Got a set of battery powered Audioquest speaker cables
afterburnt
Posts: 7,892
Can't try em out for a while. Anyone try the CV4? I think that's what they are?
Comments
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I will refrain from commenting. I have. I know. They do have staying power.
Do your own observations and don't rely on others backing your own findings...
If I am off base? Shoot Russ.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Ok where's Russ ???
PULL! -
Anyone had direct experience with these vs type 4?
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joecoulson wrote: »Anyone had direct experience with these vs type 4?
I have not but all the DBS cables are several steps above type 4 with better wire in most cases. -
Worth it for the price?
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@joecoulson I got em for a lot less, that's why I got em lol. They are for my other house, whenever I get there.
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Where??
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Joe, no.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Ok. I’ll wait til you guys come out to change anything there.
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joecoulson wrote: »Where??
Same place for $180 -
Oh GOD not ANOTHER cable thread
Gentlemen, start your arguments!Post edited by honestaquarian on -
@honestaquarian so be it, all I need is cables of all sorts now.
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The benefit from the Battery is to keep the cable broken in. If you use your system a lot I see no reason for the battery at all. If you listen once a week or less then the battery just buffers the break in period which happens amazingly fast.
I'm a audioquest user and have been for decades but there are things they do that I'm not on board with. Maybe in some cases this is a benefit but it's not for me.
The CV-4 and the Type-4 as stated sound almost exactly the same. Pretty hard to tell them apart. The CV series is a higher end better quality conductor and if your system can reveal the slight difference you will hear it. The Type -4 is a good speaker cable in it's own right.Dan
My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time. -
I don't think the DBS is designed to help just in cases of infrequent use. From AQ's description on Music Direct:Dielectric Bias System (DBS) - DBS is an Audioquest patented system which does some pretty extraordinary things to the electrical properties of the cable yet operates completely outside the signal path. DBS simultaneously eliminates the “Dielectric Effect” as well as external interference.
The Dielectric Effect, simply put, is a form of phase distortion caused by the tendency of insulation material to randomly and unpredictably absorb and then release the electrical energy passing through the conductors. This causes smearing of fine detail and distortion of tonal balance. DBS eliminates this distortion by using a high voltage potential from the battery packs to electrically saturate the insulating material. The difference is shocking (pardon the pun), bass extends deeper, voices become fleshed out and every instrument achieves a truly jaw-dropping level of realism. While the positive pole of the DBS pack creates the high-voltage potential inside the cable, the negative pole of the DBS pack is connected to a shield which runs the length of the cable, creating a virtual vacuum for external interference; energy that strikes this shield is instantly and completely drained into the negative portion of the battery creating ultra-black backgrounds, greatly enhancing resolution and dynamic range. The best part is that because the batteries are simply creating potential not current flow, they will last 3-5 years; about as long as they would if they were sitting on a shelf.
@DarqueKnight talked a bit about this dielectric effect somewhere recently. I have no idea how effective DBS is, if at all, but I do like the sound from the set of CV-8's that I have used for HT purposes. The batteries seem to last forever, but keeping the battery packs secured to the cable can be a challenge if/when you move cables around. They seem to slip out of their velcro loops pretty easily. Like you, I got for much less than retail. So on an overall value basis, I like them.
Let us know what you think.
b]Beach Audio[/b]: Rega RP6 (mods) - AT33PTG/II - Parks Budgie SUT - PSAudio NPC * Eversolo DMP-A6 * Topping D90iii * Joule-Electra LA-100 mkIII * Pass Aleph 30 * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 2.3tl (mods) * PSAudio PPP3
Beach Study: Pro-Ject Stream Box S2 Ultra & Pre Box S2 * Pass ACA * DH Labs SS Q10 * Brines Folded ML-TQWT RS 40-1354 * PSA Dectet
Beach Master: WiiM Pro * Dayens Menuetto * Zu Libtec * Dynaudio Audience 50
Beach Den: Bluesound Powernode 2i * DH Labs SS Q10 * Zu Omen DWII * Richard Gray RGPC
Town Study: WiiM Pro * Chord Qute (Pardo) * Elekit TU-8600 * MIT S3 * Revel M22 * Beyer DT-990 * Shunyata Hydra 2
Town Den: Music Hall mm5.1se - Denon DL-103r - Jolida JD9ii (mods) * WiiM Pro * Cary xCiter * Rogue 99 Magnum * Schiit Aegir * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 1.2tl (mods) * Dectet * Bottlehead Crack - Senn 600
Town Porch: WiiM Pro Plus * Sunfire Sig II * Canare 4S11 * Magnepan 1.6 * Dectet -
battery powered may be misstating things a bit, no?
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So @mantis and @vcwatkins are actually both right.
Cable break-in is largely a case of dielectric conditioning."Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."
"Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip -
I forgot to mention the bananas - I think they're called SureGrip - that are on my CV-8's. I'm pretty sure I am in the minority around here not liking this type. They are springy and I believe designed to maximize contact. But I always have trouble with one or two when plugging/unplugging on certain speakers. They have to be at just the right angle and if I'm doing this blind or semi-blind, I usually end up cursing who or whatever is nearby. I even broke one somehow. I think it must have been bent by pressure on the cable at the amp as I rolled the rack back toward the wall. I didn't notice a problem until I lost all sound from the center, investigated, and found it had completely separated.
They're definitely better than many bananas that are too small and cannot be made wider/tighter. So if your CV-4's have them, I'd recommend you take a little extra care and be patient (at least more patient than I, which is likely not hard to do, hehe).b]Beach Audio[/b]: Rega RP6 (mods) - AT33PTG/II - Parks Budgie SUT - PSAudio NPC * Eversolo DMP-A6 * Topping D90iii * Joule-Electra LA-100 mkIII * Pass Aleph 30 * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 2.3tl (mods) * PSAudio PPP3
Beach Study: Pro-Ject Stream Box S2 Ultra & Pre Box S2 * Pass ACA * DH Labs SS Q10 * Brines Folded ML-TQWT RS 40-1354 * PSA Dectet
Beach Master: WiiM Pro * Dayens Menuetto * Zu Libtec * Dynaudio Audience 50
Beach Den: Bluesound Powernode 2i * DH Labs SS Q10 * Zu Omen DWII * Richard Gray RGPC
Town Study: WiiM Pro * Chord Qute (Pardo) * Elekit TU-8600 * MIT S3 * Revel M22 * Beyer DT-990 * Shunyata Hydra 2
Town Den: Music Hall mm5.1se - Denon DL-103r - Jolida JD9ii (mods) * WiiM Pro * Cary xCiter * Rogue 99 Magnum * Schiit Aegir * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 1.2tl (mods) * Dectet * Bottlehead Crack - Senn 600
Town Porch: WiiM Pro Plus * Sunfire Sig II * Canare 4S11 * Magnepan 1.6 * Dectet -
@vcwatkins I am gonna use deoxit liquid if that will help and is good on sliver plate. Whadda ya think?
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one of those gold and silver cleaning rags works wonders Bruce. They are sold in just about any Target, Wal-Mart or Kohls type store at the jewelry counter. By the way silver tarnish I understand does not affect conductivity like say copper tarnish.
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A silver cleaning cloth (polish imbedded) is best as you don’t have to worry about fluid getting inside the banana clip
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[In my best Don Adams as Maxwell Smart voice]I forgot to mention the bananas...They always forget to mention the bananas...
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https://youtu.be/PDd8shcLvHI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGldNpngDws