SL3000 Tweeter for SDA 1.2TL
puunda
Posts: 123
Hi everyone,
I have recently got myself a pair of 1.2TL. It was missing a cable which I posted about, but now have found a cable.
The sound is still not quite right to me ... as in there seems to be no SDA effects.
The speakers look in great condition. Looks like it has had the grill cloths replaced etc.
But I'll work 1 step at a time to sort this out.
The first thing is all the tweeters look to be the original SL3000, not the new upgraded one.
ONE of the tweeters has the dome pressed in. I'm wanting to replace that one, but buying a single SL3000 is quite difficult I'm finding.
I'm guessing buying a new upgraded one isn't the best idea, and buying 8 makes it too expensive for me right now.
So my plan is to keep an eye out for an old pair of RTA which has the same SL3000 tweeter. From my research the RTA 11 and 15TL both use the SL3000 tweeter. Is this correct?
If so, can I just pull the tweeter from one of those and drop it into my 1.2TL?
Thanks in advanced
I have recently got myself a pair of 1.2TL. It was missing a cable which I posted about, but now have found a cable.
The sound is still not quite right to me ... as in there seems to be no SDA effects.
The speakers look in great condition. Looks like it has had the grill cloths replaced etc.
But I'll work 1 step at a time to sort this out.
The first thing is all the tweeters look to be the original SL3000, not the new upgraded one.
ONE of the tweeters has the dome pressed in. I'm wanting to replace that one, but buying a single SL3000 is quite difficult I'm finding.
I'm guessing buying a new upgraded one isn't the best idea, and buying 8 makes it too expensive for me right now.
So my plan is to keep an eye out for an old pair of RTA which has the same SL3000 tweeter. From my research the RTA 11 and 15TL both use the SL3000 tweeter. Is this correct?
If so, can I just pull the tweeter from one of those and drop it into my 1.2TL?
Thanks in advanced
Comments
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Buy two RD0-198s, replace the main (primary) tweeter in each cabinet.
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As far as I know, only the RTA-15tl and other 5th generation SDAs had the SL3000s.
All other models came with SL2500s.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
I have 8 sl3000's from my 1.2tls, shoot me a pm if you are interested in one or many of them.
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How are they positioned?
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How are they positioned?
Are you asking me how the tweeters are positioned on my 1.2TL? -
No, the speakers. Exactly how do you have them set up as in are they toed in? What are all the distances?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Oh, right...
No toe in. About 3m apart.
The drivers all appear to be working and look to be in good condition (other than the 1 tweeter that's pushed in). The sound is ok, but seems to be no SDA effect.
Bought them without the interconnect cable and was using an RCA. I have since purchased the interconnect cable. I can hear sound from both woofer arrays.
I have attached a photo, which hopefully helps.
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Ok, 2m max between cabinets, ~15cm from the back wall, and they need about 1m of free space to the outside on both sides. Currently the left channel is much too close to the wall, everything needs to shift to the right.
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I have to disagree with the 2m Max between cabinets, I think 3m is fine.
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westmassguy wrote: »As far as I know, only the RTA-15tl and other 5th generation SDAs had the SL3000s.
All other models came with SL2500s.
The RTA 11TL came with the SL3000 as well. The RTA-8TL did have the SL2500.
Jay
SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0 -
That isn't 3 meters. 3 meters is almost 10 feet. 1.2TL's are 63 1/2 inches tall, which is just over 5 feet. You could barely fit another 1.2 between those if you laid it on it's side. I would say they are pretty close to 7 feet apart as they appear in that image.
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If those cabinets are 3 meters apart, I WANT THAT TV!!!!
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I have to disagree with the 2m Max between cabinets, I think 3m is fine.
That would require at least a 6m wall for proper placement if that's the case... 3 between and one on either side plus the width of the enclosures. -
I'm disagreeing with the max part.
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Oh, right...
No toe in. About 3m apart.
The drivers all appear to be working and look to be in good condition (other than the 1 tweeter that's pushed in). The sound is ok, but seems to be no SDA effect.
Bought them without the interconnect cable and was using an RCA. I have since purchased the interconnect cable. I can hear sound from both woofer arrays.
I have attached a photo, which hopefully helps.
Ok good, no toe in. SDA's work best 6 to 8 feet apart, 3 feet from the side walls and 5 to 6 inches off the back wall.
Get your left speaker out of the corner and away from the window wall. Also, move the sub from in front of the speaker.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
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Ok. I've checked the distances.
It's about 1.8m or 6 ft between the speakers if you measure it edge to edge. I measured it centre of one speaker to the other, which is about 2.5m or about 8 ft.
But based on what you guys have been saying, that's about where they should be anyway ... being apart. The problem seems to be how close to the wall.
They are right in front of the wall, in face about 3 inches. The left speaker is more or less right against the wall/window. There's not much I can do about that, but I don't think that is what's making the difference. Here's why.
Back in 200x I had a pair of these, and they were set up so the left speaker was in the corner against a wall/window and I had the an amazing experience with the SDA effect. There were sounds coming from miles away.
Either my hearing has gone after a decade, or my memories of the SDA is more romanticised than it actually was, or something's not quite about this pair.
Here is a pic of my old setup with the amazing SDA effect.
I have bought some tweeters to replace the dented one. Once that's done I'll check the woofers then the XO to make sure everything is functioning correctly.
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Make sure the red binding post nut is on the left as you look from the back.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Just checked.
The RED terminal is on the RIGHT if you're facing the speaker. LEFT if you're looking from the back. They are the same on both speakers -
Ok, that's not the problem. Time to open them up to check the wiring.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Will do soon.
I'm waiting for my SL3000 tweeters to arrive from the US. Once the dented tweeter is in, I'll check the wiring and XO -
Quick update.
The tweeters I bought from Gerres26 have arrived.
Short version: I had 2 dead tweeters. I changed both. They all work now.
Long version:
I changed the dented tweeter out to find that was actually dead this entire time. I also found another tweeter which was also dead this entire time ... this one is the 3rd from the top, ie the main tweeter on the left speaker ... I know, I have brought shame to me and my family for not spotting it earlier.
Easy enough to check the 3rd tweeter, but I had a lot of difficulty checking the other tweeters. In the end i had to remove each one and listen to it away from the other tweeters. So far all 8 are working ... in that they are all making a sound.
Interestingly the tweeters on the left speaker is a 'darker' dome than the ones on the right and the ones I had just bought.
Below is a picture of the left speaker ... the top 2 are original darker tweeters, and the bottom 2 are the one I had just bought. They are all SL3000, just slightly different colours.
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Paper towel cardboard roll is very handy....
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The Tweeters were hand matched at the factory due to color variations from the manufacturing process. They're functionally the same.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »The Tweeters were hand matched at the factory due to color variations from the manufacturing process. They're functionally the same.
Did not realise that.
In that case it would make sense for me to replace the other 2 so the colours matched. -
Onto the next part.
I figure the next part is to check the woofers and the XO.
The woofers should be easy enough, I figure I'll take each one out and plug them into something and listen for a sound.
With the XO - is there a way to measure each component in the XO without taking each component out? -
westmassguy wrote: »The Tweeters were hand matched at the factory due to color variations from the manufacturing process. They're functionally the same.
Did not realise that.
In that case it would make sense for me to replace the other 2 so the colours matched.
Why? They sound the same? You'd be better off buying all new RDO198's. Better tweeter and all look the same. -
westmassguy wrote: »The Tweeters were hand matched at the factory due to color variations from the manufacturing process. They're functionally the same.
Did not realise that.
In that case it would make sense for me to replace the other 2 so the colours matched.
Why? They sound the same? You'd be better off buying all new RDO198's. Better tweeter and all look the same.
THIS BIG TIME!!!Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
westmassguy wrote: »The Tweeters were hand matched at the factory due to color variations from the manufacturing process. They're functionally the same.
Did not realise that.
In that case it would make sense for me to replace the other 2 so the colours matched.
Why? They sound the same? You'd be better off buying all new RDO198's. Better tweeter and all look the same.
I already have the tweeters. I bought 8 x SL3000, so have many spares, so might as well.
I had thought about buying the new RDO198, but 8 adds up very quickly, and it'll cost $100+ to have them sent to Australia. So will not be doing that for awhile. -
If you heard the RD0198 you'd order 7 more immediately.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
