Next DIY Build

EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
edited October 2016 in Speakers
So I'm moving up the chain or attempting to. I'm going from a single ported 4.5 cubic square foot box with a 15" Stereo Integrity D2 HT15 to dual 4 cubic foot sealed boxes with 18" Dayton Audio Ultimax drivers.

I choose the Ultimax because it just looks sexy, but also I cant purchase both subs at the same time. The Stereo Integrity DS4-18 is going going gone, and so I'd have to buy both at the same time, which I cant.

I purchased the Dayton Ultimax 18 along with a Denovo Audio 4 cubic foot box as a kit. By buying it as a kit I saved 45 off the cost of the box by itself, and another 30 off with a coupon code for 30 dollars off a purchase of 250 or more.

Brought the total cost of the kit down to 375. For connections instead of binding posts, I went with a 4 pole speakon connector as they just look more solid than RCA.

nl4mpr.jpg?v=1


The amp I'm using is a Crown XLS 2000 that will be bridged to start with while I only have a single sub.

For driver mounting I decided to go crazy and order the Slab Nuts being used by [MENTION=7436018]dgage[/MENTION] of Deep Sea Sound. I really like how they work compared to t-nuts. Oh and they are really really cheap too, so why the heck not!

attachment.php?attachmentid=1161506&d=1451942381

attachment.php?attachmentid=1250513&d=1455404779

I am thinking I want to go front firing, and if so I need to to try and source some sort of metal grill I can fit into dado slots of a grill and then cover with fabric. The metal is there in case a kid falls into the grill or whatnot. My previous sub was downfiring to keep kids away from the sub driver, and from putting toys in the port (which happened on my first sub).

I really like this solution, but again want to add some material behind it like this, but am trying to find a cheaper source than Home Depot:

95a64cba-b845-452f-b3de-c0a4be6caa5a_1000.jpg


But I'm still working on that.

I will likely just add a set of Dayton DSS3 spikes after the fact if I even need them. but it shouldnt really change much on the layout.

Here are some pics of how dual subs in those flatpacks would actually look. The box is 18" wide v the 20" of the actual sub enclosure, but otherwise the dimensions are the same at 20.5" deep and 23" tall.

Here is the front firing configuration, which is what I'm leaning toward.

Full on

17A2B3F9-FDF1-4135-A273-2057354D35A6.jpg

Corner placement (will actually free up a lot of space)

5790198C-F85C-45AF-BB1E-A6E4BD909447.jpg

Entryway facing:

DD2B0410-6D0F-4E2C-8345-247F660D6F2E.jpg

AE249D9E-244A-4465-AFD1-77E697CDFAB7.jpg

Because the box is so close to the same dimensions there isnt a "TON" of difference when downfiring, except instead of 20" deep its 23" deep. And this picture does not take into account the fact I'd need 4" legs, which would darn near bring the sub up to even with the existing entertainment center.

90A53065-B812-4649-8793-40B042F764C0.jpg

D1A6461C-9E51-4E7C-86AF-24E7F96E95AC.jpg


The first sub will be build this weekend on Saturday and then once my existing Dayton SA1000 and sub sell, the second box will be purchase and built along with another XLS2000 if possible.
"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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Comments

  • ConradiclesConradicles Posts: 5,891
    If you decide to go front firing, you may not need a grill. The Ultimax is ridiculously strong and could probably handle your kids running into it haha.
  • UpstatemaxUpstatemax Posts: 2,401
    Yeah but if he parents like me, he encourages his children to run around with very sharp scissors.

    Gotta be careful, don't want any injured audio gear!
    Living room:
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  • mrbironmrbiron Posts: 5,148
    When the kids are at grandmas, I'd put on a film of a washing machine on spin cycle and then do the nasty on top of that thing....I'd only be nervous about my wife walking in on me.
    Zu Audio Omen MK-1B's, Peachtree Decco65, Bryston BDA-2, Cheap TT, PS Audio UPC200, PS Audio AC3's, Zu Mission SC's, HTPC, One, Bottlehead Crack w/Speedball, Senn's MD HD600
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
    edited October 2016
    If you decide to go front firing, you may not need a grill. The Ultimax is ridiculously strong and could probably handle your kids running into it haha.

    Besides kids, WAF plays a role in the need for a grill.

    I will just run it naked when it's just me, and maybe when it's me and the kids lol..

    Note I'm not worried about the CONE, it's the surround I'm concerned about.
    Upstatemax wrote: »
    Yeah but if he parents like me, he encourages his children to run around with very sharp scissors.

    Gotta be careful, don't want any injured audio gear!

    Well Skye gets into anything I do (I encourage it), so she's held screwdrivers, cordless screwdrivers, speaker wire, etc.

    And if I don't put it away fast enough she does play with them...

    So it's plausible lol.

    And again WAF for grills, which I like anyway.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • FTGVFTGV Posts: 3,654
    edited October 2016
    That's a lot of kit for the money.That looks like a very capable woofer. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
    edited October 2016
    FTGV wrote: »
    That's a lot of kit for the money.That looks like a very capable woofer. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

    Sure is!



    Watch the end when they throw down some test tones...
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 10,656
    You go Dan....boom or bust ;)
    Rock it
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
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    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
    I gotta make up for Jim Ackleys slack :wink:

    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • hochpt21hochpt21 Posts: 5,189
    Wow, Skye is sooo big!! Crazy!

    Good luck with the build. I'm confident it will look amazing when it's done.
    __________________________________________________
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  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,457
    Sweet build. I've used insect screen behind the grill cloth before. Nylon for light duty, and aluminum mesh for more protection.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
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    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
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    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

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    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
    Sweet build. I've used insect screen behind the grill cloth before. Nylon for light duty, and aluminum mesh for more protection.

    Thats a friggin GREAT idea! I may just steal it...
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,457
    Sweet build. I've used insect screen behind the grill cloth before. Nylon for light duty, and aluminum mesh for more protection.

    Thats a friggin GREAT idea! I may just steal it...

    The perforated metal sucks, and can block air flow.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
    Sweet build. I've used insect screen behind the grill cloth before. Nylon for light duty, and aluminum mesh for more protection.

    Thats a friggin GREAT idea! I may just steal it...

    The perforated metal sucks, and can block air flow.

    Yeah that was my other concern since its only 40% open......
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • indyhawgindyhawg Posts: 1,350
    Dan--Skye is growing up.
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
    edited October 2016
    So I have my wife picking up some Audioquest FLX 14/4 wire (they dont have 14/2) tomorrow to wire the sub with internally as well as the speakon.

    I also have some old nylon techflex and heatshrink so I will be making the cable look nice and sexy in all black.

    The flatpack and slab nuts arrived at my buddies yesterday, so today he started putting it together. At this point its all clamped together and drying.

    He's gonna sand, prime and start painting it tomorrow.

    All thats left is for me to decide where to install the connector. I have two options in my head.

    I'm leaning toward mounting the connector in the back v hiding the wire but adding another 3" to the height of the build.

    Option 1: I cant do math... the height would actually be 26" tall (23 for flatpack and + 2.5 - 3 for bottom section)
    Configuration%201.jpg

    Option 2:
    Configuration%202.jpg


    Some assembly pictures:

    Slab nut install. Fits fine for the flatpack, could even have another baffle section and it would still be fine.

    FCB31781-7E13-448E-B4CE-E5F745A94B75.jpg

    Slab Nuts mounted to the back of the baffle.

    21B327A1-3A11-4743-A594-3BD2EE54D2DF.jpg

    Getting there!

    D70F39C1-2B66-4360-B23F-97D0FBCB63B0.jpg
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,457
    Looks sweet! You could install two SpeakOn sockets, one in each location, and wire them in parallel. The round type would be easy to recess into the cabinet. If you're painting the cabinet black, it would blend right in if you flip it.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,671
    Looking good! The dual sealed 18's should be nice. I'm a sealed fan for a dual purpose sub.
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  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
    Looks sweet! You could install two SpeakOn sockets, one in each location, and wire them in parallel. The round type would be easy to recess into the cabinet. If you're painting the cabinet black, it would blend right in if you flip it.

    Good idea. I'm fairly certain at this point its going to be front firing.

    The main question is do I want it to be 26" tall or not. I somewhat liked the shortness of the cabinet when it was only 23" tall. Right now my current one is something like 28" tall with the legs and spikes added.

    I'm leaning more and more toward putting it in the back. I give up 2" of space but I am ok with that.

    Alternatively I've been debating installing it on the side of the sub that will face the entertainment center, down in that bottom corner. The entertainment center sits about 3" tall, so I could still slide the sub right up to it, and the speakon connector would be totally hidden... once I get both subs built.

    For now the connector would be visible to people, but I may just say I dont care and do it that way.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
    WLDock wrote: »
    Looking good! The dual sealed 18's should be nice. I'm a sealed fan for a dual purpose sub.

    Yup.... And I could afford two if you'd just buy my Dayton and Martycube :wink:

    Actually he's potentially interested in buying the Dayton amp, and if so I'd be close enough to jump on the second flatpack and ship that to him to have him build lol.....
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
    Ok. Mount connection decision has been made, and hole is being drilled in mere minutes.

    I hate making decisions so I changed my mind about 3 times.

    No legs. Connector dead center in middle of the back. Spaces the sub 2.5" off the back wall.

    Went with this as the sub on the right side when I go duals will be partially blocking an outlet. I anticipate needing access to that outlet to connect the Crowns.

    Currently my XLS2000 is plugged into my APC H15, and I know thats a bad idea since it can pull more current through than the APC can provide. So I anticipate plugging the crown into the wall.

    I will need to find some 45 degree wall outlet pieces anyway so the plugs dont stick so far out into the room anyway.

    That connection layout allows me to have the sub either 23" tall x 20 wide, or if I rotate the sub down, 23" wide x 20 tall. Either way I will have spacing off the back wall that has to be there, and that is what it is. So I have flexibility.

    And if needed can add legs later on once the first one is installed and I play around with placement a bit.

    Future upgrade ideas: Install spike holes on the 23" side and the bottom of the 20" side. Cap the side I'm not using and use spikes on the other.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • mrbironmrbiron Posts: 5,148
    Great!...now i want to build something...
    What will one of these subs draw at peak? I only ask because the electrical in my house is already "not adequate" and i'd be afraid of putting something like this on a not-so-good electrical system.
    Zu Audio Omen MK-1B's, Peachtree Decco65, Bryston BDA-2, Cheap TT, PS Audio UPC200, PS Audio AC3's, Zu Mission SC's, HTPC, One, Bottlehead Crack w/Speedball, Senn's MD HD600
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
    edited October 2016
    mrbiron wrote: »
    Great!...now i want to build something...
    What will one of these subs draw at peak? I only ask because the electrical in my house is already "not adequate" and i'd be afraid of putting something like this on a not-so-good electrical system.

    Well the draw is based on what you have your gains set at..... So pick your poison :mrgreen:....

    In this box per WinISD the sub can handle all 2100 watts of the XLS2000 and "barely" be above rated XMax of 24mm.

    Yes, your about double the manufacture rating of 1000 watts, but the actual draw will probably be less than that :smile:. What the thermal rating of the sub is I dunno.

    I can tell you the Ultimax 18" driver is what Mark Seaton is using in his F18 sealed boxes

    F18-p3.jpg


    My personal plan is initially just run it as it is. RCA straight from the Denon to the Crown amp, and see how that sounds.

    Then later on I plan to purchase a MiniDSP 2x4, which I will custom build in a cigar box, to use some audio magic dust in the form of a shelf filter courtesy of a linkwitz transform to change where the sub rolls off from 30hz down to 20hz.

    I wont be trying to get more gain than I do currently from my 15" driver until it gets below 20hz, and my hope is to get more low low end in the "Hey Irene" area....

    We will see if I succeed
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
    edited October 2016
    Some pics of the grill build. We didnt have to do one of these for my last sub, but I think what Chris came up with ROCKS. It is also unintentionally similar in nature to what Mark Seaton is doing on his subs.

    5A777A5D-AF61-4B8B-AD94-89F1A0D12984.jpg

    E67035F8-F269-4DEF-876C-A5DE016F81F7.jpg

    And before anyone says it, he's already got the middle section where the grill overlaps the sub cutout covered :smile:

    768CA177-4D96-4816-AB01-7B4FDEC60D0F.jpg

    F1418A74-EFCC-4CBA-AB56-3DAE2A9294F2.jpg
    Post edited by EndersShadow on
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,457
    Looks Awesome.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
    Filler added, its been drying a couple hours at this point..

    1EF5E812-77E7-4923-803F-ADC1E120C613_1.jpg

    The Slab Nuts were "close" on this box, but I think I like em quite a bit. An alternative is to use furniture inserts like we did on my first box..... these are overkill, and I like overkill :smile:

    C912918C-293F-4D07-BB58-2D9D701F4D90_1.jpg



    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • CoolJazzCoolJazz Posts: 523
    You go Dan!! Lookin' great!

    I'm sure you know there are a few different styles of the Speakon connectors and you might find some that are slightly longer or shorter. Maybe I've got or seen a right angle too....though I'm not sure how much length change that had to it, if I'm right.

    CJ
    A so called science type proudly says... "I do realize that I would fool myself all the time, about listening conclusions and many other observations, if I did listen before buying. That’s why I don’t, I bought all of my current gear based on technical parameters alone, such as specs and measurements."
  • ThortonThorton Posts: 1,248
    Awesome build so far. Love the pictures and decision making process. When you have it perfected, make me 2.
    _____________________________________________________________________________________________
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  • nhhiepnhhiep Posts: 877
    the woofer looks a lot like SVS SB13 woofer
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
    edited October 2016
    CoolJazz wrote: »
    You go Dan!! Lookin' great!

    I'm sure you know there are a few different styles of the Speakon connectors and you might find some that are slightly longer or shorter. Maybe I've got or seen a right angle too....though I'm not sure how much length change that had to it, if I'm right.

    CJ

    Hey there Mark! Thanks for posting! I need to catch up with you soon about life in general.

    The plan is 90 degree connector at the back of the sub, regular for amp. The 90 degree is 2.5" deep in its entirety. Closer to 1.75" when it's plugged in.

    Already have both connectors in my possession.


    Another progress pic...

    12F31545-F32E-4422-B7BC-2D0007709F09.jpg
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,936
    Thorton wrote: »
    Awesome build so far. Love the pictures and decision making process. When you have it perfected, make me 2.

    If you couldn't guess I have a engineering/IT/computer graphics background lol...

    Which is why I try to plan for all the different options lol...

    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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