RTI Tweeters
toolbelt
Posts: 124
As a fun project, I am replacing blown tweeters (RD0690-1) in my spare RTI4's (in addition to replacing a blown crossover resistor and blown driver). Based on specs and faceplate fit, I've narrowed it down to 3 choices;
-Peerless OC25SC65-04
-Eminence SD28
-Dayton ND25FN-4
All will require minimum faceplate alteration (slight enlargement of dome opening). All have similar sensitivity, Ohmage and power handling. The Eminence is about 30% more expensive. The Dayton looks to have better heat control but has a listed low end of only 2500Hz, compared to 1300Hz and 1500Hz for the other two (although Dayton's graph seems to show them handling 1400Hz). They all top out at 20Khz. The RTI4's crossover at 1900Hz.
Does anybody have experience with either of those 3 tweeters, or perhaps additional options not listed? Value wise, I can't justify repairing these speakers, so I'm doing it just for kicks. All in, it will cost around $100 Cdn. Any thoughts?
-Peerless OC25SC65-04
-Eminence SD28
-Dayton ND25FN-4
All will require minimum faceplate alteration (slight enlargement of dome opening). All have similar sensitivity, Ohmage and power handling. The Eminence is about 30% more expensive. The Dayton looks to have better heat control but has a listed low end of only 2500Hz, compared to 1300Hz and 1500Hz for the other two (although Dayton's graph seems to show them handling 1400Hz). They all top out at 20Khz. The RTI4's crossover at 1900Hz.
Does anybody have experience with either of those 3 tweeters, or perhaps additional options not listed? Value wise, I can't justify repairing these speakers, so I'm doing it just for kicks. All in, it will cost around $100 Cdn. Any thoughts?
Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever
Answers
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You can buy RD0690-1 tweeters on eBay.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Yes, but when factoring in shipping and exchange rates, many of them would run me $100 ea.....used.Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
At those prices, you could try the Daytons and the Peerless.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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At those prices, you could try the Daytons and the Peerless.
The cost I quoted includes a used woofer and new resistor, as well as the tweeters, which will run around $30 ea including shipping.Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
Yes, but when factoring in shipping and exchange rates, many of them would run me $100 ea.....used.
So what, you would have the correct tweeter and not some...well, it might be close, which might actually not be.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
All vintage Polk parts are now a crapshoot at any forum/swap-meet/cheapbay.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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All vintage Polk parts are now a crapshoot at any forum/swap-meet/cheapbay.
True. That's why I'm going the aftermarket route, which may or may not be an upgrade, although I read Polk was using Vifa tweeters at some point, which I believe has some association with Peerless. The RTI's were rated up to 26,000Hz, and neither of these replacements is rated at more than 20Khz, but I don't see that as a factor. Polk keeps their driver specs pretty close to their vests, so the only knowns are the Ohm rating and physical size.Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
Buying used audio anything could be considered a crap shoot, but buying non-OEM is ALWAYS a crap shoot.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Buying used audio anything could be considered a crap shoot, but buying non-OEM is ALWAYS a crap shoot.
It's a crap shoot only if my goal is to maintain the authenticity of my RTI's. It's a crap shoot buying Chinese aftermarket components. Dayton and Eminence have a good reputation, and Peerless is not an unknown source either. While replacing with aftermarket components will definitely change the RTI's performance, it might be for the better. As I stated at the beginning, this is just a hobby rebuild of speakers I don't even need. As an added bonus, I'm learning a lot about speaker components as I go.
Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
Why not use the links to that Tuan Tran guy I sent you a month or so back? He has the correct tweeters for like, idk, $30/ea?
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You can lead a horse to water, but...Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Why not use the links to that Tuan Tran guy I sent you a month or so back? He has the correct tweeters for like, idk, $30/ea?
Actually I did get the RTI4 woofer he had, but when I ordered it, he only had one of the two tweeters left. So rather than chasing down another one, I decided that, for the same price, I would just order new. But as you had previously mentioned, his packaging is amazingly secure. I also told him about your referral and sent him a link of our forum discussion.Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
You can lead a horse to water, but...
Unfortunately, he had already sold one of my puddles. lolPolk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
Actually I did get the RTI4 woofer he had, but when I ordered it, he only had one of the two tweeters left. So rather than chasing down another one, I decided that, for the same price, I would just order new.
