Huge sigh of relief
F1nut
Posts: 50,552
A number of days ago I got the chance to actually sit down in front of the big rig and listen to one SACD. However, something was off as in the sound stage was shifted to the right. Not having the time for an investigation right then I made a mental note to check it out ASAP, which happened tonight. I listened to a number of cuts from familiar CD's and SACD's noting all were shifted right. My first thought was I had lost some hearing in my left ear, that my days of audio enjoyment were basically over. Praying that wasn't the case I started messing with connections, still not right. I popped off the grill covers, listening up close to the tweeters, which all seemed to be playing. Now, I'm thinking I've got a tube going bad or an output device or a bad cap and dreaded the thought of tearing into everything. Then for some reason I grabbed my SPL meter and put it an inch away from each tweeter in each speaker noting the readings. After a while I was able to determine that the top left tweeter was playing about 3dB less than the top right. Ah ha! Before I replaced the tweeter I decided to swap the top left and right to see if the problem followed. It didn't, the sound stage was now perfect again. Dirty or loose tweeter connection.....not sure, seems likely.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
Comments
-
Nothing much technical to offer here, but will say that loss of hearing is something I hope against. I never gave it much thought before until I heard a story from work colleague who used to really enjoy music, but lost hearing in one ear completely after some ear infection contracted during a trip. Said he completely lost interest after that, which I can understand. I've noticed it somewhat even just with a stuffy ear during allergy season.
Glad you got it sorted. I can understand that sense of relief. Weird how unsettling it is when something's not working in our systems.
Did you happen to note whether any of the tangs on the tweeters were loose? I've noticed that before on some SL2000's when swapping in new 194's.
How about the wire connections? Where they that near-nuisance tight fit, or did they come off easily?
Speaking of those connections are all yours upgraded, or do you still have the oe ones? The oe ones seem to be a bit loose with just that dimple in the connector locking them in.I disabled signatures. -
Do you have any pets that could have knocked the top speaker cable loose?Klipsch The Nines, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's.
-
When I got my current pair of M7's I thought one of the SL2500's was toast. As it turned out it was also a failing connection. Connectoritis is no fun
I am glad it was nothing more than a connection. For a lover of audio to develop hearing issues is a sad thing. -
Did you happen to note whether any of the tangs on the tweeters were loose? I've noticed that before on some SL2000's when swapping in new 194's.
I can't say I noticed.How about the wire connections? Where they that near-nuisance tight fit, or did they come off easily?
The small Faston on the top left tweeter did seem a bit loose. Hence, my comment about a loose connection. I squeezed the rolled pieces a bit before hooking up the tweeter from the right speaker. That very well may have been the problem.Speaking of those connections are all yours upgraded, or do you still have the oe ones? The oe ones seem to be a bit loose with just that dimple in the connector locking them in.
Stock.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Do you have any pets that could have knocked the top speaker cable loose?
I do have a rather large Maine Coon, but she knows she'd die if she got anywhere near the speakers. However, I did check those connections and all were good.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
My RTA11TL's had always seemed intermittently little harsh. When I went to give the XO's the treatment, I found that the blue elecrtolytic piggybacked on the yellow mylar cap was not even soldered. The lead was just hooked around the other. I am not sure how much difference it made because I upgraded the caps, resistor and went RDO-198.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
A little DeoxIT Gold never hurts. I use it during re-assembly. Keeps any corrosion at bay, and lubricates the connectors. The RDO Tweeter's are extremely delicate. I've snapped a tab off, and several customers have.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
I'm glad you got the issue under control.
I have lived with tinnitus most, if not all, of my life. Listening to music at moderate levels actually helps to "distract" from the constant ringing in my ears.Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10 -
I'm glad you got the issue under control.
I have lived with tinnitus most, if not all, of my life. Listening to music at moderate levels actually helps to "distract" from the constant ringing in my ears.
I find that pure piano music really aggravates the tinnitus in my left ear, yet turned up rock is soothing. On the other hand, I think it was the rock that caused the tinnitus. LOL.
Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
Hmmm, this is interesting Jesse. First off, I am glad that the rig is back to normal. With that said, the one thing that came to mind would be that it wasn't the connection from the tweeter at all, that it was upstream in the component section of the crossover. Hear me out.....
The connection on the tweeter is either there or it isn't. Worst case scenario in my own experience is that if the connection is loose there, then on occasion you might hear a crackle or unwanted artifact that follows the volume and is sparatic. I have not once heard a 3db drop form a loose connection on the tweeter.
Here are my thoughts - when you disrupted the wiring when you swapped the tweeters, a connection from the components the OTHER side of the wires go too (crossover side of the wire) may have been jarred just enough to remake the connection. This may have "repaired" the tweeter db drop.
I would check to see if there are any suspicious connections on the components closest to the wires coming from the tweeter.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
I'm glad you didnt lose hearing JesseMagico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
-
Good to hear it's the source and not the receiver... Definitely would be a scary experience. Maybe you can close the molex connectors up a little to snug things up...assuming those are the type of connectors you have.
-
???Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
-
I just had my scary moment. Tonight was my worst commute night home in 25 years. Three times I had people just cut right into my lane while I was next to them. I still smell something burning from my car out in the garage.
So, it's Friday and all I want to do is listen to some rock and drink some beer. Now I'm sitting here and I occasionally hear from the right speaker a very slight blaaattt on some notes, frequencies or whatever. Since I am very familiar with the system sound I sit up and really listen. Yes, something at certain points is different. Plus the left seems a touch louder. WTF I scream. I do not need this tonight.
Then I got lucky. My first thought was verify the connections, and when I looked at the right speaker I see the mid/high spade connection is almost off and bent. I get some needle noses and straighten the spade and reattach it. Power on the right amp. Okay sounds better.
After eye balling the speakers I turn the right in a tad, and now the sound is balanced. Thank the 'verse' I proclaim.
I think being able to pick up on this type of detail is a necessary ability, especially when evaluating cables and power cords.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
I'm convinced, the more intricate the system, the more troublesome & frequent the gremlin attacks.
Last weekends I experienced similar left channel "Argh!" A quick once-over revealed "Connectoritus" on my left channel's woofers @ the amp. Thanks Steve (little wooden boats). The affliction now has a name.
TonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
Mine has shifted to the left and I can't figure it out.Pardon the hi rez pic.
2 Channel
Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
Musical Fidelity M6Si
North Star Intenso Dac
Auralic Aries Mini Streamer
Oppo 103
Pangea PC
Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers
Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre -
Do you have any pets that could have knocked the top speaker cable loose?
I do have a rather large Maine Coon, but she knows she'd die if she got anywhere near the speakers. However, I did check those connections and all were good.
I have had a couple Maine Coons... If you can't have a dog, they are a very close second on the loyalty scale. Amazing, beautiful and loving animals.The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson