First system
Comments
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Here's the thing, I drilled a hole in the base and the platform to run the speaker wires through. I even stuck 1/4 inch feet on the 40s so the wire would run under it to the binding posts.
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Well you can seal the bottom wire hole with some epoxy putty. As long as you can still remove the top shelf you should be able to fill the stands from above.
PS: the epoxy putty from Harbor Freight is cheaper than the stuff from Home Depot and fine enough for this task of sealing around the wire.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Nice standsWhen I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
Best thing to do is just listen to it and enjoy. Rome wasn't built in a day.
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mcphatty00 wrote: »Here's the thing, I drilled a hole in the base and the platform to run the speaker wires through. I even stuck 1/4 inch feet on the 40s so the wire would run under it to the binding posts.
Yeah, you could epoxy or glue, or even stuff foam in around the cable over the bottom hole.
Say you had 1-2" tall foam or a sponge. Just cut a slit in it to the center-ish area and wrap the cable like a taco 🌮. Reassemble the bottom, stuffing the foam/sponge to fit, turn stands upright, and fill.I disabled signatures. -
I get amped up reading threads like this, it reminds me of when I put my first HT together (though I spent more on my R50s than he did for his whole setup).
I would enjoy it as it is for now, as @willow said, Rome wasn't built in a day.
And welcome to the asylum!So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?
http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/ -
I get amped reading this thread when I look at this mess.
And that's not all of it. -
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Personally I'd focus on obtaining stands and working with what you got.
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Welcome To Club Polk
Your LCR tweeters as close to ear level as possible.
I believe Mantis would advise your surrounds:
1. go out more to the side,
2. a bit further away, ~5-6’ if possible
3. just behind you (~110 degrees)
4. pointing down into the listening area
I hope he chimes in to correct. Can’t say on that rear center
😊
TonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Welcome To Club Polk
Your LCR tweeters as close to ear level as possible.
I believe Mantis would advise your surrounds:
1. go out more to the side,
2. a bit further away, ~5-6’ if possible
3. just behind you (~110 degrees)
4. pointing down into the listening area
I hope he chimes in to correct. Can’t say on that rear center
😊
Tony
I have the rear center because, just by chance, I bought a used receiver that featured 6.1. -
Got the 30s down at ear level.
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Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Exponentially better. I clearly wasn't hearing the surrounds before, except in extreme instances. The rear center, although it looks too high, is strong.
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Is there such a thing as a rear center option on an amp?Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
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Thanks. Learn something new every day.
Out of curiosity, what is it for? Is there rear dialogue with 6.1?Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
Thanks. Learn something new every day.
Out of curiosity, what is it for? Is there rear dialogue with 6.1?
While it's fine for movies, I find it outstanding for music. I have two music performance degrees and I can hear a great deal more with it. -
Interesting. I know there is some music done in 5.1, but never heard of 6.1 music. What would be a good 6.1 CD? I need to start using my HT again.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
My last Rotel could do 5/6/7 channels.
Can’t recall if the “middle surround” was was a true rear center & it didn’t work all the time. The wife, at one point had me put my LCR and tv in a corner forcing adding a six channel to fill the hole. Please don’t laugh: like the same day God provided. Found someone selling a single new RTi A1* on eBay for, I think $50 including shipping
* using 2 for surrounds at the time
Also I recall reading somewhere, in the days prior to 7.X, if you routed your surround’s pre-outs through an older analogue pre/pro’s LR channel inputs, you could extract a Rear Center.
OP: I think your L&R surrounds need to be a little more to the rear pointing towards you, but you’re satisfied😊...
TonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Ok, I did what I didn't think I would. I found a pair of Monitor 70s for $140 that were 5 minutes away. I got them and moved the 40s to the surround spots. Honestly, I probably wasn't going to rest until I did this.
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mcphatty00 wrote: »Ok, I did what I didn't think I would. I found a pair of Monitor 70s for $140 that were 5 minutes away. I got them and moved the 40s to the surround spots. Honestly, I probably wasn't going to rest until I did this.
Sweet! Now you really need more power for those big boys!Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
mcphatty00 wrote: »Ok, I did what I didn't think I would. I found a pair of Monitor 70s for $140 that were 5 minutes away. I got them and moved the 40s to the surround spots. Honestly, I probably wasn't going to rest until I did this.
Sweet! Now you really need more power for those big boys!
They're currently working and sounding rather solid. I'll just have to be on the lookout for a badder unit. -
mcphatty00 wrote: »Ok, I did what I didn't think I would. I found a pair of Monitor 70s for $140 that were 5 minutes away. I got them and moved the 40s to the surround spots. Honestly, I probably wasn't going to rest until I did this.mcphatty00 wrote: »They're currently working and sounding rather solid. I'll just have to be on the lookout for a badder unit.
Less than 3 weeks in and already planning on upgrading. It's official, we have another convert.
So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?
http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/ -
Truth!
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Maybe someone can answer this. It goes across all the models and apparently lines. For example, Monitor 30s have 1 tweeter but so do Monitor 70s. Why?
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That's all that's needed.
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Because two would be outrageous!
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joecoulson wrote: »Because two would be outrageous!
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Tekton Moabs. Never heard them but there is plenty of buzz on them ( good and bad) in our hobby.