Suggestions

unrealii · May 2004

I have a set of db3000 tweeters and crossovers. I really enjoy the sound of these, but now I need to find a 6.5" mid range speaker to complete this system. Anyone have any suggestions. Would I be better off selling these tweeters on ebay and buying a brand new db or momo 6.5" component system?

mbdyer12 · May 2004

Thats what I would do personally. I have a set of the db6500's and I love them very much...but there's always an alternative so I'll let someone else chime in now...

exalted512 · May 2004

id call polk up and see if theyll sell you just the drivers for the db comps
but it might be REALLY expensive though
they wanted a 100 bucks from me for one momo tweeter...thats BS
-Cody

neomagus00 · May 2004

or it might not, with the new lines coming out

unrealii · May 2004

Thanks for the replies. I did infact call up polk and they do not have any left. I am searching ebay because I know they come up here and there. I was wondering, is it worth the effort for these "old" db speakers. How do the newer db's / momo's compare to them?

exalted512 · May 2004

the newer DB speakers do not compare with the old ones, the old ones are much better...i think they are comparable with the momos, a slight bit more accurate but a much smaller power handling
-Cody

Jstas · May 2004

The old Db's are probably the BEST automotive speaker Polk Audio ever produced.

AustinKP · May 2004

You like them better than the current Momo MM6's or the MM465's?

unrealii · May 2004

In terms of power handling, I hope I am ok. My pending setup which is going in my nissan maxima is
-Eclipse cd8053 w/8v pre out
-MTX 5400x 5 channel amp (configured as: 25 Watts x 4 into a 4 Ohm load with less than 0.1% Thd+N, 200 Watts RMS into 2 Ohms with less than 0.5% Thd+N)
-Image dynamics idq10" sub

I'm looking for sound quality and I dont blast my music. I hope the the older db's can handle this power that I am going to give them (that is if I can find a set).

exalted512 · May 2004

the old DBs can handle 25 watts easily
i would never recommend the mm6s with only 25 watts
since you have a five channel, id run 25 watts to the tweet, 25 watts to the mid, and lose the crossover
-Cody

unrealii · May 2004

When the amp was tested at mtx, it put out nearly twice that amount rms watts. However, the eclipse hu that I have doesn't have an amp built in, so I have to use this mtx to power the entire system, otherwise I would only power the fronts and sub with the amp.

MacLeod · May 2004

First off I would say sell the stuff you got now and grab a set of MM6 or wait til the MMC6500s come out, if they ever do!, and I think youll be happier.

Cody is never going to let me hear the end of this but, you should really consider upgrading your amp to one that puts out a good bit more power. Especially if you go with the MMs. They need at least 100 watts to do em justice and Id recommend around the neighborhood of 125-150. Im not into mega decibels either but you need a good amount of power for your speakers to play cleanly and effortlessly. Check out most SQ competitiors rigs. They are usually running 150+ to each channel.

I would say dump the rear speakers, get you an MTX Thunder 502 (125x2) and a Thunder 421 (420x1), a set of MM6 and go to town!

unrealii · May 2004

Attached is the originial birth sheet of the amp. I would really like to keep it since I got it for a good deal, and I have not budgeted replacing the amp in my radio upgrade. I'm already $150 over on the hu, but I bought it because it was clearanced out by goodguys and seemed to be a good sq hu.

Dont know if this is important to mention, but I planned on running new wires from the amp to the speakers in the doors. However, I found out that there is a connector for the door wires, so I will use a molex connectors to connect to the speaker wire right before the door connector. My dad will kill me if I start drilling holes. The tweeters are in the dash, so the xovers and tweeters will be directly wired to the amp.

unrealii · May 2004

Here is another sheet. My amp mysteriously (bass stopped working) broke and I sent it in. This sheet makes no sense in the numbers though

spud · May 2004

edited

MacLeod · May 2004

Do you think MTX could possibly be MORE conservative on their ratings!?

Those are some pretty impressive numbers. Especially the .03% THD and 109 SNR!

