So just got a pair of 10b with original stands
jimmylee123
Posts: 105
And was wondering how I mount the speaker to the stand, common sense would tell me to run some screws through the 4 holes into the speaker. Buuuuut I really don't want to do that, and I read that you shouldn't put holes in the box when mounting them, so my question is, how then? I've searched, not in depth too much, but can't really find anything. Maybe I'm not wording it right, dunno.
Comments
-
I believe they are just meant to sit on it. I wouldn't drill holes into anything, if you must try some Velcro. That might mess with the coupling though, not sure.Just a dude doing dude-ly things
"Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
" I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
"Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
"Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
"Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member -
Something like blue tack would be fine if you don't want gravity to do its job.
-
The earlier Polkstands had four large-ish, grippy rubber-like pads near the four corners of the stand that did a pretty good job of hangin' on to the loudspeaker when it was placed on the stand.
earlypolkfamilyportrait by Mark Hardy, on Flickr
The 10B may have had that taller stand? If so, I have no idea about those, sorry
-
I believe those are the proper stands. When I bought my 10Bs in 1988 I bought some cheaper aftermarket stands and they were higher. Used them for 30 years but I keep thinking I should cut them down
Like others have said, I wouldn't screw anything down. When the original grippy pads wore out I found an assortment pack of clear silicone half "dots" with an adhesive back at Walmart. I put one on each corner of the stand and put the speaker on top. Nothing slides around and I am convincing myself they "isolate" the speaker so they have to sound better!
Probably not............but they do work. -
Well the issue is, I am having my first child soon and this system is out in my office. I work from home and will be spending a lot of time with Edison in my office as I work. So I would really like these to be secure, I see four holes on each corner where they sit, I'll attach a pic. Which I read you're supposed to attach with 5/8" screws, I believe it was. And sooooome how these were magically supposed to be mounted without putting holes in the box. Makes no sense to me.
-
So here is the stand and you can obviously see the four mounting holes, but also remnants of a rubber pad, possibly, that used to be there. -
There is some semi tacky black mat for the bottom of drawers or tool boxes. It is usually sold in a roll. I cut a pad and use it in my car to keep stuff from sliding off a smooth surface. It is very compressable and doesn't leave a residue or stick to things.
You could tie strap them to the stand if original and kid resistant is the goal.
The other option is to make your own simple short stand. The speakers would more or less be on the floor. The stand would just tip them up some. I have seen this done for similar sized speakers. -
Those are metal. I thought original stands were wood?
-
Those are metal. I thought original stands were wood?
I did too. Here is a dimension drawing I have of the original Polk 7 /10 stands (they are supposedly the same). It clearly shows a wood top.
I don't remember where I found this (maybe here?) but anyway here it is.....
-
I have those same stands. Home Depot or the Hardware Store. Thin, soft rubber discs, self-adhesive. put one on each corner. They're hair thin, but keep the speaker from sliding off.
Could also cut and attach a piece of 3/4" or 1" aluminum angle across the back of the plate. Speaker won't slide back.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
jimmylee123 wrote: »
So here is the stand and you can obviously see the four mounting holes, but also remnants of a rubber pad, possibly, that used to be there.
Those are the exact same stands I had with my 7C's when I had them. They were original Polk and were screwed to the bottom of the speaker. I even had the instructions of how to mount it, per Polk at that time...Remember, when you're running from something, you're running to something...-me -
Yeah, those look like the later (and taller, if memory serves) Polk stands.
-
Am I the only one wondering if it's too late to back out of the kid plan? It's the least invasive option.I disabled signatures.
-
No screws/screw-ing involved that way.
You know, for the speaker stands, that is.
-
There are instruction for those that @dorokusai posted in 2004 on how to mount them.2 Channel
Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
Musical Fidelity M6Si
North Star Intenso Dac
Auralic Aries Mini Streamer
Oppo 103
Pangea PC
Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers
Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre -
dkfreebird wrote: »There are instruction for those that @dorokusai posted in 2004 on how to mount them.
Hey Dennis. I see trees. -
dkfreebird wrote: »There are instruction for those that @dorokusai posted in 2004 on how to mount them.
Hey Dennis. I see trees.
Well that beats pink polka dotted elephants now doesn't it -
Am I the only one wondering if it's too late to back out of the kid plan? It's the least invasive option.
4 weeks until D-day, too late to back out now. -
I had a bunch of those sticky pads so I added them to the corners over the screw holes. They seem to be doing a better job, and it miiiiight actually even sound a little better. This will have to work for now, still clueless as to why add screw/bolt holes if you're not supposed to screw them down.
-
jimmylee123 wrote: »I had a bunch of those sticky pads so I added them to the corners over the screw holes. They seem to be doing a better job, and it miiiiight actually even sound a little better. This will have to work for now, still clueless as to why add screw/bolt holes if you're not supposed to screw them down.jimmylee123 wrote: »
So here is the stand and you can obviously see the four mounting holes, but also remnants of a rubber pad, possibly, that used to be there.
Those are the exact same stands I had with my 7C's when I had them. They were original Polk and were screwed to the bottom of the speaker. I even had the instructions of how to mount it, per Polk at that time...dkfreebird wrote: »There are instruction for those that @dorokusai posted in 2004 on how to mount them.
my work is done here
-
Blu Tack.
-
How high are the top of the stands compared with the older ones? Like I mentioned I have an aftermarket pair and have been wondering for years if I should cut them down,
-
^^ Those are the original stand dimensions -- originally used with the 7 and the 10.
The later stands were taller -- but I don't know any dimensions, sorry.
see: http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/129525/polk-monitor-7c-speakers-w-stands-milwaukee
(borrowed image, obviously)
-
How high are the top of the stands compared with the older ones? Like I mentioned I have an aftermarket pair and have been wondering for years if I should cut them down,
8 3/4" from the floor to the highest side of the metal plate. The metal plate might be 1/16" or so. -
Interesting, this is what I have from subsequent purchases:
Note the 2 different heights... -
Interesting, this is what I have from subsequent purchases:
Note the 2 different heights...
If you are worried about the speakers sliding off just add a backstop to those stands like these have.
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
-
Not worried... Just posted to show that there were several stand designs. The shorter set came with 10s, bought at the same time when new. Same with the taller set and 7s. Must have been a 2g design change?
-
Continuous improvement was big in the halcyon days of consumer hifi