I'd personally order the tweeter he has left and then source a second one on Reverb or Ebay.But as you had previously mentioned, his packaging is amazingly secure.
Yeah it's pretty astonishing. You could probably throw his packages off of a building and the drivers wouldn't suffer damage LOL.I also told him about your referral and sent him a link of our forum discussion.
He must have been pretty surprised to see that a guy he sold a woofer to recommended him to another guy half way across the country on the internet 😂 -
Actually I did get the RTI4 woofer he had, but when I ordered it, he only had one of the two tweeters left. So rather than chasing down another one, I decided that, for the same price, I would just order new.
I'd personally order the tweeter he has left and then source a second one on Reverb or Ebay.But as you had previously mentioned, his packaging is amazingly secure.
Yeah it's pretty astonishing. You could probably throw his packages off of a building and the drivers wouldn't suffer damage LOL.I also told him about your referral and sent him a link of our forum discussion.
He must have been pretty surprised to see that a guy he sold a woofer to recommended him to another guy half way across the country on the internet 😂
His exact words were;
"Really I did not know that someone recommended me in the Polk audio forum. I thought that I am the man in the movie Cast Away " lolPolk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
As a fun project, I am replacing blown tweeters (RD0690-1) in my spare RTI4's (in addition to replacing a blown crossover resistor and blown driver). Based on specs and faceplate fit, I've narrowed it down to 3 choices;
-Peerless OC25SC65-04
-Eminence SD28
-Dayton ND25FN-4
All will require minimum faceplate alteration (slight enlargement of dome opening). All have similar sensitivity, Ohmage and power handling. The Eminence is about 30% more expensive. The Dayton looks to have better heat control but has a listed low end of only 2500Hz, compared to 1300Hz and 1500Hz for the other two (although Dayton's graph seems to show them handling 1400Hz). They all top out at 20Khz. The RTI4's crossover at 1900Hz.
Does anybody have experience with either of those 3 tweeters, or perhaps additional options not listed? Value wise, I can't justify repairing these speakers, so I'm doing it just for kicks. All in, it will cost around $100 Cdn. Any thoughts?
Well I went with the Dayton's (ND25FN-4) and although I thought I would need to slightly modify the faceplate opening for dome clearance, the faceplates actually have a stepped opening which allows for proper clearance of the dome's outer rolled ring. The outer diameter of the Dayton is exactly the same as the Polk original (41mm), and they insert snuggly without having to be forced in. The Dayton, like the original, has a multi-point star heat sink on the magnet which is exactly the same (diameter, number of points, thickness) as the Polk. The thickness of the locking nubs are the exact same, allowing for push and turn mounting with the faceplate's clasps. It's basically an exact clone of the Polk, although Dayton makes no mention of Polk applications in their spec sheets. The rated wattage and frequency range should pair nicely with the Polk crossover, and the 90 db sensitivity should also match well with the Polk woofer. I'm still in the process of repairing the crossover (needs 2.5 ohm 5 watt radial resistor, or equivalent), and then I'll report back with a sound test. It's fairly easy to remove the Polk tweeter from it's faceplate by cutting the thin (RTV like) glue, and twisting it to release the nubs from the clasps.Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
As a fun project, I am replacing blown tweeters (RD0690-1) in my spare RTI4's (in addition to replacing a blown crossover resistor and blown driver). Based on specs and faceplate fit, I've narrowed it down to 3 choices;
-Peerless OC25SC65-04
-Eminence SD28
-Dayton ND25FN-4
All will require minimum faceplate alteration (slight enlargement of dome opening). All have similar sensitivity, Ohmage and power handling. The Eminence is about 30% more expensive. The Dayton looks to have better heat control but has a listed low end of only 2500Hz, compared to 1300Hz and 1500Hz for the other two (although Dayton's graph seems to show them handling 1400Hz). They all top out at 20Khz. The RTI4's crossover at 1900Hz.
Does anybody have experience with either of those 3 tweeters, or perhaps additional options not listed? Value wise, I can't justify repairing these speakers, so I'm doing it just for kicks. All in, it will cost around $100 Cdn. Any thoughts?
