Monitor 5 crossover mod
Hello all,
I’m looking for help modding the x overs in my Monitor 5’s. They are plain 5 not 5B or any other variant.
I have already swapped the old fisheye tweeters for new RDO-198’s. That made a great improvement. Now I would like to upgrade the x overs. Should I remove the poly switch ?
Any help is appreciated.
I’m looking for help modding the x overs in my Monitor 5’s. They are plain 5 not 5B or any other variant.
I have already swapped the old fisheye tweeters for new RDO-198’s. That made a great improvement. Now I would like to upgrade the x overs. Should I remove the poly switch ?
Any help is appreciated.
Comments
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Like I already stated to use the RD0198 you have to match the components on the 5B SL3000 mod schematic, which includes changing the resistor value, adding a 5.8uF cap and changing the value of the tweeter inductor. Otherwise, the RD0198 is the wrong tweeter. The direct replacement for your original SL2000 is the RD0194.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Sorry, I had a brain ****. I installed the 194 tweeters not the 198.
So, what value caps and resistor do I replace the old parts with for my plain Monitor 5’s. Not 5B’s or anything else. Just take one out and note the values. I’m not going to replace inductors, just new caps and resistor. Plus, should I remove the poly switch or let it in circuit ?
Thanks for your help. -
Sorry, I had a brain ****. I installed the 194 tweeters not the 198.
So, what value caps and resistor do I replace the old parts with for my plain Monitor 5’s. Not 5B’s or anything else. Just take one out and note the values. I’m not going to replace inductors, just new caps and resistor. Plus, should I remove the poly switch or let it in circuit ?
Thanks for your help.
How about opening them up and physically looking at the values on the components in the crossover? How about that for a wonderful idea?
Yes if i was doing it I'd remove the polyswitch and replace either with a .5 ohm 12 watt vishay-mills resistor or up the tweeter circuit resistor by a half ohm and jump the polyswitch circuit with wire. -
Ok,
I already have on hand new 12uf and 33uf 400v caps and mills 2.5 ohm 12 w resistors.
I think these values are right for the Monitor 5, correct ?
For the resistor is the new 2.5 ohm to replace the old tweeter resistor and keep the poly switch, or do I use the 2.5 ohm in place of the poly switch and keep the original tweeter resistor ? I don’t want to go nuts on this project. Just a simple upgrade. I got the speakers free and don’t need to sink a lot of money in them.
Thanks ! -
Those 400v caps are HUGE and will be a PITA to mount. Looking at the schematic that 2.5ohm resistor should work but you will need to jump the polyswitch location with wire since you will have nothing there without polyswitch.
https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/4/6/7/2/8/18766.pdf
you need to look inside at YOUR crossover and get the values you have on YOUR speakers. I'm fairly certain the link I posted is VERY close if not the same. Since we do not have a schematic available to us for the "plain" 5 you'll need to compare. I feel that only difference between 5 and 5b will be the polyswitch was added to 5b and resistors were changed to accommodate the switch. Do yours have fuses for tweeter protection?
Once again you can ask all day about what you need but the only sure fire way is to physically look at yours and get the values in yours and then we will have more to go off of to help you better. -
You need to replace the polyswitch with a .5ohm mills resistor, you wouldn’t regret!
I had fun when I recaped mine... used 12uf and 33uf caps, replaced the tweeter as well. If it was now I would use mills instead Mundorf resistors, but they came out nice.
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Hey, all thanks for the info !
This weekend I’m going to take the x overs out and take a look see.
I think the tweeter uses the 2.5 ohm mills and assuming mine have the polyswitch I guess I’ll need to get two .5 mills.
What wattage rating on the .5 ohm ? 12 like the 2.5 ohm ?
Thanks for the photos !
I’ll post what I find out and start getting to work. -
Cortico,
Did you hear an easily heard improvement after your x over mod ?
Nice workmanship. Are they black slim ferrite beads or just heat shrink tubing on the speaker leads ? -
Pitdogg2,
Sorry , I see 12 watts on the .5 resistor.
Reading to fast ! -
Regarding the poly switch, not sure your has one. I had a few different M5 and they were all different, it could have a fuse instead.
However, if you see one, replace it. They gain resistance after triggered affecting the tweeter response. Some people jump it it a wire, others like me prefer the resistor because it mellows out the highs .5 ohms seems to be the ticket... a small ohm fraction up or down will do big difference.
Much better sound after mod, replaced the tweeters, caps, resistors, new internal wiring and the woofer and passive radiator gaskets (the rolled black thin neoprene stripe)... also moved the polyfill up so only sits behind tweeter and woofer
Really liked the sound of them when coupled with 70’s Marantz amp Pioneer amps. -
These were the crossover on my M5:
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Sorry, double post
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Ok guys,
I checked my x overs and the tweeter resistor is 2 ohm 5 watt , 12 uf and 34 uf 50 v caps and it has the polyswitch if thats a small blue thin rectangle with two leads.
Now, Can I use the parts I have ? 12uf 400 v and 33 uf 400 v caps and 2.5 ohm 12 watt mills resistors. Can I leave the polyswitch in circuit ? Or , can I take it out and install a jumper across the leads ? Or, do I have to remove the polyswitch and install a .5 ohm 12 watt mills resistor in its place ? I have installed new 194 tweeters.
I’m not looking for the nth degree of fidelity here. Some parts I have don’t match the original values exactly. But are they close enough ? I’m only using these on the porch in the summer and got them free.
Thanks ! -
I would’t worry with the caps, the 33uf is good. The 2.5 ohm resistor is actually be good, this allows you to replace the polyswitch with a jumper, the extra .5ohm compensate the switch load....
What caps are you using? People here find that sonicap and clarity are a good fit -
Thanks Cortico,
Now to work ! -
Just to confirm.... Take polyswitch out and jump the circuit with a piece of wire or part of one of the caps leads you trim off AFTER soldering the cap in place.
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Ok, on the jumping. I’ll probably used double sided sticky pads and cable ties like Cortico to mount the big caps. Is it ok to use hot glue on the caps ? If not then epoxy should hold them.
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Do not use epoxy. Hot glue is fine.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Don't hot glue resistors or double sided tape. I personally like to keep them about an 1/8th of an inch off the board for a little circulation.
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Right, I know to keep resistors off the board for cooling. Ok on no epoxy on the caps, hot glue ok.
Thanks again all you guys for the info.
I’ll get to work as soon as all the other more important tasks at home are addressed. ie honey doos.
Cheers ! -
Cortico,
I have Solens, it seems reading here they aren’t thought of too highly but it’s what I have and in they go. -
Got to be better then the OEM’s.
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Solens work well in the low pass but they hurt my ears in a high pass. For me they seem squelchy.
Yep they should be better than wore out electro's -
No sweat! It’s your firsts project, use what you got. You can always revisit later... I have done that many times, it would save me time if I heard what folks here recommended in first place
As pitdogg2 said, It’s better than the 40 years old electrolyte, besides that you got the tweeter, mills resistor and you’ll get rid of the poly switch... -
From what I’ve read on other forums Mundorf supremes are a well liked x over cap.
I don’t want to start a whole new topic here on cap reviews, but like Cortico said I can always upgrade later if I feel the need and want to spend the bucks. -
Mundorf has a bit of a tipped up treble, but a lot of depth overall. I don't care for them in crossovers. However, their power supply caps are stellar.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
At the risk of starting a something here, what is your overall pick for x over caps for the monitor 5 in a reasonable price like $20 - $40 each ?
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Also, in spending that much is the average Joe really going to hear an improvement over my humble Solens ? IMHO a lot of audio gear is snake oil. ie - wooden speaker cable lifts, come on !
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On a different slant, was Sandy Gross involved in the Monitor 5 ? Or even Matthew Polk ? I think it’s a wonderful sounding speaker for a simple box with 2 drivers and a passive radiator !
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Also, in spending that much is the average Joe really going to hear an improvement over my humble Solens ? IMHO a lot of audio gear is snake oil. ie - wooden speaker cable lifts, come on !
Pull your head out of where the sun doesn't shine, you'll hear better.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
