Sony xplod box is done
Still learning
Posts: 107
Here are some pics of the box i made for that 10" sony, the SQ came out pretty good for the sony the only thing that bothers me is the terminals, they kind of get in the way.I panted the box red to match the coil and put in crome ports, i also siliconed the box, so its kind of a closed/ported box, this box was made to fit into a small area, thats why its tall and wide, not deep. Here they are.....
Sony box 1
Sony box 2
Sony box 3 Sony box 4 Sony box 5 Sony box 6 Sony box 7
Sony box 1
Sony box 2
Sony box 3 Sony box 4 Sony box 5 Sony box 6 Sony box 7
KDC-MP5028- Kenwood deck
Phoenix Gold speaker wire
Alpine 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speakers- SPR17LP-, in side doors
Alpine 5x7" Type R speakers -SPR-574A-, in the back.
2 Alpine type R subwoofers in custom box
1000 watt Alpine -MRD-M1005- AMP
-Price invested- Over 1500$
Not the absolute best, but it works like a champ, you can hear it from like 2 or 3 blocks away from your stand point.
Phoenix Gold speaker wire
Alpine 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speakers- SPR17LP-, in side doors
Alpine 5x7" Type R speakers -SPR-574A-, in the back.
2 Alpine type R subwoofers in custom box
1000 watt Alpine -MRD-M1005- AMP
-Price invested- Over 1500$
Not the absolute best, but it works like a champ, you can hear it from like 2 or 3 blocks away from your stand point.
Post edited by Still learning on
Comments
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hmm... its not a bad little box, It has that "antique" "hand built" feel, minus the chrome and garish sony
i would reccomend adding a few more screws to the sides, front, and bottom just to keep it tight (the back looks like it has enough going down the sides). And iirc, ports do better when theyre on the same face as the sub, but if it sounds good to you, then it is good.
Speaking of the sony, im guessing the two sets of terminals are for the two coils, just remember ohm's law
what are u going to use it for anyway?
and just a few general questions...
To whom do those feet belong in the 6th photo?
and lastly, are u a big hotwheels fan? lolPicking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery
System in the works:
PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S -
Well, i took these pictures on my back steps and my little brother(10 yrs old)was in side the sliding window area, those hot wheels are his, but i play with them all the time right?????.... LOL, anyways, i thought about putting the ports on the top, but i hade no clue that where the ports are placed had anything to do with the quality of the sound? could you explane please? For where the sub is going, im going to hook it up in my little brothers car (17 yrs old). The amp is a 2 & 2, I.E 2 way (sterio), two out 2 ohms each, the sub is 300 watts RMS, is there anything wrong with this set up? Because i dont want to hook it up, and screw up the speaker. Thanks.........oh and i have all of the wood glued together, then i screwed the front, sides, top, and bottom together first, so i could put silicone in the cracks there, then i put the back on and throught the speaker hole i sealed the back cracks.
P.S.- Its hooked up to a mono 300 watt amp right now and i can here some viberating from the box and i dont know how, why, or where the hell its coming from?????KDC-MP5028- Kenwood deck
Phoenix Gold speaker wire
Alpine 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speakers- SPR17LP-, in side doors
Alpine 5x7" Type R speakers -SPR-574A-, in the back.
2 Alpine type R subwoofers in custom box
1000 watt Alpine -MRD-M1005- AMP
-Price invested- Over 1500$
Not the absolute best, but it works like a champ, you can hear it from like 2 or 3 blocks away from your stand point. -
Still learning wrote:P.S.- Its hooked up to a mono 300 watt amp right now and i can here some viberating from the box and i dont know how, why, or where the hell its coming from?????
is the box making the noise or the ports? I bet the problem is the port but I might be mistaken... Are those metal ports? wood? plastic?
Is the box made to specs?<|> -
You should carpet the box. Ive never been a big fan of painted boxes, they look kinda amateurish. It looks like an excellent box though. Very solid looking.polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st
polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D -
The ports are plastic dipped in crome, i got them off of e-bay for 2$(including shipping) there also tube like 5 inches in so they are just a little extra thing, the ports viberating? how in the hell dose that work? As far as the carpeting thing, i thought about it but then i wanted a color that matches the coil, and thats what i did, but now that i did it, i agree with MacLeod, it looks too hamemadish if you know what i mean, but i dont know how im going to carpet it, i mean the box is fully put together. So could someone explane to me the whold viberating and ports thing?KDC-MP5028- Kenwood deck
Phoenix Gold speaker wire
Alpine 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speakers- SPR17LP-, in side doors
Alpine 5x7" Type R speakers -SPR-574A-, in the back.
2 Alpine type R subwoofers in custom box
1000 watt Alpine -MRD-M1005- AMP
-Price invested- Over 1500$
Not the absolute best, but it works like a champ, you can hear it from like 2 or 3 blocks away from your stand point. -
well, vibrating could be a lot of things, it could be the wood of the box flexing if its half an inch thick or less, the ports could be loose and vibrating, or if u used a lot of wire inside the box, the wire could be smacking against one of the ports or the side of the box...
Disclaimer: This is just what I think the whole having the port on the same side as the woofer is all about, I could be wrong, its happened before
The idea of having the ports on the same face as the woofer is to reinforce the sound coming from the speaker... like to keep everything flowing in the same direction, because u have those ports aiming sideways, u have the sound flying around everywhere, making it sound a lil weaker, not as focused.
As for the amp setup, its not a stereo speaker, it has to be hooked to a mono amp, or a bridged two channel, running it in stereo will most likely kill it.Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery
System in the works:
PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S -
running a separate channel to each coil won't hurt it, but it may not be extracting the best performance your amp has to offer...It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon
"Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs -
I remember reading that running each coil on a seperate channel was bad, since not all recordings are perfectly balanced u could have the coils doing different things and have it tear itself apart...Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery
System in the works:
PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S -
no, it wouldn't hurt it, even if you have totally different signals going to the two coils... the two coils interact to produce a single magnetic field, which then interacts with the magnet to move the cone...It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon
"Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs -
Ok so you suggest that i just **** it up to a sterio amp and hook bolth terminals up to the same channel? Would i get more proformance this way? or would a one channel 300 watt RMS mono amp give me more power, I mean 300 watts RMS for the amp will be giving the sub 300 watts RMS, and the subs watt handeling is 300 watts RMS, therefor a mono amp 300 watts RMS, would be the ideal thing.With the sterio amp that is 300 watts RMS, the watts are divided between the two channels, thus- I would only get 150 watts RMS from each channel, and i would be only using one channel for the two terminals so i would really only have 150 watts RMS to the sub right?KDC-MP5028- Kenwood deck
Phoenix Gold speaker wire
Alpine 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speakers- SPR17LP-, in side doors
Alpine 5x7" Type R speakers -SPR-574A-, in the back.
2 Alpine type R subwoofers in custom box
1000 watt Alpine -MRD-M1005- AMP
-Price invested- Over 1500$
Not the absolute best, but it works like a champ, you can hear it from like 2 or 3 blocks away from your stand point. -
um... I think ill back away slowly and let neo handle this, since he seems to know more than i do
Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery
System in the works:
PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S -
ok, what amp would you guys suggest for me to hook up to the sony sub, that would be as close as 300 watts RMS possable put through the sub, because i want to put all the watts i can through it with out killing it. I dont want to have to bridge it, it seems to complicated.:)KDC-MP5028- Kenwood deck
Phoenix Gold speaker wire
Alpine 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speakers- SPR17LP-, in side doors
Alpine 5x7" Type R speakers -SPR-574A-, in the back.
2 Alpine type R subwoofers in custom box
1000 watt Alpine -MRD-M1005- AMP
-Price invested- Over 1500$
Not the absolute best, but it works like a champ, you can hear it from like 2 or 3 blocks away from your stand point. -
bridging is actually simpler... but the amp we reccommend depends on your budget... do you have any laying around you could use? if so, what are they (model numbers, if possible)?
if you want to do some looking, you want an amp that can do 300W x 1 Channel @ 2 Ohms (assuming your sub is a dual 4-ohm coil model)... that can be a mono amp, or a stereo amp bridged to mono... the stereo option is 150W x 2 Channels @ 4 Ohms, which requires an amp that's twice as powerful, so unless there's a really good deal or you already have one, find one that matches the first spec... if you must choose between over- or under- powering the sub, choose over...It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon
"Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs -
painted boxes can look much better than carpeted boxes, it just depends on how you do it. Next time, buy a small can of resin and wood filler. Fill in all the screw holes and the seams, put resin on top of that and paint over that after everything is smoothed out.
my next box will be painted. To give you an idea of what it can look like with some time put into it, click here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/blazenlo/DSC00615.jpg
-CodyMusic is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it -
thats wrong unless i missed something, which could very well be true because i only scanned through the thread. Especially if your amplifier has a seperate gain for each channel. thats like saying you can hook up 2 amps to each coil and not gain matching would be ok.neomagus00 wrote:no, it wouldn't hurt it, even if you have totally different signals going to the two coils... the two coils interact to produce a single magnetic field, which then interacts with the magnet to move the cone...
heres another picture of that box
-CodyMusic is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it -
^someone paid atention in art class so, cody, are u agreeing with me that the sub's coils should be on the same channel, either 2 bridged or 1 mono? Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery
System in the works:
PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S -
i have no clue why anyone would run a 2-channel amp in stereo on a single dvc sub. It can be done if its gain matched, but theres not really a point
-CodyMusic is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it -
yay! I knew i wasnt completely inept Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery
System in the works:
PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S -
btw does that box say audiobahn on it? lolPicking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery
System in the works:
PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S -
<|>
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hellohello wrote:
Disclaimer: This is just what I think the whole having the port on the same side as the woofer is all about, I could be wrong, its happened before
The idea of having the ports on the same face as the woofer is to reinforce the sound coming from the speaker... like to keep everything flowing in the same direction, because u have those ports aiming sideways, u have the sound flying around everywhere, making it sound a lil weaker, not as focused.
I have a question about the whole reinforcement of sound. If you were to build a box that is long/deep rather than tall and wide, wouldent that have a megaphone effect. If you think about it, when sombody screems down a long hollow tube the sound is magnified, therefor if you were to build a long/deep box it would magnify the bass, yes? or am i sounding like a complete crazy person?KDC-MP5028- Kenwood deck
Phoenix Gold speaker wire
Alpine 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speakers- SPR17LP-, in side doors
Alpine 5x7" Type R speakers -SPR-574A-, in the back.
2 Alpine type R subwoofers in custom box
1000 watt Alpine -MRD-M1005- AMP
-Price invested- Over 1500$
Not the absolute best, but it works like a champ, you can hear it from like 2 or 3 blocks away from your stand point. -
neomagus00 wrote:bridging is actually simpler... but the amp we reccommend depends on your budget... do you have any laying around you could use? if so, what are they (model numbers, if possible)?
if you want to do some looking, you want an amp that can do 300W x 1 Channel @ 2 Ohms (assuming your sub is a dual 4-ohm coil model)... that can be a mono amp, or a stereo amp bridged to mono... the stereo option is 150W x 2 Channels @ 4 Ohms, which requires an amp that's twice as powerful, so unless there's a really good deal or you already have one, find one that matches the first spec... if you must choose between over- or under- powering the sub, choose over...
I dont want to spend more than $250 for an amp, if i can buy something good that fits this that would be great; i dont have anythig laying around, its hooked up to my brothers amp now so......
If you have a suggestion for the amp, 300 watt RMS, that would be cool, thanksKDC-MP5028- Kenwood deck
Phoenix Gold speaker wire
Alpine 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speakers- SPR17LP-, in side doors
Alpine 5x7" Type R speakers -SPR-574A-, in the back.
2 Alpine type R subwoofers in custom box
1000 watt Alpine -MRD-M1005- AMP
-Price invested- Over 1500$
Not the absolute best, but it works like a champ, you can hear it from like 2 or 3 blocks away from your stand point. -
CrBoy wrote:Yes... WTF!!!
But come on, that is a sexy **** box...i put a subzero decal on my box for my alpines...KDC-MP5028- Kenwood deck
Phoenix Gold speaker wire
Alpine 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speakers- SPR17LP-, in side doors
Alpine 5x7" Type R speakers -SPR-574A-, in the back.
2 Alpine type R subwoofers in custom box
1000 watt Alpine -MRD-M1005- AMP
-Price invested- Over 1500$
Not the absolute best, but it works like a champ, you can hear it from like 2 or 3 blocks away from your stand point. -
so i should over power the sub? how the hell? why would i do that? would i just turn down the bass level on the deck?neomagus00 wrote:unless there's a really good deal or you already have one, find one that matches the first spec... if you must choose between over- or under- powering the sub, choose over...KDC-MP5028- Kenwood deck
Phoenix Gold speaker wire
Alpine 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speakers- SPR17LP-, in side doors
Alpine 5x7" Type R speakers -SPR-574A-, in the back.
2 Alpine type R subwoofers in custom box
1000 watt Alpine -MRD-M1005- AMP
-Price invested- Over 1500$
Not the absolute best, but it works like a champ, you can hear it from like 2 or 3 blocks away from your stand point. -
exalted512 wrote:painted boxes can look much better than carpeted boxes, it just depends on how you do it. Next time, buy a small can of resin and wood filler. Fill in all the screw holes and the seams, put resin on top of that and paint over that after everything is smoothed out.
-Cody
I thought about it, but i didnt want to get to expensive for a sony x-plod box after all....KDC-MP5028- Kenwood deck
Phoenix Gold speaker wire
Alpine 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speakers- SPR17LP-, in side doors
Alpine 5x7" Type R speakers -SPR-574A-, in the back.
2 Alpine type R subwoofers in custom box
1000 watt Alpine -MRD-M1005- AMP
-Price invested- Over 1500$
Not the absolute best, but it works like a champ, you can hear it from like 2 or 3 blocks away from your stand point. -
i am just now realising this... When an amp is-
300w RMS x 1 @4-ohm
300w RMS x 1 @2-ohm
I would choose the 300w x 1 @2-ohm and hook that up to bolth coils because the sony is 4-ohms right?KDC-MP5028- Kenwood deck
Phoenix Gold speaker wire
Alpine 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speakers- SPR17LP-, in side doors
Alpine 5x7" Type R speakers -SPR-574A-, in the back.
2 Alpine type R subwoofers in custom box
1000 watt Alpine -MRD-M1005- AMP
-Price invested- Over 1500$
Not the absolute best, but it works like a champ, you can hear it from like 2 or 3 blocks away from your stand point. -
I was just curious as to what the box said, wasnt trying to incite rioting...
As for the Long/deep thing, it doesnt amplify the sound, it slows it down so as to emphasize the bass, think of a trombone, when u slide the bar out, u make the tube longer, and the sound gets deeper, not louder.
Now as for the amp, you have to tell us the model of the woofer, i dont mean Sony Xpold, thats the manufacturer and model line, theyre should be a model no. on the magnet of the speaker, if your in doubt, take the speaker out of the box and take a picture of the back of the magnet and post it here just make sure it isnt too blurry Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery
System in the works:
PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S -
hellohello wrote:I was just curious as to what the box said, wasnt trying to incite rioting...
As for the Long/deep thing, it doesnt amplify the sound, it slows it down so as to emphasize the bass, think of a trombone, when u slide the bar out, u make the tube longer, and the sound gets deeper, not louder.
Now as for the amp, you have to tell us the model of the woofer, i dont mean Sony Xpold, thats the manufacturer and model line, theyre should be a model no. on the magnet of the speaker, if your in doubt, take the speaker out of the box and take a picture of the back of the magnet and post it here just make sure it isnt too blurry
heres a pic of the back
Mod no-KDC-MP5028- Kenwood deck
Phoenix Gold speaker wire
Alpine 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speakers- SPR17LP-, in side doors
Alpine 5x7" Type R speakers -SPR-574A-, in the back.
2 Alpine type R subwoofers in custom box
1000 watt Alpine -MRD-M1005- AMP
-Price invested- Over 1500$
Not the absolute best, but it works like a champ, you can hear it from like 2 or 3 blocks away from your stand point. -
KDC-MP5028- Kenwood deck
Phoenix Gold speaker wire
Alpine 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speakers- SPR17LP-, in side doors
Alpine 5x7" Type R speakers -SPR-574A-, in the back.
2 Alpine type R subwoofers in custom box
1000 watt Alpine -MRD-M1005- AMP
-Price invested- Over 1500$
Not the absolute best, but it works like a champ, you can hear it from like 2 or 3 blocks away from your stand point. -
h'okay... cody - you can power each coil with wildly different signals, not gain-matched, even with one off, and it won't ever hurt the sub... notice that i never said going the stereo route was the best idea available...
SL - the shape of the box has no effect on a subwoofer, unless you start to get really crazy shapes with channels and shiite, then it can get a little weird, but not by much even then... and you want to overpower rather than underpower a sub (if you must choose between the two - obviously a dead-on rating is best) because then run into the sub's suspension limits before you hit the amp's clipping limits, and clipping wrecks subs much more easily and inaudibly than exceeding xmax... finally, your sub is, i believe, a dual 4-ohm sub, in that it has two voice coils (thus dual) that are each 4 ohms... put them both on a single channel and you have the choice of 2 or 8 ohms, and for cost reasons you choose 2...It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon
"Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
