Internal Wiring???

Toolfan66 · February 4

So what have others used around here for their internal wiring?

I know many have used Supra Rondo, myself included, because of VR3's recommendation, and his use of it on many upgrades

It is easy to use for the most part, and the quality is good.

The hardest part is soldering the quick connect where it loops from one driver to the next, but I am sure that will be with any wire..

So what have you use, and why?

VR3 · February 4

I used duelund dca10 on the grandes and really enjoyed working with it and the quality is top shelf. It's also 5 times the cost.

Supra rondo dollar for dollar is possibly the best wire in the market imo but better is it there for substantially more money

pitdogg2 · February 4

My 2.3tls got all new DH Labs 14ga continuous cast silver coated copper.

DarqueKnight · February 4

I have rewired my SDA 1.2TLs twice. First with Cardas 15.5 AWG Litz wire. The Cardas was replaced with AudioQuest GO-4.

The pictures no longer show in the threads below due to Photobucket broken links. You can view the pictures by right clicking on any ".jpg" link and opening the picture in a new tab.

AQ GO-4 wire:

https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/141258/audioquest-go-4-internal-wire-replacement-for-the-sda-srs-1-2tl

Cardas wire:

https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/139282/cardas-internal-wire-replacement-for-the-sda-srs-1-2tl/p1

My initial results with the Cardas were not good because I initially did not use a solder pot to burn off the plastic coating of the individual wires.

VR3 · February 4

Dh labs makes a great wire, but be sure you like silver plated internal wiring before going all in... Just my advice as you may or may not like it

pitdogg2 · February 4

VR3 wrote: »

Dh labs makes a great wire, but be sure you like silver plated internal wiring before going all in... Just my advice as you may or may not like it

Worked excellent in mine. I also put the Cardas silver binding post with the gold cap, Jeff at sonicraft made me a deal I couldn't refuse. When doing four binding posts on each speaker those Cardas get expensive quick.

VR3 · February 4

I have no doubts that it sounds great. I am just saying that different metals have different sounds and everyone's preference may vary. System synergy can also come into play.

Quality binding post are a worthwhile investment that can add up quick

Toolfan66 · February 4

pitdogg2 wrote: »

VR3 wrote: »

Dh labs makes a great wire, but be sure you like silver plated internal wiring before going all in... Just my advice as you may or may not like it

Worked excellent in mine. I also put the Cardas silver binding post with the gold cap, Jeff at sonicraft made me a deal I couldn't refuse. When doing four binding posts on each speaker those Cardas get expensive quick.

Links?

pitdogg2 · February 4

Toolfan66 wrote: »

pitdogg2 wrote: »

VR3 wrote: »

Dh labs makes a great wire, but be sure you like silver plated internal wiring before going all in... Just my advice as you may or may not like it

Worked excellent in mine. I also put the Cardas silver binding post with the gold cap, Jeff at sonicraft made me a deal I couldn't refuse. When doing four binding posts on each speaker those Cardas get expensive quick.

Links?

https://silversonic.com/products/hookup-wire/ofh-14/

All wire
https://silversonic.com/products/hookup-wire/

VR3 · February 4

I would check out the dh labs t14 as well which is the 2 conductor version

Toolfan66 · February 4

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Toolfan66 wrote: »

pitdogg2 wrote: »

VR3 wrote: »

Dh labs makes a great wire, but be sure you like silver plated internal wiring before going all in... Just my advice as you may or may not like it

Worked excellent in mine. I also put the Cardas silver binding post with the gold cap, Jeff at sonicraft made me a deal I couldn't refuse. When doing four binding posts on each speaker those Cardas get expensive quick.

Links?

https://silversonic.com/products/hookup-wire/ofh-14/

All wire
https://silversonic.com/products/hookup-wire/

That added up quick, how many feet of each color did you buy?

pitdogg2 · February 4

VR3 wrote: »

I would check out the dh labs t14 as well which is the 2 conductor version

Agreed, it well be much harder to work with.

Larry I'm not sure, I measured out all the wire in one speaker and doubled then added 10-15' for good measure to be able to have enough so everything was not so tight.
I met the owner at Axpona, He had a sale there but did not have any of what I needed. He asked that I reach out 2 weeks after the show and he would make it worth my time. He gave me a real good discount. It was still hundreds of dollars.

I bought equal amounts of both black and red. I still have a little left over. Not much but I didn't run short and used more than I thought.

audioluvr · February 4

I used this:
https://wireworldcable.com/products/equinox-pro-speaker-cable-per-meter-bulk

Toolfan66 · February 4

audioluvr wrote: »

I used this:
https://wireworldcable.com/products/equinox-pro-speaker-cable-per-meter-bulk

How was it to work with? Definitely different looking.

pitdogg2 · February 4

Toolfan66 wrote: »

audioluvr wrote: »

I used this:
https://wireworldcable.com/products/equinox-pro-speaker-cable-per-meter-bulk

How was it to work with? Definitely different looking.

