Nippon Chemicon or Nichicon?

13

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  • Unknown
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  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,300
    Thought you were replacing them. I get or disconnect one leg at a time, discharge via short, and toss
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Ok. So use a 100w bulb, insulated leads, unplugged unit, not standing in water, and preferably sober.
    Or just wing it and follow H9's GIF.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • daddyjt
    daddyjt Posts: 2,547
    xschop wrote: »
    Ok. So use a 100w bulb, insulated leads, unplugged unit, not standing in water, and preferably sober.
    Or just wing it and follow H9's GIF.

    Oh, I always wait for a full moon...
    "Conservative Libertarians love the country, progressive leftists love the government." - Andrew Wilkow


    “Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
    ― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited February 2017

    Well that was uneventful. Safety glasses and no Blue Moon consumption. I was expecting a show. At least I learned how to mod a toy lamp for the exercise hehe....

    Ill be machining solid 3" dia. 6061-T6 for the new feet to blend the receiver patina to my custom 5Jr's...

    i233oddk5xwq.jpg
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Redesigned on fly for 2" diameter felt pads to inset. I like my granite countertops....

    4dbr4a3y0bfn.jpg

    livuj1mb0shq.jpg
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    Looking good.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    6-8 thousandths per revolution is the feed rate for these old receiver knobs it seems
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Thanks F1. I decided to match the machining of the aluminum knobs....
    The factory feet are inadequate to put it lightly... Redrilling holes in the bottom plate for 1/4-20 domes.
    e6rdyuje0omm.jpg
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    Impressive.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Unknown
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    I have made various knobs before. These factory knobs are slip-fit 6.00mm with a setscrew. The splined ones need to have the corresponding potentiometer shafts measured/known.
    I'm not going all-out on this build, but I do plan on revisiting a full billet case for either a Marantz or an Onkyo. I did one each years ago. The Onkyo A7 or A10 was the show-stopper.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited February 2017
    Is Deoxit D5 best all-around? Im not 100% sure what my pots are. I have a little scratch in the treb and balance knobs.

    Also the cover is real walnut veneer. Is there a special oil to rub on or just leave it alone?
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,556
    you can get the same in 100% with a needle end to insert into holes.
    they also make a fader lube cleaner.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited February 2017
    Ahh...something else to wait on...Thanks Pitt I'll order some.
    One last mod to do.. I'm mic'n the cover hardware... it's got to match.

    The site's not letting me upload image. Must be in time-out hehe.

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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    For the curious:

    http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/ssps1_e.html
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Ok so far I've found every Cap in Nichicon FG but for this little guy (Sanyo 2.2uf/25v)?...on what the manual calls the Protection PC Board. I went larger Voltages in the Power Supply Board and the two large main caps, because I was told its ok in power supply. I also found reference somewhere that the protection board for the AA-1050 is different from the AA-1040 and this board is not reflective of cap values in the downloaded manual.... I found 2.2uf @ 50v in Nichi FG.....What to do....

    yvkyvd9b6mvb.jpg
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    I actually found a nichicon 2.2/25v...not FG however
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,556
    they make a 2.2uf 50v
    http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_nichicon_fg.html

    depending on size of old cap but it looks like you may have room hard to tell. going up in voltage shouldn't hurt anything. I have had to do that.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited March 2017
    Yes it is on same board as the speaker relay. So Im not sure if its technically in signal path. If its ok to go 50v I will. I just dont want to fry anything, but def want all same caps.
    I pondered on this mod... The factory cover hardware is blah... And the veneered cover is tooled 12mm dia. X 3.7mm depth. So I made a run of billet inserts to mount with a metric flathead and bring them flush with cover and tie in billet bases...

    g4gpyu4x0evn.jpg

    vwyklzs5fozl.jpg

    epgamzvew7p5.jpg


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  • daddyjt
    daddyjt Posts: 2,547
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    they make a 2.2uf 50v
    http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_nichicon_fg.html

    depending on size of old cap but it looks like you may have room hard to tell. going up in voltage shouldn't hurt anything. I have had to do that.

    Pitdogg is correct - increased voltage ratings will never hurt. The voltage number is a rating of what the capacitor will handle, so no worries on hurting anything.

    "Conservative Libertarians love the country, progressive leftists love the government." - Andrew Wilkow


    “Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
    ― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Very well. Got some ordered and on the way. This audio hobby is like the military, hurry up and wait.

    You guys have any DIY suggestions for thermal paste?
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  • daddyjt
    daddyjt Posts: 2,547
    I'm assuming you are meaning for mounting of output transistors, commutators, and large rectifiers to heat sinks. If you're wondering what to use, this is the one I like:

    https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/chemtronics/CT40-5/CT40-5-ND/240924

    Whatever you use, make sure it's non-conductive - silicon is best. If you are meaning for removing the old paste, denatured alcohol works well, and doesn't have too bad of fumes. It will strip excess solder flux too.
    "Conservative Libertarians love the country, progressive leftists love the government." - Andrew Wilkow


    “Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
    ― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Yes I meant as therm paste. I have some beckman silicone grease, its proprietary, may have graphite but not sure. Seems the standard is zinc oxide and silicone.
    Ill get a tube since I just scored another nice receiver and may have a Marantz 22 soon as well.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    First round of nichi showed up for power supply and main amp... Even the newer large voltage FGs are smaller than originals...

    sk7x106fhdd2.jpg
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    I will be machining/copying these knobs from a minty HH Scott that I recently scored... And also copying its unique headphones jack billet cover for a few Marantz dress-up kits...This unit has a phenomenal sound as well with the 5Jr's....

    iwo337pqscz9.jpg

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    I left extra space between new caps and board (extra cooling?).... Fired it up on the shop 5Jrs and we're back to harmony.
    Haven't done main amp board yet. I can't say for sure whether the caps that vomited were the culprit in an artifact of high volume kick-drum flatulence that occurred at times or the deoxit treatment on all controls... But its sounding smooth again...
    k6z86hhibg7e.jpg

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,556
    edited March 2017
    Well anytime a cap pukes its going to create funny sounds or stop some stuff all together. I had a small value 5v cap on my sony x33es cd player stop it dead in its tracks. In mine i used fine golds and elna silmic II caps 99% elna but fine golds in the power supply.
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,260
    edited March 2017
    I could not tell in the first image if those caps vented or if that was some kind of glue that was used at the factory that had turned brown..Either way, god show, it looks great !
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