2.3TL Clarity CMR upgrade
gmcman
Posts: 1,806
This upgrade will be replacing the Sonicap Gen 1 caps I've been enjoying and still sound good. I decided to get a fresh set of boards in hope's I can fit all these caps on them.
My original plan was to hopefully use Tony's @gimpod boards, or possibly fabricate some type of mount and go point to point, I may do that in the future but for now this should work.
I ordered these caps with extended leadouts, unsure of how I was going to mount them...I can always trim the leads which is easier than adding to them.
I pretty much replicated my current boards with the Sonicaps and Jantzen inductors, with the exception of the 1.75mH. This inductor is slightly larger in diameter but either way, to get all the caps to fit in the manner I had planned, I needed to relocate the two board inductors for the 6 1/2" drivers.
Using a 1/8" brad-point bit, I made these 4 holes here. This allowed me to fit the 18uf cap above them, thus allowing the cap to remain centered between the existing mounting holes.
I left the leads long, just in case I end up going point to point later, I wanted to leave that option open for now.
You can trim the leads and clean up the install but it's not as much of a rats nest I thought it might be. The first board I did was not as clean, but I left that alone for now...(that was the guinea pig board), this one came out great.
I routed the leadouts through the existing holes in the boards. Two of the the 5.8uf caps came with standard length leads, I kept those and gave @bc6 the two with the longer leads as these had just barely enough reach without stressing the wires.
I placed two caps on the underside, which are just about the perfect diameter when using the large inductor and the factory length standoffs. They are just small enough to not cause any interference with the cabinets.
This way you can mount the boards in the factory location, I used a piece of adhesive foam pad, the same used under the inductors and caps on the circuit boards, for the two caps to rest against the cabinet.
I want with the Mills resistors again so I can compare the two caps. I have a set of Duelund CAST resistors and will change them out after an extensive burn-in and compare.
I also finished up the Cardas Litz wire upgrade with the leads from Trey's @VR3 binding post plates to the boards. I joined the leads on one binding plate instead of using jumpers this time, just for trial.
Now the wait, but after about 10 min, there was an immediate sense of a dark, black background. The mid bass was fuzzy then cleaned up after about 30 min.
I'm sure it will change a lot, but going to let them burn for awhile.
My original plan was to hopefully use Tony's @gimpod boards, or possibly fabricate some type of mount and go point to point, I may do that in the future but for now this should work.
I ordered these caps with extended leadouts, unsure of how I was going to mount them...I can always trim the leads which is easier than adding to them.
I pretty much replicated my current boards with the Sonicaps and Jantzen inductors, with the exception of the 1.75mH. This inductor is slightly larger in diameter but either way, to get all the caps to fit in the manner I had planned, I needed to relocate the two board inductors for the 6 1/2" drivers.
Using a 1/8" brad-point bit, I made these 4 holes here. This allowed me to fit the 18uf cap above them, thus allowing the cap to remain centered between the existing mounting holes.
I left the leads long, just in case I end up going point to point later, I wanted to leave that option open for now.
You can trim the leads and clean up the install but it's not as much of a rats nest I thought it might be. The first board I did was not as clean, but I left that alone for now...(that was the guinea pig board), this one came out great.
I routed the leadouts through the existing holes in the boards. Two of the the 5.8uf caps came with standard length leads, I kept those and gave @bc6 the two with the longer leads as these had just barely enough reach without stressing the wires.
I placed two caps on the underside, which are just about the perfect diameter when using the large inductor and the factory length standoffs. They are just small enough to not cause any interference with the cabinets.
This way you can mount the boards in the factory location, I used a piece of adhesive foam pad, the same used under the inductors and caps on the circuit boards, for the two caps to rest against the cabinet.
I want with the Mills resistors again so I can compare the two caps. I have a set of Duelund CAST resistors and will change them out after an extensive burn-in and compare.
