Monitor 5B crossover capacitor advice

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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
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    cortico wrote: »
    Yes, the Jrs have the SL2000.

    Would you recommend me a grille cloth brand that has the same original vintage look?

    http://www.parts-express.com/mellotone-premium-black-speaker-grill-cloth-yard-64-wide--260-332
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
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    I recovered my SRS's and 2B's using fabric from Joann Fabric (Sew Classic Knit Ponte Black- Item # 864595). http://www.joann.com/sew-classic-knit-ponte-black/864595.html
    It is not an exact match for the original but I found it to be more musicaly transparent than the original and easy to work with. And on top of that it's cheap ($3.99/yd with coupon).
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
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    I used the Melotone Premium at Parts Express, it is excellent stuff. One yard is enough to do two pairs of 5B's
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
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    nspindel wrote: »
    I used the Melotone Premium at Parts Express, it is excellent stuff. One yard is enough to do two pairs of 5B's
    That's what I recommended Neil, but if you got a Joann's fabric, or any fabric store locally, be worth it to see what they have
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
    edited June 2015
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    hi guys, I have received the first shipment, i also ordered a pair of mw 6502, speaker cloth and will get caps for the 5JR+ as well.

    I am excited to get to work, there's been more than a year since i recapped my 2270

    This is quite addictive...

    IMG_9302-2.jpg

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited June 2015
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    Looking good. I see you went the extra distance, and are using the Claritys for the Hi and Lo-Pass. You won't be sorry.
    Is that gasket material? Looks a bit thick.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
    edited June 2015
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    Looking good. I see you went the extra distance, and are using the Claritys for the Hi and Lo-Pass. You won't be sorry.
    Is that gasket material? Looks a bit thick.

    the gasket is this:https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/acoustic-damping/dampers-foam-tape-1/2-wide-x-1/8-thick-per-foot/

    I ended up not using it, the original gasket seemed fine…


    5B speakers are recaped, I immediately notice differences in the sound, it's laking bit of bass but definition and seperation has improved significantly. I will report back as things improve.

    Next, I will move on to the 5JR+, this time I will uses the sonicaps and mills.

    IMG_9316.jpg
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
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    Did you install Hurricane Nuts, and machine screws, or just used the old Polk sheet metal screws?You should check for air leaks.
    Give the new caps 200+ hours burn-in for everything to settle down.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
    edited June 2015
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    I am using the old metal screws. The speakers sound great, I am happy with the new RDO tweeters and the caps. The highs are mellower and clearer, good stuff!

    The 5B are really good, I have paid $60 for the pair and invested $200 on it, sounds crazy I know, but in my opinion totally worthy.

    I will give it sometime, I remember, when I recapped my stereo, it took a little while until the Elna Silmic II caps I used mellowed down.

    IMG_9323.jpg

    The 5jrs+ will receive new 6502 woofers, one is frozen and the other has a little rub. I will replace the single capacitor, resistor and switch the polystwich with a .5ohms resistor. I really like these speaker. I have to find a small power vintage receiver to pair with them.

  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
    edited June 2015
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    To burn in the caps on my Monitor 10's I hooked them up to a receiver and CD player in another room and gave them about 70 hours a week playing time then I listen to them on Sunday after about 70 hrs each time and it was cool to hear the changes!
    They will get better after 200+ like Dave said, got about 600+ maybe on mine now :)

    I did stop the burn in after they got near 200 hours.. the rest was all listening time..
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
    edited June 2015
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    Ouch! 200 hours will take a while, I can't trust on a 40 years old stereo running unattended...today I have set the receiver bias and DC balance to spec, the caps just passed the 20 hours mark. Honestly, allready sounds pretty nice.

    I wonder if I would notice a difference between the Mumdorf and mills resistors, I my experiment with the mills they may complement my marantz voicing.
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
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    Nothing crazy about spending $200 fixing up your speakers that you spent $60 on. I got my 5B's for $60 and spent $300 fixing them up!!!
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
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    I don't like to leave my stuff too unattended so I only do this burn in while I'm home, and always shut it down when I go to work but its at a lower volume I can't really hear and I always check on it.

    I'd never even do this with my tube amp.
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
    edited June 2015
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    I have received the current production MW6502 woofers, the rubber surrounding does not have a cutout for the screw as the vintage productions have. I noticed that the rubber catches into the the screw when it is fastened, raising and dragging the rubber as shown on the photo.