OK, youve convinced me. Keep that amp. However run it in a bi-amped configuration. I still say dump the rear speakers and buyy the MM6 and run the tweeters off the front channels and the mids off the rear. This gives you more flexibility in tuning and will deliver enough power to make them perform well.

exalted512 · May 2004

ok i didnt know if it was a fluke or not, but macleod is officially converted...
but anyway, dude, the old DBs are truly awesome...theyre as detailed and a little warmer than the momos
bi-amp
55 watts to the tweeter and 55 watts to the mid(hopefully you can find one!) is awesome
if you bought the mm6s, youd be playing them under their potential, however with the DBs that will give you a perfect match!
my vote goes to going to ebay and finding an old DB mid
-Cody

unrealii · May 2004

If bi-amping will make a huge difference, I may go for it. The only thing is that my hu doesn't have a pre-amp. I can downgrade to the next model, save myself $10 and lose 16v balanced out, gold plated connectors and digital in. Doubt any of that would make a diff to me.

I found a place that has mm6's for $200. Tweeter has mmc6500's for $219 (never heard of these, nor could find details about them on polks home page).

I would definitly like to go with the db's because they are cheaper. How well do they hold up in terms of reliablility? I know there are a few auctions here and there (please dont post em, I'll find them).

neomagus00 · May 2004

yay for biamping, way more flexibility

also yay for balanced output, i'd stick with that for the $10. where did you find the CD8053, cause eclipse doesn't have specs online. i just wanted to check, cause you seem to be under the impression that they have no preouts, but don't balanced outputs count??

exalted512 · May 2004

i thought you said your HU had 8volt preouts?
which reminds me, you need to call MTX and ask if their amps can handle 8volts...some cant
but im pretty MTX does...but better safe than sorry
and as far as reliability...fear not...people still have those speakers (including Jstas on this forum) and love em to death
-Cody

neomagus00 · May 2004

i've just been scanning mtx's stuff, and i'm pretty sure they take 8-volt.

unrealii · May 2004

Here is the specs for the cd8053: http://www.eclipse-web.com/cgi-bin/com/pdflog/cnt02.cgi/Cat_L.pdf
I paid $430 for it from good guys. Tweeter has the CD8443 for $420.

The cd8053 only has preouts, it has no rms power. If I bi-amp, I get no rears:( This is concerning me because I have a decent sized car (maxima).

I called up mtx and my amp does accept 8v. For the 16v balanced out, it will cost me an extra $100 for the adapter and another set of rca's. Think I'll stick to 8v.

exalted512 · May 2004

most people that go for SQ dont use rear speakers
-Cody

unrealii · May 2004

Originally posted by exalted512
most people that go for SQ dont use rear speakers
-Cody

Really? Damn, looks like I need to do some more hw. Would the time alignment settings on the cd8053 help at all if I wanted rears?

exalted512 · May 2004

really...most SQ competitors run only front speakers so the sound stage will be in front of them
if you run rear speakers it will bring it back
the whole point of cds is trying to get it to sound as close as it can to actually being at a concert
have you ever been to a concert where the sound was coming from behind you?
but i do run rear speakers and i do use time alignment and it helps out A LOT
my next vehicle will not have rear speakers though
whats not to like?
better sq
cheaper
less stuff to break
less stuff to wire

-Cody

Systems · May 2004

how exactly does bi-amping work? im a little confused on that...

neomagus00 · May 2004

yah, for sq go w/o rears. way simpler to configure. the only possible advantage i can imagine is simply more dB's... up to you, but rears make it much much more difficult to get it to sound good. if you like a true live-concert effect, you can put the rears in with a bandpass from maybe 200-2000 Hz or thereabouts with a lot of delay... to simulate the rear-wall reflection.

exalted512 · May 2004

bi-amping with a 4 channel amp is hooking up one tweeter to one channel, the other tweeter to another, the mid to another, and the other mid to the other
then set the HP and crossovers appropiately
-Cody

MacLeod · May 2004

Im a big fan of bi-amping. However the only real advantage to bi-amping is that you can adjust your tweeters ouput a lot better than you can with the -0, -3, -6db adjustments on your crossover.

The disadvantages are that 4 channels are usually bigger and can be more expensive than an equivalent 2 channel.

Systems · May 2004

well if i were to say, bi-amp my dx 6.5 components, that have a 40 watt rms, and my amp does 40x4, so could i do 40 to the tweeter, and 40 to the mid and still be ok? and could i use the crossover that came with them for just the tweeter, as in, use the input, and then only use the output for the tweeter?

exalted512 · May 2004

im not sure if i understand you correctly
if you bi-amp you do not need the crossover that came with the speakers, you use the crossover on the amp
-Cody

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