What did you do to your stereo rig today?

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  • phipiper10
    phipiper10 Posts: 955
    Replaced Graham Slee Accession phono, which I have through their demo program, with Rega Aria. Happier!

    Also Verb's earlier EMI demo got me to get a meter of my own so ....a lot of plugging and unplugging and also Nirvana's MTV unplugged on vinyl!
    Analog Source: Rega P3-24 Exact 2 w/GT delrin platter & Neo TT-PSU Digital Source: Lumin T2 w/Roon (NUC) DAC: Denafrips Pontus II Phono Preamp: Rega Aria MK3 Preamp: Rogue RP-7 Amp: Pass X150.8 Speakers: Joseph Audio Perspective 2, Audio Physic Tempo Plus Cables: Morrow M4 ICs & Audio Art SC-5 ePlus, Shunyata PCs Misc: Shunyata Hydra Delta D6, VTI rack, GIK acoustic panels
  • Nice job on the Aria @phipiper10. I love mine.
    Rega Planar 8, Apheta 3 MC , Aria mk2 Phono
    Aurender n100h, Benchmark DAC2 HGC
    Arcam SR250, Parasound JC5
    Revel F208, SVS SB-4000
  • phipiper10
    phipiper10 Posts: 955
    Thanks @guyincognito what is the rest of your rig?

    I was planning to demo a Gold Note the GS and Aria. The dealer sold his demo Gold Note and said it was slow getting new units to the US so never hear the ph10. I found what I thought was a decent deal on a used MK2 from an authorized dealer but was told for only $50 more I could get a new MK3. I don’t think there is anything more than a facelift however but was worth the extra $50 to me to be new with original, packaging and paperwork.
    Analog Source: Rega P3-24 Exact 2 w/GT delrin platter & Neo TT-PSU Digital Source: Lumin T2 w/Roon (NUC) DAC: Denafrips Pontus II Phono Preamp: Rega Aria MK3 Preamp: Rogue RP-7 Amp: Pass X150.8 Speakers: Joseph Audio Perspective 2, Audio Physic Tempo Plus Cables: Morrow M4 ICs & Audio Art SC-5 ePlus, Shunyata PCs Misc: Shunyata Hydra Delta D6, VTI rack, GIK acoustic panels
  • @phipiper10, "for only $50 more I could get a new MK3"... this sounds very similar to how I ended up with my Planar 8. Hard to turn down NIB/full warranty for only a little extra coin up front. It is also my understanding that the mk3 Aria was just a cosmetic casework change. I bought my mk2 used off Agon and it was a big improvement from the fono MC it replaced.

    Currently, my TT rig is a new model Planar 8, Apheta 3 MC cart and the mk2 Aria phono stage. I am very happy with how everything sounds and finally feel like I am done with the TT tweaks and upgrades.
    Rega Planar 8, Apheta 3 MC , Aria mk2 Phono
    Aurender n100h, Benchmark DAC2 HGC
    Arcam SR250, Parasound JC5
    Revel F208, SVS SB-4000
  • phipiper10
    phipiper10 Posts: 955
    edited March 2021

    Currently, my TT rig is a new model Planar 8, Apheta 3 MC cart and the mk2 Aria phono stage. I am very happy with how everything sounds and finally feel like I am done with the TT tweaks and upgrades.

    Was just looking at the P8 this morning and checking some threads on Apheta 3 vs Ania carts. Hmm...
    Analog Source: Rega P3-24 Exact 2 w/GT delrin platter & Neo TT-PSU Digital Source: Lumin T2 w/Roon (NUC) DAC: Denafrips Pontus II Phono Preamp: Rega Aria MK3 Preamp: Rogue RP-7 Amp: Pass X150.8 Speakers: Joseph Audio Perspective 2, Audio Physic Tempo Plus Cables: Morrow M4 ICs & Audio Art SC-5 ePlus, Shunyata PCs Misc: Shunyata Hydra Delta D6, VTI rack, GIK acoustic panels
  • I had the original Ania prior to the Apheta 3 and the Apheta is a much better cartridge (as it should be for the cost increase). I really think a lot of it comes down to the stylus profile. The blunt stylus shape on the Ania causes it to pick up more surface noise on records and while it tracks pretty well, my Apheta is much less likely to skip on records with imperfections. The Apheta rides deeper in the groove with its "fine line" stylus profile and is more detailed than the Ania was.

