Crown XLS 1502 - is it enough to power RTiA9s?

pacogolf888
pacogolf888 Posts: 14
in Speakers
Hello everyone, got myself into a little dilemma. I was able to pick up a pair of RTiA9s for a reasonable price. Read up before pulling the trigger so I somewhat knew that they needed POWER. I currently have it hooked up to an old Roksan Caspian Power Amp (70W continuous into 8 ohms) via Receiver's front Pre-Outs. Well... it's ok but it's not enough.

I'm not an audiophile - I do enjoy listening to music but it's mainly for the home theater. Would the Crown XLS 1502 be enough or do I need to step it up a little and go to 2002 or step up even more to the 2502?

Thanks for your thoughts and advise.
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  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,113
    Do yourself a favor and get the idea of using a Crown amp for home audio out of your head. They are intended to provide lots of power in a "live" environment, such as filling a public room with sound from a PA, which they do quite well.

    And please don't return to this thread a month from now and ask which Audio/Video Receiver would be best to "bi-amp" your RTiA9s or I'll send that little dog in my avatar to chew your legs off. :o
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  • mlistens03
    mlistens03 Posts: 2,767
    edited August 2019
    It should have enough power, but having heard both the XLS and the XLi series (serieses? Serai?) I'd recommend going with the XLi series instead, the class AB sounds a bit nicer, but only if you are unwilling to look into used home amps.

    That being said, I used a pro amp on my LSi25s for about 6 months, and at the time I thought it sounded good. But I didn't know what I didn't know, and when I replaced it my ears were opened.

    I don't know as much about the RTiAs, but my NAD C352 drove my LSis without breaking a sweat. Good brands to look for in a power amp are NAD, Parasound, Rotel, B&K, etc. Most you can find used for $2-500ish I think?

    Other people here can give you more, better advice. :)
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  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    I started with some crown amps, listened to advice here and got a parasound.

    Although crowns get loud, moving to a better dedicated amp was the best move I've made....

    For my ears that is :)
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  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    Yes, no pro amp will sound good. It will be very harsh and brazen sounding with no nuance. Used parasound HCA 1200 or 1500, various rotel or b&k models etc...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:     Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
    Bedroom 2.1     Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
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  • pacogolf888
    pacogolf888 Posts: 14
    Viking64 wrote: »
    Do yourself a favor and get the idea of using a Crown amp for home audio out of your head. They are intended to provide lots of power in a "live" environment, such as filling a public room with sound from a PA, which they do quite well.

    And please don't return to this thread a month from now and ask which Audio/Video Receiver would be best to "bi-amp" your RTiA9s or I'll send that little dog in my avatar to chew your legs off. :o

    haha - guess if I ask now - I won't get my legs chewed off... Marantz SR5010. Not the lastest but somewhat holds up. Only looking to update/upgrade the amp...
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  • pacogolf888
    pacogolf888 Posts: 14
    My alternative is a Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 3. It gives me the power at twice the price of the Crown.

    I actually started searching the used market (all my equipment are used) for an amp. To get the wattage for the amount I'm willing to spend... I'm looking at 20 year old equipment - hence I started looking at pro amps.
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  • michaeljhsda2
    michaeljhsda2 Posts: 2,185
    Been there, done that with pro amps...sound quality is not refined at all. Eventually discovered sonic bliss with tube amps.
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's
    Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
    SDA 2B TL's
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  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,113
    pacogolf888 wrote: »
    My alternative is a Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 3. It gives me the power at twice the price of the Crown.

    I actually started searching the used market (all my equipment are used) for an amp. To get the wattage for the amount I'm willing to spend... I'm looking at 20 year old equipment - hence I started looking at pro amps.

    Current is more important than wattage.
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  • pacogolf888
    pacogolf888 Posts: 14
    Viking64 wrote: »

    Current is more important than wattage.

    Would you be able to provide more info? Still a newb. Thanks.
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  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,113
    pacogolf888 wrote: »

    Would you be able to provide more info? Still a newb. Thanks.

    No.
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  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    Welcome to Club Polk Pacogolf, if you want to get an amp, then get the Emotiva which is at least built for home amplification.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
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  • pacogolf888
    pacogolf888 Posts: 14
    Viking64 wrote: »
    pacogolf888 wrote: »
    My alternative is a Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 3. It gives me the power at twice the price of the Crown.

    I actually started searching the used market (all my equipment are used) for an amp. To get the wattage for the amount I'm willing to spend... I'm looking at 20 year old equipment - hence I started looking at pro amps.

    Current is more important than wattage.

    I can't quantify current is more important than wattage...

    I've seen 45 amperes peak current per channel and another unit's spec states It can deliver over 3 kW of fully regulated power... the basics and most consistent quantifiable spec seems to be watts per channel

    I need help to understand how current comes into play.
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  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,113
    pacogolf888 wrote: »
    I can't quantify current is more important than wattage...

    I've seen 45 amperes peak current per channel and another unit's spec states It can deliver over 3 kW of fully regulated power... the basics and most consistent quantifiable spec seems to be watts per channel

    I need help to understand how current comes into play.

    Just get the Crown amp then. While you're at it, trade the RTiA9s for some Bose. Then toss the Bose in a dumpster and get a sound bar.
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  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,086
    What major city Craigslist do you use?
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
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  • joecoulson
    joecoulson Posts: 4,943
    Jimmy. Add an explanation on why current is more important than wattage.
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  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,113
    joecoulson wrote: »
    Jimmy. Add an explanation on why current is more important than wattage.

    No. You.
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  • pacogolf888
    pacogolf888 Posts: 14
    Nightfall wrote: »
    What major city Craigslist do you use?

    I’m in Toronto. We use Kijiji up here.
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  • Derm
    Derm Posts: 95
    edited August 2019
    Welcome to the forum.
    The RtiA9 is a very good performer for home theater but as you have found out require serious power.

    I was in the same boat many years ago and ended up buying a Yamaha avr and added a NAD power amp. Handles the speakers very well and currently retails for $1799 CAD. I negotiated mine down to $1500 when I bought it new.

    NAD, Anthem & Bryston are all manufactured in Ontario so you should be able to easily access them for an audition.

    Checkout Canuck audio mart for used gear. https://www.canuckaudiomart.com/

    Bloor Radio in Toronto carries audiophile gear (NAD & Bryston as well). They may have some traded units there in addition to the new gear.

    Take the others advice on “pro” amps. They are not designed for the home use environment.

    Good Luck with your amp search.
    Speakers
    Front - LsiM707, Front presence - LsiM703, Future ATMOS - VS 700LS
    Center - LsiM706c, Rear surrounds - 80 F/X LS, VS 900LS. Sub - (pair) Klipsch R-12SW
    AVR - Yamaha RX-A3010
    AMP - NAD C275BEE
    Main HT - LG 4K 75”, Sony UBXP800M2
    Bedroom HT - LG 55" 4K, Philips BDP7501 4K UHD player , Yamaha SRT-1500 sound projector, Spare room HT LG 50” plasma, Yamaha BD-671
    Office - Pioneer X-CM56, Bose iPod dock
    In Storage - 4 - RTiA9, RtiA3, CSiA6, FXiA4, Blackstone TL1

    The only source of knowledge is experience. Albert Einstein
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  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Welcome to CP @pacogolf888 ! Never heard a Crown amp, but what I have learned is the advice here on CP is rock solid. Sometimes subtle, sometimes in your face, but good advice none the less. As such, I've stayed away from Crown.

    I started out with Carver SS amps, which IMO are very good, but moved on. This is a journey after all. Do what your budget allows, I like good used stuff (plenty here on CP from time to time), and see where it goes! We'll help you for sure! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,905
    edited August 2019
    Current can become limiting if the load (loudspeaker) is of nominally low impedance (4 ohms or less) and/or if it has a very complicated impedance curve ("hard to drive" in the traditional parlance of amp/speaker 'synergy' discussions).

    Quality is more important than voltage, current, or wattage when it comes to amplification.

    IMO, of course.

    B)


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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,571
    edited August 2019
    pacogolf888 wrote: »
    Viking64 wrote: »
    pacogolf888 wrote: »
    My alternative is a Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 3. It gives me the power at twice the price of the Crown.

    I actually started searching the used market (all my equipment are used) for an amp. To get the wattage for the amount I'm willing to spend... I'm looking at 20 year old equipment - hence I started looking at pro amps.

    Current is more important than wattage.

    I can't quantify current is more important than wattage...

    I've seen 45 amperes peak current per channel and another unit's spec states It can deliver over 3 kW of fully regulated power... the basics and most consistent quantifiable spec seems to be watts per channel

    I need help to understand how current comes into play.

    my hair dryer puts out 1500 watts doesn't mean it will run my speakers with authority.

    I'll do my best to describe here. But I could be wrong and it will not be the first time.

    Simply put speakers are not just 8 ohm or 4 ohm. As the ohm value goes down the amp needs to provide much higher current to be able to provide the same amount of watts if it cannot it clips. Some amps can get unstable in the low 3 ohm range if the speakers like to play at or near that range. A good way to tell and amp has ample current and has a great power supple (which is very important and $$$$$$) is if the amp doubles down. 200wpc @8ohm 400wpc @4ohm 800wpc @2ohm 1600wpc @1ohm. THIS AMP HAS CURRENT :D
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  • joecoulson
    joecoulson Posts: 4,943
    Doc, Ivan, very helpful. Jimmy, not so much...
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  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,113
    joecoulson wrote: »
    Doc, Ivan, very helpful. Jimmy, not so much...

    zawbw28jsgsr.jpg
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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    joecoulson wrote: »
    Doc, Ivan, very helpful. Jimmy, not so much...

    Agreed, Jimmy, this is rather unlike you. I mean your posts are a bit harsh, even by Jesse's standards.
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  • pacogolf888
    pacogolf888 Posts: 14
    FestYboy wrote: »
    joecoulson wrote: »
    Doc, Ivan, very helpful. Jimmy, not so much...

    Agreed, Jimmy, this is rather unlike you. I mean your posts are a bit harsh, even by Jesse's standards.

    Bose... Sound bar...
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  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,113
    Please call me "Jim".

    When I come to this forum, I tone things down drastically compared to other forums.

    I was starting to sense the "I came for advice but disregarded everything I was told and did what I wanted to do" attitude that we see so much here. That didn't fully happen, but I was done answering regardless.

    A little pug chewing someone's legs off should only be perceived as a joke, as the OP did.

    I honestly felt that someone other than me could better explain what I stated about current and wattage. Ken and Ivan got the "No" joke and its intentional abruptness.

    My Bose/soundbar joke was an example of me showing restraint.

    Being told: "Jimmy. Add an explanation on why current is more important than wattage" and only answering "No, You", was me showing considerably more restraint.

    Then Joe decided to call me out again. I guess somehow I threaten his "safe space" where everyone kisses a$$ and loves Tool. :p

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  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,113
    pacogolf888 wrote: »
    Bose... Sound bar...

    Oh, so now you're going to go from laughing at harmless jokes to acting all offended because you have a little "back up"? :D Well then, let's see how this plays out. B)
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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    Ok, where's the popcorn.... :p
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  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,113
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Ok, where's the popcorn.... :p

    jyoj9b7y6abz.jpg
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  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,086
    edited August 2019
    Why'd you have to bring Tool into it? You know what? Pugs are ugly. I phart in your general direction.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
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