Help with fried 2.3tl inductor

Can anyone help identify this inductor. It melted on both my right and left boards. Have schematic but not able to trace which one it is. It solders to "f" and "j" on original polk boards.
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  • a5tjcr7bmjpl.jpg
  • Forgot the picture
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,475
    edited December 2017
    I guess the real question here is how the heck do you fry both? That would need to be answered before you fry 2 more.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,631
    edited December 2017
    Looks to me like you've cooked more than just the inductor.

    The value is .4mH/22 gauge.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • First you need to figure out why it happened.

    According to the Gimpod parts locator the stock inductors are located in the same location on his replacement boards. gimpod.com/partsp23tl.html

    I believe that is the .3mh inductor. The Jantzen Audio PN# is 000-1223 is the correct aftermarket replacement/upgrade.

    I had to get mine from here https://www.hificollective.co.uk/search/site?title=000-1223

    Parts Express used to custom order them but I was told they stopped.
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."

  • F1nut wrote: »
    Looks to me like you've cooked more than just the inductor.

    The value is .4mH/22 gauge.

    I believe the .4mh one is located on the other side of the board by the tweeter and driver output connections.
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."

  • tonybtonyb Posts: 30,165
    That resistor on the opposite side of the board looks to have some burnt markings as well as the cap to the right of the inductor.

    Might as well have both crossovers redone....but the obvious question remains, How the heck did that happen ?
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  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,475
    tonyb wrote: »
    That resistor on the opposite side of the board looks to have some burnt markings as well as the cap to the right of the inductor.

    Might as well have both crossovers redone....but the obvious question remains, How the heck did that happen ?

    I seen that as well. My first thought was that maybe it was where he soldered a length of wire extension. Hard to tell on a 4" phone screen.
  • gmcmangmcman Posts: 1,268
    Can you post a pic of the other side of the circuit boards?

    Did you do anything to the internal wiring when rebuilding the crossovers?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,631
    TNTsTunes wrote: »
    First you need to figure out why it happened.

    According to the Gimpod parts locator the stock inductors are located in the same location on his replacement boards. gimpod.com/partsp23tl.html

    I believe that is the .3mh inductor. The Jantzen Audio PN# is 000-1223 is the correct aftermarket replacement/upgrade.

    I had to get mine from here https://www.hificollective.co.uk/search/site?title=000-1223

    Parts Express used to custom order them but I was told they stopped.

    Yep, you're right. Sorry about that, OP.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • tonybtonyb Posts: 30,165
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    That resistor on the opposite side of the board looks to have some burnt markings as well as the cap to the right of the inductor.

    Might as well have both crossovers redone....but the obvious question remains, How the heck did that happen ?

    I seen that as well. My first thought was that maybe it was where he soldered a length of wire extension. Hard to tell on a 4" phone screen.

    Yep....didn't look like heat marks to me from soldering, more so overheating marks from overdriving.
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    Joule la-100 pre
    B&k Ref 4420 amp

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    Analysis plus crystal oval ic's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

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  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,631
    Don't ya love it when someone asks for help and then disappears!?!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • Seeing that board fried makes me :'(
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  • xschopxschop Posts: 875
    Would a non-common ground amp do that damage?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,631
    Yes, that is a possibility.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,475
    If may be more than non common ground those are sonicaps so one would lean towards another problem. That one sonicap lead looks like it got very hot as well. Something went catastrophic.
  • xschop wrote: »
    Would a non-common ground amp do that damage?

    That .3mH inductor is in the tweeter circuit as is the 16uF cap that appears to be damaged. I'm wondering if he was overdriving the amp into clipping long enough to do the damage. It could explain the funky looking resistor also if it replaced the poly switch. Those are the first 3 components in the tweeter circuit. Maybe he should have used the poly switches in it's place or needs to learn some restraint with the volume knob. Hard to say but that's my guess.

    ckoa4yucedgt.png
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."

  • gimpodgimpod Posts: 1,759
    edited December 2017
    TNTsTunes wrote: »
    I believe that is the .3mh inductor. The Jantzen Audio PN# is 000-1223 is the correct aftermarket replacement/upgrade.

    I had to get mine from here https://www.hificollective.co.uk/search/site?title=000-1223

    Parts Express used to custom order them but I was told they stopped.

    Wrong part, correct mH 0.3 but the wire gauge is 22 not 21 with a DCR of 0.554 ohms not 0.43 ohm; that's more than the +\- %10 Polk allows. read this forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/138234/inductor-dcr-insanity-for-sdas for the correct inductor values.
    tonyb wrote: »
    That resistor on the opposite side of the board looks to have some burnt markings as well as the cap to the right of the inductor.

    Might as well have both crossovers redone....but the obvious question remains, How the heck did that happen ?

    I agree there's more going on here, Look close he put a jumper at C4 I'll bet he replaced the other silver mica cap with a jumper also. The whole high pass section is suspect check your tweeters.
    Pink Floyd, Just makes me want to turn it up too 12 and share it with the world!!. JMO
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  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,475
    I actually seen that but it didn't register as i have not done 2.3tl sda boards.
  • gimpod wrote: »
    Wrong part, correct mH 0.3 but the wire gauge is 22 not 21 with a DCR of 0.554 ohms not 0.43 ohm; that's more than the +\- %10 Polk allows. read this forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/138234/inductor-dcr-insanity-for-sdas for the correct inductor values.

