LSiM 707 bi-amp question

LSiM 707 bi-amp question.

I am assuming the bonding wire couples the mid-woofer, mid-driver and tweeter (basically 703 top half) from the two oval subwoofers correct? If so I'm looking to setup an active crossover for the subs and the top half set at 100Hz. Do I have to remove the passive crossovers? Is 100Hz appropriate? I'm trying to prevent too much roll off in the crossover region but also trying to prevent wasted energy from going to where they shouldn't.

I am breaking in a new pair of 707 and was playing different test tones, 20Hz and 30Hz at 10-80 watts and surprisingly the mid-woofer and mid-driver was trying to rattle of those frequencies?!? I felt active driver movement as I varied the volume. That can't be good?
Shouldn't the HPF even a passive crossover prevent those frequencies from reaching the smaller drivers?
Living Room Music-2.0 Polk Legend L800 | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Marantz HD-CD1 | Denafrips Aries II | Amazon Music Ultra HD via iPad Pro
Family Room Home Theater-7.2.2 (Atmos) Polk LSiM 707, 706c, Dual DSW microPRO 3000, LSiM 702 F/X [x4], RC65i | Marantz SR7009 | Marantz PM-10 [FL/FR] | Marantz SA-10 | Sony UBP-X800 4K | Xbox One S 4K | AppleTV 4K | HTPC | Sony 75” XBR X850D 4K
Office Home Theater-5.1 Polk RT55, CS400, PSW450, f/x 500 | Onkyo TX-SR705 | AppleTV | Samsung 55”
Office Music-2.0 KEF Q100 | Sansui AU-6900 | Topping DX7s | Sansui FR-1080
Office Music 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | Topping DX7s (BAL out) | PASS ACA (kit) Class A balanced monoblocks
Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Rotel RA-1570
Patio Music-2.0 Polk Atrium8 | AMC 2445 bridged
Airplay zones: Family Room (HDMI), Family Room SA-10 (optical), Master Bedroom (Optical), Office (HDMI), Office DX7s (optical), Living Room Ares (Optical), SR7009 (AVR direct) and Patio (analog). Apple Music multi-stream to any, combo or all.
Spares: Polk LSi25, LSiC, CS300, 4pr T15, Martin Logan Motion 40, 50xt, Dynamo 500, Rotel RB-1590, Denon AVR-4802R, Onkyo DX-C540, DVP-S500D, PS HX-500,
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Comments

  • mrbigbluelightmrbigbluelight Posts: 7,949
    edited June 2017
    Almost gave the wrong advice. Rechecking my info.

    MrBigBlueLight
    Here to pick your brain & steal your cookies
    Shifting to Plan B+
  • mpitogompitogo Posts: 446
    i also did not see a wiring guide in the other section. short of opening it up, someone must know..?
    Living Room Music-2.0 Polk Legend L800 | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Marantz HD-CD1 | Denafrips Aries II | Amazon Music Ultra HD via iPad Pro
    Family Room Home Theater-7.2.2 (Atmos) Polk LSiM 707, 706c, Dual DSW microPRO 3000, LSiM 702 F/X [x4], RC65i | Marantz SR7009 | Marantz PM-10 [FL/FR] | Marantz SA-10 | Sony UBP-X800 4K | Xbox One S 4K | AppleTV 4K | HTPC | Sony 75” XBR X850D 4K
    Office Home Theater-5.1 Polk RT55, CS400, PSW450, f/x 500 | Onkyo TX-SR705 | AppleTV | Samsung 55”
    Office Music-2.0 KEF Q100 | Sansui AU-6900 | Topping DX7s | Sansui FR-1080
    Office Music 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | Topping DX7s (BAL out) | PASS ACA (kit) Class A balanced monoblocks
    Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Rotel RA-1570
    Patio Music-2.0 Polk Atrium8 | AMC 2445 bridged
    Airplay zones: Family Room (HDMI), Family Room SA-10 (optical), Master Bedroom (Optical), Office (HDMI), Office DX7s (optical), Living Room Ares (Optical), SR7009 (AVR direct) and Patio (analog). Apple Music multi-stream to any, combo or all.
    Spares: Polk LSi25, LSiC, CS300, 4pr T15, Martin Logan Motion 40, 50xt, Dynamo 500, Rotel RB-1590, Denon AVR-4802R, Onkyo DX-C540, DVP-S500D, PS HX-500,
    Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
  • K_MK_M Posts: 1,617
    edited June 2017
    From manual.....

