I need a small sealed sub

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Comments

  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited March 2018
    Jim Shearer wrote: »
    F1,

    That looks to me exactly like why the guys at DIYaudio told me NOT to use such an amp connected to the speaker level inputs of a plate amp--in bridged mode, both speaker wires are 'hot', and no common ground between channels if both are connected to the plate amp. Those guys at DIYaudio build stuff & I think they know what they are talking about.
    Correct. You do not want to ground either the +or - output of a differential/bridged amplifer. Connecting them to a sub amp via hi level inputs requires the ground to be connected to the main amps chassis ground. Not its negative output binding post. However,in the Bryston example posted you would use the black binding posts since they will always be at ground. In bridged mode one of the red + binding posts becomes the inverted - half of the output and so is hot , not at ground potential.
    Post edited by FTGV on
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  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    why are we talking about a bridged amplifier? Who would connect a sub to a bridged amp?!?
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:     Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
    Bedroom 2.1     Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    why are we talking about a bridged amplifier? Who would connect a sub to a bridged amp?!?
    Some stereo amplifiers have differential/bridged output stages. These would require a different connection method since their negative binding posts would not be at ground potential.
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  • AsSiMiLaTeD
    AsSiMiLaTeD Posts: 11,726
    Is there a way I can determine if that applies to the Ampino?
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,551
    I'll defer to Fred, he's smarter than I am.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,285
    I'm still confused :/
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited March 2018
    F1nut wrote: »
    The way REL connects their subs is EXACTLY the same as what is called high level or speaker level inputs. You tap off the same binding posts on your amp and connect to the high level binding posts on the sub. It is entirely safe and is the preferred method as the sub is getting the EXACT same signal as the speakers. Using pre out or sub out connections result in not quite the same signal as your speakers are getting from the amp. That is why the high level method sounds better.

    This is exactly the way i run my rear cerwin vega CVT 200 sub in my home theater off my receiver. I run the front cerwin vega CVT 300 sub off the LFE of the receiver. Rear speakers set to large, front and center set to small. For a whlie i ran both front and rear off the high level inputs on the sub amps straight off the speaker outputs to speaker inputs on subs. Only the plate amp crossover was used. Basically nothing more than a well dialed in sub sat combo.

    Works great.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    RBH.
    Got mine for 50.00 from local Craig's List. Sounds awesome!
    Kind of rare but they're out there.
    http://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649038883-rbh_ms_81_subwoofer_200_watt/
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • wolfie62
    wolfie62 Posts: 24
    Velodyne DLS 3500R, a powered 8" with remote control. You can dial in the exact response you need to compliment your speakers.


    yr4tc3xn0kte.jpg
    o5hqtlap54xn.jpg
    Invention is the mother of necessity.

    "The Vintage Square":

    Polk RTA 8T (1988, new to me 2018), Peerless+MB Quart DIY (1992), Velodyne DLS 3500R (2005)

    Dynaudio DIY tower 1994: Dual 28 mm soft dome tweeters, dual 9" woofers, custom equal-compromise 2nd order CO, 1.35 cu ft enclosure

    Denon DP45-F (1981), JVC QL Y5F (1980), ADC XLM MKIII (1982), Shure V15V (1982)

    Sherwood S9600-CP (1981)

    Aiwa ADF 780 Cassette (1988)

    Custom DIY dual monoblock 235 w/ch IGBT output power amplifiers

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  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,054
    Skip hooked me up with someone who was selling a used REL T 5 and I love it. While I haven’t had enough time to experiment with placement, I would buy a second if the price was right and just go with one behind each speaker in the corners.
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  • edubb46
    edubb46 Posts: 17
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    ML Dynamo. Best sealed sub you can get for the money...All day every day and twice on sunday.

    And TWICE on Sunday? LOL!
    Actually, I agree. Good suggestion for a sealed budget sub.
    edubb46
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited April 2018
    RBH The best small sub I've ever heard.
    8" woofer...8" passive on the bottom.

    Talk about tight and musical! They are AMAZING! And nice looking too. :p

    I haven't heard a REL yet so...
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    And if you can find one (good luck) a micropro is awesome!

    I've got a 2000DSP model and I'm SHOCKED at how good it sounds. And its super small too boot.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    Consider...

    https://m.ebay.com/itm/Audio-Pro-Ace-Bass-Sub-Evidence-MkII-Subwoofers/332598568309?hash=item4d706b6575:g:gYEAAOSw5UZY~~1L

    Small: 12.5 X 12.5 X 12.5... but not sealed
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    Kinda surprised no one mentioned MK as an option yet...
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  • GospelTruth
    GospelTruth Posts: 403
    If you can find them on the used market, I would suggest the Energy ESW-M6 or M8. They are a very small footprint for a sub in the situation you mentioned. I have one for our TV in the family room. It hides well and does an adequate job for it's size (8" cube).

    ESW-M6 Specifications
    ESW-M6_1.jpg
    Speakers
    Energy RC-70 Mains, Energy RC-LRC Center, Energy RC-R (x4) Rear Channels, Energy RC-R (x2) Front Effects
    Polk 5jr+
    Polk SDA 2B
    Polk SDS 3.1TL
    Equipment
    Panamax 5510 Re-generator Power Conditioner
    Yamaha RX-V3800 Receiver
    Digital Sources: Sony CDP-X339ES CD Player, HHB CDR830 BurnIt Professional CD Recorder, Sony PS3, Oppo DV-983H DVD Player
    Analog Sources: Sony TC-K890ES Cassette, Nakamichi DR-1 Cassette, Technics SL-7 Turntable
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