Speaker identity???
ultrasoudproductions
Posts: 118
in Speakers
Comments
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RTA-11tl with a replaced (albeit wrong) top driver. The "tl" version had a flap on top of the tweeter (SL-3000) which these do not have. So..., it could be a chop job. It looks like they've had a rough life...Remember, when you're running from something, you're running to something...-me
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Those look nice & have alot of potential. Pull the drivers & see what they are & Loctite them for future shifting issues. You could upgrade the tweeters if you decide to keep them. Alot of people here would love to have them..
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https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/38755/polk-audio-speaker-wiring-schematics-amp-more-all-models-except-sda#latest.... Make sure you get the correct RTA11 model you have. There was also the Monitor 11 which some called RTA11s also. I could never understand that as i have owned the Monitor 11 speakers..
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I found this a good read also.. https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/45560/rta11tl-specs..
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RTA-11tl with a replaced (albeit wrong) top driver. The "tl" version had a flap on top of the tweeter (SL-3000) which these do not have. So..., it could be a chop job. It looks like they've had a rough life...
Looks like the flap is still there, albeit cut off. -
boston1450 wrote: ».... Loctite them for future shifting issues.
I can imagine what you are talking about here but would you please expand on it a little. How to you Loctite them.... how to apply, how much. Is there an existing thread on this. I have used a dab of expoy before, but never Loctite.
Thanks! -
Search "power grab" and there are many threads on this and other material options.
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boston1450 wrote: ».... Loctite them for future shifting issues.
I can imagine what you are talking about here but would you please expand on it a little. How to you Loctite them.... how to apply, how much. Is there an existing thread on this. I have used a dab of expoy before, but never Loctite.
Thanks!
Many people move speakers in transit or in the house. One slight drop & the speaker magnet shifts Because the old glue is aged that is holding the magnet in place.. Under 5.00 it cost to help this not happen..... Take your 2 top MW speaker out on each cabinet. Put a bead of Loctite on each side of the magnet to help prevent the magnet from shifting. Each speaker should have a date on them & MWxxxx # on them........ If the stock gasket around the speakers are ok-then go ahead & reuse it when putting speakers back to cabinet...... Once done with speakers back in cabinet. Lightly push in & hold the bottom Passive you should notice the top 2 speakers come out. They should stay out at least 3-5 seconds. This checks for air leaks. If it doesnt stay out Ya got a leakPost edited by boston1450 on.. -
Its fun to get to know your speakers by doing this you get a idea how old they are. Maintaining magnet shifting issues that CAN/WILL happen with these old speakers. Making sure you have the correct speakers ( people have put any MW that fits in them ).... Lightly snug all screws on EVERYTHING including cup on rear. So the sealed cabinet is sealed. Report back. Enjoy..
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Thanks boston1450. Figured the procedure was about the same as with epoxy.
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Your very welcome. Enjoy those speakers. If you ever decide to upgrade those tweeters you will not regret it. I have the bigger RTA's the 15tl's & did it. Best upgrade money can buy. Polk may still have them & Polk Forum members get discount last i knew. Enjoy
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I brought WAYYYY worse condition RTA11TL back in working and good cosmetic order. 2 shifted drivers, missing tweeters, got them all replaced, sealed up and even found perfect intact grills.
Good speakers worth the time.
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