    "the upper set of binding posts are for the high frequency drivers"

    It does not specify, if it is only the tweeter, but the older Lsi series, the binding posts (upper) were just the tweeter, and the lower were the other drivers.
    Lsi15, Lsi9, LsiC,Rta11t,M5jr+,M4, SDA SRS 2.3TL, Rti6....Still listing stuff, a work in progress.
    B+W-Sold
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    Infinity-Sold
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    Yamaha RX-V377
    Yamaha RX-A860
    Yamaha RX-A3060
    Harman Kardon Hk-350i
    Harman Kardon Hk-........
    Harman Kardon PM-665
    Harman Kardon HK-775
    Pioneer.......Stereo Receiver

  • K_MK_M Posts: 1,617
    Bi-Wiring (see Figure 1)
    Bi-wiring can provide noticeable improvements in the overall
    transparency of your loudspeakers. Run separate speaker wires
    to the low and high frequency drivers from a single amplifier
    (the upper set of binding posts are for the high frequency drivers,
    the lower set of binding posts are for the low frequency drivers):
    after removing the jumpers, connect one set of speaker wires
    to the upper terminals on each speaker and one set of wires
    to the lower terminals. Connect the other ends of both wire
    sets to the same amplifier outputs.
    Bi-Amping (see Figure 2)
    Bi-amping allows you to use separate amplifiers for the high and
    low frequency sections of your loudspeaker for greater dynamic
    range and lower distortion. We recommend that your separate
    amplifiers have identical gain to preserve the speaker’s voicing
    balance. After removing the jumpers, connect the speaker wires
    from the high frequency amplifier outputs to the upper set of
    terminal posts on each speaker. Follow the same procedure
    for connecting the low frequency amplifier outputs to the
    lower set of terminals. Remember to maintain correct wiring
    polarity (+ to +, – to –) in all connections.
    Lsi15, Lsi9, LsiC,Rta11t,M5jr+,M4, SDA SRS 2.3TL, Rti6....Still listing stuff, a work in progress.
    B+W-Sold
    Electro Voice EV-SIX
    Infinity-Sold
    Advent-Now gone
    Yamaha A-S801
    Yamaha RX-V377
    Yamaha RX-A860
    Yamaha RX-A3060
    Harman Kardon Hk-350i
    Harman Kardon Hk-........
    Harman Kardon PM-665
    Harman Kardon HK-775
    Pioneer.......Stereo Receiver

  • KennethSwaugerKennethSwauger Moderator Posts: 7,080
    Hello,
    The lower set of binding posts connect to the lower three bass components, the two woofers and the 6.5" mid-bass driver. The upper set of binding posts connect to the tweeter and mid-range components. I wouldn't recommend removing any of the internal crossover components.
    Cheers, Ken
    "They thought we were too loud, but shoot, I had four army blankets folded over my amp, and the volume level was on 2. I'm used to playin' on 10!" S.R.V.
  • mpitogompitogo Posts: 446
    really? what is the x/over point between the 6.5 and the 3" mid. I would have thought it could be a 703 split. I was looking to run a higher power amp for the two 6x9 with an active x-over at around 100hz and room correction such as the miniDSP 2x4HD.
    Living Room Music-2.0 Polk Legend L800 | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Marantz HD-CD1 | Denafrips Aries II | Amazon Music Ultra HD via iPad Pro
    Family Room Home Theater-7.2.2 (Atmos) Polk LSiM 707, 706c, Dual DSW microPRO 3000, LSiM 702 F/X [x4], RC65i | Marantz SR7009 | Marantz PM-10 [FL/FR] | Marantz SA-10 | Sony UBP-X800 4K | Xbox One S 4K | AppleTV 4K | HTPC | Sony 75” XBR X850D 4K
    Office Home Theater-5.1 Polk RT55, CS400, PSW450, f/x 500 | Onkyo TX-SR705 | AppleTV | Samsung 55”
    Office Music-2.0 KEF Q100 | Sansui AU-6900 | Topping DX7s | Sansui FR-1080
    Office Music 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | Topping DX7s (BAL out) | PASS ACA (kit) Class A balanced monoblocks
    Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Rotel RA-1570
    Patio Music-2.0 Polk Atrium8 | AMC 2445 bridged
    Airplay zones: Family Room (HDMI), Family Room SA-10 (optical), Master Bedroom (Optical), Office (HDMI), Office DX7s (optical), Living Room Ares (Optical), SR7009 (AVR direct) and Patio (analog). Apple Music multi-stream to any, combo or all.
    Spares: Polk LSi25, LSiC, CS300, 4pr T15, Martin Logan Motion 40, 50xt, Dynamo 500, Rotel RB-1590, Denon AVR-4802R, Onkyo DX-C540, DVP-S500D, PS HX-500,
    Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 7,098
    I am waiting with baited breath to see what you find. I like mine for HT but I have chosen a different tac with music.
    rpf65 wrote: »
    I’m thinking you’ve reached the point where people are afraid to open your posts.

