Guide: How to refinish your speakers
ChrisD06
Posts: 929
Right so it's about time I contribute some experimentation and findings I've made in the form of a guide.
So today's topic will be on how to refinish your veneer, whether it be to mask scratches, or to just simply refresh the look of your speakers. It's extremely easy to do any you probably don't need to buy anything except the wood stain used.
With that said, here is what you will need: Paper towel, Miniwax semi-transparent oil-based wood stain, a towel, a cleaning solution, and a microfiber cloth.
For my process, I used hardwood cleaner as it's made with natural ingredients, yet I was able to scrub very firmly without damaging my speakers. It did the job very well. You could use Windex, I'm aware this is the forum favorite, but I wouldn't recommend scrubbing with heavy amounts of it.
For my stain of choice I used Miniwax Ebony 2718. Put a towel down on your workspace; lie your bookshelves down on their back; stand your towers up straight.
Step-by-step process:
1. Use your cleaner to thoroughly clean the veneer on your speakers. Make sure you get every piece of dirt and grime off. Let it dry and make sure you don't leave any dust on it with a microfiber cloth.
2. Open your stain and lightly soak the tip of a thick ball of paper towel in it.
2a. For a general refresh, blot your stain evenly around on the veneer.
2b. If you're repairing scratches, target the heaviest scratches while maintaining fairly even blotting.
3. Use your soaked paper towel to spread the stain. Press down from one edge, and rub in with the grain. Do this until you complete the entire side. Leave to soak for about a minute.
4. Using a new piece of paper towel, further rub the stain in with the grain. This will get rid of excess stain. Repeat this process until the paper towel is coming out clean or nearly clean.
5. Leave to dry. For me it took 3 days, but it might take longer depending on the amount of stain used, the size of the speaker, the humidity, many things. You could do a week if you want to be extra safe. Usually you can feel the stain being a little bit sticky if it's not dry.
Voila! You're done.
Incase anyone is curious as to my stain choice, it's what I personally found to work best. Considering the Polk veneer for my RT series speakers was black, I found using Miniwax True Black 274 to not be what I wanted. Remember to be conservative with the amount of stain you apply. I chose Miniwax as a brand because they make the stain pens that I used which sparked this idea. Oil-based stains last longer too, you could use a water-based one but I don't know if the process would differ or how the results would be.
I spent a decent chunk of money doing this! I didn't take many photos, I think I have like one or two, it never really crossed my mind during the time and I was very focused on the staining. I might do my M5JR+ and other Polk speakers eventually. If I remember to take photos, then I certainly will.
Otherwise, the results are great. My CS1000p had some nasty scratches and I can't see them now. The veneer look so much more... hydrated? It's awesome.
If any of you try this, let me know how it goes. Cheers.
So today's topic will be on how to refinish your veneer, whether it be to mask scratches, or to just simply refresh the look of your speakers. It's extremely easy to do any you probably don't need to buy anything except the wood stain used.
With that said, here is what you will need: Paper towel, Miniwax semi-transparent oil-based wood stain, a towel, a cleaning solution, and a microfiber cloth.
For my process, I used hardwood cleaner as it's made with natural ingredients, yet I was able to scrub very firmly without damaging my speakers. It did the job very well. You could use Windex, I'm aware this is the forum favorite, but I wouldn't recommend scrubbing with heavy amounts of it.
For my stain of choice I used Miniwax Ebony 2718. Put a towel down on your workspace; lie your bookshelves down on their back; stand your towers up straight.
Step-by-step process:
1. Use your cleaner to thoroughly clean the veneer on your speakers. Make sure you get every piece of dirt and grime off. Let it dry and make sure you don't leave any dust on it with a microfiber cloth.
2. Open your stain and lightly soak the tip of a thick ball of paper towel in it.
2a. For a general refresh, blot your stain evenly around on the veneer.
2b. If you're repairing scratches, target the heaviest scratches while maintaining fairly even blotting.
3. Use your soaked paper towel to spread the stain. Press down from one edge, and rub in with the grain. Do this until you complete the entire side. Leave to soak for about a minute.
4. Using a new piece of paper towel, further rub the stain in with the grain. This will get rid of excess stain. Repeat this process until the paper towel is coming out clean or nearly clean.
5. Leave to dry. For me it took 3 days, but it might take longer depending on the amount of stain used, the size of the speaker, the humidity, many things. You could do a week if you want to be extra safe. Usually you can feel the stain being a little bit sticky if it's not dry.
Voila! You're done.
Incase anyone is curious as to my stain choice, it's what I personally found to work best. Considering the Polk veneer for my RT series speakers was black, I found using Miniwax True Black 274 to not be what I wanted. Remember to be conservative with the amount of stain you apply. I chose Miniwax as a brand because they make the stain pens that I used which sparked this idea. Oil-based stains last longer too, you could use a water-based one but I don't know if the process would differ or how the results would be.
I spent a decent chunk of money doing this! I didn't take many photos, I think I have like one or two, it never really crossed my mind during the time and I was very focused on the staining. I might do my M5JR+ and other Polk speakers eventually. If I remember to take photos, then I certainly will.
Otherwise, the results are great. My CS1000p had some nasty scratches and I can't see them now. The veneer look so much more... hydrated? It's awesome.
If any of you try this, let me know how it goes. Cheers.
Comments
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I used a rattle can of camouflage paint. Works great !!
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So wrong on so many levels I don't know where to start...LOLPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Linked to where this thread belongs..
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/198981/you-re-doing-it-wrong#latestThe Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
So wrong on so many levels I don't know where to start...LOL
It works. Try it if you think it's wrong.