Well I went with the Dayton's (ND25FN-4) and although I thought I would need to slightly modify the faceplate opening for dome clearance, the faceplates actually have a stepped opening which allows for proper clearance of the dome's outer rolled ring. The outer diameter of the Dayton is exactly the same as the Polk original (41mm), and they insert snuggly without having to be forced in. The Dayton, like the original, has a multi-point star heat sink on the magnet which is exactly the same (diameter, number of points, thickness) as the Polk. The thickness of the locking nubs are the exact same, allowing for push and turn mounting with the faceplate's clasps. It's basically an exact clone of the Polk, although Dayton makes no mention of Polk applications in their spec sheets. The rated wattage and frequency range should pair nicely with the Polk crossover, and the 90 db sensitivity should also match well with the Polk woofer. I'm still in the process of repairing the crossover (needs 2.5 ohm 5 watt radial resistor, or equivalent), and then I'll report back with a sound test. It's fairly easy to remove the Polk tweeter from it's faceplate by cutting the thin (RTV like) glue, and twisting it to release the nubs from the clasps.
Correction: The faceplate opening does require very modest enlarging of just less than 1/8" in total.Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
As a fun project, I am replacing blown tweeters (RD0690-1) in my spare RTI4's (in addition to replacing a blown crossover resistor and blown driver). Based on specs and faceplate fit, I've narrowed it down to 3 choices;
-Peerless OC25SC65-04
-Eminence SD28
-Dayton ND25FN-4
All will require minimum faceplate alteration (slight enlargement of dome opening). All have similar sensitivity, Ohmage and power handling. The Eminence is about 30% more expensive. The Dayton looks to have better heat control but has a listed low end of only 2500Hz, compared to 1300Hz and 1500Hz for the other two (although Dayton's graph seems to show them handling 1400Hz). They all top out at 20Khz. The RTI4's crossover at 1900Hz.
Does anybody have experience with either of those 3 tweeters, or perhaps additional options not listed? Value wise, I can't justify repairing these speakers, so I'm doing it just for kicks. All in, it will cost around $100 Cdn. Any thoughts?
Well I went with the Dayton's (ND25FN-4) and although I thought I would need to slightly modify the faceplate opening for dome clearance, the faceplates actually have a stepped opening which allows for proper clearance of the dome's outer rolled ring. The outer diameter of the Dayton is exactly the same as the Polk original (41mm), and they insert snuggly without having to be forced in. The Dayton, like the original, has a multi-point star heat sink on the magnet which is exactly the same (diameter, number of points, thickness) as the Polk. The thickness of the locking nubs are the exact same, allowing for push and turn mounting with the faceplate's clasps. It's basically an exact clone of the Polk, although Dayton makes no mention of Polk applications in their spec sheets. The rated wattage and frequency range should pair nicely with the Polk crossover, and the 90 db sensitivity should also match well with the Polk woofer. I'm still in the process of repairing the crossover (needs 2.5 ohm 5 watt radial resistor, or equivalent), and then I'll report back with a sound test. It's fairly easy to remove the Polk tweeter from it's faceplate by cutting the thin (RTV like) glue, and twisting it to release the nubs from the clasps.
PLEASE post some pics. I plan to replace all my RTi A* series tweeters* w/the same driver. Appreciate tips to avoid “re-inventing the wheel.”
*RTi & RTi A series speakers use the same tweeterSamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
As a fun project, I am replacing blown tweeters (RD0690-1) in my spare RTI4's (in addition to replacing a blown crossover resistor and blown driver). Based on specs and faceplate fit, I've narrowed it down to 3 choices;
-Peerless OC25SC65-04
-Eminence SD28
-Dayton ND25FN-4
All will require minimum faceplate alteration (slight enlargement of dome opening). All have similar sensitivity, Ohmage and power handling. The Eminence is about 30% more expensive. The Dayton looks to have better heat control but has a listed low end of only 2500Hz, compared to 1300Hz and 1500Hz for the other two (although Dayton's graph seems to show them handling 1400Hz). They all top out at 20Khz. The RTI4's crossover at 1900Hz.
Does anybody have experience with either of those 3 tweeters, or perhaps additional options not listed? Value wise, I can't justify repairing these speakers, so I'm doing it just for kicks. All in, it will cost around $100 Cdn. Any thoughts?
