I need a small sealed sub

AsSiMiLaTeD

Hey guys, need opinions on a small sealed sub to go with a Harbeth desktop system I'm putting together. Space and budget are both tight, luckily I'm not looking for something with significant output, I just need something to fill in the low end of the Harbeth a little...thinking a small 8" would do the trick. One of those little Sunfire job would be perfect if they still made them and they were cheaper.

I think a sealed model would work best but I'm open to ports (see what I did there) if there are good options there.

F1nut

Look for a Velodyne SPL

txcoastal1

Are you using the P3ESR?

AsSiMiLaTeD

I am

With my dad coming to stay with us for a while I've got very limited space for a 2 channel system, so decided to build a nice desktop system around the Harbeth and a small integrated, need a small sub to match

txcoastal1

@DSkip

Sunfire SDS8 8" Dual Driver

AsSiMiLaTeD

I'll look into that one, also looking at the ML Dynamo 700 as it appears to also be acoustic suspension

ALL212

Here you go - the sealed ones seem to come back ok but the non-sealed ones tend to disappear. We are investigating...

Conradicles

There are a few used REL subs on the bay that may fit your budget.

rooftop59

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Martin-Logan-Dynamo-speaker/263513176319?hash=item3d5a9bf8ff:g:qkMAAOSwCoBaj47I

Best sealed sub you can get for the money...All day every day and twice on sunday.

rooftop59

If you can find an ACI force it is an even better sub, but hard to find and most likely will cost closer to 300.

mhardy6647

ALL212 wrote: »

Here you go - the sealed ones seem to come back ok but the non-sealed ones tend to disappear. We are investigating...

Do they come in any other colors, or would I need to source some black paint and DIY?

Viking64

AsSiMiLaTeD wrote: »

I need a small sealed sub.

Here's a medium sealed sub. I don't think it is as airtight as the one The Beatles are in, though.

ALL212

oh...black paint...not sure where to get that...

98Badger

I have an Energy ESW-M8 that I have been meaning to list for a while. It has seen very little use. It is very impressive considering the size. All original packaging. PM me if you are interested and I can send pics. Price will be reasonable. Around $150

rpf65

https://www.thecableco.com/specials/rel-limited-time-special-on-series-t-i-ends-march-31st.html

This should work.

txcoastal1

https://denver.craigslist.org/ele/d/subwoofer-velodyne-dls-3500r/6506835854.html

https://denver.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=subwoofer&sort=rel


Seriously take a look at your Denver CL ads, some pretty good deals on subs perfect for your PC near field rig

AsSiMiLaTeD

I've decided that I want to keep the Ampino in the mix (many of my issues would be solved if I wasn't married to this amp), so that's going to severely limit my options on a sub.

I've been advised by a trusted source (who shall remain nameless) to absolutely NOT buy REL (due to issues not related to sound quality which apparently is still top notch), this is quite unfortunate because they're the one sub I've found that has the feature where I can wire the sub straight into the speaker terminals, in fact that's the preferred method. I may roll the dice and buy a REL anyway, but before I do that I wanted to see if there are other options out there.

Anything else that you guys know of that has this functionality?

I'd still like something on the small side but can go up in size as long as it's still nice and tight and will work in a small room. Budget at this point is whatever, if I can find something that fits my needs I'll make the dollars work.

rooftop59

Danny did you look at the Martin Logan I listed? It can do everything you need hook up wise and has an excellent, accurate crossover and is very tight and musical. I have probably owned as many subs as you have headphones lol...

AsSiMiLaTeD

I did but that won't work in my configuration I don't think. I don't know how I'd hook that up in my system.

it has speaker inputs but I don't understand how those work. Do I hook those and my speakers both up to the same set of posts on the amp?

rooftop59

AsSiMiLaTeD wrote: »

I did but that won't work in my configuration I don't think. I don't know how I'd hook that up in my system.

it has speaker inputs but I don't understand how those work. Do I hook those and my speakers both up to the same set of posts on the amp?

https://www.martinlogan.com/uploads/documents/manuals/manual_dynamo.pdf

Look at page nine. You can either run from amp to speakers and then speakers to sub, or from amp to sub and sub to speakers. In either case u have to double up on the same binding posts.

