Amps and surge protectors

13»

Comments

  • pkquat
    pkquat Posts: 748
    edited April 2016
    I'm not saying anything really. Just trying to understand where people are coming from. I was a fan of tripplite ISObar for strips. $100.00 or something.

    People seem to like the panamax as an o.k. cheaper solution.
    Just asking what the experience was.

    If people think it is snake oil its o.k. with me.

    Ah ha, the "tripplite" lead me to find something similar to the surge protectors I had 10-15 years ago and what I was thinking of. It is rated for 20A and there are models rated for more. It was close to this, all metal case, network rack mount with surge protection. It supposedly had some of the best computer protection and filtering at the time.

    Computer protection and filtering may be different from home audio. At the time I recall people saying the they were the same, the audio versions only had a higher mark up. I'd still like to find out more, if anything for informational purposes. From some of the links here, I gather that there may be some tailoring of the design towards home audio vs computer, power conditioning not included.

  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,965
    Computer stuff is geared more towards surge and spike protection. Audio based units are geared towards the same, but add a level of noise reduction and power conditioning, and in some cases regeneration. Cost more to do that.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    Tripp-Lite LRC-2400 is a rack mount all metal case 20 amp unit with isobar outlets. I use one in my system. A year ago I tested the Hafler 500 plugged into the 2400 versus the wall and could not hear a difference. But now with better sources I think I get better bass slam plugged into the wall but maybe the expense of some mid and top end smoothness. So I purchased a PS Audio Soloist so I can plug the amp directly into the wall and plug the 2400 with all the low power into another outlet on the same dedicated circuit. In the future I plan to split the circuit in half each on a separate leg in the power panel.
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"