Polk SDA-1A Cabinet Refurbish HELP!

I have a pair of 1As and the pervious owner wasn’t nice to the cabinets. They sound great, but the base of each look terrible and the veneer is chipping. My thoughts were to take on a refurbish project and replace the veneer, but I cannot seem to find any info on the forum. More than likely I suck at searching but for some reason I come up empty. Any help or info would be appreciated!

Comments

  • JayMXJayMX Posts: 216
    I had a similar situation with a pair I just refurbished with ash veneer. The bases were completely wrecked. So I opted to remove them completely and just install leveling feet into the base of the cabinet. There are a few pics here:
    JayMX wrote: »
    Finally finished with these. Grille cloth has been replaced with the jet black from Speakerworks @Toolfan66 recommended. Great stuff! Was quite a journey. Up for sale. If anyone is interested PM me. Probably not worth it to ship, but I do travel from Salt Lake City to Boise Idaho or south to Las Vegas from time to time.

    Thanks to all for your help and suggestions!
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    Upstairs 5.1.2:
    Marantz NR1607 + Marantz 1060, L/R - Modified Monitor 7C (194’s, Dynamat, Sonicaps, Mills, H-nuts), Center - Yamaha NS-C310, Surrounds/height/Atmos - (4x) Proficient in-ceiling, Sub - RBH TS10AN, Marantz DV7600

    Downstairs 7.1.4:
    Marantz SR6011, L/R Snell E.5MKII, Center - RBH 700-CX, Surrounds - Monitor 5a (Peerless), Surround Back - Monitor 4a (Peerless), Height/Atmos - (4x) Polk RC60i, Sub - Klipsch RSW12, Oppo BDP-95

    2CH: Kenwood KA-8150, Adcom GFA 555, L/R - SDA SRS 2, SDA CRS+, RTA12C (194's), Klipsch KG4 with Crites upgrades

    Office:
    Teac A-H500, PD-H500
    Monitor 4b (Peerless)

    Spares:
    Monitor 7b (Peerless), Monitor 5b (SL2000)

    Repair pile: SRS 3.1TL’s, JBL 4301’s
    ...and more to come, it’s a sickness.
  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 69
    JayMX wrote: »
    I had a similar situation with a pair I just refurbished with ash veneer. The bases were completely wrecked. So I opted to remove them completely and just install leveling feet into the base of the cabinet. There are a few pics here:
    JayMX wrote: »
    Finally finished with these. Grille cloth has been replaced with the jet black from Speakerworks @Toolfan66 recommended. Great stuff! Was quite a journey. Up for sale. If anyone is interested PM me. Probably not worth it to ship, but I do travel from Salt Lake City to Boise Idaho or south to Las Vegas from time to time.

    Thanks to all for your help and suggestions!
    xtgavttz6rxh.jpeg
    v6k8hppwlr5q.jpeg
    gm2yy4usppk0.jpeg
    lgs8nxnbm1mh.jpeg
    orqgjyddoxrs.jpeg
    lltjsl33hywi.jpeg
    zhycua4s7obd.jpeg
    qlmtpktxwtgx.jpeg
    z7evtz6xc5hu.jpeg

    Those look great! That’s what I’m looking at doing is pulling the veneer sanding down and re applying new veneer. Where did you get the veneer? Any tips/tricks? Any tutorials?
  • JayMXJayMX Posts: 216
    I get my veneer from MacBeath because they’re local, but they have several locations and they ship:
    https://www.macbeath.com/products/108234-veneer

    You can look over a couple of the veneering projects I’ve posted here:
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/177885/monitor-7-refresh
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/181226/making-monitor-10s-great-again
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/183831/sda1b-or-early-c-opinions

    The process is pretty simple. Detailed in the threads above. I use contact cement on the surfaces of the cabinet and the veneer with good results. Others have used veneer with adhesive backing. Use dowels to hold the veneer off the surface as you adhere. Use a roller to squish it all together, then lots of weight for 24 hours to ensure a good bond. Also I learned the hard way that it has to be warm in the space where you’re working. I did some pieces at 50degs F and they didn’t laminate well, no matter how much weight I put on them. I purchased a smaller trimming router which works better/is less cumbersome for the tight spaces (inside driver and port openings).

    Very fun and rewarding. Pm me if you have any questions! Happy to help!
    Upstairs 5.1.2:
    Marantz NR1607 + Marantz 1060, L/R - Modified Monitor 7C (194’s, Dynamat, Sonicaps, Mills, H-nuts), Center - Yamaha NS-C310, Surrounds/height/Atmos - (4x) Proficient in-ceiling, Sub - RBH TS10AN, Marantz DV7600

    Downstairs 7.1.4:
    Marantz SR6011, L/R Snell E.5MKII, Center - RBH 700-CX, Surrounds - Monitor 5a (Peerless), Surround Back - Monitor 4a (Peerless), Height/Atmos - (4x) Polk RC60i, Sub - Klipsch RSW12, Oppo BDP-95

    2CH: Kenwood KA-8150, Adcom GFA 555, L/R - SDA SRS 2, SDA CRS+, RTA12C (194's), Klipsch KG4 with Crites upgrades

    Office:
    Teac A-H500, PD-H500
    Monitor 4b (Peerless)

    Spares:
    Monitor 7b (Peerless), Monitor 5b (SL2000)

    Repair pile: SRS 3.1TL’s, JBL 4301’s
    ...and more to come, it’s a sickness.
  • BlueBirdMusicBlueBirdMusic Registered User Posts: 555
    edited May 28
    I didn't see your earlier thread. Those look amazing. I would have never thought ash would that great. Thanks for posting again.