AsSiMiLaTeD

I did find that same document, do we know if that’s actually safe for the amp?

rooftop59

I believe it actually cuts the perceived load in half (like from 8 to 16 ohms). @mhardy6647 can u provide any insight?

F1nut

The way REL connects their subs is EXACTLY the same as what is called high level or speaker level inputs. You tap off the same binding posts on your amp and connect to the high level binding posts on the sub. It is entirely safe and is the preferred method as the sub is getting the EXACT same signal as the speakers. Using pre out or sub out connections result in not quite the same signal as your speakers are getting from the amp. That is why the high level method sounds better.

rooftop59

There ya go!

Jim Shearer

As to speaker level connection from an amp to a sub plate amp:
Amps which are class D, class T, and those marked 'BTL' (bridge tied load) could be damaged. With those types of amps, the black terminal isn't ground, it is 'hot'. I don't recall all the details, but this is what I was told by someone familiar with those types of amp topology.

F1nut

The negative binding posts on class D or T amps are not hot.

When using bridged amps things become a little more complicated. One should always check the wiring schematic on the rear panel. This is a Bryston, note neither black binding post is used in bridged mode.

Jim Shearer

F1,

That looks to me exactly like why the guys at DIYaudio told me NOT to use such an amp connected to the speaker level inputs of a plate amp--in bridged mode, both speaker wires are 'hot', and no common ground between channels if both are connected to the plate amp. Those guys at DIYaudio build stuff & I think they know what they are talking about.

IDK, some gear might survive, especially if you have only one channel into the plate amp, but I'm not going to take a chance.

mlistens03

Is this small enough?

In all seriousness, you could get a velodyne vx-10b, it’s not super small, but if it’s is small enough, I would totally get one. I used one for around 6 months and it is awesome.

F1nut

Jim Shearer wrote: »

F1,

That looks to me exactly like why the guys at DIYaudio told me NOT to use such an amp connected to the speaker level inputs of a plate amp--in bridged mode, both speaker wires are 'hot', and no common ground between channels if both are connected to the plate amp. Those guys at DIYaudio build stuff & I think they know what they are talking about.

IDK, some gear might survive, especially if you have only one channel into the plate amp, but I'm not going to take a chance.

You didn't look at the connection diagram on the back of that amp. Both are NOT hot, one is positive and one is negative. It's basically the same as a mono block amp.

FYI, those guys don't know what they are talking about.

EndersShadow

@AsSiMiLaTeD

Have you looked at the older HSU offerings (STF-1 or STF-2)? Small(ish) ported, downfiring, and have speaker level inputs...

Might stumble across them used and they weren't super pricey New either.

Also what about Outlaw Audio? They have their newer M8 sub. It is also ported, downfiring, and has speaker level inputs (though only clip springs so that stinks).

rooftop59

Jim Shearer wrote: »

F1,

That looks to me exactly like why the guys at DIYaudio told me NOT to use such an amp connected to the speaker level inputs of a plate amp--in bridged mode, both speaker wires are 'hot', and no common ground between channels if both are connected to the plate amp. Those guys at DIYaudio build stuff & I think they know what they are talking about.

IDK, some gear might survive, especially if you have only one channel into the plate amp, but I'm not going to take a chance.

I would listen to Mr. Nut on this one. He's a little cranky but he's been around the block a few times lol...that's one smart audio dude.

This is an EXTREMELY common way to hook up a sub. Its the REL recommended method. I've never done it because I've never had to (always running dual purpose systems or had a sub with speaker level inputs and outputs), but one of the best known sub manufacturers in the world recommends it...