

Actually, hes partially right. I'm sealing off the vents to allow air to escape when I shut the door...they allow too much noise through...

I wouldnt mind having the 5.3 though, or even the 6.0...or the new corvette engine...

But when I get my new alarm I'll have my window roll up module installed where I can roll the windows up and down with my remote
-Cody

audiobliss

You mean you'll have a button dedicated just to rolling the windows up and down?! That's awesome...

A friend has a WRX STi with some kind of fancy alarm. I noticed him get out of the car one day with his windows down and walk away. It caught my attention since he has a LCD and laptop hooked up to his engine management and a good bit of audio equipment as well. Next time I looked at his car the windows were rolled up. He said that when he locks the doors, all the windows roll up. I think that's just awesome.

exalted512

yea, when I lock the doors theyll automatically roll up if theyre already down, I will also be able to roll them down with the push of a button. I'll also have a mass sensor so if someone reaches into the truck the alarm will sound. Beauty of working at a car audio shop, you learn all this stuff and get discounts on all the equipment.
-Cody

MacLeod

Man I REALLY need an alarm. Ive got a ton of money invested in the gear in my truck and all Ive got to protect it is a detatchable face plate and The Club!

audiobliss

exalted512 wrote:

I'll also have a mass sensor so if someone reaches into the truck the alarm will sound.

Will it go off for 15 minutes (or however long) like usual, or will it just beep/chirp a bit at first?

exalted512

MacLeod wrote:

Man I REALLY need an alarm. Ive got a ton of money invested in the gear in my truck and all Ive got to protect it is a detatchable face plate and The Club!

Our cheapest one with keyless entry is $229 installed. Open a door, pry out a keyhole, break the glass...it goes off.

Bliss-
depends on the sensor, some are 'dual-stage' meaning if you get close, itll beep, but if you get too close, itll go off. Those are rare though. Mine will probably just go off.
-Cody

1996blackmax

MacLeod wrote:

Man I REALLY need an alarm. Ive got a ton of money invested in the gear in my truck and all Ive got to protect it is a detatchable face plate and The Club!

You are not kidding huh?

Man, what has stopped you from getting an alarm installed?

MacLeod

Well everytime I come up with the $250 or so for an alarm something else comes up, like a dire need for time alignment or new tires, brakes, $200 speeding tickets and other wonderful stuff like that.

Circuit City has a plain Jane alarm (Boa) for $100 that you can install yourself. It has only the basics like ignition kill and shock sensor but thats really all you need. Ive been unlocking my own doors for 17 years now, I suppose I dont have to spend an extra $100 on keyless entry.

1996blackmax

Just remember the install is just as important as the kind of alarm you are getting.

MacLeod

Huh?

exalted512

NO NO NO NO NO NO! Do NOT get Boa. BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD. Boa has been the crappiest alarm Ive ever put on a vehicle, DEI or not, they are total crap.

If you want, I can get you an alarm for <$100, prep it for you and mail it to you with exact directions on where to put every single wire. Youll have to hook up a total of 6 wires and thatll be with keyless entry. If you get the Boa system, even if it wasnt total crap, I guarantee you, you wouldnt be able to install it. Dodge makes things extremely complicated, but if you were to let me prep it for you it would extremely easy, just 6 wires.
-Cody

MacLeod

I trust ya bro so Ill avoid the Boa. What kind of alarm are you talking about? I cant find any that sell for less than $200.

I havent messed with the new Dodges but I installed an alarm on my 2000 Ram and it was pretty straight forward. But I had my trusty Haynes manual with its schematic complete with wire colors so it wasnt too hard to find certain wires.

exalted512

I was talking about a Carbine 4700. Those are the alarms that we sell. Theyre made by Magnadyne which is the same maker of Marksman, the remote start I have on my truck. Very good alarms.

2000 Rams werent that bad, keyless entry is kind of a pain in the **** but everything else is pretty straight forward. But now a lot of the stuff goes through resistance and you need relays and resistors. For instance your parking light wire is now through a 330 ohm resistor and you have to have a relay to boost the signal. Keyless entry is only one wire, it unlocks with a strong ground signal and locks with a not strong ground signal...if that makes sense. So you have to use resistors and 2 relays. The good thing about that is that if i do it for you, all you have to do is hook up one wire. Door trigger isnt one single wire like it used to be either, its now 4 seperate ones that you have to tag each one. Or you can do what we do and find a wire in the a-pillar that goes off with the domelight, everytime you open the door the dome light goes off so it works just as fine.
-Cody

exalted512

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Carbine-PLUS-4700-2-Ch-Remote-Security-System_W0QQitemZ9700875747QQcategoryZ48611QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
-Cody

MacLeod

Wow! It use to be so much simpler. The hardest part was trying to find the wire.

That settles it tho, I defintely wouldnt let Circuit City or Best Buy install it for me!

exalted512

This is where the back seat should be. The light blue is what hasnt dried yet...I put it on thick so it takes a little longer to dry;) The back wall will also have mat and be sludged. The mat that you see there will also be 'sludged'.

Same thing, broader view.

Front seat. The stuff in the middle is what needs to be covered. You can also see the 'factory' deadening towards the front of the truck. I'm leaving it there simply because its too hard to remove. Theres a layer of mat that i put under it. Im going to put a small layer of sludge and I'm going put a thick layer in front of it and go up a few inches on top of it essentially "binding" it to the sludge in the floorboard.

A better shot of the factory deadening

Heres the hood. Damplifier Pro + 'Great Stuff' foam from Home Depot in the cross members. I have a "motor mat" from second skin that will go on top of that when I have time again. Which is looking more and more like itll be summer.


I ordered some more sludge to finish the floor and back wall. I also got some of their new stuff called "Firewall" to the doors in. Its supposed to be 1.5x better than sludge. I also ordered some stuff thats called Rattle Pad thatll go in the doors. And some more "luxury liner" Half will go in the doors, the other half will go where the back seat is supposed to be. I have some more luxury liner thatll go between the front seats and the factory deadening. This has been a very, very expensive project. Lets just say this is THE most expensive thing I've put in my truck yet.





Mac-If you just buy the alarm and have it sent to me, I'll prep it for you and send it to you with directions on where to find the wire and what color it is. Is your truck an 03? 1500? I promise you, youll hook up twice as many wires hooking up your radio as an alarm. For that alarm and your truck you need to tag the
12V->ignition harness
Switched power->ignition harness
Ground->anywhere metal
Door trigger->a-pillar
lock/unlock->kick panel
parking lights->at the switch
-Cody

deepinya

cody, hook a brutha up with a discount

Ill be getting some firewall for the floor but its going down first and then the damp.

exalted512

the rest of it is coming on friday!! too bad i dont have anytime to put it in for a while...
-Cody