Well I went with the Dayton's (ND25FN-4) and although I thought I would need to slightly modify the faceplate opening for dome clearance, the faceplates actually have a stepped opening which allows for proper clearance of the dome's outer rolled ring. The outer diameter of the Dayton is exactly the same as the Polk original (41mm), and they insert snuggly without having to be forced in. The Dayton, like the original, has a multi-point star heat sink on the magnet which is exactly the same (diameter, number of points, thickness) as the Polk. The thickness of the locking nubs are the exact same, allowing for push and turn mounting with the faceplate's clasps. It's basically an exact clone of the Polk, although Dayton makes no mention of Polk applications in their spec sheets. The rated wattage and frequency range should pair nicely with the Polk crossover, and the 90 db sensitivity should also match well with the Polk woofer. I'm still in the process of repairing the crossover (needs 2.5 ohm 5 watt radial resistor, or equivalent), and then I'll report back with a sound test. It's fairly easy to remove the Polk tweeter from it's faceplate by cutting the thin (RTV like) glue, and twisting it to release the nubs from the clasps.
PLEASE post some pics. I plan to replace all my RTi A* series tweeters* w/the same driver. Appreciate tips to avoid “re-inventing the wheel.”
*RTi & RTi A series speakers use the same tweeter
Not sure if the RTI and RTIA's have identical faceplates and tweeter cup size but I will document and take some pics. I will say it is almost impossible to remove the old tweeters without damaging them, but if they're toast already, the process is simply a matter of tracing around the outside edge of the old tweeter with an xacto knife, being careful to stop at each of the 4 plastic clasps holding the 4 tweeter nubs. If your old tweeter has a star-shaped cooling heat sink on its back, you can then use it to rotate the tweeter about 1/8 of a turn to disengage the nubs from under the clasps. I used channel lock pliers to twist mine. The tweeters aren't really "glued in". The sealant is really just to prevent the tweeter from rotating. The plastic clasps are what holds the tweeter in place. The sealant is much like a thin layer of "RTV" like material, and cuts fairly easily. I intend to use hot glue when reinstalling the Daytons. It's not like a tweeter jumps around much while running.Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
As a fun project, I am replacing blown tweeters (RD0690-1) in my spare RTI4's (in addition to replacing a blown crossover resistor and blown driver). Based on specs and faceplate fit, I've narrowed it down to 3 choices;
-Peerless OC25SC65-04
-Eminence SD28
-Dayton ND25FN-4
All will require minimum faceplate alteration (slight enlargement of dome opening). All have similar sensitivity, Ohmage and power handling. The Eminence is about 30% more expensive. The Dayton looks to have better heat control but has a listed low end of only 2500Hz, compared to 1300Hz and 1500Hz for the other two (although Dayton's graph seems to show them handling 1400Hz). They all top out at 20Khz. The RTI4's crossover at 1900Hz.
Does anybody have experience with either of those 3 tweeters, or perhaps additional options not listed? Value wise, I can't justify repairing these speakers, so I'm doing it just for kicks. All in, it will cost around $100 Cdn. Any thoughts?
Well I went with the Dayton's (ND25FN-4) and although I thought I would need to slightly modify the faceplate opening for dome clearance, the faceplates actually have a stepped opening which allows for proper clearance of the dome's outer rolled ring. The outer diameter of the Dayton is exactly the same as the Polk original (41mm), and they insert snuggly without having to be forced in. The Dayton, like the original, has a multi-point star heat sink on the magnet which is exactly the same (diameter, number of points, thickness) as the Polk. The thickness of the locking nubs are the exact same, allowing for push and turn mounting with the faceplate's clasps. It's basically an exact clone of the Polk, although Dayton makes no mention of Polk applications in their spec sheets. The rated wattage and frequency range should pair nicely with the Polk crossover, and the 90 db sensitivity should also match well with the Polk woofer. I'm still in the process of repairing the crossover (needs 2.5 ohm 5 watt radial resistor, or equivalent), and then I'll report back with a sound test. It's fairly easy to remove the Polk tweeter from it's faceplate by cutting the thin (RTV like) glue, and twisting it to release the nubs from the clasps.
PLEASE post some pics. I plan to replace all my RTi A* series tweeters* w/the same driver. Appreciate tips to avoid “re-inventing the wheel.”