    Your work is impeccable!!

    I returned to the original thread and I did see part of it - the KG4 part evidently.
    Post edited by BlueBirdMusic on
  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 69
    edited June 6
    Little bit of the progress photos

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  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 69
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  • FaustinFaustin Posts: 877
    Go, go, go, goooooo! You should be able to remove the lower "kick plate" to make it easier to work on. I think "IIRC" it is screwed in from the inside of the cabinet. Once done, I am sure you will be glad you went through all of the work.
  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 69
    Faustin wrote: »
    Go, go, go, goooooo! You should be able to remove the lower "kick plate" to make it easier to work on. I think "IIRC" it is screwed in from the inside of the cabinet. Once done, I am sure you will be glad you went through all of the work.


    I’ll have to look into that. I was wondering how it came off. I was going to rebuild the bottoms as well and put a run of felt along the bottom for sound deadening attempts
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,939
    Felt.....no. Put spikes on the bottom.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 69
    F1nut wrote: »
    Felt.....no. Put spikes on the bottom.

    They are currently on wood floors. Will spikes damage the flooring?

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,939
    Use spike floor discs.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 69
    edited June 6
    @F1nut ok ill look into it! @pitdogg2 @Schurkey On the cross over aspect.. I am going with the Clarity PX capacitors. I cannot seem to find the 27 micro farad capacitor required. Any idea where to find these?
  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 69
    ok so that was my next question. it doesnt matter to mix capacitor brands? As long as the values are the same?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,939
    Try Sonicap, they have every value you need and sound great.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • verbverb Posts: 6,586
    Looking good @Joshwest90 making great progress! You are inspiring me to get off my arse and finish a 1C project that has been idle for some time now! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: , Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 69
    verb wrote: »
    Looking good @Joshwest90 making great progress! You are inspiring me to get off my arse and finish a 1C project that has been idle for some time now! :smile:

    Thank you @verb!!

    @pitdogg2 @F1nut @Schurkey @Faustin @JayMX

    For the caps I went with Clarity PX except for the big 27mfd I went with Jantzen Audio

    For the resistors I went with Mills MRA-12

    I plan on removing the two polyswitch and putting a 0.5ohm resistor in its place.

    Looking into the dimensional tweeter removal is where I have a question. From what I read, the dimensional tweeter is the outermost tweeter. If that is removed is there a sticky somewhere that described this process? I was considering doing so because removing one from each speaker would allow me to upgrade to the RD0194 from Polk. My fiancé won’t notice 80.00 or say much about that but 160 she would haha. Is there a huge difference removing the dimensional tweeter and going with the upgraded tweeter?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,939
    Disconnect the lead wires and secure the ends so the don't short out. Done.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • FaustinFaustin Posts: 877
    Just leave whatever tweeter you currently have installed in the speaker, and as F1nut said just disconnect it and secure the ends.
  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 69
    Faustin wrote: »
    Just leave whatever tweeter you currently have installed in the speaker, and as F1nut said just disconnect it and secure the ends.
    F1nut wrote: »
    Disconnect the lead wires and secure the ends so the don't short out. Done.

    Ok so there is no need to adjust the circuitry for it then?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,939
    No
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,875
    edited June 9
    Joshwest90 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Disconnect the lead wires and secure the ends so the don't short out. Done.

    Ok so there is no need to adjust the circuitry for it then?
    There's also no need to buy new caps and resistors for the SDA tweeter section of the crossover.

    In fact, if you just removed the polyswitch for the SDA tweeter, DON'T put a jumper in it's place, the shunt to ground for the SDA tweeter doesn't bleed off power, and the impedance of the speaker goes up just a little.

  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 69
    Question: while going through all of this it made me stop and question. If they call for a 27 mFd Capacitor and someone used a 25 mfd or a 30 mfd what would happen. I don’t understand what the Capacitor changes.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,939
    It would alter the frequency response. Basically, throw the sound off.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 69
    F1nut wrote: »
    It would alter the frequency response. Basically, throw the sound off.

    Has anyone ever attempted to play with these crossovers to see if changing Capacitor size would make a difference?

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,939
    I'm sure someone, somewhere has. There's no question that changing the value of a component will alter the sound. That you can take to the bank.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,346
    Joshwest90 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    It would alter the frequency response. Basically, throw the sound off.

    Has anyone ever attempted to play with these crossovers to see if changing Capacitor size would make a difference?

    The guys that designed these forgot what most of us know. They were/are pretty smart. If you can't find a 27uf, use a 12uf and a 15uf in parallel.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
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