Guide: How to refinish your speakers
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ChrisD06
Posts: 929
Right so it's about time I contribute some experimentation and findings I've made in the form of a guide.
So today's topic will be on how to refinish your veneer, whether it be to mask scratches, or to just simply refresh the look of your speakers. It's extremely easy to do any you probably don't need to buy anything except the wood stain used.
With that said, here is what you will need: Paper towel, Miniwax semi-transparent oil-based wood stain, a towel, a cleaning solution, and a microfiber cloth.
For my process, I used hardwood cleaner as it's made with natural ingredients, yet I was able to scrub very firmly without damaging my speakers. It did the job very well. You could use Windex, I'm aware this is the forum favorite, but I wouldn't recommend scrubbing with heavy amounts of it.
For my stain of choice I used Miniwax Ebony 2718. Put a towel down on your workspace; lie your bookshelves down on their back; stand your towers up straight.
Step-by-step process:
1. Use your cleaner to thoroughly clean the veneer on your speakers. Make sure you get every piece of dirt and grime off. Let it dry and make sure you don't leave any dust on it with a microfiber cloth.
2. Open your stain and lightly soak the tip of a thick ball of paper towel in it.
2a. For a general refresh, blot your stain evenly around on the veneer.
2b. If you're repairing scratches, target the heaviest scratches while maintaining fairly even blotting.
3. Use your soaked paper towel to spread the stain. Press down from one edge, and rub in with the grain. Do this until you complete the entire side. Leave to soak for about a minute.
4. Using a new piece of paper towel, further rub the stain in with the grain. This will get rid of excess stain. Repeat this process until the paper towel is coming out clean or nearly clean.
5. Leave to dry. For me it took 3 days, but it might take longer depending on the amount of stain used, the size of the speaker, the humidity, many things. You could do a week if you want to be extra safe. Usually you can feel the stain being a little bit sticky if it's not dry.
Voila! You're done.
Incase anyone is curious as to my stain choice, it's what I personally found to work best. Considering the Polk veneer for my RT series speakers was black, I found using Miniwax True Black 274 to not be what I wanted. Remember to be conservative with the amount of stain you apply. I chose Miniwax as a brand because they make the stain pens that I used which sparked this idea. Oil-based stains last longer too, you could use a water-based one but I don't know if the process would differ or how the results would be.
I spent a decent chunk of money doing this! I didn't take many photos, I think I have like one or two, it never really crossed my mind during the time and I was very focused on the staining. I might do my M5JR+ and other Polk speakers eventually. If I remember to take photos, then I certainly will.
Otherwise, the results are great. My CS1000p had some nasty scratches and I can't see them now. The veneer look so much more... hydrated? It's awesome.
If any of you try this, let me know how it goes. Cheers.
So today's topic will be on how to refinish your veneer, whether it be to mask scratches, or to just simply refresh the look of your speakers. It's extremely easy to do any you probably don't need to buy anything except the wood stain used.
With that said, here is what you will need: Paper towel, Miniwax semi-transparent oil-based wood stain, a towel, a cleaning solution, and a microfiber cloth.
For my process, I used hardwood cleaner as it's made with natural ingredients, yet I was able to scrub very firmly without damaging my speakers. It did the job very well. You could use Windex, I'm aware this is the forum favorite, but I wouldn't recommend scrubbing with heavy amounts of it.
For my stain of choice I used Miniwax Ebony 2718. Put a towel down on your workspace; lie your bookshelves down on their back; stand your towers up straight.
Step-by-step process:
1. Use your cleaner to thoroughly clean the veneer on your speakers. Make sure you get every piece of dirt and grime off. Let it dry and make sure you don't leave any dust on it with a microfiber cloth.
2. Open your stain and lightly soak the tip of a thick ball of paper towel in it.
2a. For a general refresh, blot your stain evenly around on the veneer.
2b. If you're repairing scratches, target the heaviest scratches while maintaining fairly even blotting.
3. Use your soaked paper towel to spread the stain. Press down from one edge, and rub in with the grain. Do this until you complete the entire side. Leave to soak for about a minute.
4. Using a new piece of paper towel, further rub the stain in with the grain. This will get rid of excess stain. Repeat this process until the paper towel is coming out clean or nearly clean.
5. Leave to dry. For me it took 3 days, but it might take longer depending on the amount of stain used, the size of the speaker, the humidity, many things. You could do a week if you want to be extra safe. Usually you can feel the stain being a little bit sticky if it's not dry.
Voila! You're done.
Incase anyone is curious as to my stain choice, it's what I personally found to work best. Considering the Polk veneer for my RT series speakers was black, I found using Miniwax True Black 274 to not be what I wanted. Remember to be conservative with the amount of stain you apply. I chose Miniwax as a brand because they make the stain pens that I used which sparked this idea. Oil-based stains last longer too, you could use a water-based one but I don't know if the process would differ or how the results would be.
I spent a decent chunk of money doing this! I didn't take many photos, I think I have like one or two, it never really crossed my mind during the time and I was very focused on the staining. I might do my M5JR+ and other Polk speakers eventually. If I remember to take photos, then I certainly will.
Otherwise, the results are great. My CS1000p had some nasty scratches and I can't see them now. The veneer look so much more... hydrated? It's awesome.
If any of you try this, let me know how it goes. Cheers.
My gear:
- TCL 75QM7K TV
- Onyko TX-NR656 AVR
- RT3000p Fronts
- CS1000p Center
- RT35 Side Surrounds
- RT35 Rear Surrounds
Comments
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I used a rattle can of camouflage paint. Works great !!
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So wrong on so many levels I don't know where to start...LOL
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So wrong on so many levels I don't know where to start...LOL
It works. Try it if you think it's wrong.
If you want to do it the 'proper way' for the same results, be my guest. My speakers look great.My gear:- TCL 75QM7K TV
- Onyko TX-NR656 AVR
- RT3000p Fronts
- CS1000p Center
- RT35 Side Surrounds
- RT35 Rear Surrounds
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Son, I do things like that for a living and I've been doing it for a very long time. Your advice is terrible on every level.
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Next week, be sure to catch the thread Chris makes to lecture Larry on how to weld, right here on Club Polk.
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Son, I do things like that for a living and I've been doing it for a very long time. Your advice is terrible on every level.
Right, so if it comes out perfectly and lasts a long time how is it terrible advice. There's approximately zero downsides to it other than it's not the 'right way'?My gear:- TCL 75QM7K TV
- Onyko TX-NR656 AVR
- RT3000p Fronts
- CS1000p Center
- RT35 Side Surrounds
- RT35 Rear Surrounds
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Writing "approximately zero downsides" is as ridiculous as writing "incase" as if it were one word.
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Writing "approximately zero downsides" is as ridiculous as writing "incase" as if it were one word.
I'm just happy to find approximately zero uses of the word "literally" in here.
Brian -
I could absolutely maybe never or my head would literally explode and that will hurt me badly zero times. -
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I used a rattle can of camouflage paint. Works great !!
But... but... how did you find the loudspeakers when you were finished?? -
Dude. literally zero uses. I literally counted.
PS Counting to zero is quite difficult to do. Literally.
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Before and after pics of the treatment and I may reconsider using truck bedliner next time 'round.
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
I should know better than to wade into this sty -- but circumspection has always been a development area for me.