*RTi & RTi A series speakers use the same tweeter
ok so here was the basic procedure. I cut the old sealant around the perimeter of the back of the old tweeter, and twisted it out from the perimeter clasps. Because the Dayton had a thicker flange than the Polk, you need to cut off the plastic retaining clasps as well. The Polk faceplate mounting hole has a slight bevel around its opening. As the Daytons require a 34MM dome opening, and the Polk faceplate has a 31MM opening, you need to enlarge the faceplate hole by about 3MM, or about the size of the bevel on the original faceplate opening. I used the edge of a utility knife and shaved it. The tweeter cup size of the Dayton is 41MM so its a perfect fit O.D. wise. For added measure, I re-bevelled the faceplate dome opening to ensure that the rolled surround on the tweeter had extra clearance. I then installed the tweeter on the faceplate, and used hot glue to make it air tight. The Dayton tweeter paired well with the OE woofer, and to my untrained ears, reproduces midranges slightly better.
Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
Another Dayton-Polk. Looks great too.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Another Dayton-Polk. Looks great too.
Actually, at first I thought the black tweeter would look funny as a replacement, But it actually blends well and is balanced by the look of the front port. I haven't really cranked it, but so far, I'm pleased. It may be a db or two more sensitive than the original (or it could be the Mills resistor upgrade) but it has a more crisp sound, while still being warm.Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
This is probably one of the best aftermarket mods I've seen purely because of how perfectly it fits with so little modification to the enclosure.
Looks awesome. -
The trickiest part was finding a reputable tweeter that would fit. I was originally going to go with the Eminence SD 28 but Solen was out of stock, and recommended the Dayton instead (which was already on my list of options). The Dayton has the same heat sink as Polk on its back, although I believe they can be transferred over to the Eminence as it appears they have a threaded hole on their rears for that very purpose. It was a fun little project though in the grand scheme, not very cost-effective. They do sound as good or better than new.Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
Toolbelt: what are the “plastic retaining clasps” I “need to cut off?”
I’ve removed the Polk tweeter and have done some trimming & sanding to fit the Dayton into the bezel. To me your pics eliminate any doubt we can “exchange” tweeters” between RTi & “A” series w/little if any trouble. Also I assume you used a low-temp hot glue to prevent damage to the new tweeter?
Consider foaming the magnet shield* and both the inside** and outside of mid’s basket. Pic & link** to follow.
*undamped they ring like bells.
**dirt cheap mod I admit requires some patience but well worth the time
Thanks. TonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
https://us.v-cdn.net/cdn-cgi/image/fit=scale-down,width=1200/https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/editor/6z/i11syvrozytc.jpg
The following “foam” mod will soften if not eliminate the mids’ upper midrange “bark.” So much so, you may hafta pad the tweeter a bit more
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/195562/must-try-mod-foam-inside-the-stamped-steel-baskets-yes#latestSamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
I think it improved the speaker’s appearance. Gonna paint my bezels black to match the black oak finish.Another Dayton-Polk. Looks great too.
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Toolbelt: what are the “plastic retaining clasps” I “need to cut off?”
I’ve removed the Polk tweeter and have done some trimming & sanding to fit the Dayton into the bezel. To me your pics eliminate any doubt we can “exchange” tweeters” between RTi & “A” series w/little if any trouble. Also I assume you used a low-temp hot glue to prevent damage to the new tweeter?
Consider foaming the magnet shield* and both the inside** and outside of mid’s basket. Pic & link** to follow.
*undamped they ring like bells.
**dirt cheap mod I admit requires some patience but well worth the time
Thanks. Tony
What do the backsides of the A tweeter bezels look like? Same as the I's? Also. wouldn't that insulation affect heat buildup?Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
Another Dayton-Polk. Looks great too.
Actually, at first I thought the black tweeter would look funny as a replacement, But it actually blends well and is balanced by the look of the front port. I haven't really cranked it, but so far, I'm pleased. It may be a db or two more sensitive than the original (or it could be the Mills resistor upgrade) but it has a more crisp sound, while still being warm.
And your MW's look just like my TSI's I had to mod, because the dust caps started coming off.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
YesWhat do the backsides of the A tweeter bezels look like? Same as the I's?
I doubt it. See the vent hole in the shield?Also. wouldn't that insulation affect heat buildup?
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
