Building custom component stands/platforms, need some assist with feet/cones

Joey_V
Joey_V Posts: 8,570
edited November 2021 in 2 Channel Audio
So I'm trying to finally get some components off the floor and I would like to match a new pair of Walnut speakers I am getting for the main room. Mainly I was thinking for building an isolation stand to get the Boulder (24"x34" for example) and perhaps the 2 JL subs off the floor. Also was thinking of getting the JL CR1 which sit next to the subs also off the floor.

I have sources a woodsmith/carpenter to do the platforms. We will do 3" baltic birch ply with a a walnut veneer on top for the subs and components, we will do 4" baltic birch ply with a walnut veneer for the amplifier. In addition I would like to build 2 more stands for future amplifiers (either Parasound JC1 or Mcintosh 601/611 monoblocks, @22x26" each). In addition to even that, I'm also thinking of building specialized greyed out versions, 2" for my rack to house the dac, pre, etc (7 of them @ 18"x20").

I've included some pics of the rough appearance (don't worry, they will be single color birch ply along the lateral borders, there will not be any dark ply between sheets (if you understand what I mean).

Gonna have them clear coat it as well.

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But yes, my question is with regards to the feet. I'm not really in the mood to spend >$50 per foot from mapleshade (for deepcarpet brass spikes) x4 (per component stand) x 12 component platforms would = a ton of money. I would need the feet to be some formidable construction cone, with an M8 or variant machined screw up top to fit into the sunken screw attachment at the bottom of the platform. I have searched ebay, amazon, google for any decent brass footers or steel... but have come up without a good choice.

Ideally, the feet would be like these used (you can see it through and through in some):
(Another person who makes birch component stands and even puts a top carbonfiber layer - only problem is the cost is significantly more)....

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0d9y3fc7j1tg.jpeg
up5anmrav0hq.jpeg
09m86wjlo44q.jpeg
b41u8mqf4u9h.jpeg
zxh8iufw1r6b.jpeg
kc17rb2jdncv.jpeg


I know some here are metal specialists - is there any way to machine special cones for these component stands that arent mass market like those on Parts Express?
Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • TEAforONE
    TEAforONE Posts: 1,026
    https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649742621-isolation-cones-speaker-feet-component-feet-versatile-effective-read-more/

    Absolutely no affiliation. This guy has been selling these for awhile. They look very well made.
    See my profile for list of gear.
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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    TEAforONE wrote: »
    https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649742621-isolation-cones-speaker-feet-component-feet-versatile-effective-read-more/

    Absolutely no affiliation. This guy has been selling these for awhile. They look very well made.

    I saw that and contacted him
    He’s very slow to respond but he does
    I see some scratches in those pics and was wondering why they’re only $6 a piece, like would they be able to hold up a significant component
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,502
    I think what you have in mind is going to be beautiful and stable. It always makes me grit my teeth a little when people refer to spikes as isolation devices though. They couple and add stability. Those lightweight spikes the guy is selling are probably aluminum and definitely not what you want to use for a spike in my opinion. Hard steel would be best. I made mine out of Grade 8 bolts ground to a point.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    I think what you have in mind is going to be beautiful and stable. It always makes me grit my teeth a little when people refer to spikes as isolation devices though. They couple and add stability. Those lightweight spikes the guy is selling are probably aluminum and definitely not what you want to use for a spike in my opinion. Hard steel would be best. I made mine out of Grade 8 bolts ground to a point.

    Can you show me pics?
    I’ll pay you for the spikes

    Exactly what I was thinking though. To hold up the amp and the 4” birch... you’re looking at a lot of weight
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    Ideally I want it to bolt above and sandwich the platform.

    But because of the # of stands, I really don’t want to buy a bunch of SRA units because that’s gonna cost the same as a car
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,502
    Joey_V wrote: »
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    I think what you have in mind is going to be beautiful and stable. It always makes me grit my teeth a little when people refer to spikes as isolation devices though. They couple and add stability. Those lightweight spikes the guy is selling are probably aluminum and definitely not what you want to use for a spike in my opinion. Hard steel would be best. I made mine out of Grade 8 bolts ground to a point.