I also finished up the Cardas Litz wire upgrade with the leads from Trey's @VR3 binding post plates to the boards. I joined the leads on one binding plate instead of using jumpers this time, just for trial.
Now the wait, but after about 10 min, there was an immediate sense of a dark, black background. The mid bass was fuzzy then cleaned up after about 30 min.
I'm sure it will change a lot, but going to let them burn for awhile.
Post edited by gmcman on
Comments
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Looking good!- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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The cmr need a good 300 hours to really wake up- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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Thank you.
I listened briefly this morning, there was a dramatic difference in the warmth of the higher frequencies than the Sonicaps...very smooth.
A few lyrics on some familiar tracks were more pronounced, the midrange vocals were clearer, more distinguished than before. Seems there's less overlap of instruments and vocals, which were slightly "muddying" some lyrics for lack of better terms.
I know I need to give them some time, but even now the difference is positive. -
They sure look purdy! Nicely done.
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Very nice!Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
I also just did the Clarity CMR upgrade (although no pictures - mine is a LOT uglier) and I have similar impressions before the burn in. I upgraded from stock and now they are much more clear and open. The sound stage is wide, more natural, and pushed a little further back. I agree with the description of having a dark, black background. They started out fatiguingly bright with a wonky low end, and I especially noticed how bad MQA sounded. It was like fingernails on a chalkboard. After about 20 hours, they seem to be smoothing out without losing the clarity. I'm really looking forward to the next 280 hours.2 Channel: Atohm GT-1 speakers, Atoll IN400 integrated amp, PS Audio DirectStream DAC, PS Audio NuWave Phono Converter, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Esprit SB with Ortofon Bronze cartridge, SotM sMS-200 ultra streamer, SotM sPS-500 power supply, and homemade infinite baffle subwoofer with two Fi Audio IB318 drivers.
HT: All Polk: SDA 2.3tl fronts, CSiA6 center, 500-LS ceiling, RT/FX, RTi8, Monitor 4 rears, plus Yamaha CX-a5100 AV Preamplifier/Processor, Yamaha MX-a5000 11.1 channel amplifier, and Sony XBR55-AE1 OLED TV. -
You're cooking with gas, Doug.....
Now do that to mine. -
You're cooking with gas, Doug.....
Now do that to mine.
Bring em here ya putz. I like doin' that kinda stuff and you already heard what I can do with Steve's!"Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."
"Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip -
@gmcman Did not think they (CMR's) would fit but VERY nice job indeed.“The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain
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They sure look purdy! Nicely done.westmassguy wrote: »Very nice!
Thank you both. Thank's Dave for the inductor parts list.So what are going to do with the replaced caps?
I figure I would hold on to them for time being. I didn't remove the old caps, but left the crossovers intact and went with new boards. Granted it did add to the cost but was easier to begin with a fresh board, also having to relocate two inductors as well.
If I do sell them, will possibly be easier to sell the entire, burned-in crossover.I also just did the Clarity CMR upgrade (although no pictures - mine is a LOT uglier) and I have similar impressions before the burn in. I upgraded from stock and now they are much more clear and open. The sound stage is wide, more natural, and pushed a little further back. I agree with the description of having a dark, black background. They started out fatiguingly bright with a wonky low end, and I especially noticed how bad MQA sounded. It was like fingernails on a chalkboard. After about 20 hours, they seem to be smoothing out without losing the clarity. I'm really looking forward to the next 280 hours.
I have had mixed thoughts on some MQA I've heard. You could be hearing some tracks with the so-called ("loudness war") treatment being applied...with higher bass and treble levels.
I've been going back and forth mostly with redbook CD's and "Rumors" has especially taken a different tone for the better.You're cooking with gas, Doug.....
Now do that to mine.
Just email me your CC info, last 4, etc....
@gmcman Did not think they (CMR's) would fit but VERY nice job indeed.
Thank's Tony... Especially for building us a well thought out board!
