SDA SRS Upgrade
xsmi
Posts: 1,798
This is only the beginning of my journey upgrading these wonderful speakers. As you can see, I have started with the tweeters as this is an upgrade that I knew that I wanted to make. I do have the crossover parts enroute to the house so those will be next. However, I've run out of summer break as band camps start for me on Wednesday. I'll upgrade this thread as I get things done. Also, I have tried to massage, use a pin, duct tape and vacuum the two dust covers that are pushed in on my two mid-woofers. No luck, any suggestions?
2-channelBelles 22A Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout.
Comments
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I use a hair dryer and a shop vac. My shop vac tube is the same diameter as the dust cover.
Step 1 - Heat the dust cover with the hair dryer. This softens the plastic to make it easier to change shape.
Step 2 - apply vacuum to suck cover back out into shape.
Your mileage may vary. You may want to try on a less important piece or wait for others to add methods. I quit after I just got it close.
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Cool. Thanks.
2-channelBelles 22A Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout. -
Now that I have all of the parts for the crossover upgrade, being a newb at soldering, I tried my hand on an old non working SRS2 crossover. The spots circled are places where I desoldered the joints. I tried for over 40min. with the solder wick pictured to clean up the areas. But, I was afraid to burn up the boards. Any tips from old hands? To say that I’m scared to death is an understatement. But I have almost $500 worth of components sitting here.2-channelBelles 22A Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout. -
afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Not enough heat. Get a big-enough soldering iron, get the solder hot and melted and wicked up into the desoldering braid, and get out.
The spots circled are places where I desoldered the joints. I tried for over 40min. with the solder wick pictured to clean up the areas. But, I was afraid to burn up the boards.
You'll cause more damage being "careful", using too-little heat and too much time, than just heating the bejesus out of it and then removing the heat quickly.
It MIGHT help to put a dab of flux on the solder before heating. This would tend to clean the de-solder braid (which shouldn't really be needed if the braid is fairly new and bright copper-colored--but it won't hurt.
You are not going to clean up all traces of solder. There's going to be some residue, the issue will be whether there's so much residue that you can't free the affected component--resistor, capacitor, whatever. You got the components out...good enough. -
I did not bother to much with desolder. Just used a solder sucker. Once the part was out I used Cardus silver solder to put the new part in. I would not be to worried about removing all the solder that's on there except the excess of course.
If you are new to soldering I found that YouTube had a lot of great videos on soldering.
I was fortunate and my father did soldering on the Voyager 1 and 2 Space crafts. So any questions I had got answered.
Good luck bud! The work and cost is so worth it. -
If you are new to soldering I found that YouTube had a lot of great videos on soldering.
I was fortunate and my father did soldering on the Voyager 1 and 2 Space crafts. So any questions I had got answered.
Good luck bud! The work and cost is so worth it.
I’ve watched about 4hrs of videos. LOL
Your dad is my hero.
BTW I used the solder sucker then tried the wick to clean more.
@Shurkey, my iron says it gets up to 850*. That’s not hot enough? Maybe a different tip?2-channelBelles 22A Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout. -
Good luck on the build.
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I run mine at 700° and IMHO that wick stuff is a pita. I only use a sucker and on my boards like that i never worried about sucking up the old. I just heated it up pulled old out cap made sure the hole was clean and stuck new in soldered in place with new Cardas quad solder. I also used a wider tip not a sharp pin type end. Wider flat tips put more heat to the board faster
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Ok. I’ll try the wider tip tomorrow. I used the pin today.2-channelBelles 22A Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout.
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Get you some 91% alcohol when your done use it to clean off the flux with a Qtip or scorch marks in your case
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Get a pump action solder sucker before you ruin the boards.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Solder Sucker, followed by 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to clean all the old flux. You should also use some Scotch Brite pads for metal, at all solder points. Re-wash with Alcohol. This creates a nice clean board with no worries.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
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Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
I did use a solder sucker, first. Then, I tried to clean up the area with the wick.2-channelBelles 22A Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout.
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I did use a solder sucker, first. Then, I tried to clean up the area with the wick.
Was it a heated solder sucker? I've had good luck with a heated one with no need to wick the hole clean. If it is a heated one give it a little time to work and move it around slightly to see if the old solder is flowing. Once it is flowing release the bulb and you'll have a nice clean hole to work with. -
I did use a solder sucker, first. Then, I tried to clean up the area with the wick.
It wasn't a pump action because if it was you wouldn't have any solder left to clean up with the wick.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Yeah, it's a pump. NO it's not heated. I'm obviously doing it wrong. LOL2-channelBelles 22A Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout.
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Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Yep and a
Yep and all I’m doing is burning up the board. 😢 Anyone live near Toledo?2-channelBelles 22A Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout. -
This is the heated one I use.https://www.ebay.com/itm/233195271512
I'm an impatient klutz with myopia, unsteady hands and I do not have any luck with the plunger type you have pictured. In my case the solder is normally back to being solid by the time I get it in position to do it's job -
That's the problem I'm having as well.2-channelBelles 22A Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout.
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You have to put the tip of the sucker right up to the tip of the iron and as soon as the solder melts hit the button.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The tips are Teflon or other super high heat sort of thing. Gosh I've never melted one or been afraid I would. it's a two handed approach for sure.
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I admit I suck at soldering. I probably suck at solder sucking too!
Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
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Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
You have to put the tip of the sucker right up to the tip of the iron and as soon as the solder melts hit the button.
That’s been my approach, but the solder dries too fast. Or, I don’t get enough out of the area because I’m not able to hold it tight enough.
2-channelBelles 22A Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout. -
Keep the iron on the solder with the sucker kind of hovering over the solder and iron, then hit that button when the solder melts still keeping the iron on the solder because as soon as you lift the iron the solder starts to solidify.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Very cheaply made but I've used this on 5 sets of SDA XO work, binding posts, etc., along w/a solder sucker. Helps position parts, free up your hands and mitigate balancing acts....$4.99 @ Harbor Freight. Kind of an art to using it but it helps.
Edit to add.....
Just saw this on Amazon. A bit more $$$ but looks like a better design:
https://www.amazon.com/QuadHands-Soldering-Flexible-Position-Stainless/dp/B00GIKVP5K?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffsb-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00GIKVP5K
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Or throw the boards away and just do it point to point
😜- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
2-channelBelles 22A Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout.
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