CSW Henry Kloss Tower II - no audio in bottom 2 speakers

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haasenstein
haasenstein Posts: 5
edited April 20 in Troubleshooting
Hello,
I have the jumpers, but no sound is coming out of the bottom two speakers in only one of the towers. The other tower is working fine. I've tried removing jumpers and having both sets of speaker wires connected. I've tried with and without banana plugs. I took off the plug panel and made sure the wires matched the one that's working. The jumpers work because regardless of which set (top or bottom) connectors are used, only the same top two higher range speakers activate. Any ideas?
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Answers

  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,478
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    You could take out woofers & test them. OR. You could try swapping the woofers that are not working with into the other cabinet & see if it follows. This would show you if the woofers are ok & it would narrow it down some.. I would suggest while your in there to look at all wires & look at capacitors on the crossover. If you have ways to check values with a meter & compare to good cabinet. I don't know the speaker-maybe someone else will chime in. Good luck
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    Randy/Maine
  • haasenstein
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    Thanks! I appreciate what you said...totally makes sense. I unscrewed one of the speakers but can't get it out and don't want to cause damage. I have never tested/repaired speakers (or anything in an audio chain) before.
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,478
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    Understand that. Looks like only access is at lower woofers too.
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    Randy/Maine
  • haasenstein
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    Gotcha, thanks. Maybe I can reach in and push it out via connector/plug port in back...
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,478
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    Try the other woofer. Never know
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    Randy/Maine
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,478
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    I'm not a fan of those jumper plates. I always change them out with good speaker wire
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    Randy/Maine
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,478
    edited April 20
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    Also. It is odd that both are not working. Something is probably unplugged or crossover issue or speaker wire connect
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    Randy/Maine
  • SeleniumFalcon
    SeleniumFalcon Posts: 3,518
    edited April 20
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    If the two woofers are connected in series and one of them has an open voice coil neither woofer will work. The only way to tell is to remove them and try playing them directly.
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,478
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    ^^^^ this
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    Randy/Maine
  • haasenstein
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    If the two woofers are connected in series and one of them has an open voice coil neither woofer will work. The only way to tell is to remove them and try playing them directly.

    Not sure if these are "open voice coil" y0xsbublmy6t.jpg
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
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    Do you have a vm meter
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,623
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    To determine if a voice coil is open you need to
    1. Remove the wires
    2. Set your electrical meter tester to its ohm setting and put each test wire lead on each of those tabs the wire connected to. If you get a number other than zero you do not have a "open voice coil"
    3. If you get zero then YOU DO have a blown speaker as in "open voice coil". A two piece voice coil is no NO Bueno. 😉
  • SeleniumFalcon
    SeleniumFalcon Posts: 3,518
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    Actually if you read "OL" (open lead) you have an open voice coil, if there's a "0" the voice coil is shorted. You should read around 4 or 8 ohms, most likely.
  • haasenstein
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    Pretty sure they're both junked. First pic is baseline without a connection (unit displays "1"). That makes me wonder - what caused it and if the tower itself is otherwise okay and won't damage replacements, where can I find 2.
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  • SeleniumFalcon
    SeleniumFalcon Posts: 3,518
    edited April 21
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    It looks like you just need one, the second one you posted. If the first one doesn't make any scratching noises when you press in on the cone then it is probably okay. As to finding the replacement, I would look on eBay or maybe there's a vintage Cambridge Soundworks group? In the meantime if you wanted to continue using the speaker find a 3.0 ohm 5 watt resistor (Digikey or Mouser) solder it across the two terminals of the open woofer. Then reinstall the woofers and you should be able to use the speaker while you source a new one.