Subaru did what now?!?

FestYboy

Not a problem.

Here we go: from HU harness →speaker harness
Left front + black→ white
Left front - green → brown

Right front + red → black/red
Right front - white → white/red

Left rear + white/blue → black/blue
Left rear - orange/blue → white/blue

Right rear + blue/yellow → yellow
Right rear - blue/green → white/black

If you're feeling slick, I'd do this: remove connector R317 and extend pins 1 & 5 back to the amp. Then back probe R316 pins and extend those to R317 as they correspond to the colors above.

Or easier: from R316 to R317 (pin numbers)
2:10
3:4
4:9
5:3
17:6
18:2
22:8
23:7

And you'll want to disconnect pins 1, 2, 3, and 9 from R315

halo

FestYboy wrote: »

Not a problem.

Here we go: from HU harness →speaker harness
Left front + black→ white
Left front - green → brown

Right front + red → black/red
Right front - white → white/red

Left rear + white/blue → black/blue
Left rear - orange/blue → white/blue

Right rear + blue/yellow → yellow
Right rear - blue/green → white/black

If you're feeling slick, I'd do this: remove connector R317 and extend pins 1 & 5 back to the amp. Then back probe R316 pins and extend those to R317 as they correspond to the colors above.

Or easier: from R316 to R317 (pin numbers)
2:10
3:4
4:9
5:3
17:6
18:2
22:8
23:7

Ok, the wire colors I understand..but removing the connector R317 (which one is that? & same for R316). Back probe? That doesn't sound pleasant. lol. Seriously though, that's Greek to me.

FestYboy

Ok there are 3 connectors for the in house amp and they are labeled as such: R315 feeds the tweets and sub, R316 is the input from the HU, and 317 is power to the amp and output to the speakers. Sorry I don't have colors for the plugs, but R315 is 12 pins, 316 is 24 pins and 317 is 10 pins, so they're dummy proof in that respect.

Back probing is simply inserting another pin to the back side of the connector so that it can remain inserted in it's intended spot while being able to feed or tap the wire at the same time. I'll look for the proper pins in a moment.

halo

FestYboy wrote: »

Ok there are 3 connectors for the in house amp and they are labeled as such: R315 feeds the tweets and sub, R316 is the input from the HU, and 317 is power to the amp and output to the speakers. Sorry I don't have colors for the plugs, but R315 is 12 pins, 316 is 24 pins and 317 is 10 pins, so they're dummy proof in that respect.

Back probing is simply inserting another pin to the back side of the connector so that it can remain inserted in it's intended spot while being able to feed or tap the wire at the same time. I'll look for the proper pins in a moment.

The wiring diagram shows that R315 is Blue. I'm still not grasping the back probing concept. Sorry about that

mhardy6647

Sounds like piggybacking another wire (connector) onto a multi-pin plug (to me).

FestYboy

These should work with some solder and heat shrink. Gikfun Female and male Pin Connector Terminal 2.54mm for Dupont Jumper Wire Each 100pcs EK8284 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146DJR9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5EmhAbNSXYQ5T

halo

Looks like I’ll have to yank out the OEM amp and replace it with a 4-channel amp (2 for the front door components & 2 for the DVC sub) and I’ll run the rear door speakers off the head unit. Dang it. At least I know now I can disconnect the OEM amp without any issues.

At least that’s the plan for now.

ken brydson

FestYboy wrote: »

Not a problem.

Here we go: from HU harness →speaker harness
Left front + black→ white
Left front - green → brown

Right front + red → black/red
Right front - white → white/red

Left rear + white/blue → black/blue
Left rear - orange/blue → white/blue

Right rear + blue/yellow → yellow
Right rear - blue/green → white/black

If you're feeling slick, I'd do this: remove connector R317 and extend pins 1 & 5 back to the amp. Then back probe R316 pins and extend those to R317 as they correspond to the colors above.

Or easier: from R316 to R317 (pin numbers)
2:10
3:4
4:9
5:3
17:6
18:2
22:8
23:7

And you'll want to disconnect pins 1, 2, 3, and 9 from R315

What was that middle part again? Otto (Name the movie and actor for a karma)

FestYboy

halo wrote: »

Looks like I’ll have to yank out the OEM amp and replace it with a 4-channel amp (2 for the front door components & 2 for the DVC sub) and I’ll run the rear door speakers off the head unit. Dang it. At least I know now I can disconnect the OEM amp without any issues.