    I disabled
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,778
    k1csnkt51c93.jpg
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • mpitogompitogo Posts: 446
    Well duh, just uncouple them... the 3" mid and tweeter are as @KennethSwauger pointed out connected to the upper binding posts. I'll have to figure out the rest.

    Living Room Music-2.0 Polk Legend L800 | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Marantz HD-CD1 | Denafrips Aries II | Amazon Music Ultra HD via iPad Pro
    Family Room Home Theater-7.2.2 (Atmos) Polk LSiM 707, 706c, Dual DSW microPRO 3000, LSiM 702 F/X [x4], RC65i | Marantz SR7009 | Marantz PM-10 [FL/FR] | Marantz SA-10 | Sony UBP-X800 4K | Xbox One S 4K | AppleTV 4K | HTPC | Sony 75” XBR X850D 4K
    Office Home Theater-5.1 Polk RT55, CS400, PSW450, f/x 500 | Onkyo TX-SR705 | AppleTV | Samsung 55”
    Office Music-2.0 KEF Q100 | Sansui AU-6900 | Topping DX7s | Sansui FR-1080
    Office Music 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | Topping DX7s (BAL out) | PASS ACA (kit) Class A balanced monoblocks
    Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Rotel RA-1570
    Patio Music-2.0 Polk Atrium8 | AMC 2445 bridged
    Airplay zones: Family Room (HDMI), Family Room SA-10 (optical), Master Bedroom (Optical), Office (HDMI), Office DX7s (optical), Living Room Ares (Optical), SR7009 (AVR direct) and Patio (analog). Apple Music multi-stream to any, combo or all.
    Spares: Polk LSi25, LSiC, CS300, 4pr T15, Martin Logan Motion 40, 50xt, Dynamo 500, Rotel RB-1590, Denon AVR-4802R, Onkyo DX-C540, DVP-S500D, PS HX-500,
    Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 5,316
    SoundForce wrote: »
    Ive been building speakers for over 0 years and never seen such stupidity.

    LOLWUT????
  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 11,295
    SoundForce wrote: »
    OH BTW... Take a real good look at that pic of the speaker cutout which allows you to see inside of it... I can tell you it isnt exactly like that... That stuffing is NOT that way at all.. What they did is take some very thick sheets of polyfill and wedged them in there and glued one end to make them stick so they would not slide out... After doing speaker work for 3 decades i know having polyfill in small enclosures aint a good idea cause it takes of what little air space is available and causes problems.. SO I took a few coat hangers and a hand portable drill and stuck the hanger in the port on the rear and eventually was able to pull that stuff out.. It was super super difficult. They is no way to get that out unless you go through the port. The other 2 chambers is basic, remove the screws for the speakers and remove the poly fill. The upper poly for the midrange and midbas is just a small sheet cut in almost half. Its nothing like the pics. What I pulled out was aleast, at least a good hald or almost half of the speakers air space volume.. That aint good..And this stuff is thick.. Its not fluffy like the pics at all. Its almost exactly like a cheap sheet of AC filter you see in your house AC. Stiff and takes up way too much air space.. you would think they made it this way.. NO.. the difference in bass clarity is apparent.. Drops lower and cleaner now.

