SRS 2.3's in the house!

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Comments

  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,582
    Ok so I pulled these out of storage because I'm either going to sell them or keep them and rebuild the crossovers. Compared to my restored 1C's they really do sound like crap (can I use that word here?). Rediculously boomy bass and vocals that sound muffled. Highs are far from crisp too.

    SO... My thought is I can't in good faith sell these as is because some idiot is going to buy them and think his JBL's kick their a$$ and he's just going to part them out or something.

    Since I was really impressed with the improvement the Dayton Audio 1% caps made on the RTA11t's I did, I went ahead and ordered all those for the low pass and also the 12uF caps for the lower tweeters.

    I mean WTH I've already done all the upgrades except RDO's. This way I can see what they would have sounded like in 1988. Also has anyone ever eliminated the bi-amp binding posts? This seems like a senseless feature to me and will allow me to upgrade to gold binding posts.

    Thoughts?
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,058
    Some people (myself included) feel that bi-wiring 2.3's sounds better. Bi-amping, apparently not so much. :p

    The speakers in your images appear to look closer to oak (like I have) rather than walnut. Compare them to la2vegas' image (13th post on first page), which appear to me to be walnut. :)
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,582
    I guess I could leave them as is. Just more posts. Hopefully the factory jumpers are good.

    Pretty sure they are Walnut. Grain isn't like the oak generally used on the SDA's plus it's dark. Those pics are kinda deceiving because they are in front of a window.

    Really looking forward to seeing how they will sound. There are two tiny brown caps on each crossover. Are these the ones I remove with no replacement?
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,058
    audioluvr wrote: »
    I guess I could leave them as is. Just more posts. Hopefully the factory jumpers are good.

    Pretty sure they are Walnut. Grain isn't like the oak generally used on the SDA's plus it's dark. Those pics are kinda deceiving because they are in front of a window.

    Really looking forward to seeing how they will sound. There are two tiny brown caps on each crossover. Are these the ones I remove with no replacement?

    Both the grain and the color look a lot like mine, that's why I was fooled. :p

    This link might be helpful: http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/73796/sda-polyswitches-are-nasty

    And this is what the polyswitches look like:

    cuxsztyomax2.jpg
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    audioluvr wrote: »
    I guess I could leave them as is. Just more posts. Hopefully the factory jumpers are good.

    Pretty sure they are Walnut. Grain isn't like the oak generally used on the SDA's plus it's dark. Those pics are kinda deceiving because they are in front of a window.

    Really looking forward to seeing how they will sound. There are two tiny brown caps on each crossover. Are these the ones I remove with no replacement?

    The reddish/brown caps are Silver Mica, remove them and do not replace them. The Polyswitch is located directly above the main Mate'N'Lock connector where the harness from the binding post attaches.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/