At least that’s the plan for now.

Ummm nope!!! Not even close. there's absolutely no reason to pull the factory amp (unless you WANT to). And if you're using the HU to power the rear speakers, you're half way there anyway. And if you ARE going to run an aftermarket amp, get a 5 channel.

FestYboy

Not quite where I was going with that @nbrowser . If the directions are followed, the OEM amp winds up only running the sub and the new HU runs the doors, no other amplification needed. I got a PM from @halo that the OEM amp doesn't play well with other speakers, but no clarification as to which ones....

FestYboy

In that case, I'll agree. But then if he goes that route, there's the joy of fishing a wad of RCA's through the center console, and you'll still be splicing into the factory harness for the speaker wires because running separates is a total PITA.

halo

FestYboy wrote: »

Not quite where I was going with that @nbrowser . If the directions are followed, the OEM amp winds up only running the sub and the new HU runs the doors, no other amplification needed. I got a PM from @halo that the OEM amp doesn't play well with other speakers, but no clarification as to which ones....

Hi guys,

The OEM amp is tuned specifically to work with the OEM speakers (frequency cutoffs, crossover points) and I have no idea what those specific values are. It's been tried before on the Outback and Legacy GT forums and the consensus is that the OEM makes anything but OEM speakers sound wonky.

mhardy6647

halo wrote: »

FestYboy wrote: »

Not quite where I was going with that @nbrowser . If the directions are followed, the OEM amp winds up only running the sub and the new HU runs the doors, no other amplification needed. I got a PM from @halo that the OEM amp doesn't play well with other speakers, but no clarification as to which ones....

Hi guys,

The OEM amp is tuned specifically to work with the OEM speakers (frequency cutoffs, crossover points) and I have no idea what those specific values are. It's been tried before on the Outback and Legacy GT forums and the consensus is that the OEM makes anything but OEM speakers sound wonky.

Not to go all left-brained analytical scientist on y'all -- but it seems to me that the operating parameters of the amplifier(s) ought to be pretty straightforward to figure out with a frequency generator (and/or some pink noise) and a DMM or a 'scope or even a calibrated microphone/SPL meter.

Not that I am thinking very hard about this -- I am just a dilettante with respect to this topic. My son-in-law & daughter just bought a 2010 Outback, though, so my interest isn't 100% academic.

WLDock

I remember Manville Smith from JL Audio did a very nice stealth system in a 2005 Legacy GT Wagon. Very nice pictures: http://www.jlaudio.com/galleries/Galleries/Mobile+User+Installations/2001+Audi+A6/JL+Audio’s+Demo+Vehicles/2005+Subaru+Legacy+GT+Wagon/718600

Here are some AWESOME SQ builds also...several Subie builds: http://www.simplicityinsound.com/index.php/galleries/sound-quality-builds

Clipdat

Simplicity In Sound is the best! Wish I could afford to have them do a system in my FR-S.

WLDock wrote: »

I remember Manville Smith from JL Audio did a very nice stealth system in a 2005 Legacy GT Wagon. Very nice pictures: http://www.jlaudio.com/galleries/Galleries/Mobile+User+Installations/2001+Audi+A6/JL+Audio’s+Demo+Vehicles/2005+Subaru+Legacy+GT+Wagon/718600

Here are some AWESOME SQ builds also...several Subie builds: http://www.simplicityinsound.com/index.php/galleries/sound-quality-builds

halo

mhardy6647 wrote: »

Not to go all left-brained analytical scientist on y'all -- but it seems to me that the operating parameters of the amplifier(s) ought to be pretty straightforward to figure out with a frequency generator (and/or some pink noise) and a DMM or a 'scope or even a calibrated microphone/SPL meter.

Not that I am thinking very hard about this -- I am just a dilettante with respect to this topic. My son-in-law & daughter just bought a 2010 Outback, though, so my interest isn't 100% academic.

Hi Mark,

The 2010 Outback is the first model year in the next (4th) generation of the Outback and it’s a different animal from the 3rd gen (2005-2009) Outbacks.

mhardy6647

I actually sort of knew that; thanks
I do know that it has a fairly low-tech 'infotainment system' (compared to our son-in-law's mother's 2016 Outback).