Greenhorn questions
Astrl55
Posts: 64
Hi Guys,
I'm not just new to the forum - I'm also a novice in hi-fi and electronics in general.
I'm hoping to get a few basic questions answered here.
My Dad is shipping me his original Monitor Model 5 speakers, from 1978 or 1979.
From what I've seen here, changing all the parts in the crossovers seems like a good starter project for me. (I'm just learning to solder!)
Even though I've seen a bunch of pictures here, I still don't know the answer to a few questions:
1. Is the crossover board a printed circuit, or is it just a piece of material with holes in it for the leads of the components to go through?
2. Do you just twist the leads of the different components together and solder them, or is there more technique involved?
Those two answers should get me started, so thanks to anyone that can answer those.
I'm not just new to the forum - I'm also a novice in hi-fi and electronics in general.
I'm hoping to get a few basic questions answered here.
My Dad is shipping me his original Monitor Model 5 speakers, from 1978 or 1979.
From what I've seen here, changing all the parts in the crossovers seems like a good starter project for me. (I'm just learning to solder!)
Even though I've seen a bunch of pictures here, I still don't know the answer to a few questions:
1. Is the crossover board a printed circuit, or is it just a piece of material with holes in it for the leads of the components to go through?
2. Do you just twist the leads of the different components together and solder them, or is there more technique involved?
Those two answers should get me started, so thanks to anyone that can answer those.
Comments
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Welcome to Club Polk.
It's printed on the bottom side. The component leads go through holes in the board and are soldered there. You can Google pictures of the boards if you can't wait to see them in person. Don't be twisting stuff, never a good idea.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thank you President F1Nut.
How did you know I couldn't stand the wait?!
BTW - I searched Google up one side and down the other, looking in vain for even a single image of the non-component side of the circular crossover board. -
Not much to see on the bottom just traces and solder points.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
This is from a Monitor 7, so similar to yours. Exciting stuff....lol
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Hi Guys,
I'm not just new to the forum - I'm also a novice in hi-fi and electronics in general.
I'm hoping to get a few basic questions answered here. -
Welcome to CP! You've found the right place! Lot's of folks here willing to help!Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
This is from a Monitor 7, so similar to yours. Exciting stuff....lol
Thanks for that -- I really just wanted to see what I was getting into, before I got into it! I was thinking that the pieces that made up the crossover connected to each other by having their leads twisted together on the other side of the board. Now I realize they are connected by traces.
Thanks everyone for welcoming me.
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I don't yet have the speakers in hand, but another question occurred to me.
I see many here using zip ties to secure the capacitors to the crossover board.
Can I drill through what looks like copper-plated areas on the board?
Is that what we're seeing in the image above?
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Those are the holes for mounting the little shunt inductor. You can drill the circuit board, just don't compromise any of the traces while you're doing itHome Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Thanks for that, but are the traces the coppers areas seen above?
(meaning I can only drill through the narrow brown lines separating the copper areas?) -
You can drill through the copper traces, but I don't recommend it. Use 3M VHB tape between the board and cap to secure them. Super strong stuff.
FYI, if you do drill don't breath the fiberglass dust.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thank you F1nut -- your attention to detail bespeaks a wealth of knowledge.