Exodus Audio Maelstrom 18" Subwoofer
Comments
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Talking with a buddy who builds cars, he suggested trying Behr Textured DeckOver for this cabinet. It's a waterproof and heavy duty roll-on paint that fills imperfections and has a small texture mixed into the coating. I should be able to start applying it this evening after direct sunlight, and hopefully it will give the results I'm looking for. I don't need a extra rugged or textured Rhino Lining, but want to make sure the cabinet has a little more pop than standard paint.
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The heat this week seems to have "adjusted" some of the seams and joints in the cabinet, but I'm letting it sit in the garage today to help everything settle and cure.
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The coating turned out with a reasonable finish. The second coat helps a lot, but I should have done more prep on the joints. It's actually a really nice paint for this application and for a mild hide and texture, and any shortcoming of the product is related to my wood work.
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This is a cool project Jake, reminds me a lot of the TC Sounds monster I was working on and ultimately scrapped due to the insane nature of it. I would love to hear it.
The last time I used a textured paint/truck bed liner for a speaker cabinet, I actually did a single coat, then scraped all of the texture off along with a light sanding, painted it a flat black, then applied another texture coat and preferred the results over just a textured finish. YMMV- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
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Initial tests are very boom boom and probably insane. With 4kW available from the two amps at 2ohms powering the 18" driver which is pushing two 18" passive radiators, it's enough subwoofer for the space.
The bass is tight with all kinds of music, and I'll be trying a movie very soon. The cabinet and drivers did pass the "push test", so the cabinet is effectively sealed. I'll be doing frequency sweeps to tests all frequencies up to 80hz (since I've retuned the passive radiators and added foam in the cabinet), then rerunning the DSP tuning once I like the frequency response. While playing some Jay-Z, I could feel the air moving under the cabinet which was pretty crazy for a sealed design. -
Holy mother of god.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Now I should add a seperate 30A outlet for the subwoofer amps to supply enough juice; although my power center can supply bursts up to 55A which seems to work for now.
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This thing reminds me of the guy that put a 12" subwoofer in a Volkswagen Beetle. He put a piece of plywood in the window cut a hole and used the car for the enclosure.
Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
1KVA Dreadnought
Marantz SA 8005
Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
Sony PS4
Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video
"All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER" -
I tested frequencies between 10hz and 85hz today and it sounded really strong by ear (feel for sub 20hz). I'll test it again using my SPL meter, but I'll level to spec it using a mic and software; anyone local have that equipment?
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Or I have a laptop and a 1/8" plug mic from my Yamaha DSP tuning; is there free software I can download to measure the subwoofer?
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Are you sure that thing wont liquify your guts? I think i need one lol!
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Downloaded the software on a laptop and went to plug in my mic, but it's a 2.5mm plug! Now I'll have to go buy a 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter before continuing.
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Finally got around to ordering an adapter since all Radio Shack had for sale was an adapter multi-pack for $12.
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GUUUUUUUHHHHHHHHH..............................
And I'm finished... Nothing to see here. -
GUUUUUUUHHHHHHHHH..............................
And I'm finished... Nothing to see here. -
Each time I see an update to this thread, I open it up hoping to see a picture of your house reduced to nothing more than a pile of rubble. So far, I have been sorely disappointed.
+1. LOL.
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Ethernet Filter: GigaFOILv4 with Keces P3 LPS
Source: Roon via ethernet to DAC interface
DAC: Bricasti M1SE
Pre/Pro: Marantz AV8805
Tube Preamp Buffer: Tortuga TPB.V1
Amp1: Nord One NC1200DM Signature, Amp2: W4S MC-5, AMP3: W4S MMC-7
Front: Salk SoundScape 8's, Center: Salk SoundScape C7
Surround: Polk FXIA6, Surround Back: Polk RTIA9, Atmos: Polk 70-RT
Subs: 2 - Rythmik F25's
IC & Speaker Cables: Acoustic Zen, Wireworld, Signal Cable
Power Cables: Acoustic Zen, Wireworld, PS Audio
Room Treatments: GIK Acoustics -
Sorry to disappoint you... Although the home theater is in the cabin, so it would only reduce that to rubble; not our house.
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I hope to have some measurements posted by the end of the week, and some final tuning after that.
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Well my wife and I decided to go to Austin last minute for a week (tickets purchased Tuesday morning, flight left Tuesday night), so my goal is to run the tests tonight.
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Well... I ran the software, but it isn't subwoofer only. So I wasn't able to chart the frequencies very specifically or very low, and the chart could not be zoomed into the 15hz-80hz region. I'll find some new software and try again tomorrow.
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It looks like TrueAudio offers a trial version of their TrueRTA software, so I'll give that a try tonight.
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The software I downloaded would only let me observe the frequency response one frequency at a time. I put together a spreadsheet for the first few frequencies I tried to measure, but am now realizing the subwoofer probably needs to be in the middle of the room to try to minimize room issues, and I also put the mic near-field to one of the passive radiators; I'll try remeasuring with the mic near-field to the down firing active woofer.
