A Real SL 2000 Hack. Replace stock (burnt voice coils) with "silk diaphragm dome ".

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited June 2022
    Pulled the SL2K tweeters from the TMM shop speakers as one of the Wuhans may be about to toss it's cookies. It gets a nasty distortion when they're being pushed hard. This just started happening and not sure if the old Onkyo amp that went out had anything to do with its demise.

    Painted a 2" PVC cap Polk-Black and trimmed it to fit the alloy back-chamber previously installed. Then made radiating fins on the housing itself...

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    Made the thru-hole 0.625 to match the pole-piece countersink...

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    Added a little more lamb's wool...

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    Maybe use Loctite 271 again for best heat transfer?

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    Will mount them back up tomorrow...

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    Post edited by xschop on
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  • plastic_avatar
    plastic_avatar Posts: 708
    You sir, are a madman.
    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * custom 5B on a system for my Dad * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited June 2022
    Wanted to do the heat-dissipation mod to a set of RDO's and A-B them with the RDO's in the 8TL's with a thermal laser and see if there's a temp difference. Don't have any spare RDOs yet, so these will do. I took the non-offender out and the alloy housing measured 88 degrees at high volume for 45 min. today. (Shop temp was @80 degrees ambient)

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    #271 already set....

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    All alignments looked good, but I can't dismiss this area of the dome edge that is not well attached to the plastic housing (near left and right tab tapes). I decided to add a thin layer of blue Loctite around perimeter and force it into gap by fine crafters brush to see if this was the problem. It ohms out and the coil is evenly underhung, so we'll see...

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    Post edited by xschop on
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,458
    Cool stuff. Can you use that non contact laser pointer thermometer to take the temperature of the voice coil former through the silk dome from the front? Might get you closer to the voice coil temp so you can get a better comparison of unmodified vs your finned chamber mod.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    Cool stuff. Can you use that non contact laser pointer thermometer to take the temperature of the voice coil former through the silk dome from the front? Might get you closer to the voice coil temp so you can get a better comparison of unmodified vs your finned chamber mod.

    I had already converted both housings by the time I saw your post. Good news is that the Wuhan dome is not fried. I reinstalled it and ran it HARD for a couple hours yesterday without a hiccup. The ambient temp was 78 deg F and the domes never got above 81 themselves.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    plastic_avatar wrote: »
    You sir, are a madman.

    Thank you. I enjoy being able to repair something myself and making improvements if possible.
    Again, VSAT's to blame lol.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    Yep.
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    Try ferrofluid yet ?
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    I'll let one of you guys try that. Can't hog all the mods lol.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    Hell you know I would but I ain't even had time to send parts off yet.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,146
    edited June 2022
    xschop wrote: »
    plastic_avatar wrote: »
    You sir, are a madman.

    Thank you. I enjoy being able to repair something myself and making improvements if possible.
    Again, VSAT's to blame lol.

    I sold the receiver that was powering my re-foamed and newly installed used working tweeter in the Cerwin Vega 120's.

    I thought about reviews I read about sending big power to these speakers. I had wires just hanging on a post that I could utilize. I've had a Adcom 555II amp system hooked up but no speakers for quite a while so I hooked it up to the Cerwin Vegas. Oh yea. :D

    This amp exposed a loose brace in the left speaker right off the bat. I felt like the woofers were moving now. It was a different bass sound (seemed not as tight) and mids and highs seemed louder too.

    I was glad to have heard the banging brace and where it seemed to be. I took out the woofer and saw the brace move with me pushing it. I screwed it to the back AND then hot-glued it all around it on the inside.

    I'm going out in a minute to see if the knocking is gone. :)
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • plastic_avatar
    plastic_avatar Posts: 708
    You guys and your fancy skills and shiny metal awesomeness.

    I decided to try and 3D print some Wuhan plates.

    Almost got it... Need to adjust the thickness of the face around the tweeter. Test print fits the 1c tweeter cutouts perfectly, the dome snaps in tight to the plate, and I made it a mm thinner than stock so it mounts flush.

    Can't compete with the awesomeness of metal, but it'll do for right now =)

    5gqdpcchqhib.jpeg


    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * custom 5B on a system for my Dad * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    You should go the opposite direction and make the dome interface thicker. If not, you'll be inappropriately serenaded by the plastic, depending on its density/modulus.
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  • plastic_avatar
    plastic_avatar Posts: 708
    That's what I'm working on. =)

    The non-symmetrical infill should help with rigidity and keeping vibrations under control, too.
    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * custom 5B on a system for my Dad * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,146
    The left Cerwin Vega VS120 doesn't knock anymore. problem fixed. :)
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Tony M wrote: »
    The left Cerwin Vega VS120 doesn't knock anymore. problem fixed. :)

    Hopefully you're further away from neighbors than I am while doing tests.😝
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,146
    xschop wrote: »
    Tony M wrote: »
    The left Cerwin Vega VS120 doesn't knock anymore. problem fixed. :)

    Hopefully you're further away from neighbors than I am while doing tests.😝

    I can crank the volume till my ears bleed.