If you want to do it the 'proper way' for the same results, be my guest. My speakers look great. -
Son, I do things like that for a living and I've been doing it for a very long time. Your advice is terrible on every level.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Next week, be sure to catch the thread Chris makes to lecture Larry on how to weld, right here on Club Polk.
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Son, I do things like that for a living and I've been doing it for a very long time. Your advice is terrible on every level.
Right, so if it comes out perfectly and lasts a long time how is it terrible advice. There's approximately zero downsides to it other than it's not the 'right way'? -
Next week, be sure to catch the thread Chris makes to lecture Larry on how to weld, right here on Club Polk.
That is why he is on my ignore list... perhaps we could get him to join Sal for a discussion of EV's...The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
Writing "approximately zero downsides" is as ridiculous as writing "incase" as if it were one word.
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nooshinjohn wrote: »
I think you meant Sal, not Joe.. -
Writing "approximately zero downsides" is as ridiculous as writing "incase" as if it were one word.
I'm just happy to find approximately zero uses of the word "literally" in here.
Brian
One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM -
I could absolutely maybe never or my head would literally explode and that will hurt me badly zero times. -
nooshinjohn wrote: »
I think you meant Sal, not Joe..
Fixed...The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
I used a rattle can of camouflage paint. Works great !!
But... but... how did you find the loudspeakers when you were finished?? -
Dude. literally zero uses. I literally counted.
PS Counting to zero is quite difficult to do. Literally.
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Before and after pics of the treatment and I may reconsider using truck bedliner next time 'round.
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
I should know better than to wade into this sty -- but circumspection has always been a development area for me.
I'll just pick one point. I cannot imagine a worse vehicle to apply stain than a paper towel. The lint alone portends disaster. And they're quite 'scratchy' (sorry, the finer points of vocabulary are eluding me this morning). An awful choice even for a quick and dirty rehab of a low quality finish on a low-value piece of cabinetry.
Jeepers.
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It’s just the latest in a series of troll posts where the trollette makes as nonsensical a statement, or statements, as possible and then sits back to watch the ensuing chit storm, with the trollette occasionally defending their nonsense with additional nonsense in order to stir more chit!
Brian
One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM -
I think you meant Sal, not Joe..[/quote]
Yes sadly Joe passed away a few years ago but his 1.2tls live on here with me and more than likely will for the duration of me listening to music. Hopefully that duration is a very long time.
This thread has me thinking now that I just may want to stain them using a paper towel to apply and wipe the stain off.
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motorstereo wrote: »...This thread has me thinking now that I just may want to stain them using a paper towel to apply and wipe the stain off.
You know...as I reflect on the topic... chain mail might do a real nice job of evening out those fine surface imperfections and gettin' stain down in those microscratches.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/kitchen/cleanup/brushes-and-scrubbers/76081-stainless-steel-chain-mail-scrubber?item=DB309
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When I saw the thread title and the author, my first thought was... Dang the new kid is trolling Jesse... Boss level moves- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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When I saw the thread title and the author, my first thought was... Dang the new kid is trolling Jesse... Boss level moves
Like walking into the prison yard on your first day, picking a fight... -
mhardy6647 wrote: »I should know better than to wade into this sty -- but circumspection has always been a development area for me.
I'll just pick one point. I cannot imagine a worse vehicle to apply stain than a paper towel. The lint alone portends disaster. And they're quite 'scratchy' (sorry, the finer points of vocabulary are eluding me this morning). An awful choice even for a quick and dirty rehab of a low quality finish on a low-value piece of cabinetry.
Jeepers.
I liked that he said to make sure to clean off any lint from the microfiber towel used in the first step - then proceeded to tell us to use paper towel for the next step
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Is this a guide of what not to do when refinishing your speakers, or did the OP think it was April 1st?
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motorstereo wrote: »I think you meant Sal, not Joe..
Yes sadly Joe passed away a few years ago but his 1.2tls live on here with me and more than likely will for the duration of me listening to music. Hopefully that duration is a very long time.
This thread has me thinking now that I just may want to stain them using a paper towel to apply and wipe the stain off. [/quote]
When you need to be able to hit the like button, and the LOL button. I hope that duration is a very long time as well..When I saw the thread title and the author, my first thought was... Dang the new kid is trolling Jesse... Boss level moves
The writing is on the wall, he is definitely not who he says he is..
If the trolls were to win one over Jesse, I picture them in basements, with no walls, just an old throw rug, make shift table with a computer, some amazon special speakers all askew, empty Red Bull cans, and a half eaten sandwich that seems to have dried out from 2 weeks ago. empty Cheetos bags..
They have each other on zoom, dancing around in Power Rangers, Green Lantern, and The Jetsons pajamas. acting like they can high five each other.
While there mom stands at the top of the stairs yelling down at them to keep it down, "your grandmother is trying to watch The Price Is Right"..
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While I am FAR from an expert at wood finishing, I do know a few things -
1. Paper towels are made of wood fibers. Those fibers will absorb the very finish and pigments you are trying to apply to your base material, resulting in unpredictable variances in your finish.
2. Tac cloth, cheese cloth and specialized applicators are available for a reason - they work. That said, I have had good luck with cloth diapers in phases of (re)finishing.
3. There are no shortcuts when it comes to (re)finishing. There is simply no substitute for quality supplies and attention to detail."Conservative Libertarians love the country, progressive leftists love the government." - Andrew Wilkow
“Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn -
Wait...if I think it's wrong, why would...nevermind.Try it if you think it's wrong."This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon -
I disabled signatures.