Hopefully @audioluvr will loan you a stripper. The special stripper needed is pricey. @DSkip is your man for that, he's big on the ohno cast wire world stuff or was.

audioluvr · February 4

You need a special wire stripper. I found one on Amazon for something like $20ish.

https://a.co/d/bgqI4R0

gmcman · February 5

I used Cardas 15.5 AWD Litz and while the process is time consuming to use a solder pot for each connection, my results were very favorable.

It was a night and day difference from the stock wire. I believe what made the upgrade stand out, was the fact it brought together all my previous upstream mods...a "bottleneck" for lack of better terms.

I also opted to solder the wire directly to the speaker terminals as I foresee no plans to remove them unless a magnet shifts...or another rewire comes to light.

The difference was pronounced enough that when my son and I listened to them with only one speaker re-wired, they were unlistenable due to the increased clarity and dynamics of the re-wired speaker, the "balance" of sound was too far off for a seamless listening session. He was able to easliy pick out the re-wired speaker not knowing which one I completed.

Here's the link from my re-wire, I included a video of the difference using a Sennheiser stereo mic, leaving the camera in the same location and same settings. If you listen with a good pair of cans or even stream it, I believe you can easily tell the difference in resolution, wish I could portray the exact difference but hopefully that helps.

I recommend listening to the first "stock wire" track in it's entirety to get the sound more engrained.

https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/182947/cardas-litz-internal-re-wire-for-2-3tl

VR3 · February 5

That's awesome man and that is precisely why I stopped doing partial builds for folks. I may have lost business but I didn't like knowing performance was left on the table.

Toolfan66 · February 11

gmcman wrote: »

I used Cardas 15.5 AWD Litz and while the process is time consuming to use a solder pot for each connection, my results were very favorable.

It was a night and day difference from the stock wire. I believe what made the upgrade stand out, was the fact it brought together all my previous upstream mods...a "bottleneck" for lack of better terms.

I also opted to solder the wire directly to the speaker terminals as I foresee no plans to remove them unless a magnet shifts...or another rewire comes to light.

The difference was pronounced enough that when my son and I listened to them with only one speaker re-wired, they were unlistenable due to the increased clarity and dynamics of the re-wired speaker, the "balance" of sound was too far off for a seamless listening session. He was able to easliy pick out the re-wired speaker not knowing which one I completed.

Here's the link from my re-wire, I included a video of the difference using a Sennheiser stereo mic, leaving the camera in the same location and same settings. If you listen with a good pair of cans or even stream it, I believe you can easily tell the difference in resolution, wish I could portray the exact difference but hopefully that helps.

I recommend listening to the first "stock wire" track in it's entirety to get the sound more engrained.

https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/182947/cardas-litz-internal-re-wire-for-2-3tl

What soldering pot did you use?

Where did you purchase everything (soldering bar/flux/wire) from? Parts Connextion?

pitdogg2 · February 11

https://www.circuitspecialists.com/lead_free_solder_pot_zd-8911

This website is a great place for anything soldering. I've spent many dollars there. Stand behind their products.

VR3 · February 11

Mild curiosity, what are "other solder activities"

Viking64 · February 11

I do my own custom point-to-point wiring.

gmcman · February 11

Toolfan66 wrote: »

What soldering pot did you use?

Where did you purchase everything (soldering bar/flux/wire) from? Parts Connextion?

Solder pot was from Circuit Specialists, this is what I used:

https://www.circuitspecialists.com/150-watt-solder-pot

Worked great but discontinued, there is another model avail now though, Model ZD-8911.

Cardas bar stock, 2lbs: I have enough that I can cut you off a piece for your project if you wish.

https://www.dedicatedaudio.com/search?q=cardas+bar+solder&type=product

The Cardas Lits 15.5 ga wire was from Sonic Craft. I ordered extra but figured 50' for each cabinet, I went with 110' total of all white.

Cardas Flux:
https://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/cardas-rosin-solder-flux-p-1691

Soldering to each tab took some creativity, fabricated a stand and also used heat sink clips.

I believe @DarqueKnight used some nice terminals in his 1.2's and if I did it again I might do that. Once I had a rhythm going it wasn't bad.

For the solder pot, you want to practice on a few pieces first, you don't want to dip and remove the wire too quickly, or leave it too long as the vinyl will start to burn. Count out loud and get your timing down.

HTH.

DarqueKnight · February 11

gmcman wrote: »

Toolfan66 wrote: »

I believe @DarqueKnight used some nice terminals in his 1.2's and if I did it again I might do that. Once I had a rhythm going it wasn't bad.

I used WBT QD25 quick disconnects. Gold plated brass.

Internal Wiring???

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