    I'm so darn lucky to have had the neighbors I've had since 86'. Not one cop call.

    I also think having pegboard all around the whole room absorbs/dissipates some soundwaves.

    I've had a few systems cranked up at one time till it just doesn't matter if I turn one or the other up louder. Yea, it was loud.

    The other day selling that receiver powering the CVs, Frankie goes to Hollywood's Pleasure Dome came on the station. I turned my other JVC receiver and Polk Monitor 10s on too. The guy smiled a big smile. The room was full of great sound for sure.

    I've never had one neighbor complain once about my musical volume being a noise that bothered them. I also play my porch speakers somewhat loud but mostly they are respectful to neighbors that are 2 doors down or more.

    Now if one of my neighbors was having a get together with others, I've always respected their need for their communicating and own music listening needs. I'd never piss them off. Heck, nowadays you never know if a pyromaniac is visiting a neighbor and then wants to get back for what they thought was disrespect to their party or get together. :#
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • brandonpaterno
    brandonpaterno Posts: 1
    Tony M wrote: »
    Tony M wrote: »
    I looked at this quagmire and I think it can be done with some gouging out for the new tabs to fit behind the face-plate.

    Oh, the screw opening on the new silk dome plate are JUST a bit too shy of letting all 4 screws fit. So the openings of the screw holes will have to be extended JUST a bit.

    I think a DREMEL tool is needed.

    The new dome's coil seems to fit perfectly though. The new tweeter plate fits behind the old flange's faceplate indentation very well too.

    I don't know if the screws are going to be long enough since this new silk dome has it's own flange too. I'm doubtful but hopeful.

    I'm SOOO glad this thread was reposted after so long. I tried real hard to find it this weekend because I just completed swapping out 2 domes.

    I finally bought a small drill press off of Craig's list and set up a few jigs to do what need to be done. No Dremel tool was used but a Dremel BIT was used in the press to carve out plastic from Polk's bezel to allow the new dome's tabs to fit flat. I DID have to buy longer screws that screw into the magnet.

    I'm going out to put them in some Monitor 5s now. I'll listen to the 5s first and then swap the tweeters.

    Hi .. Just for clarification did you mill out the points between the diaphragm and the holes to the left and right so the rectangular tab can fit in perfectly? I’m also confused as to why longer screws need to be used. why not the ones that come with the sl2000? i haven’t opened my sl2000s yet. is it because the flange beyond the diaphragm is thicker?
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  • plastic_avatar
    plastic_avatar Posts: 708
    i haven’t opened my sl2000s yet. is it because the flange beyond the diaphragm is thicker?

    The plate the Wuhan dome mounts to adds distance between the hole in the tweeter faceplate and the magnet housing.

    Example:

    Original faceplate in upper left.

    The original dome mounts to the opening from the top side.

    The replacement mounts to the bottom and sticks through opening from behind. The extra material adds distance for those 4 screw hokes.


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    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * custom 5B on a system for my Dad * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Thanks to VSAT, I can investigate a simpler RDO modification that doesn't require a rear chamber to dampen the dome and lower Fs.

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    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited July 2022
    After dissecting the Q1R tweeters, decided I'd mimick their pole piece profile and I'll stuff the tunnel and the void between pole piece and magnet with lamb's wool.
    I used a 13/32" HSS bit to a depth of 0.55'" so as not to punch thru the back side with the factory center indention there. Then I used a 1.125" dia. 90 deg. countersink to a depth leaving 0.100" wide annular space....

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited July 2022
    Practicing my tufting technique...



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    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited July 2022
    Can't forget the RD0 Teflon ring....

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    Just waiting on the Wuhan express...

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    Post edited by xschop on
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    Yep and I think I done screwed the pooch. Got em all boxed up and ready to go out the door and left them right there. Forgot to mail them. I will rectify immediately! In the mean time "behind the facade of this innocent looking bookstore" .............3ve5r976qxup.jpg
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    OK, the Wuhans shipped... Ancient Chinese Secret.... As so with Black Dragons.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited July 2022
    I had 1 good "bowtie" dome and one good full-circle dome. After trimming the full-circle dome to clear the RD0 mount bosses, and drilling the diaphragm for the extra locating pin bosses, that side still sounded too veiled. I finally got a well-balanced sound out of that one by fully cutting and trimming it down to match the other bowtie style.

    What was happening is the extra 2 locating pins (for the Teflon ring I imagine) were still making the coil not self-align in the gap by just the standard left-right pins.

    All is good and LOUD. The neighbors may be annoyed running them in the 5B test mules, but this mod cleans up these silks just a good as the back-chambered mods I did and very notably at higher volumes. Not a peep of shrill out of them the last few hours while I baked another set for their conversion...

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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    You are cookin there @xschop !
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    I'll swap in a set of fresh Wuhans tonight and see what they do right out of the box....

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited August 2022
    Just saw my post typo. Should be drill bit depth of 0.65" including drill point.

    Looks like someone's going to beat me to the Peerless conversion.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    Who in Whuan could do that?
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