Two Question on 11TL's

CGTIII
CGTIII Posts: 1,070
in Vintage Speakers
Last week I picked up a very nice pair of 11TL's nearby for $100. :-)
No damage or serious scratches. All drivers working and appear original. Case tight. Grills good and excellent. Crossovers look good for original.

1) Are these drivers subject to magnet shift so I should Loctite them?
2) Would they benefit by adding batting? If so, how much, what shape, and where?

Thanks in advance.
Expect that there will be bumps in the road. Choose to not let them rattle you.

Polk - Monitor 10As, SDA 2Bs, LSi9s, White RTi4s, S4s, M3s, various centers.
Boston - CR7, CR6s, CR4s.
Subs - M&K V4, M&K VX-7B, JBL SUB150P, Jamo Sub 250, and others.
​Thompson Adventures, Inc.
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Comments

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Yes, they are susceptible to magnet shift. All the original MW65** original woofers appear to be.
    There should already be Dacron Batting in the upper section behind the woofers.
    They do benefit from adding BH5 or Sonic Barrier on the back wall.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    Adding to Dave's post.

    A little BH5 or Sonic Barrier goes a long way. Just behind the woofers.
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  • CGTIII
    CGTIII Posts: 1,070
    My (admittedly limited) understanding is the two woofers in 11TL's are passive. You don't mean behind the mid-woofers then. You mean below the batting behind the mid-woofers to the bottom? Only on the back wall or back and sides? Or back, sides, and bottom?
    Thank you again.
    Expect that there will be bumps in the road. Choose to not let them rattle you.

    Polk - Monitor 10As, SDA 2Bs, LSi9s, White RTi4s, S4s, M3s, various centers.
    Boston - CR7, CR6s, CR4s.
    Subs - M&K V4, M&K VX-7B, JBL SUB150P, Jamo Sub 250, and others.
    ​Thompson Adventures, Inc.
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    There are only two woofers in the 11tls, and two passive radiators. The BH5 or Sonic Barrier should be applied to the back wall. There's internal bracing, so a couple of 3" X 6" or 4" X 7" wide sections behind the two woofers is plenty. See what fits. Doing the sidewalls may over-damp the enclosure. You just want to catch some of the reflected back-waves, not suck the life out of the music. The bottom section, behind the passives should be completely empty.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • CGTIII
    CGTIII Posts: 1,070
    edited May 2017
    There is batting to the top and upper sides of each MW. I'll put Sonic Barrier on the back and Rope Caulk EVERYTHING.

    Thanks again.

    (Just kidding about the rope caulk! LOL)
    Expect that there will be bumps in the road. Choose to not let them rattle you.

    Polk - Monitor 10As, SDA 2Bs, LSi9s, White RTi4s, S4s, M3s, various centers.
    Boston - CR7, CR6s, CR4s.
    Subs - M&K V4, M&K VX-7B, JBL SUB150P, Jamo Sub 250, and others.
    ​Thompson Adventures, Inc.
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    CGTIII wrote: »
    There is batting to the top and upper sides of each MW. I'll put Sonic Barrier on the back and Rope Caulk EVERYTHING.

    Thanks again.

    (Just kidding about the rope caulk! LOL)

    Great. Rope Caulk NEVER.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • CGTIII
    CGTIII Posts: 1,070
    edited July 2017
    Batting back in place. Sonic Barrier installed. MWs glued.
    Bass is definitely tighter. Thank you all.

    They still seem bass-forward though. Tweeters are definitely working. Is that the nature of 11TLs?

    I suspect they're actually treble-diminished due to 25 years of crossover degradation. What say the experts? Could there be another reason?
    Expect that there will be bumps in the road. Choose to not let them rattle you.

    Polk - Monitor 10As, SDA 2Bs, LSi9s, White RTi4s, S4s, M3s, various centers.
    Boston - CR7, CR6s, CR4s.
    Subs - M&K V4, M&K VX-7B, JBL SUB150P, Jamo Sub 250, and others.
    ​Thompson Adventures, Inc.
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  • codycatalist
    codycatalist Posts: 2,662
    CGTIII wrote: »
    Batting back in place. Sonic Barrier installed. MWs glued.
    Bass is definitely tighter. Thank you all.

    They still seem bass-forward though. Tweeters are definitely working. Is that the nature of 11TLs?

    I suspect they're actually treble-diminished due to 25 years of crossover degradation. What say the experts? Could there be another reason?

    I'm no expert but my 11TLs never seemed bass forward and the treble laid back, that is with the stock crossovers as well. Could be an issue with the crossover.
    Just a dude doing dude-ly things

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  • stevep
    stevep Posts: 335
    Any difference between the two speakers? One of my original tweeters was much louder than the other and followed the tweeter on a swap. New RD0-198 tweeters fixed that problem.
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,375
    I always found that the bass integrates well with the rest of the RTA-11TL.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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  • CGTIII
    CGTIII Posts: 1,070
    edited August 2017
    FLAC file through a FiiO DAC sounds rich. Still seems mid-bass forward though on Yamaha Pure Direct mode (RX-V671.) May just be the nature of the beast (and being spoiled to the 10As. :-) ) Switching to Straight Mode so the M&K kicks in balances it out -- even with the receiver crossover down to 40 Hz.
    Post edited by CGTIII on
    Expect that there will be bumps in the road. Choose to not let them rattle you.

    Polk - Monitor 10As, SDA 2Bs, LSi9s, White RTi4s, S4s, M3s, various centers.
    Boston - CR7, CR6s, CR4s.
    Subs - M&K V4, M&K VX-7B, JBL SUB150P, Jamo Sub 250, and others.
    ​Thompson Adventures, Inc.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter