SL3000 Tweeter for SDA 1.2TL
Comments
-
If you heard the RD0198 you'd order 7 more immediately.
Does it really make that much difference? If so, would something in the middle work? Would buying 2 RD0198 then using them as the main tweeter in each work? -
Yes.
After you buy and hear the two you will order the rest just like I did.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Yes.
After you buy and hear the two you will order the rest just like I did.
His main issue with that is the shipping prices to Australia. He would be paying atleast 100 just for shipping each order. -
For now I'll just use the SL3000 tweeters. Am happy with those. But getting back to the original problem that there's not much of an SDA effect.
So I'm guessing the next part is to check the woofers and XO.
Let's start with the XO.
I have the schematics.
What is the best way to check the XO? Or should I just upgrade the whole thing?
Can I check each component on the board without removing it from the board? Are components like capacitors so old they need to be replaced? -
Looking at the back of the speaker. Which side is the red binding post on? Left or right?
-
So what, shipping costs money everywhere these days.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Looking at the back of the speaker. Which side is the red binding post on? Left or right?
This was asked earlier in this thread.
The RED binding posts are on the LEFT if you're facing the back of the speakers. -
Not for CP members in the states though
-
BEFORE scrrewing with the crossover, I'd want to know thatthere's not much of an SDA effect.
So I'm guessing the next part is to check the woofers and XO.
Let's start with the XO.
I have the schematics.
What is the best way to check the XO? Or should I just upgrade the whole thing?
1. The drivers are connected in proper polarity
2. The drivers actually work
3. The SDA interconnect has low resistance from end-to-end, and that it connects properly into the sockets in both cabinets. We've had other folks with SDA problems that had loose sockets.
4. The SDA sockets in both cabinets are connected properly to the crossover
5. The wire harness connectors plug in to the crossover firmly, (making good electrical contact) the wires aren't damaged, and the wires are connected to the proper drivers. Older SDAs had the wires soldered directly to the circuit boards.
6. Wouldn't hurt to verify that the preamp is set to "stereo" and not "mono" when dealing with SDA problems. SDA effect is signal-dependent. The more the left and right channels differ, the stronger the SDA effect.
7. While I was in there, I'd do the usual checks for loose cabinet bracing, air leaks, pull the fiberfill up where it belongs so it doesn't interfere with the bassive radiator--none of which directly affects the SDA effect, but all of which is needed for proper speaker operation.
You don't need to "upgrade the whole thing" (crossover), although there are folks who do.
No. At least, not with any accuracy and assurance.Can I check each component on the board without removing it from the board?
Electrolytic caps have a service life of "about" 20 years. They're all way overdue for replacement. The Mylar caps probably are OK, but you can do way better with modern film caps.Are components like capacitors so old they need to be replaced?
Similarly, the resistors can be bettered fairly easily. Inductors can be bettered, but not so easily; and the circuit board and the molded-plug connections, the wire harness, etc, are also candidates for upgrade...but it's the caps that are the starting point.
-
^^^
This. -
Do the "battery test" before you go much further. "D" cell, 1.5 volt battery, connect battery negative to speaker negative with a 1 meter wire, connect a second wire of equal length to the speaker positive post and then briefly touch that wire to the battery positive terminal while watching the drivers. Wires just need to be long enough so you can see all of the drivers at once. All should move or bump OUTWARD at the same time. If they pull inward, one fails to move or some move in opposite directions, the internal wiring troubleshooting begins.
One set of used 1.2's I bought had been the subject of someone tinkering inside that maybe shouldn't have been. Had drilled out the IC terminal in the plastic cup and direct soldered the IC cable on the right speaker (so the cabinet was NOT airtight) and then I went on to find several wires reversed and two speaker terminals had fallen off two of the drivers. The wire harness connectors were heavily oxidized on the harness to crossover board as well. I totally rebuilt the XO and replaced the terminals but this could have an impact if the speakers were in a moist environment for 20 years.
Check the simple stuff first.......Media Room: Parasound JC-5, Cambridge 851N, Schiit Freya, SDA SRS 1.2tl
Game Room: Carver M4.0t, Carver C-4000, Oppo BDP-105, SDA SRS 1.2tl
Bar/Card Room: Carver TFM-55, Carver C-1(BillD), Oppo BDP-93, SDA SRS 3.1
Son's Room: Carver TFM-55, Carver C-1(BillD), Laptop/AQ Dragonfly, SDA SRS 3.1
Bedroom: McIntosh MC150, Cambridge CXN, SDA 2Btl
Outdoor Pool Area: Yamaha R-N803 with four Polk Atrium 6
HT: Polk RTi A9s, CSi-A6, RT-65, RTi-A3's, Marantz SR5012, XPA3, UDP-203, Epson 5040UB -
Someone recommended using a 9v battery for mine . I simply reached back touched the terminals and clearly seen 1 or 2 driver move inward while the others pushed outward. I then wired those 2 correctly and the sound was night and day. Very easy way to trouble shoot reversed polarity drivers
-
Not for CP members in the states though
Are you guys saying that not only does the new tweeters cost $48 from Polk, but they also send it to you for free!?
You guys are so lucky.
The Polk importer here replied to me saying 'That part is only available in the US'. -
Not for CP members in the states though
Are you guys saying that not only does the new tweeters cost $48 from Polk, but they also send it to you for free!?
You guys are so lucky.
The Polk importer here replied to me saying 'That part is only available in the US'.
Yup, free shipping for us here -
I posted a reply ... but it's not here ... Guess I never pressed the button.
I've done the battery test ...
All 8 drivers on both speakers moved OUT, stayed out, and moved back to the middle when I removed the battery.
So I think they are all in phase.
I measured the resistance of the interconnect cable (purchased recently from eBay), and the PIN shows 1.3 Ohms. The BLADE showed nothing - wasn't connected to each other ... I understand this is normal.
At first I thought 1.3 ohms was high for such a cable, so I measured my meter and with nothing connected it shows 1.3 ohms. So this is just my meter being uncalibrated. It looks like the cable is very low resistance ... at least the PIN is.
So the drivers are in phase and the IC cable works.
I'll open up the XO over the weekend and will have a look. Never done this before.
-
Only remove the 8 bolts around the x-over plate, do not remove the center bolt! If you remove the center bolt, the crossover will fall off inside and bad juju will happen.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Only remove the 8 bolts around the x-over plate, do not remove the center bolt! If you remove the center bolt, the crossover will fall off inside and bad juju will happen.
THIS ^^^^^^^
-
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Only remove the 8 bolts around the x-over plate, do not remove the center bolt! If you remove the center bolt, the crossover will fall off inside and bad juju will happen.
Learned from personal experience perhaps? -
No, it didn't happen to me but after I removed the crossover plate for the first time and noted how the crossover was attached I thought to myself "It's a good thing I didn't remove that center bolt!"
SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
OK. Have removed the XO and everything looks fine. Measured some resistances etc of the IC to the XO board, and everything looks fine.
I'm beginning to think I may be expecting too much from these speakers, and my memory of them from 15 years ago is much better sounding than they actually are
-
OK. Might have figured it ... at least part of it.
I took the woofers out of the RIGHT speaker and one side was 6511, the other was 6503 as expected.
The LEFT speaker BOTH sides were the 6503 woofers.
I had only take one woofers from each side (ie 2) not all 8, but certainly something is already wrong.
I don't know what the difference are, but would this be causing the lack of the SDA affect?
I'll have to check and worst case I'll have to buy 4 x 6511 drivers. Are they available from Polk US? I doubt very much they would be available here. -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Only remove the 8 bolts around the x-over plate, do not remove the center bolt! If you remove the center bolt, the crossover will fall off inside and bad juju will happen.
I removed the center bolt and can confirm the bad juju.
Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
1KVA Dreadnought
Marantz SA 8005
Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
Sony PS4
Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video
"All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
