Exodus Audio Maelstrom 18" Subwoofer
zingo
Posts: 11,258
A few month ago purchased an unfinished Exodus Audio Maelstrom-X Gen II 18" with dual Maelstrom-x 18" passive radiators build locally from Craigslist. The seller had built and tested the cabinet a few years back after purchasing the drivers from Exodus (when they were still in business), but he never finished the project after moving to an apartment.
When I bought it, the drivers had been removed from the cabinet, and were stored in their original foam, and in great condition; including all the weight hardware for the passives. The box condition was a little rough, but overall well made with 1" MDF (doubled up on the driver faces) internal cross bracing. I lugged the 200lbs box home, and used my furniture dolly to wheel it out to the cabin. The design is down-firing with the two passive radiators front and back facing, so the first work I did on the box was mount 2" risers on the bottom with industrial casters; with the addition of the drivers, the entire enclosure weights about 300lbs.
Mounting the drivers was as easy as a 65lbs can be, but the cabinet was built with threaded inserts for all of the woofers, so it was only a matter of lining up the holes and torquing the bolts down. The original binding posts had been stripped off, so I ran speaker wire through the holes for testing purpose, and wire everything up. I knew the box wasn't airtight, and the weight needed to be adjusted on the passive radiators for proper tuning, but the original building said it tested strong down to 15Hz when he first assembled it, and I just wanted to make sure everything worked. The subwoofer driver is dual 2ohm coils, and I wired them in series for a reasonable 4ohm load. I hooked up a two channel amp I had, and the subwoofer came to life! This subwoofer was huge, and the sound that came out of it was huge-er!
The cabinet is not air tight at some seams, but it was also never caulked, and I need to use some body filler on the exterior of a few joint spots. I have binding posts on order, as I'm going to wire the woofer with both coils separate, and can be jumped externally. I haven't decided if I need any foam or stuffing on the inside, and I'll probably roll the exterior with a black truck bed liner or similar.
As far as final amplification, I have a pair of mono Buttkicker BKA1000-4A amps which do 1000w at 4ohm and 1900w at 2ohm. I don't think I'd buy these amps again as one is still on the bench from blowing a cap (poor quality control), but one is currently powering the subwoofer very well, and I'd love to feed the unit almost 4kW from the two amps. The amps do offer adjustable gain, adjustable and defeatable crossover, defeatable subsonic filter (although not applicable in my application because it of the very low tuning of the system), and auto-on.
I know I need to tune the PRs because the system actually seems to roll off before 80hz, but I want to get everything air-tight and mechanically tuned on it before I run the auto-EQ processing for it. I'll snap some pictures, but so far a fun project that provides more than enough LFE for movies.
When I bought it, the drivers had been removed from the cabinet, and were stored in their original foam, and in great condition; including all the weight hardware for the passives. The box condition was a little rough, but overall well made with 1" MDF (doubled up on the driver faces) internal cross bracing. I lugged the 200lbs box home, and used my furniture dolly to wheel it out to the cabin. The design is down-firing with the two passive radiators front and back facing, so the first work I did on the box was mount 2" risers on the bottom with industrial casters; with the addition of the drivers, the entire enclosure weights about 300lbs.
Mounting the drivers was as easy as a 65lbs can be, but the cabinet was built with threaded inserts for all of the woofers, so it was only a matter of lining up the holes and torquing the bolts down. The original binding posts had been stripped off, so I ran speaker wire through the holes for testing purpose, and wire everything up. I knew the box wasn't airtight, and the weight needed to be adjusted on the passive radiators for proper tuning, but the original building said it tested strong down to 15Hz when he first assembled it, and I just wanted to make sure everything worked. The subwoofer driver is dual 2ohm coils, and I wired them in series for a reasonable 4ohm load. I hooked up a two channel amp I had, and the subwoofer came to life! This subwoofer was huge, and the sound that came out of it was huge-er!
The cabinet is not air tight at some seams, but it was also never caulked, and I need to use some body filler on the exterior of a few joint spots. I have binding posts on order, as I'm going to wire the woofer with both coils separate, and can be jumped externally. I haven't decided if I need any foam or stuffing on the inside, and I'll probably roll the exterior with a black truck bed liner or similar.
