Rt 16's

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Comments

  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,738
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,200
    It looks like the 8103 is a 8ohm driver and the 8002 is a 4 ohm driver. Other then that the spec's are similar. If I got both of them from you and used one in each cabinet I wonder if that would be fine?

    Where do you live? I could give them a run and see if they work out. Also what will you charge me for them? Only thing they are not an exact match but they may work out fine. The speakers might drop from 8 ohm to 6 ohm which floats during different frequencies.

    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • dromunds
    dromunds Posts: 10,015
    Shoot me a PM. I may not reply until morning
  • The RT7 driver is the MW8002 and the RT16 driver is the MW8103 according to the 1999 Polk parts guide.
  • dromunds
    dromunds Posts: 10,015
    Kenneth, will the 8002 work ok in the RT-16 with simply a drop from 8 ohm to 6 ohm as Mantis presumes?
  • I'm afraid I don't know. I would imagine it would change the overall acoustic balance of the speaker. Hard to say how much or what kind of change. Sorry, I wish I could be more help.
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,200
    I can contact Polk Tech Support or email. If someone is still working there that was around when these where made.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,772
    mantis wrote: »
    I can contact Polk Tech Support or email. If someone is still working there that was around when these where made.

    Or he can send you the drivers and you can try them out. You're both long time members. Worst case, you send them back to him. That's what I would do...
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,200
    mantis wrote: »
    I can contact Polk Tech Support or email. If someone is still working there that was around when these where made.

    Or he can send you the drivers and you can try them out. You're both long time members. Worst case, you send them back to him. That's what I would do...

    I'm game to try that. Then I could install both drivers , one in each speaker and see what happens. If they work out , we can talk about what it's going to take for me to keep them. If not I'll send them back.

    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,772
    edited February 2021
    mantis wrote: »
    mantis wrote: »
    I can contact Polk Tech Support or email. If someone is still working there that was around when these where made.

    Or he can send you the drivers and you can try them out. You're both long time members. Worst case, you send them back to him. That's what I would do...

    I'm game to try that. Then I could install both drivers , one in each speaker and see what happens. If they work out , we can talk about what it's going to take for me to keep them. If not I'll send them back.

    Personally, I'd agree on a price BEFORE he sends them to you. Saves any misunderstandings or hard feelings after the fact.
    Post edited by ken brydson on
  • dromunds
    dromunds Posts: 10,015
    I sent you a PM, mantis
  • dromunds
    dromunds Posts: 10,015
    Marv, I sent you a PM requesting your addy
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,772
    dromunds wrote: »
    Marv, I sent you a PM requesting your addy

    Marv?
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,200
    Love it can't wait
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,200
    So dromunds sent me 2 4 ohm woofers and 2 TRI LAM tweeters from is RT7s. Again thanks so much man, you ROCK!!!! They came packaged like they could be dropped off a building.

    The 4 ohm versions of these woofers are exactly the same size and bolt pattern which made mounting them nice. I swapped 1 each in both speakers to match so each speaker will have 1 8 ohm load driver and 1 4 ohm.

    When I first put them in the bass was gone and the driver played much lower then the other. Here come to find out they where out of phase so I re wired them and now the driver sound exactly as the 8 ohm driver did.

    For testing I had them set to LARGE full range no Subs then SMALL 80hz with dual subs. Honesty there is no comparison , when running in LARGE they sound good but not full. The bass is clean and smooth but doesn't go low enough to fill out the bottom end. When running in SMALL the mid range opens up and they are more dynamic. I use 2 Velodyne DD 10 Plus subwoofers one in the right front of my room and the other in the back left. The DD 10 plus subs make the RT16's sound like a much higher end speaker. Taking away the lower end out of them and allowing them to play Mid bass and up really changes them. Most people have this worry about my speakers are floor standing and should be set to LARGE. BUT what most people miss is bass placement in the room.

    I'm gonna fool around with the crossover settings and see what crossover point makes these speakers shine the most. Theory says anything from 150hz to 80hz usually plays the best in a room setting. I find that very true for just about every speaker I have installed.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.