    What are your favorite speakers?
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,778
    Maybe in another 3 decades you'll have learned why poly fill is used.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,762
    edited April 23
    SoundForce wrote: »
    I realized the midbass and subs is tied in to each other when i had the sub woofer active and sending them just bass and the sound was so off i couldnt figure out why till I said... ohhhhh Now I know. and smh... There really is no biamping these
    SoundForce wrote: »
    I found this out becuase , liek most of us, we wanted to actually bi amp the speakers and possibly use active crossovers on tme. NOPE
    If using two level matched identical amps in a Passive biamp mode, I don't see where there would be a problem with levels as POLK has already design that in the passive. How would this be different from the same filters powered by a single amp? The LOW amp has to be level matched so that is does not over power the HIGH amp.

    Further, if one wants to 'truly' go active on these 4-way speakers and finds the crossover a limiting factor then one has to asks if they 'truly' want to go there. To 'truly' go there would take more of a DIY spirit, even if the midbass was tied to the Mid/Tweet.

    However, lets look at all options.

    1) Passive Bi-Amp as is.

    2) Passive Bi-Amp with the Midbass connected to the High Terminal. Either purchase two additional low freq crossover from Polk or build your own. Remove the Midbass from the Low crossover #1 and connect to the added Low crossover #2. Then, connect the Low crossover #2 to the High Terminal. Now the midbass/Mid/Tweet are on the High Terminal and just the Woofers are on the Low Terminals

    3) Active/Passive Tri-Amp. Remove the Woofers, Midbass from the passive and drive off individual amps #1 & #2 and DSP. Keep the Mid/Tweet tied to the passive and power with individual amp #3.

    4) ALL OUT 4-WAY ACTIVE! Bypass all passive crossovers, 8 channels of amplification, DSP, room correction of choice.

    Much is possible if one is willing and able to walk it like they talk it. Just look at these LSiM crossover mods:

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/155256/polk-audio-lsim703-crossover-modification-thread/p1

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/165092/external-lsim703-crossover-modification

    8ynyq5p8mbv0.jpg
    Post edited by WLDock on
    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
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  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,778
    You're wasting your time.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 5,316
    F1nut wrote: »
    You're wasting your time.

    I've spent over 0 years of my life wasting my time. :p
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,778
    I see Google is your friend.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,778
    SoundForce wrote: »
    Everybody wants to be a comedian cause my number 3 button sometimes is dead on this keyboard... LOL
    Whatever.. Look dudes. seriously.. The whole entire point of bi amping is to have the uppper sounds on one amp and lower bass on another amp so the sound doesnt get restrained when huge bass notes hit. Problem is, with these, you cant do that. They messed up. Sure you coudl add 2 amps but that really defeats the purpose of byamping.. They could have adding all speakers but the tweeer to the sub wiring and would youc all that biamping? SMH seriously .. Lets get realistic..

    Now Id liek to get the 703 crossovers and use them in the 705 so I can do a proper biamping job... Anyone want to offer me there old 703 crossovers send me a pm.. Im sure we can work something out..
    I asked Polk 2 times for the schematics and they say.. NO...
    Its like asking for the service manaul of your car when you want to change the fuses and they tell you no its still under warranty.. Thats what polk did...
    Not good polk.. not good at all..

    If you had any idea of what you're talking about you would not need schematics. I could pick apart many of your other comments, but you made my point with that one alone. I have to say you come off as nothing more than a troll.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,762
    edited April 23
    SoundForce wrote: »
    The whole entire point of bi amping is to have the uppper sounds on one amp and lower bass on another amp so the sound doesn't get restrained when huge bass notes hit. Problem is, with these, you cant do that. They messed up.
    If you remove the jumper the HIGH is 280Hz-UP (~6 Octaves) and the LOW terminal is 280Hz-DOWN (~4 Octaves). Yes, its get a little tricky with a 4-way and we don't know the driver characteristics and sensitivity. Who knows if 100Hz-UP makes sense? For sure with just the MID/Tweet together there will be no major upper bass fundamentals to restrain the sound as you state.
    FrequencySpectrumDivision-1.jpg
    Further, consider a slamming song like PONY by Ginuwine. Look at the major peak at 50Hz. Yet there is still a ton of mid-bass -lower midrange slam above 100Hz. Now a bad thing to have 280Hz down covered by one amp and the upper by another playing content with heavy upper bass.
    49811930896_518bf66f65_b.jpg

