SDA SRS Upgrade

xsmixsmi Posts: 1,427
This is only the beginning of my journey upgrading these wonderful speakers. As you can see, I have started with the tweeters as this is an upgrade that I knew that I wanted to make. I do have the crossover parts enroute to the house so those will be next. However, I've run out of summer break as band camps start for me on Wednesday. I'll upgrade this thread as I get things done. Also, I have tried to massage, use a pin, duct tape and vacuum the two dust covers that are pushed in on my two mid-woofers. No luck, any suggestions?

mxdvgmcppczz.jpg
2-channel
Yaqin MC-30L, Marantz SA8005, Denon DVD 3900, Sony C69ES CD Changer, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box MM, Klipsch KG-4, Monster Cable throughout.
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Comments

  • cincycat13cincycat13 Posts: 860
    I use a hair dryer and a shop vac. My shop vac tube is the same diameter as the dust cover.

    Step 1 - Heat the dust cover with the hair dryer. This softens the plastic to make it easier to change shape.

    Step 2 - apply vacuum to suck cover back out into shape.

    Your mileage may vary. You may want to try on a less important piece or wait for others to add methods. I quit after I just got it close.

    3h8mko0s6uzq.jpg
    x976rzmib9i8.jpg

  • xsmixsmi Posts: 1,427
    Cool. Thanks.
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  • xsmixsmi Posts: 1,427
    npb08iiuvoy5.jpeg

    Now that I have all of the parts for the crossover upgrade, being a newb at soldering, I tried my hand on an old non working SRS2 crossover. The spots circled are places where I desoldered the joints. I tried for over 40min. with the solder wick pictured to clean up the areas. But, I was afraid to burn up the boards. Any tips from old hands? To say that I’m scared to death is an understatement. But I have almost $500 worth of components sitting here.
    2-channel
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  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 8,505
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,896
    edited August 18
    xsmi wrote: »
    npb08iiuvoy5.jpeg

    The spots circled are places where I desoldered the joints. I tried for over 40min. with the solder wick pictured to clean up the areas. But, I was afraid to burn up the boards.
    Not enough heat. Get a big-enough soldering iron, get the solder hot and melted and wicked up into the desoldering braid, and get out.

    You'll cause more damage being "careful", using too-little heat and too much time, than just heating the bejesus out of it and then removing the heat quickly.

    It MIGHT help to put a dab of flux on the solder before heating. This would tend to clean the de-solder braid (which shouldn't really be needed if the braid is fairly new and bright copper-colored--but it won't hurt.

    You are not going to clean up all traces of solder. There's going to be some residue, the issue will be whether there's so much residue that you can't free the affected component--resistor, capacitor, whatever. You got the components out...good enough.
  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 1,246
    I did not bother to much with desolder. Just used a solder sucker. Once the part was out I used Cardus silver solder to put the new part in. I would not be to worried about removing all the solder that's on there except the excess of course.

    If you are new to soldering I found that YouTube had a lot of great videos on soldering.

    I was fortunate and my father did soldering on the Voyager 1 and 2 Space crafts. So any questions I had got answered.

    Good luck bud! The work and cost is so worth it.
  • xsmixsmi Posts: 1,427
    edited August 18
    CH46E wrote: »

    If you are new to soldering I found that YouTube had a lot of great videos on soldering.

    I was fortunate and my father did soldering on the Voyager 1 and 2 Space crafts. So any questions I had got answered.

    Good luck bud! The work and cost is so worth it.

    I’ve watched about 4hrs of videos. LOL

    Your dad is my hero.

    BTW I used the solder sucker then tried the wick to clean more.