    Do you have a part number for the correct one? I got that part number from westmassguy for my 2.3tl crossovers I'm building on your boards.
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."

  • TNTsTunesTNTsTunes Posts: 756
    edited December 2017
    gimpod wrote: »
    Wrong part, correct mH 0.3 but the wire gauge is 22 not 21 with a DCR of 0.554 ohms not 0.43 ohm; that's more than the +\- %10 Polk allows. read this forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/138234/inductor-dcr-insanity-for-sdas for the correct inductor values.

    I think I found ones that match. 000-1143 or 000-1452 both are .3mH, 22gauge and .550 ohms. Size is the main difference.

    Which one is the better choice? I'm thinking 000-1452 based on it's size

    https://hfc-fs.s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/jantzen-aircore-inductors-list-160716.pdf

    The 1.75mh I have is .97 ohms and 20gauge which is just barely within the +/-10% of the 1.07 ohm rating of the original 1.75mh 20 gauge ones. Is that good to go? I think so.

    The other two inductors are spot on.
    Post edited by TNTsTunes on
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,631
    gimpod wrote: »
    TNTsTunes wrote: »
    I believe that is the .3mh inductor. The Jantzen Audio PN# is 000-1223 is the correct aftermarket replacement/upgrade.

    I had to get mine from here https://www.hificollective.co.uk/search/site?title=000-1223

    Parts Express used to custom order them but I was told they stopped.

    Wrong part, correct mH 0.3 but the wire gauge is 22 not 21 with a DCR of 0.554 ohms not 0.43 ohm; that's more than the +\- %10 Polk allows. read this forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/138234/inductor-dcr-insanity-for-sdas for the correct inductor values.
    tonyb wrote: »
    That resistor on the opposite side of the board looks to have some burnt markings as well as the cap to the right of the inductor.

    Might as well have both crossovers redone....but the obvious question remains, How the heck did that happen ?

    I agree there's more going on here, Look close he put a jumper at C4 I'll bet he replaced the other silver mica cap with a jumper also. The whole high pass section is suspect check your tweeters.

    I don't think that's a jumper.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 875
    I know first hand that a previously triggered polyswitch can make the nastiest tweet screetch even at low levels. Dark Knight posted the ohm values to check them by. Pull em if you got em.

    If you hooked up a non common ground amp, that's another story.... and in the spirit of F1...
    That's a great way to fail.

    Whatever the case, good luck with the fix.
  • gimpodgimpod Posts: 1,759
    TNTsTunes wrote: »
    I think I found ones that match. 000-1143 or 000-1452 both are .3mH, 22gauge and .550 ohms. Size is the main difference.

    Which one is the better choice? I'm thinking 000-1452 based on it's size

    The 1.75mh I have is .97 ohms and 20gauge which is just barely within the +/-10% of the 1.07 ohm rating of the original 1.75mh 20 gauge ones. Is that good to go? I think so.

    I agree the 000-1452 would be the better choice, ether one will work there both within +\- %1.

    The 1.75mH, 0.097 ohms that's close. I would ask @westmassguy what he uses I would not be surprised if he go's larger in mH & DCR then unwinds to spec.
    F1nut wrote: »
    I don't think that's a jumper.

    Yes it's a jumper, look at the full sized image

    e2adlagtd4o3.jpg

    causing a direct (bypassing C3-16uf cap) path through that 0.3mH inductor straight to ground.
    Pink Floyd, Just makes me want to turn it up too 12 and share it with the world!!. JMO
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    Unfortunately for most of us we only get to experience the first day and then we can't even remember it.
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    "50% Why... That's almost half."
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  • After this type of catastrophic failure on both boards, I wouldn't trust any component on those boards. I wouldn't trust the integrity of the boards either.
    "So hot it burns Mice!"~DK
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  • gimpod wrote: »
    I agree the 000-1452 would be the better choice, ether one will work there both within +\- %1.

    The 1.75mH, 0.097 ohms that's close. I would ask @westmassguy what he uses I would not be surprised if he go's larger in mH & DCR then unwinds to spec.

    Thanks for the info. That 1.75mH inductor part number was recommended by him.

    I'll have to get the new inductors ordered. I was going to build my crossovers this weekend, I guess they will have to wait for another month.

    I'm glad you caught that incorrect inductor for me before they were built.
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."

  • Wow logged in this morning wondering if anyone could identify inductor. Thanks for all the feedback! I can provide more pictures if needed. The reason for failure is my concern as well. The boards were done in 2016 and have been trouble free with over 150 hours on them. The poly switch was removed. I then got into the 1000kva tranny purchase this year and only had around 10 to 20 hours until this happened. I verified correct wiring on that and all seems well. I was driving the system hard which is rare any more and the parasound HCA 2200ii went out. At this point I am going service the amp and replace the inductor. I hope this was either driving too hard or something with the amp.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,475
    Parasound 2200II went out? Can you elaborate a little more? You will need to replace much more than the inductor. Those whole boards are suspect at this point.

    Could the amp dumping have caused something like this?

    Buy the new bigger boards from westmassguy you will be glad you did.
  • This was back in May and I finally got around to checking things out. I remember the sound going out or down to nothing. My initial thought was the amp went so I placed in a HCA 1200 that was just serviced and the protection circuits came on so I pulled the speakers from service at that time.
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