I'll just pick one point. I cannot imagine a worse vehicle to apply stain than a paper towel. The lint alone portends disaster. And they're quite 'scratchy' (sorry, the finer points of vocabulary are eluding me this morning). An awful choice even for a quick and dirty rehab of a low quality finish on a low-value piece of cabinetry.
Jeepers.
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It’s just the latest in a series of troll posts where the trollette makes as nonsensical a statement, or statements, as possible and then sits back to watch the ensuing chit storm, with the trollette occasionally defending their nonsense with additional nonsense in order to stir more chit!
Brian -
I think you meant Sal, not Joe..[/quote]
Yes sadly Joe passed away a few years ago but his 1.2tls live on here with me and more than likely will for the duration of me listening to music. Hopefully that duration is a very long time.
This thread has me thinking now that I just may want to stain them using a paper towel to apply and wipe the stain off.
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motorstereo wrote: »...This thread has me thinking now that I just may want to stain them using a paper towel to apply and wipe the stain off.

You know...as I reflect on the topic... chain mail might do a real nice job of evening out those fine surface imperfections and gettin' stain down in those microscratches.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/kitchen/cleanup/brushes-and-scrubbers/76081-stainless-steel-chain-mail-scrubber?item=DB309
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When I saw the thread title and the author, my first thought was... Dang the new kid is trolling Jesse... Boss level moves- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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mhardy6647 wrote: »I should know better than to wade into this sty -- but circumspection has always been a development area for me.

I'll just pick one point. I cannot imagine a worse vehicle to apply stain than a paper towel. The lint alone portends disaster. And they're quite 'scratchy' (sorry, the finer points of vocabulary are eluding me this morning). An awful choice even for a quick and dirty rehab of a low quality finish on a low-value piece of cabinetry.
Jeepers.
I liked that he said to make sure to clean off any lint from the microfiber towel used in the first step - then proceeded to tell us to use paper towel for the next step
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Is this a guide of what not to do when refinishing your speakers, or did the OP think it was April 1st?
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While I am FAR from an expert at wood finishing, I do know a few things -
1. Paper towels are made of wood fibers. Those fibers will absorb the very finish and pigments you are trying to apply to your base material, resulting in unpredictable variances in your finish.
2. Tac cloth, cheese cloth and specialized applicators are available for a reason - they work. That said, I have had good luck with cloth diapers in phases of (re)finishing.
3. There are no shortcuts when it comes to (re)finishing. There is simply no substitute for quality supplies and attention to detail.“Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn -
Wait...if I think it's wrong, why would...nevermind.Try it if you think it's wrong."This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon -
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His speakers look great, but he doesn't want to share pictures of them.
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What the ****
I thought we learned as a kid how to wacks on wacks off
Use a sock2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
There was a dude in our shop when I was in the AF who used someone else's sock while they were deployed. He said it was an accident and meant to use his own.
I magine getting dressed in the AM and you can't get your foot into your sock. Or worse, you can, and then realize what's happened, and that it wasn't you.I disabled signatures. -
Give the kid a break. He's trying to help. Everybody's method is different and evolves as one gets more experienced.
This online culture we live in is tough to stomach some times. The piling on...
We didn't all just wake up one day and know everything, although it seems a few members here might have.Polk: / SDA-CRS / SDA-1C / M-10B / M-7B / M-5 / M-5jr / RTA-11T / LSIM703 / LSIM704 / LSIM706 / RTI8 / CSI3 / CSI5 / RTI4 / RTI-A5 / CSI-A6 / RC80i / RC85i / RC6s / PSW300 / Atrium6 / Atrium4 / About a dozen pair of Atrium45 lol.