    SoundForce wrote: »
    Not good polk.. not good at all..
    Its up to the design team to decide whats makes sense. Consider the well received Ascend Acoustics Sierra Tower. It does not even have bi-wire/amp terminals because the designer feels that passive bi-amping offers no advantage.
    back.jpg

    Then there are others that give you terminals for each driver!
    anschluss_827943.jpg

    There are millions of speakers out there that differ in any many ways. Either modify what you have or find a set that works for you.
    Post edited by WLDock on
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    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 13,504
    Interestingly, Magico only provides one set of speaker terminals. Apparently, they feel biamping is not useful with their speakers.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

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  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,762
    F1nut wrote: »
    You're wasting your time.
    Just trying to help and be a voice of reason were I can.

    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,502
    edited April 24
    I want to I be wrong, but I believe no two drivers produce the same FR. I believe it’s a 4.5 way system.

    Obviously the 3 upper driver FRs are different. I think this loudspeaker’s lower woofer is LP’d an octave below the mid’s HP F3. I think someone touched on it but just in case: anticipate minimum quad amp.

    Study the cut-away closure. The woofers are loaded or aligned differently. Also the distance of the bottom woofer from the mid is another indicator.

    Plan to buy a lot of amps, a different pair of speakers, or anti-depressants. I wish you good fortune and sanity following whatever you decide. 😊 Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
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    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
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  • msgmsg Posts: 5,736
    edited April 24
    .
    I disabled signatures.
  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 11,295
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Interestingly, Magico only provides one set of speaker terminals. Apparently, they feel biamping is not useful with their speakers.

    Same with my Dynaudio C4’s
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 32,461
    I'm wondering what he thinks bi-amping is going to accomplish, or what it's going to cure for him. Sure hope it's not loudness he seeks. Maybe he should state what he doesn't like about the sound, the gear used , and we could have helped him. He obviously has his mind set on bi-amping to cure some sort of perceived faults in the sound.
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  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 16,691
    haasni123 reported
  • joecoulsonjoecoulson Posts: 4,538
    pitdogg2 reported
    Auralic Vega G1/Rega TT - Parasound P6 - PS Audio M700x2 - Elac Adante AS-61 - AQ Niagara 5000 - SVS SB16u

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  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 16,691
    edited July 23
  • joecoulsonjoecoulson Posts: 4,538
    Lol!!
    Auralic Vega G1/Rega TT - Parasound P6 - PS Audio M700x2 - Elac Adante AS-61 - AQ Niagara 5000 - SVS SB16u

    HT - Panasonic BDP/Tivo Bolt - Marantz SR5013 - Def tech C and In ceiling - Sony XBR 75"
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,502
    edited July 23
    @mpitogo I hafta ask what others brought up: what are you “trying to fix?” Otherwise a clean, robust 250+ should take of business quite handily. But having bi, tri, and quad amped experience...

    Gonna stir the pot
    WLDock wrote: »
    If you remove the jumper the HIGH is 280Hz-UP (~6 Octaves) and the LOW terminal is 280Hz-DOWN (~4 Octaves).
    Yeah and?
    WLDock wrote: »
    Yes, its get a little tricky with a 4-way and we don't know the driver characteristics and sensitivity.
    Nailed it!
    WLDock wrote: »
    Who knows if 100Hz-UP makes sense?
    probably not
    WLDock wrote: »
    For sure with just the MID/Tweet together there will be no major upper bass fundamentals to restrain the sound as you state
    yup
    WLDock wrote: »
    Look at the major peak at 50Hz. Yet there is still a ton of mid-bass -lower midrange slam above 100Hz.
    So?
    WLDock wrote: »
    Now a bad thing to have 280Hz* down covered by one amp and [280hz on up]per by another playing content with heavy upper bass.

    I don’t see the “280hz problem*” you see or rather understand why that’s a bad thing.

    The passive XO circuitry has no way of knowing:
    a. 1 amp or two
    b. Vertical or horizontal passive bi-amp

    Chances are great two amps of the same make and model would handle that “Pony” passage better than a single, especially if the impedance* drops below 4 ohms or a large portion of the “curve*” below ~300hz stays under 6ohms.

    My 2 cents

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
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