    @Shurkey, my iron says it gets up to 850*. That’s not hot enough? Maybe a different tip?
    2-channel
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  • oldrockeroldrocker Posts: 2,225
    Good luck on the build.
  • xsmixsmi Posts: 1,427
    Ok. I’ll try the wider tip tomorrow. I used the pin today.
    2-channel
    Yaqin MC-30L, Marantz SA8005, Denon DVD 3900, Sony C69ES CD Changer, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box MM, Klipsch KG-4, Monster Cable throughout.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,715
    Get you some 91% alcohol when your done use it to clean off the flux with a Qtip or scorch marks in your case ;)
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    Get a pump action solder sucker before you ruin the boards.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,448
    edited August 19
    Solder Sucker, followed by 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to clean all the old flux. You should also use some Scotch Brite pads for metal, at all solder points. Re-wash with Alcohol. This creates a nice clean board with no worries.
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  • xsmixsmi Posts: 1,427
    I did use a solder sucker, first. Then, I tried to clean up the area with the wick.
    2-channel
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  • motorstereomotorstereo Posts: 1,324
    xsmi wrote: »
    I did use a solder sucker, first. Then, I tried to clean up the area with the wick.

    Was it a heated solder sucker? I've had good luck with a heated one with no need to wick the hole clean. If it is a heated one give it a little time to work and move it around slightly to see if the old solder is flowing. Once it is flowing release the bulb and you'll have a nice clean hole to work with.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    xsmi wrote: »
    I did use a solder sucker, first. Then, I tried to clean up the area with the wick.

    It wasn't a pump action because if it was you wouldn't have any solder left to clean up with the wick.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • xsmixsmi Posts: 1,427
    Yeah, it's a pump. NO it's not heated. I'm obviously doing it wrong. LOL
    2-channel
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  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • xsmixsmi Posts: 1,427
    Yep and a4f8nlluh7lez.jpeg

    Yep and all I’m doing is burning up the board. 😢 Anyone live near Toledo?
    2-channel
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  • motorstereomotorstereo Posts: 1,324
    This is the heated one I use.https://www.ebay.com/itm/233195271512
    I'm an impatient klutz with myopia, unsteady hands and I do not have any luck with the plunger type you have pictured. In my case the solder is normally back to being solid by the time I get it in position to do it's job
  • xsmixsmi Posts: 1,427
    That's the problem I'm having as well.
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  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    You have to put the tip of the sucker right up to the tip of the iron and as soon as the solder melts hit the button.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,715
    The tips are Teflon or other super high heat sort of thing. Gosh I've never melted one or been afraid I would. it's a two handed approach for sure.
  • verbverb Posts: 8,009
    I admit I suck at soldering. I probably suck at solder sucking too! :)
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  • xsmixsmi Posts: 1,427
    F1nut wrote: »
    You have to put the tip of the sucker right up to the tip of the iron and as soon as the solder melts hit the button.

    That’s been my approach, but the solder dries too fast. Or, I don’t get enough out of the area because I’m not able to hold it tight enough.
    2-channel
    Yaqin MC-30L, Marantz SA8005, Denon DVD 3900, Sony C69ES CD Changer, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box MM, Klipsch KG-4, Monster Cable throughout.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    Keep the iron on the solder with the sucker kind of hovering over the solder and iron, then hit that button when the solder melts still keeping the iron on the solder because as soon as you lift the iron the solder starts to solidify.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • JayCeeJayCee Posts: 610
    edited August 19
    Very cheaply made but I've used this on 5 sets of SDA XO work, binding posts, etc., along w/a solder sucker. Helps position parts, free up your hands and mitigate balancing acts....$4.99 @ Harbor Freight. Kind of an art to using it but it helps.

    image_22585.jpg

    Edit to add.....

    Just saw this on Amazon. A bit more $$$ but looks like a better design:
    ?u=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-na.ssl-images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F41ZbmXUosQL._SL160_.jpg&f=1


    https://www.amazon.com/QuadHands-Soldering-Flexible-Position-Stainless/dp/B00GIKVP5K?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffsb-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00GIKVP5K

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  • VR3VR3 Posts: 23,486
    Or throw the boards away and just do it point to point

    😜
    - Not Tom

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
  • xsmixsmi Posts: 1,427
    VR3 wrote: »
    Or throw the boards away and just do it point to point

    😜

    Elaborate...
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  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 4,395
    xsmi wrote: »

    Elaborate...

    Yes, they can be quite elaborate.

    c18ig3hzhvdp.jpg
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