how to untwist the plastic terminal caps?
Turmoil6909
Posts: 29
Hey everyone. This is gonna sound really stupid, i know.
I am looking to replace the jumper on my RT800i's with wire. On one speaker, the tops unscrewed relatively easy. These ones [pic below] are being a PITA. I have tried 3 different sets of pliers, I have tried pulling out the jumper (too tight, does not work) and I still can't get these things to untwist. You can see the damage I have already done to the plastic Any suggestions?
Thanks
I am looking to replace the jumper on my RT800i's with wire. On one speaker, the tops unscrewed relatively easy. These ones [pic below] are being a PITA. I have tried 3 different sets of pliers, I have tried pulling out the jumper (too tight, does not work) and I still can't get these things to untwist. You can see the damage I have already done to the plastic Any suggestions?
Thanks
Comments
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Use a ratchet with the correct size socket. Untighten. Done.
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Oh my gosh. that makes me feel really stupid. That was super easy lol, no idea why I never thought of that thanks
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^^^agree
But that's really weird they wouldn't loosen with pliers.
Did you get these used by chance?
They don't come all the way off, but possibly damaged/forced/cross-threaded/JB Welded at some point.
Righty Tghty Lefty Loosey, right? I mean, correct?
Be careful, even with ratchet and socket, could just snap the plastic off the metal nut inside.I disabled signatures. -
Some are not removable in my experience, ie if you force them off they may not go back on again.
Why do you need to remove them? They are really easy to remove from the bottom- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
I believe that the OP wants to remove the factory stamped steel jumpers with some good quality wire jumpers.
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Just cut them off with wire cutters the stock ones are junk anyways then install wire- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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> Did you get these used by chance?
Yes. But the ratchet method worked fine and everything still screws properly. All good. -
> Just cut them off with wire cutters the stock ones are junk anyways then install wire
Thanks @VR3 , this is what I was planning on doing.
It's fine if I use bare wire as a jumper if I am using bare wire to connect to amp too, no? Like basically inside each terminal bare wire "hole" I would have the jumper wire, and I would have a bare wire going to the amp as well in the same hole (top terminal only)?
Edit: let me take a picture real quick so this makes sense -
Like this. Given the stock metal plate jumpers came off, it's ok to do a bare wire jumper like this right? If I had some money I would just buy the banana plug ones, but I'm a broke student ;(
Thanks again everyone
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Yes no problem, imo better than banana plugs- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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Bare wire and lamp cord suck.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
When you are a broke student, they don't.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
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Speaking of, these replacement tweeters look expensive.... jeez.... if anyone can get me SL6506 tweeters at a better price than ebay please DM me
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~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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Thank you!
Anyways, I am going to switch the tweeter housing between my speakers to make sure that is the only thing that is broken and not the crossover or one of the other drivers
Edit: with tweeters switched, right speaker now sounds normal. so it's confirmed, tweeter is only issue.Post edited by Turmoil6909 on -
Turmoil6909 wrote: »Speaking of, these replacement tweeters look expensive.... jeez.... if anyone can get me SL6506 tweeters at a better price than ebay please DM me
To be honest it's a supply and demand thing. They are no longer made and the supply dictates the price.
On the other hand give polk CS a call. The last time I checked for spares for my RT55i they offered a different tweeter.
I had been looking for some for a while, with no luck. Unfortunately, the SL6506 has been upgraded to the SL6511, so you would need to get two to match.
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Turmoil6909 wrote: »Speaking of, these replacement tweeters look expensive.... jeez.... if anyone can get me SL6506 tweeters at a better price than ebay please DM me
To be honest it's a supply and demand thing. They are no longer made and the supply dictates the price.
On the other hand give polk CS a call. The last time I checked for spares for my RT55i they offered a different tweeter.
I had been looking for some for a while, with no luck. Unfortunately, the SL6506 has been upgraded to the SL6511, so you would need to get two to match.
Any difference in sound since the domes seem to be different materials? -
Turmoil6909 wrote: »Speaking of, these replacement tweeters look expensive.... jeez.... if anyone can get me SL6506 tweeters at a better price than ebay please DM me
On the other hand give polk CS a call. The last time I checked for spares for my RT55i they offered a different tweeter.
I did call. They just gave me the part number (oddly, SL6502 instead of SL6506-which mine say) and said to look for a third party seller -
You may want to look for a trashed pair of lower level brother speakers offered at a less than cheap price. Contact the seller and tell him/her to trash the speaker itself but send you the tweeters with the leads still intact.
(Just a thought). They would have to have knowledge on how to send the tweets without damage though. That may be a challenge....
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
You may want to look for a trashed pair of lower level brother speakers offered at a less than cheap price. Contact the seller and tell him/her to trash the speaker itself but send you the tweeters with the leads still intact.
(Just a thought). They would have to have knowledge on how to send the tweets without damage though. That may be a challenge....
Tom
Thank you. Yes, I was looking into doing this. do you happen to know the difference between SL6502 and SL6506? And which speakers would have either of these so I could look around? -
That would better be answered by other members. I am unfamiliar with Polk tweeters, other than the most common issues and stock numbers.
Hang loose. I am fully confident that someone will chime in with an answer. Please keep in mind that this is a forum....many folks are in bed or doing something other than posting by 10 EST.
If you don't get an immediate answer....have patience, young grasshopper...
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Rt35i and up- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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Nice. Thanks Trey.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Rt35i and up
Thank you. Sorry, I am unfamiliar with Polk lineup. What do you mean by "and up"? I would assume the newest Polk releases don't use the same tweeters?
I found another thread that says tweeters are the same in the "RT55, RT600, RT800, RT1000 and RT2000 (regardless of whether they are "i" or "p" series" - but i'm not sure if this is referring to SL6502 or SL6506
Thanks again very much! -
The SL6502 and SL6506 are interchangeable.
If you are handy...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/145857250600?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=kkyngzhwqyi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPYPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The SL6502 and SL6506 are interchangeable.
If you are handy...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/145857250600?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=kkyngzhwqyi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Ok, that makes sense, thanks. I think I would need the actual tweeter, too, since I am getting no sound out of it at all with the "paper towel roll test." Only replacing the dome would not fix this, right? -
Turmoil6909 wrote: »The SL6502 and SL6506 are interchangeable.
If you are handy...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/145857250600?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=kkyngzhwqyi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Ok, that makes sense, thanks. I think I would need the actual tweeter, too, since I am getting no sound out of it at all with the "paper towel roll test." Only replacing the dome would not fix this, right?
The domes include the voice coils, which is what carries the signal. If the current coil is damaged/cooked those domes are what you need.
I'm not sure about those tweeters, but they may use Ferrofluid, which can turn into a fairly hard sludge and prevent the tweeter from producing sound.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk