2.3TL Rebuild Starts Now

machone

wmg,
Can I mount gimpods boards using metal screws through standoffs directly to the back wall of the cabinet? I can't see why this would not be OK.
Thanks

westmassguy

machone wrote: »

wmg,
Can I mount gimpods boards using metal screws through standoffs directly to the back wall of the cabinet? I can't see why this would not be OK.
Thanks

Absolutely. Just make sure the screws are the proper length, so you don't go through the back.
I would also recommend stainless or even brass screws. You don't want ferrous or magnetic metal anywhere near the board Inductors

BlueBirdMusic

Yes, be careful.

I know how it feels to go through the back of some wood. I was running surround speaker cable for a friend, and the speakers were to be positioned on the upper columns of a new custom room divider.

From the basement, I drilled two holes to go into the divider. One hole was okay; the other hole was in the middle of her hardwood floor between the living room and kitchen door. I had to call her to let her know. I think I was more upset than she. It's a bad feeling.

machone

I know I can remove the binding post cup to measure but the back wall on a 2.3TL should be a nominal 3/4" thick, right?

westmassguy

3/4" correct

honestaquarian

Try to keep the speakers at least three feet from the sidewalls minimum. Five is ideal according to Polk,but not everyone can do that,hence the three foot minimum.

machone

Right now with everything removed from the room it has turned into an echo chamber. I already have plans to remedy this with numerous bass traps and acoustic panels.
I have tried different positions and with the current condition of the room they sound better closer rather than further from the side walls. In any case they are more than three feet from the side walls.
I am sure with soon to come x-over upgrades and future room treatment their optimum position will change.
It's all good

amb426amb1

Have you decided on brands that you will use in Xo's yet...or maybe I missed it listed already

machone

Gimpods boards with sonicap caps, mills resistors and erse inductors for the subbass drive

machone

Ready to assemble the xovers Tuesday and Wednesday night. Can't wait!

Mike Reeter

Now your getting down to the good stuff!

westmassguy

Looking good!

machone

Thanks guys

amb426amb1

Watching with interest...following same path

Gunther16

you're gonna enjoy this!

machone

Anybody got a recommendation on the best location for the replacement sub-base drive inductor in a 2.3TL?

I am replacing the stock unit with an Erse.

westmassguy

Off to the side. Keep it away from the board mounted inductors.

machone

wmg,
Off to the side like on the side wall? It does not matter to me because I will be adding extension wires anyway. I could also mount it to the bottom.

westmassguy

On the back wall, don't have to go crazy.

RandyCroissant

If you look at my profile pic you may be able to see were I mounted my inductors.

RandyCroissant

By the way top shelf stuff you got there.

machone

One down. One to go. Much easier than the SDA-1As. Forgot to take a photo of the x-over installed. I'll get one tonight.

westmassguy

Very Nice!

machone

Thanks wmg.
I did have one accident. While removing the large inductor/x-over I backed the screw out faster than expected allowing the inductor/x-over to fall and yank the wiring harnesses. It broke one of the plastic tweeter brackets that hold the faston tab. I was able to glue it back together with superglue.
So for anybody out there doing the same thing; remove the harnesses from the x-over first. Don't be an idiot

westmassguy

Duh!

BlueBirdMusic

machone, the populated board looks great. By the way where did you buy those nylon connectors? I guess they are molex ones?

I need a couple to reconnect wiring that was cut in an Infinity SSW-212 Subwoofer that I got at a garage sale a few weeks back. I know now why it was only $100. Maybe a mistake!
Harry Jones - Marietta GA

machone

Polk uses MATE-N-LOK connectors. I got mine from Mouser.com (page 1778).

machone

I finished the X-over upgrades.

My first impressions are:
The imaging and sound field is the very wide.
Bass is tighter but seems to be less so I moved the speakers a couple of inches closer to the wall to compensate.
Bass extension is improved.
On some music they are a little hard? So let the burn-in process begin! I expect things to smooth out as they get some hours on them.

westmassguy

Looks great. 200 hrs minimum burn-in.

Mike Reeter

machone wrote: »

I finished the X-over upgrades.

My first impressions are:
The imaging and sound field is the very wide.
Bass is tighter but seems to be less so I moved the speakers a couple of inches closer to the wall to compensate.
Bass extension is improved.
On some music they are a little hard? So let the burn-in process begin! I expect things to smooth out as they get some hours on them.

Very nice work! The sound will be "all over the place" for quite a while, as you are also breaking in new tweeters.

Dave is right on the mark with a 200 hour break-in. If possible, hook up a source and play 24/7...a week to ten days and you'll be very close!

N'joy!