how to untwist the plastic terminal caps?
Comments
-
> If the current coil is damaged/cooked those domes are what you need.
any way to test if this is the issue?
worth mentioning that when I take the entire front casing that has the tweeter from the "working" speaker and put it on the broken one, that one sounds fine. So crossover or connection is not an issue. Issue is within the actual tweeter "system" (idk what to call it).
I got the shot speaker with the dome visibly broken too, if this can give any clue--see attached picture - dome perimieter is cracked
-
If you have a VOM you can test the tweeter by disconnecting the lead wires and check for continuity between the two tabs on the tweeter.
Looking at the photo you posted it appears the dome shows signs of bubbling around the edges, which indicates the coils are cooked.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thank you again so much! I will look into doing that tomorrow--and yes, i do have a multimeter, which i assume is the same thing. I will report back!
-
Turmoil6909 wrote: »Thank you again so much! I will look into doing that tomorrow--and yes, i do have a multimeter, which i assume is the same thing. I will report back!
Yes, same thing.I'm 99.9999999% sure your tweeter is cooked just by looking at it.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The rt800i was essentially the tower version of the rt55i
Tweeter wise the Rt35i, rt55i, rt600i, rt800i, etc all used the same tweeter mounting wise.
The rt25i and rt15 used a standard screw mounted flange- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
If you have a VOM you can test the tweeter by disconnecting the lead wires and check for continuity between the two tabs on the tweeter.
Looking at the photo you posted it appears the dome shows signs of bubbling around the edges, which indicates the coils are cooked.
On continuity setting, the working one reads 0.05 and the broken one has no reading. Any way to test whether I need a new coil or the entire tweeter then? Thanks.Post edited by Turmoil6909 on -
Your test shows you need either the dome/coil or an entire tweeter if you don't want to repair it yourself.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Call me skeptical on the "good" one. Shouldn't it test higher than 0.05 ohms? That is very low. My thoughts are you should buy two from Polk. Tell them you're a Polk forum member for a small discount.Turmoil6909 wrote: »On continuity setting, the working one reads 0.05 and the broken one has no reading. Any way to test whether I need a new coil or the entire tweeter then? Thanks.
-
^Good Advice^
I'm assuming he meant 5 ohms, which might still be off as I believe those are rated at 6 ohms.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Will re-test and look into that. I have already tried calling, though, no replacement parts available. If both are shot, then it's not worth repairing for me. I will wait for someone to list speakers with same tweeters on FB and salvage those tweeters instead.
-
Anyways, assuming the other is fine, here is the broken tweeter I opened up. Does everything look ok? Would I need anything besides a new coil/dome and a soldering iron?
Thanks
-
It's COOKED!!!Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
It's COOKED!!!
What does that mean for my repair options
speakers are not my thing man... -
Call me skeptical on the "good" one. Shouldn't it test higher than 0.05 ohms? That is very low. My thoughts are you should buy two from Polk. Tell them you're a Polk forum member for a small discount.Turmoil6909 wrote: »On continuity setting, the working one reads 0.05 and the broken one has no reading. Any way to test whether I need a new coil or the entire tweeter then? Thanks.^Good Advice^
I'm assuming he meant 5 ohms, which might still be off as I believe those are rated at 6 ohms.
I got a reading of 5.7 ohms. All good i think -
Once again, you need a new dome/coil or an entirely new tweeter.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Turmoil6909 wrote: »
Call me skeptical on the "good" one. Shouldn't it test higher than 0.05 ohms? That is very low. My thoughts are you should buy two from Polk. Tell them you're a Polk forum member for a small discount.Turmoil6909 wrote: »On continuity setting, the working one reads 0.05 and the broken one has no reading. Any way to test whether I need a new coil or the entire tweeter then? Thanks.^Good Advice^
I'm assuming he meant 5 ohms, which might still be off as I believe those are rated at 6 ohms.
I got a reading of 5.7 ohms. All good i think
That one is good.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Once again, you need a new dome/coil or an entirely new tweeter.
Okay yes I figured. Is there a high chance of a new dome/coil alone fixing it or is it possible something else has gone wrong too? Also, is there anything I need to be cognizant of when installing it? - is there a tutorial somewhere or is it literally just unsolder the old one, place the new one in the centre, solder it on.
Worth mentioning there is a brown liquid on the coil that rubs off on my fingers.... (see pic)
Thanks again very much everyone for the help. This stuff is all brand new to me lol -
I would get a DNA test on that fluid2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
Turmoil6909 wrote: »Once again, you need a new dome/coil or an entirely new tweeter.
Okay yes I figured. Is there a high chance of a new dome/coil alone fixing it or is it possible something else has gone wrong too? Also, is there anything I need to be cognizant of when installing it? - is there a tutorial somewhere or is it literally just unsolder the old one, place the new one in the centre, solder it on.
Worth mentioning there is a brown liquid on the coil that rubs off on my fingers.... (see pic)
Thanks again very much everyone for the help. This stuff is all brand new to me lol
Ok, the brown material is Ferrofluid. It is highly likely it is no longer any good due to the high temperature the tweeter has seen, so you'd need to remove the old fluid and replace with new.
There should be videos online detailing both.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Turmoil6909 wrote: »Once again, you need a new dome/coil or an entirely new tweeter.
Okay yes I figured. Is there a high chance of a new dome/coil alone fixing it or is it possible something else has gone wrong too? Also, is there anything I need to be cognizant of when installing it? - is there a tutorial somewhere or is it literally just unsolder the old one, place the new one in the centre, solder it on.
Worth mentioning there is a brown liquid on the coil that rubs off on my fingers.... (see pic)
Thanks again very much everyone for the help. This stuff is all brand new to me lol
Ok, the brown material is Ferrofluid. It is highly likely it is no longer any good due to the high temperature the tweeter has seen, so you'd need to remove the old fluid and replace with new.
There should be videos online detailing both.
Yes, I was shared a video on how to replace Ferrofluid on my last thread. Unfortunately, I live in Canada and it is illegal to buy (import too? idk) Ferrofluid here. Should I just wait for used tweeters on facebook then? -
it's really and completely dead.
Yes, source a (working) replacement. -
Turmoil6909 wrote: »Turmoil6909 wrote: »Once again, you need a new dome/coil or an entirely new tweeter.
Okay yes I figured. Is there a high chance of a new dome/coil alone fixing it or is it possible something else has gone wrong too? Also, is there anything I need to be cognizant of when installing it? - is there a tutorial somewhere or is it literally just unsolder the old one, place the new one in the centre, solder it on.
Worth mentioning there is a brown liquid on the coil that rubs off on my fingers.... (see pic)
Thanks again very much everyone for the help. This stuff is all brand new to me lol
Ok, the brown material is Ferrofluid. It is highly likely it is no longer any good due to the high temperature the tweeter has seen, so you'd need to remove the old fluid and replace with new.
There should be videos online detailing both.
Yes, I was shared a video on how to replace Ferrofluid on my last thread. Unfortunately, I live in Canada and it is illegal to buy (import too? idk) Ferrofluid here. Should I just wait for used tweeters on facebook then?
Why in the world would Ferrofluid be illegal!?!Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
It is an ex-tweeter, it has joined the heavenly choir, it is pushing up daisies.
-
I found this tidbit.
"if you want small quantity for tweeters repairs, Parts Express in USA will ship them to you.
But there is a special customs fee and delay , it took me 30 days to gets 2 x 100uL (micro-liters)
and it end-up at $30cnd here."
I also saw mention that you can get Parts Express to ship via the USPS instead of UPS to Canada to avoid the BS UPS handling fees.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I found this tidbit.
"if you want small quantity for tweeters repairs, Parts Express in USA will ship them to you.
But there is a special customs fee and delay , it took me 30 days to gets 2 x 100uL (micro-liters)
and it end-up at $30cnd here."
I also saw mention that you can get Parts Express to ship via the USPS instead of UPS to Canada to avoid the BS UPS handling fees.
Not gonna lie... at that point i'm paying 60 bucks (ferrofluid + coil + i have to do the soldering work) to repair a tweeter when i can pay scammy ebay tax to get a fully functioning (with new ferrofluid) for 80. I will probably just end up waiting on a facebook marketplace sale and salvage those tweeters instead.
Thanks though, but I think I'm defeated for now
-
SeleniumFalcon wrote: »It is an ex-tweeter, it has joined the heavenly choir, it is pushing up daisies.
Pining for the fjords.
-
Turmoil6909 wrote: »I found this tidbit.
"if you want small quantity for tweeters repairs, Parts Express in USA will ship them to you.
But there is a special customs fee and delay , it took me 30 days to gets 2 x 100uL (micro-liters)
and it end-up at $30cnd here."
I also saw mention that you can get Parts Express to ship via the USPS instead of UPS to Canada to avoid the BS UPS handling fees.
Not gonna lie... at that point i'm paying 60 bucks (ferrofluid + coil + i have to do the soldering work) to repair a tweeter when i can pay scammy ebay tax to get a fully functioning (with new ferrofluid) for 80. I will probably just end up waiting on a facebook marketplace sale and salvage those tweeters instead.
Thanks though, but I think I'm defeated for now
Somebody might be able to sneak a tweeter through the Haskell Free Library in lovely Derby Line, VT...
US and Canadian authorities, please note! I am not volunteering nor am I suggesting anything. I am just saying.
https://newengland.com/travel/vermont/the-haskell-free-library-and-opera-house/
-
mhardy6647 wrote: »Turmoil6909 wrote: »I found this tidbit.
"if you want small quantity for tweeters repairs, Parts Express in USA will ship them to you.
But there is a special customs fee and delay , it took me 30 days to gets 2 x 100uL (micro-liters)
and it end-up at $30cnd here."
I also saw mention that you can get Parts Express to ship via the USPS instead of UPS to Canada to avoid the BS UPS handling fees.
Not gonna lie... at that point i'm paying 60 bucks (ferrofluid + coil + i have to do the soldering work) to repair a tweeter when i can pay scammy ebay tax to get a fully functioning (with new ferrofluid) for 80. I will probably just end up waiting on a facebook marketplace sale and salvage those tweeters instead.
Thanks though, but I think I'm defeated for now
Somebody might be able to sneak a tweeter through the Haskell Free Library in lovely Derby Line, VT...
US and Canadian authorities, please note! I am not volunteering nor am I suggesting anything. I am just saying.
https://newengland.com/travel/vermont/the-haskell-free-library-and-opera-house/
If anyone would like to (allegedly) help me out with this, lmk
But on a serious note, aliexpress does sell ferrofluid. Reviews say they have used it to fix tweeters and it has worked. Is this a bad idea? Might be the last possibility besides buying an entire new tweeter or scavenging facebook marketplace -
I think the stuff from Aliexpress is full of nanites waiting for future instruction when the invasion begins.
I disabled signatures. -
I wouldn't trust anything from Aliexpress.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