    Can you show me pics?
    I’ll pay you for the spikes

    Exactly what I was thinking though. To hold up the amp and the 4” birch... you’re looking at a lot of weight

    The ones I made have absolutely no bling factor at all.....zero....zilch....nada. I just cut the head off of a 1/4-28 Grade 8 bolt, chucked it up into a high speed drill and held it to my bench grinder. They come out pretty well centered but not perfect. Mine are bearing on a concrete block as part of my DIY vibration isolation subwoofer platforms.

    You could get a machinist to drill and tap your bling ones of choice and the Grade 8 sharpened tips could be inserted in the ends. What they bear upon should preferably also be a very hard steel.

    Or you could settle for plain old stainless steel. Not as good in my opinion but much harder than brass or aluminum, and polishes up nicely for that bling factor.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,654
    You want brass or stainless steel. A decent machine shop can make whatever you want. A good part of the cost is the CAD drawing time.

    Look at the Adona multi-element spikes. Look at their racks and stands too, they are very nice.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    This guy is asking $600 for 4 spikes. This is my ideal spike... but come on man...

    kntb4phgjjwk.jpeg
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    Joey_V wrote: »
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    I think what you have in mind is going to be beautiful and stable. It always makes me grit my teeth a little when people refer to spikes as isolation devices though. They couple and add stability. Those lightweight spikes the guy is selling are probably aluminum and definitely not what you want to use for a spike in my opinion. Hard steel would be best. I made mine out of Grade 8 bolts ground to a point.

    Can you show me pics?
    I’ll pay you for the spikes

    Exactly what I was thinking though. To hold up the amp and the 4” birch... you’re looking at a lot of weight

    The ones I made have absolutely no bling factor at all.....zero....zilch....nada. I just cut the head off of a 1/4-28 Grade 8 bolt, chucked it up into a high speed drill and held it to my bench grinder. They come out pretty well centered but not perfect. Mine are bearing on a concrete block as part of my DIY vibration isolation subwoofer platforms.

    You could get a machinist to drill and tap your bling ones of choice and the Grade 8 sharpened tips could be inserted in the ends. What they bear upon should preferably also be a very hard steel.

    Or you could settle for plain old stainless steel. Not as good in my opinion but much harder than brass or aluminum, and polishes up nicely for that bling factor.
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    F1nut wrote: »
    You want brass or stainless steel. A decent machine shop can make whatever you want. A good part of the cost is the CAD drawing time.

    Look at the Adona multi-element spikes. Look at their racks and stands too, they are very nice.

    I’ll check out adona
    Thx Jesse
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    @F1nut

    Are those multielement good? Are the brass spikes same as Dayton?

    http://www.adonacorporation.com/tweaks.html
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    edited November 2021
    I am kinda liking these

    Stainless steel
    Has a rod
    I can maybe extend it to sandwich the platform with a longer m8 rod?

    gqhpjjclu9xc.png
    m8ekw4wwtnih.png
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,572
    Joey_V wrote: »
    This guy is asking $600 for 4 spikes. This is my ideal spike... but come on man...

    kntb4phgjjwk.jpeg
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    Joey_V wrote: »
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    I think what you have in mind is going to be beautiful and stable. It always makes me grit my teeth a little when people refer to spikes as isolation devices though. They couple and add stability. Those lightweight spikes the guy is selling are probably aluminum and definitely not what you want to use for a spike in my opinion. Hard steel would be best. I made mine out of Grade 8 bolts ground to a point.

    Can you show me pics?
    I’ll pay you for the spikes

    Exactly what I was thinking though. To hold up the amp and the 4” birch... you’re looking at a lot of weight

    The ones I made have absolutely no bling factor at all.....zero....zilch....nada. I just cut the head off of a 1/4-28 Grade 8 bolt, chucked it up into a high speed drill and held it to my bench grinder. They come out pretty well centered but not perfect. Mine are bearing on a concrete block as part of my DIY vibration isolation subwoofer platforms.

    You could get a machinist to drill and tap your bling ones of choice and the Grade 8 sharpened tips could be inserted in the ends. What they bear upon should preferably also be a very hard steel.