As far as final amplification, I have a pair of mono Buttkicker BKA1000-4A amps which do 1000w at 4ohm and 1900w at 2ohm. I don't think I'd buy these amps again as one is still on the bench from blowing a cap (poor quality control), but one is currently powering the subwoofer very well, and I'd love to feed the unit almost 4kW from the two amps. The amps do offer adjustable gain, adjustable and defeatable crossover, defeatable subsonic filter (although not applicable in my application because it of the very low tuning of the system), and auto-on.
I know I need to tune the PRs because the system actually seems to roll off before 80hz, but I want to get everything air-tight and mechanically tuned on it before I run the auto-EQ processing for it. I'll snap some pictures, but so far a fun project that provides more than enough LFE for movies.
Comments
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This is where the subwoofer "sits" when not in use. The output is so strong that it sounds cleanest in about the middle of the room for music and movies. -
The Maelstrom 18" subwoofer next to a stout 15" subwoofer. -
One of my buddies suggested I wrap the front of the subwoofer in a brick veneer to match the fireplace...
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Lay it on its side and make it a coffee table hehehe......"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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What a beast of a sub. Nice man, very nice.
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Just received the binding posts in the mail, so next week I'll remove the drivers and start sealing and finishing the cabinet.
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Anyone line the inside of their subwoofer with open cell foam instead of stuffing it with polyfill? I got 24 sq/ft of 3" thick foam today, and am considering applying it to all interior surfaces in the woofer cabinet except where the drivers are.
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Anyone line the inside of their subwoofer with open cell foam instead of stuffing it with polyfill? I got 24 sq/ft of 3" thick foam today, and am considering applying it to all interior surfaces in the woofer cabinet except where the drivers are.
I used this stuff for my Ported Martycube and it worked decent. You can also buy similar from Parts Express I believe.
That said I still think lots of guys with Ported subs use the foam to line the sides and top and then still fill it with polyfill. The reason for why escapes me at this exact moment but I think the foam is to keep the cabinet from resonating as much, whereas the polyfil it to slow down the driver and make the driver think the cabinet is bigger than it is...
"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
My understanding is lining the walls is more for reducing reflections than resonance as you aren't adding any mass.
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My understanding is lining the walls is more for reducing reflections than resonance as you aren't adding any mass.
That could be it. Since my sub is ported it wasn't something I read about much since most folks just put foam in and were done. I will be interested in your findings though since I plan on building some smaller sealed subs soon.
"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
My 3" foam is actually 4" foam, and I seem to have enough to fill the entire 12cu/ft cabinet. I don't think I'll go that far, but I don't know why I was worried about having enough...
I also got my second Butt-Kicker amp running yesterday after replacing some caps in the power supply, so I can now run the 2 ohm voicecoils separate; 2000wrms per voicecoil of fanless, class-D power should be enough. -
Wow; this forum just auto censored the name of the amplifer company when I hit submitt!
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Bum-Kicker...for when nothing less than retina detaching LFE will do."Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."
"Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip -
One 18" mega woofer with two 18" passive radiators in a 2" thick, 12cu/ft cabinet powered by 4000wrms should be retina detaching...
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My subwoofer build may be cool, but it's no 40 cubic foot vented enclosure that is tuned to 18hz with 4x of these drivers!
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Wow that's unbelievable!Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
A few update pictures from last night after caulking the seams and gluing foam to the non-driver bearing cabinet walls. After giving the silicone and glue 24 hours, I'll glue the top back on tonight after installing two sets of binding posts, and start filling and prepping the cabinet for paint/texture.
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I get all sweaty and twitchy when you post new pictures in this thread. Thanks!"Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."
"Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip -
I drilled the holes for the binding posts tonight, and glued the top on with what should be enough wood glue to seal it. Next step is wood expoxy on the imperfect points with some sanding.
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I thought the top needed a little weight while drying.
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I admit that I am helpless when it comes to posting pictures! Some are sideways, some are correct, and this last one is attached and needs to be opened; someone save me from myself!
I think I need a CP handler... -
First round of wood putty last night and I'm impressed. Out of the tube, it was weird and chalky, but this morning it was rock-hard and ready to be sanded.
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Apparently a braced and foam filled subwoofer cabinet is more fun to play in then help me prep for paint. Who would have known!?!
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Dude those pics are awesome!!! Made my wife feel much better about my subs so thx lol...and FYI I am very jealousLiving Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer