Monitor 5 crossover mod
Comments
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two good options from different sources, not affiliated:
https://www.partsconnexion.com/CLARITY-81528.html
http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/gen-sonicap-12-uf-200vdc-p-452 -
To the OP....
Take great head in the advice you have been given.
If you want to get BS advice? Keep on keepin' on with your last post. You will get what you pay for, if you will.
The best advice I can give you is that you need to greatly respect what the folks whom have responded to you have said. If you think things are snake oil? Kindly leave the forum, as you will be wasting our time and yours.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
I will gladly and happily leave this forum. Bunch of sanctimonious jerks.
F1 nut - Go to hell you **** hole.
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LMAO at you.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Wow...audio is snake oil, yet he comes to an audio forum for advice ? Is this the same M5's crossover he was asking about like 6 years ago ?HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
I will gladly and happily leave this forum. Bunch of sanctimonious jerks.
Oh boy! I saw this coming. You have to read between the lines.
The fellas in the forum do their best provide free knowledge sparing you time, money and frustration.
It’s not uncommon to see people looking for help and then questioning any offered advice. That’s a bit upsetting...
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Well -- that was interesting.
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Wow...audio is snake oil, yet he comes to an audio forum for advice ? Is this the same M5's crossover he was asking about like 6 years ago ?
You made me look at his post history and you're right, it's pretty much all he's talked about for the last SIX years!!! He PM'd me before posting this thread and I answered all his questions, but I guess he didn't like my answers. Oh well, his loss.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
He obviously doesn't like advice in any form. His loss.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Any way I can bring this thread back?
I just acquired a set of 5B. Polyswitch and SL200.
I know I want to recap, but I am confused about the polyswitch and resistor.
Replace the resistor with a mills in the same range, and jump the polyswitch?
Seems right but I would love some confirmation
Thanks! -
Just to be clear its a single 2ohm 5 watt resistor now and a polyswitch. No fuse.
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You may need to up the resistor to a 2.5 ohm and use 10 or 12 watt resistor. Usually when the polyswitch is removed we use a .5ohm 12watt resistor in its place to make up the resistance of the polyswitch.
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I was just measuring some things and was about to ask if that was correct. Is there a difference in upping the the one or breaking it in to two pieces? Seems like less is more.
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And... while Im learning. What is the skinny on the tweeters. 194 vs 198. I know there is an extra mod but I cant seem to get clear on what happens there. Is it worth it to go to the 194 vs 198?
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If you have good hearing, do the -198 modification.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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alandharper wrote: »And... while Im learning. What is the skinny on the tweeters. 194 vs 198. I know there is an extra mod but I cant seem to get clear on what happens there. Is it worth it to go to the 194 vs 198?
The rd0198 is a darn nice tweeter, but the 194 is no slouch. Depending on how deep your pockets want to get into this, you'll need to change the inductor in both speakers. The schematic is here
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/38755/polk-audio-speaker-wiring-schematics-amp-more-all-models-except-sda#latest
You can study these.
The SL3000 mod or now RD0198 you will need two inductors, two tweeters $60ea. and also need to change one of the quick connectors on the tweeter chassis wire and tweeter inductor on each speaker.
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Well hearing from guitar playing 40+ years is not as good as I would like. I replaced the caps as listed, removed the poly switch and did a 2.7 resistor. Coil over ceramic type. Toned down the tweeter a good bit and they sound dandy to me. I have a pair of SRS 2.3 that are next on the list. Those I will be willing to spend a bit more on. I have to say, as they are they are really really good. Could it be they are still good to go?