    Would this be a problem and cause rubber fail and potential leaks in the future? I thought in installing a washer between the screw and rubber seal, what do you think?

    current production:
    IMG_9383.jpg


    vintage:
    IMG_9385.jpg
  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
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    go it! thank you.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
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    I use a utility knife blade, Exacto knife, or scalpel, and a machine screw slightly larger than the one you'll be using to secure the woofers. Insert the screw, hold it tight from behind, and CAREFULLY cut the half circle from the rubber surround. You can also make square notches like to older drivers, but I found tracing a screw head safer than making notches free hand. Just don't cut in too deep. There should be about 3/16" left where the surround is glued to the frame.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
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    The capacitors have about 50 hours on them, I have turned on the stereo when I arrived today from work, juiced it up a bit and... Uow! I noticed a big sound change since last time!

    I'm glad I went with the clarity ESA, I though it would be a good choice due to the dark nature of the Marantz, I think they match pretty well and produce a clear, big and warm sound as 2270 should. I wouldn't trade for anything, but that just me. :)

    Unbelievable how different the 5B and 5jr+ sound!
  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
    edited June 2015
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    The bass is back, it could be me, but I found it a bit to much boomyness now, well defined but strong. It sounds better if I defeat the loudness button and set bass-1, mids1, treble 0...
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,831
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    It sounds better if I defeat the loudness button

    As it should.

    You'll need 200 hours before the caps burn in, so don't rush to judgement yet. If you still have boomy bass set the tone controls to flat, then move the speakers out from the back wall a bit.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
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    Loudness controls should be outlawed. Every manufacturer implements them differently. Some only boost the bass, others boost the bass and treble, and the amount of boost varies. You're better off with the loudness, and tone controls off until the burn-in is completed. Then, as Jesse said, move them farther out from the back wall or closer to correct the bass. Use tone controls as a last resort.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,388
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    cortico wrote: »
    why Monitor 5B and Monitor 5JR+ crossovers circuit look so different, both speakers use same drivers?

    Now the big dilemma, should I go:

    a) Clarity Caps ESA with Mundorf resistor?

    or

    b) Sonicaps with Mills resistor?

    I used the clarity SA 600v caps in my 5jr plus upgrade with remarkable results. Also did my rta12c's with clarity esa's fantastic results. Good luck and have fun
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
    edited June 2015
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    Thanks! I'm pretty happy, the speakers are sounding very good. I think I made a good capacitor choice, my rig still sound like my rig but more pleasant, Well, I have replaced drivers too, (rdo194 and mw6502 from Polk), only cabinets and wire harnesses are original. All things considered, I am not very sure where the improvement is coming from.

    Last night I have replaced the old cloth with a "spandex" type of fabric I got downtown for a few dollars a yard, just wanted to practice recovering the grill. Surprisingly, it doesn't look bad at all, the fabric is light an I think that it does not affect sound.

    image_5.jpg
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    image_8.jpg
    image_9.jpg
    Post edited by cortico on
  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
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    What would be the minimum room size you would recommend for the 5B?
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,388
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    It depends on the volume you want to play at. For "normal " listening levels a bedroom or small to advertise living room should be fine
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
    Options
    Hi, just a follow up on my crossover update. I have built new speaker cables with canare 4s8 wire and decided to rewire the speaker drivers with the leftovers, What do you think?


    image_18.jpg

    image_17.jpg

    image_16.jpg

    image_15.jpg

    image_14.jpg


  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,388
    Options
    What gadge are those red and white wires?
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,388
    Options
    cortico wrote: »
    hi guys, I have received the first shipment, i also ordered a pair of mw 6502, speaker cloth and will get caps for the 5JR+ as well.

    I am excited to get to work, there's been more than a year since i recapped my 2270

    This is quite addictive...

    IMG_9302-2.jpg

    Those caps look familiar, did my 12c's with those. With great results.
    j5bwd8prm2hp.jpg
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
    edited August 2015
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    Your crossover looks good! The caps are really good, I have very happy.

    Answering your question, each wire is 16awg, I have joined 2 per side that may equal approximately 12awg, I would think.
    image_16.jpg




  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,388
    Options
    Very nice. i just used 14 ga stranded copper.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
    Options
    I know this may look silly, but i also made jumpers to replace the fuse in the back. I am always checking the DC balance and my amp has a speaker protection relay...

    image_19.jpg