    That being said, the new Ania Pro with its improved stylus profile is an interesting option for someone that doesn't want to spend Apheta 3 money. My Dad has a new model Planar 6, Aria mk3 and he just recently traded in his Ania for an Ania Pro and he seems very content. We live several states apart so I haven't been able to hear it yet unfortunately.
    Rega Planar 8, Apheta 3 MC , Aria mk2 Phono
    Aurender n100h, Benchmark DAC2 HGC
    Arcam SR250, Parasound JC5
    Revel F208, SVS SB-4000
  • bhenmia0
    bhenmia0 Posts: 2
    Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner get-mobdro.com

    Regards, tubemate
  • TEAforONE
    TEAforONE Posts: 1,026
    Spam alert! Nice gear for a spammer!
    See my profile for list of gear.
  • TEAforONE
    TEAforONE Posts: 1,026
    I'm in the process of working out a deal for a used First Watt J2. This will be rotated in the main system with a FW F5. Fingers crossed.
    See my profile for list of gear.
  • TEAforONE
    TEAforONE Posts: 1,026
    Well, I have received the J2! It is absolutely wonderful. (To my ears) To me,it lives up to all the high praise this amp has received online. The F5 now resides in the Pit. At some point I may swap,and run the J2 in the pit.
    See my profile for list of gear.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    @halo
    What are those white things in front of your stand and what do they do?

    Thnx Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    @halo
    What are those white things in front of your stand and what do they do?

    Thnx Tony
    Cat scratching posts that lye flat or can be mounted on a wall. We have a vertical scratching post that has a very large base with two of the posts joined together. Trying real hard to keep the kitten away from the speaker grills.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315

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    Congrats Victor on the return of your speakers. My first dedicated Two Channel Tube Amplifier was the TAD-60, should have never sold it.
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616

    Congrats Victor on the return of your speakers. My first dedicated Two Channel Tube Amplifier was the TAD-60, should have never sold it.
    Paul was onto something. I went all-in with the InnerSound/Sanders Sound Systems speakers and solid-state amps after the TAD-60 amplifiers and the VR-2 speakers (I held onto the VTL 2.5 preamp until I got out of the hobby).
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • TEAforONE
    TEAforONE Posts: 1,026
    I just brought the First Watt J2 and put it into the system in the Pit. The first disclaimer is I do not listen loud. I’m at about 74db at about 7 ft from the speakers. The J2 is paired with a TVC passive pre,driving a pair of Graham Chartwell LS3/5’s. These are an easy load,but not a very sensitive speaker. I just pulled the F5 out and swapped in the J2. The first thing I noticed right out of the gate is a taller soundstage,and there is definitely more separation of instruments. I’m sure things will settle in once the J2 hits operating temperature. The F5 runs warm for sure. The J2, hot as a tin roof in August! This amp should definitely NOT be placed in a cabinet. IT GETS HOT! But the sound! Did I mention the sound?? Tonality wise, the F5 and J2 are very similar. The F5 might show a little more detail,but the soundstage winner is the J2.

    I’ll update again as I get more saddle time here in the pit.
    See my profile for list of gear.
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,895
    edited March 2021
    TEAforONE wrote: »
    I just brought the First Watt J2 and put it into the system in the Pit. The first disclaimer is I do not listen loud. I’m at about 74db at about 7 ft from the speakers. The J2 is paired with a TVC passive pre,driving a pair of Graham Chartwell LS3/5’s. These are an easy load,but not a very sensitive speaker. I just pulled the F5 out and swapped in the J2. The first thing I noticed right out of the gate is a taller soundstage,and there is definitely more separation of instruments. I’m sure things will settle in once the J2 hits operating temperature. The F5 runs warm for sure. The J2, hot as a tin roof in August! This amp should definitely NOT be placed in a cabinet. IT GETS HOT! But the sound! Did I mention the sound?? Tonality wise, the F5 and J2 are very similar. The F5 might show a little more detail,but the soundstage winner is the J2.

    I’ll update again as I get more saddle time here in the pit.

    Are those 15 ohm EDIT 12 ohm LS3/5a? I am guessing that they are(?).
    The BBC 'white paper' on the LS3/5a specification, FWIW: http://downloads.bbc.co.uk/rd/pubs/reports/1976-29.pdf

  • TEAforONE
    TEAforONE Posts: 1,026
    Hey Doc,
    They are 9ohm.They are the LS3/5. No A on the end. These aren’t the vintage version. They were made in 2015. The J2 plays well with an 8ohm load. Some weird specs. 25 watts into 8ohms,13 watts into 4ohms. The amp has no issues with my Hornshoppe Great Horned Heils. So far, no issues with the Graham Chartwells. It’s been fired up for about an hour and a half,and it is toasty! Next test,I will put the Nola Boxer 2’s in there.
    See my profile for list of gear.
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,895
    ahh, I see.
    The specs on the amp reflect its output impedance, I reckon.
    Most amplifiers are happier with higher impedance loads, though, if they get a choice about it.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    TEAforONE wrote: »
    Some weird specs. 25 watts into 8ohms,13 watts into 4ohms.
    behaves more like a current source. Most amps behave more like a voltage source

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,373
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    TEAforONE wrote: »
    Some weird specs. 25 watts into 8ohms,13 watts into 4ohms.
    behaves more like a current source. Most amps behave more like a voltage source

    Sounds more like that is class A watts. Usually class A watts are half as much when you half impedence.
  • TEAforONE
    TEAforONE Posts: 1,026
    J2 Power Amplifier

    The J2 is a stereo power amplifier rated at 25 watts per channel. It has a two-stage circuit that operates in pure single-ended Class A mode, with signal JFET devices forming the input stage and power JFET devices for the output stage.

    JFET transistors have long been recognized as having the highest audio quality of any transistor; the input devices of the J2 are known through the industry as the standard for low noise and linearity, and are found on the inputs of the finest phono stages, line level preamplifiers, and power amplifiers.

    But for over 30 years robust power JFETs have not been widely available since the short-lived efforts of Sony and Yamaha. In the last few months, advances in Silicon Carbide (SiC) technology have resulted in new power JFET transistors with high voltage, current, and power capabilities – as high as 1200 volts, 30 amps, and 273 watts.

    Created by SemiSouth Corporation of Mississippi, these robust new JFETs are designed for very fast high power switching in solar power and electric car applications. However, they also have a very low distortion characteristic that makes them superb for use in linear amplifiers. In apples-to-apples comparisons with comparable MOSFET type power transistors, they can achieve 10 to 20 dB improvements in distortion performance.

    For over 10 years First Watt has been pushing the design envelope with simple high performance Class A amplifier circuits, and when a better transistor like this comes along, it can mean getting the same distortion performance with a lot less feedback, or lower distortion with the same amount of feedback. The J2 does amplifier does both,and that helps make it a better sounding amplifier than the best of its predecessors.

    With a device that behaves a little like a tube, it is natural to consider popular tube amplifier design topologies. Single-Ended Class A tube amplifiers are not very powerful, and their measurement numbers are not exceptional, but there is no arguing that they have strong musical appeal to much of the audiophile population. The J2 amplifier uses a classic JFET differential input stage followed by a single power JFET transistor. This power JFET is biased by another JFET in what is known in tube circles as a “mu follower”.

    Here is a slightly simplified schematic of the J2 circuit. It could be a classic tube amp, except that the P channel input JFETs would have to be fabricated from anti-matter. The single-ended Class A output stage is “second harmonic” in character, and it uses about half the feedback of a comparable MOSFET circuit but with half the distortion and twice the bandwidth.





    The J2 power amplifier is simple, clean, and measures astonishingly well. It achieves a sound which is warm and relaxed, combining precision and detail without sterility. With a pair of sensibly efficient loudspeakers, it will give you a toe-tapping experience that other solid state amplifiers do not. The design is extremely reliable and will never need adjustment.

    Download: J2 Manual

    I copied and pasted right from the First Watt site.
    See my profile for list of gear.
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,895
    edited March 2021
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    TEAforONE wrote: »
    Some weird specs. 25 watts into 8ohms,13 watts into 4ohms.
    behaves more like a current source. Most amps behave more like a voltage source

    That's a big 10-4, good buddy.

    8xn1jgtlltkd.png

    ... and 1.8 amperes into 16 ohms is about 52 watts (at about 29 volts)
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,741
    GEBBY44 wrote: »
    After getting just a taste of the Musical Fidelity sound, a Tri Vista came up for sale locally, and, as I am wont to do, impulsively snatched it. I am thoroughly smitten.

    y0ew4zihe5op.jpg

    2owr8ak6v4py.jpg

    dbwnzex5onof.jpg

    dmy79cnrj80k.jpg

    Congrats! I've been rocking a tri Vista integrated and dac for a while. As @F1nut suggests, the revelation audio cables to replace the stock umbilical cables are well worth it
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • TEAforONE
    TEAforONE Posts: 1,026
    VR3 wrote: »
    GEBBY44 wrote: »
    After getting just a taste of the Musical Fidelity sound, a Tri Vista came up for sale locally, and, as I am wont to do, impulsively snatched it. I am thoroughly smitten.

    y0ew4zihe5op.jpg

    2owr8ak6v4py.jpg

    dbwnzex5onof.jpg

    dmy79cnrj80k.jpg

    Congrats! I've been rocking a tri Vista integrated and dac for a while. As @F1nut suggests, the revelation audio cables to replace the stock umbilical cables are well worth it

    That is one gorgeous piece of gear. If it sounds half as good as it looks,it must knock your socks off! Congratulations!
    See my profile for list of gear.
  • TEAforONE
    TEAforONE Posts: 1,026
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    TEAforONE wrote: »
    Some weird specs. 25 watts into 8ohms,13 watts into 4ohms.
    behaves more like a current source. Most amps behave more like a voltage source
    So,a voltage source amp would double power as ohms drop? My F5 is 25. Watts at 8ohms,50 watts at 4ohms. Would that be a proper example?

    See my profile for list of gear.
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,373
    TEAforONE wrote: »
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    TEAforONE wrote: »
    Some weird specs. 25 watts into 8ohms,13 watts into 4ohms.
    behaves more like a current source. Most amps behave more like a voltage source
    So,a voltage source amp would double power as ohms drop? My F5 is 25. Watts at 8ohms,50 watts at 4ohms. Would that be a proper example?

    I believe you are correct, a voltage source amp sustains the same voltage as load impedence drops, as long it can keep producing more current.
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,895
    edited March 2021
    TEAforONE wrote: »
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    TEAforONE wrote: »
    Some weird specs. 25 watts into 8ohms,13 watts into 4ohms.
    behaves more like a current source. Most amps behave more like a voltage source
    So,a voltage source amp would double power as ohms drop? My F5 is 25. Watts at 8ohms,50 watts at 4ohms. Would that be a proper example?

    Yes, but to do that, it has to deliver twice the current into a 4 ohm load as it would into an 8 ohm load.
    25 watts into 8 ohms equates to 14.1 volts at 1.8 amps (rounding off a bit)
    If the load changes and the output voltage of the amp stays constant, the output current of the amp has to change
    14.1 volts into 4 ohms is 50 watts, and requires 3.6 amps
    14.1 volts into 16 ohms is 12.5 watts, requiring 0.9 amps

    Here's where it gets interesting :) Don't (ever!) forget that virtually all real loudspeakers are not even close to constant impedance devices. The actual impedance changes as a function of frequency. Today's highly complicated, hightly tweaked crossovers can present wildly varying impedance curves to the poor amplifier they're hooked to.

    All of which, to my mind, illustrates how useless, or at least misleading, output power can be as a specification/measure of amplifier performance in the real world :#

    I also think it illustrates why some amps and speakers are better combinations than others. :)