    Or you could settle for plain old stainless steel. Not as good in my opinion but much harder than brass or aluminum, and polishes up nicely for that bling factor.

    Joey you kill me🤣🤣🤣
    You spend thousands and thousands of dollars on gear YET you cheap mucker, whine about a few hundred dollars....

    My .02
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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Joey_V wrote: »
    This guy is asking $600 for 4 spikes. This is my ideal spike... but come on man...

    kntb4phgjjwk.jpeg
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    Joey_V wrote: »
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    I think what you have in mind is going to be beautiful and stable. It always makes me grit my teeth a little when people refer to spikes as isolation devices though. They couple and add stability. Those lightweight spikes the guy is selling are probably aluminum and definitely not what you want to use for a spike in my opinion. Hard steel would be best. I made mine out of Grade 8 bolts ground to a point.

    Can you show me pics?
    I’ll pay you for the spikes

    Exactly what I was thinking though. To hold up the amp and the 4” birch... you’re looking at a lot of weight

    The ones I made have absolutely no bling factor at all.....zero....zilch....nada. I just cut the head off of a 1/4-28 Grade 8 bolt, chucked it up into a high speed drill and held it to my bench grinder. They come out pretty well centered but not perfect. Mine are bearing on a concrete block as part of my DIY vibration isolation subwoofer platforms.

    You could get a machinist to drill and tap your bling ones of choice and the Grade 8 sharpened tips could be inserted in the ends. What they bear upon should preferably also be a very hard steel.

    Or you could settle for plain old stainless steel. Not as good in my opinion but much harder than brass or aluminum, and polishes up nicely for that bling factor.

    Joey you kill me🤣🤣🤣
    You spend thousands and thousands of dollars on gear YET you cheap mucker, whine about a few hundred dollars....

    My .02


    $600 x 6 (6 platforms). I can see 1 set. But 6 is a lot.

    That’s ridiculous for spikes. It’s made of steel only, there’s not even any still point or any other tech involved.

    We aren’t even talking about the cost for the super thick platforms.
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,654
    edited November 2021
    Joey_V wrote: »
    @F1nut

    Are those multielement good? Are the brass spikes same as Dayton?

    http://www.adonacorporation.com/tweaks.html

    They are excellent and nothing like Dayton. The Adona multi-element spikes are brass tipped with a Kevlar composite for the rest. I have a set here.

    Edit: if you're asking about those other spikes on their site, yes they are the same as Dayton.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,654
    Joey_V wrote: »
    This guy is asking $600 for 4 spikes. This is my ideal spike... but come on man...

    I had a local machine shop quote me $600.00 for 8 stainless steel spikes. The main part of the cost was the CAD time. I passed.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,572
    Those are very nice platforms.
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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    edited November 2021
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Those are very nice platforms.

    Agreed. 4” of birch, I believe that’s a 5 stack. I wanted a walnut top veneer so that’s what they prototyped as they never built anything with my specs and thickness.

    I have made contact with a builder who sources panzerholtz... more costly but I want to see what they can come up with.

    An sra stand will cost Atleast $3,000-4000 for the amp alone... I think I can build my entire set for that much. That’s 6 big 3 or 4” stands and 7 medium 2-3” component stands to buffer the components on the SRA Scuttle rack I have.

    This below is panzer in 24x34” which is the amp alone

    evgku8eh9gnj.jpeg
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    I think panzer is nicer than regular birch ply... but it’s gonna be about double the price. I know it’s used in high end turntables by clear audio so there’s probably some benefit. Not sure how much more it weighs over same size birch.
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    F1nut wrote: »
    Joey_V wrote: »
    This guy is asking $600 for 4 spikes. This is my ideal spike... but come on man...

    I had a local machine shop quote me $600.00 for 8 stainless steel spikes. The main part of the cost was the CAD time. I passed.
    @F1nut
    Jesse
    What do you about these 316L steel ones? I can have the builder custom length the m10 rod so that it screws through the entire platform on 4 corners.

    d62m0xgziaej.png
    kz1ppxekrvx2.png
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,654
    316L stainless steel is slightly more resistant to corrosion, which is not a concern for your purpose. Either 316 or 316L would make for excellent spikes, IMO.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,654
    Joey, since you need to pierce thick carpet you might ask if the seller can make the tip a sharp point. The ones in your pics appear slightly rounded.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    The seller for the panzer sent me side by side pics

    Personally I think he chose a very subpar example of birch ply

    I can see the panzer is more compressed, more ply.0y29o6n6fbjg.jpeg
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    F1nut wrote: »
    Joey, since you need to pierce thick carpet you might ask if the seller can make the tip a sharp point. The ones in your pics appear slightly rounded.

    Good eye Jesse
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,654
    Joey_V wrote: »
    The seller for the panzer sent me side by side pics

    Personally I think he chose a very subpar example of birch ply

    I can see the panzer is more compressed, more ply.0y29o6n6fbjg.jpeg

    Yeah, that's crappy plywood. This is baltic birch plywood.
    97adreose30h.jpg
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    F1nut wrote: »
    Joey_V wrote: »
    The seller for the panzer sent me side by side pics

    Personally I think he chose a very subpar example of birch ply

    I can see the panzer is more compressed, more ply.0y29o6n6fbjg.jpeg

    Yeah, that's crappy plywood. This is baltic birch plywood.
    97adreose30h.jpg

    I don’t like it when sellers try to trick the buyer. That’s what I thought too Jesse
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,654
    edited November 2021
    I had to look up this panzer material. It's full name is Panzerholz. A plywood material made under extreme pressure, which is so dense it sinks in water. It also happens to be bullet proof and was used by the Germans on tanks. Must weigh a ton!

    Joey, you might find this interesting.
    https://www.lessloss.com/page.html?id=80

    I should add that results are not surprising. Any wood or wood product will not resonate like metal will.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,306
    When you search under marine grade plywood...you'll find different grades up to 1-1/8" think
    You can double layer to desired thickness.

    Keep in mind the escalated cost for the panzer is the labor and blades to cut it

    https://www.google.com/search?q=marine+grade+plywood&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS967US967&sxsrf=AOaemvLfYbwfssYYIeL56ns8kB22BhLbpg:1636416328875&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwirpvLv_Yn0AhXUlWoFHYmSDPEQ_AUoAnoECAIQBA&biw=1436&bih=668&dpr=1.34#imgrc=ivgnV189o91QTM
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    F1nut wrote: »
    I had to look up this panzer material. It's full name is Panzerholz. A plywood material made under extreme pressure, which is so dense it sinks in water. It also happens to be bullet proof and was used by the Germans on tanks. Must weigh a ton!

    Joey, you might find this interesting.
    https://www.lessloss.com/page.html?id=80

    I should add that results are not surprising. Any wood or wood product will not resonate like metal will.

    Clear audio makes it for their statement products... it’s very cool

    My SRA rack uses birch but not panzer

    The guy who builds the panzer will text me a mock up of a rack he designed, I’ll see how good he really is. Otherwise I’ll stick with the Baltic platforms that I designed.

    A 4” stack should be enough to hold any product
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,570
    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    When you search under marine grade plywood...you'll find different grades up to 1-1/8" think
    You can double layer to desired thickness.

    Keep in mind the escalated cost for the panzer is the labor and blades to cut it

    https://www.google.com/search?q=marine+grade+plywood&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS967US967&sxsrf=AOaemvLfYbwfssYYIeL56ns8kB22BhLbpg:1636416328875&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwirpvLv_Yn0AhXUlWoFHYmSDPEQ_AUoAnoECAIQBA&biw=1436&bih=668&dpr=1.34#imgrc=ivgnV189o91QTM

    I don’t know how workable a slab of panzer is going to be.... if this guy will just supply it, the problems of drilling into it or rounding it off is going to be a pain

    And the question really is: am I going to hear a difference over a 4” Baltic ply platform?


    I don’t think I can hear that well
    Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,502
    I think it's about lots of small incremental improvements, which may be subtle on an individual basis, but when you add them up you get a huge not so subtle improvement. But you're just not going to get that without going through the process.
    George / NJ

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