My newly refurbished Monitor 5's
nspindel
Posts: 5,343
Got my hands on a pair of Monitor 5's from a Craigslist seller recently, I couldn't resist at $60 for the pair. What's a guy to do with a $60 pair of speakers? Spend five or six times that amount fixing them up, of course!
First of all, big huge thanks out to @westmassguy, @DarqueKnight, and @dkfreebird. The karma is strong with these three! Really appreciate the help from these guys!
These appear to be on of Polk's famous "in-between" pairs, where they were using up old parts on newer models. According to the specs for the 5B, the move from the Peerless tweeter to the SL2000 should have been accompanied by a polyswitch. The schematics show that the Peerless 5A's had a fuse. However, this was a pair of 5B's that still had a fuse rather than a polyswitch. The cabinet was clearly a 5B, with the beveled edge and the Polk logo on the grill, not the cabinet. But yet it had the fuse. Obviously Polk needed to run through their stock of the older crossover.
The cabinets were in pretty good shape, I'd give the laminate a solid 8/10. A couple of light scratches and dings, but they cleaned up pretty nice with some denatured alcohol.
In terms of improvements, I drilled out the screw holes for the tweeters, drivers, and PRs, and installed hurricane nuts. I used a little dab of loctite power grab on the neck of each hurricane nut just to make sure I didn't end up with any spinners.
After a lot of counseling from westmassguy, I decided to build these to the specification of the latest crossover generation of the 7B, for use with the SL2500, and therefore I was able to use the RD-0198. Doing this mod required changing the inductors, I used Jantzens. I did the caps in Sonicap, used a Mills MRA resistor, and I replaced all wiring with Cardas Litz. I used gold plated copper binding posts from eBay. I replaced the grill cloth with Millstone Premium and the polyfill with Acoustastuff, both from Parts Express. I applied pieces of Blackhole 5 behind the drivers and tweeters. I used the stock tweeter gasket, but made Armacell seals for the drivers and PRs. And I dynamatted the driver and PR baskets. I also drilled out the pop rivet that held the fuse block to the binding post cup, and filled the three holes with small plugs.
The crossover components were too large to fit on the stock circuit board. westmassguy was kind enough to send me a masonite riser board and the replacement nylon mounting hardware I would need to construct a double-decker crossover. I undercounted the Mills resistor, installed two caps and one inductor on the board, and then the larger cap and inductor are on the riser board. I was a little worried that the cabinet wouldn't have enough depth to accommodate the larger crossover and that the back of the PR would not have enough room to clear. This was not the case, everything fit perfectly.
Right now I have them breaking in, it's not even 24 hours and they sound fantastic. I listened to them immediately after putting them together for about 3 hours, I couldn't believe how much the caps need proper break in. Those first few hours were really rough. They'd sound great, then not so great, then great, then not so great. Very dramatic changes in those first few hours. Now that they've been running for about 20 hours, they've calmed down and now they should just keep getting better and better.
Here are a few pics of the crossovers:
First of all, big huge thanks out to @westmassguy, @DarqueKnight, and @dkfreebird. The karma is strong with these three! Really appreciate the help from these guys!
These appear to be on of Polk's famous "in-between" pairs, where they were using up old parts on newer models. According to the specs for the 5B, the move from the Peerless tweeter to the SL2000 should have been accompanied by a polyswitch. The schematics show that the Peerless 5A's had a fuse. However, this was a pair of 5B's that still had a fuse rather than a polyswitch. The cabinet was clearly a 5B, with the beveled edge and the Polk logo on the grill, not the cabinet. But yet it had the fuse. Obviously Polk needed to run through their stock of the older crossover.
The cabinets were in pretty good shape, I'd give the laminate a solid 8/10. A couple of light scratches and dings, but they cleaned up pretty nice with some denatured alcohol.
In terms of improvements, I drilled out the screw holes for the tweeters, drivers, and PRs, and installed hurricane nuts. I used a little dab of loctite power grab on the neck of each hurricane nut just to make sure I didn't end up with any spinners.
After a lot of counseling from westmassguy, I decided to build these to the specification of the latest crossover generation of the 7B, for use with the SL2500, and therefore I was able to use the RD-0198. Doing this mod required changing the inductors, I used Jantzens. I did the caps in Sonicap, used a Mills MRA resistor, and I replaced all wiring with Cardas Litz. I used gold plated copper binding posts from eBay. I replaced the grill cloth with Millstone Premium and the polyfill with Acoustastuff, both from Parts Express. I applied pieces of Blackhole 5 behind the drivers and tweeters. I used the stock tweeter gasket, but made Armacell seals for the drivers and PRs. And I dynamatted the driver and PR baskets. I also drilled out the pop rivet that held the fuse block to the binding post cup, and filled the three holes with small plugs.
The crossover components were too large to fit on the stock circuit board. westmassguy was kind enough to send me a masonite riser board and the replacement nylon mounting hardware I would need to construct a double-decker crossover. I undercounted the Mills resistor, installed two caps and one inductor on the board, and then the larger cap and inductor are on the riser board. I was a little worried that the cabinet wouldn't have enough depth to accommodate the larger crossover and that the back of the PR would not have enough room to clear. This was not the case, everything fit perfectly.
Right now I have them breaking in, it's not even 24 hours and they sound fantastic. I listened to them immediately after putting them together for about 3 hours, I couldn't believe how much the caps need proper break in. Those first few hours were really rough. They'd sound great, then not so great, then great, then not so great. Very dramatic changes in those first few hours. Now that they've been running for about 20 hours, they've calmed down and now they should just keep getting better and better.
Here are a few pics of the crossovers:
Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
Comments
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Looks great Neil, Glad I could help.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
WTG Neil! Nice one & Enjoy them. Time to get some burn in.2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge
HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD -
Glad I could help in some small way.This forum has helped me in a lot of ways and it is good to give back.Those crossovers look like a stack of goodness,enjoy them as they break in.2 Channel
Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
Musical Fidelity M6Si
North Star Intenso Dac
Auralic Aries Mini Streamer
Oppo 103
Pangea PC
Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers
Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre -
The other thing that keeps helping these speakers during the initial break in is continual tightening of the armacell seals. Couldnt really push the bass too much while the seals hadn't flattened out yet, the bond needed to tighten up. I've been able to twist the screws a couple of turns on three or four occasions, that's helped a ton.Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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Really having a good time breaking these things in. I'm just about at the 150 hour point, and they just sound really, really nice. I forgot how great the old Monitors sound, I haven't owned a pair in almost 30 years.
I decided to use the receiver they're going to be paired with during the break-in, rather than my Krell, I figured I'd get used to the sound. So what I've done is basically re-create the first real stereo I ever bought myself, which was a pair of 5B's and the Harman Kardon HK990Vxi receiver, which I picked up on eBay for $125. I must say I'm truly impressed. I'm remembering back to owning this same gear at 20 years old and loving it. No, it's not the SDA's powered by the Krell, but considering what I paid for this little hi-fi for my apartment, I don't really feel like I'm sacrificing all that much. This sounds beautiful. I had good taste when I bought this same stereo back in college!Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance. -
Glad you're enjoying them Neil. I must admit, I was a doubter with respect to "burn-in" when I got back into audio. In my opinion, the better the Cap, the more pronounced the change can be. I never noticed it with Daytons, but Sonicaps, and Clarity ESAs, definitely. Same with cables. Never paid attention, until I upgraded mine, within my budget. The change has been slower, but it's there.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
The first 20 hours or so it was very pronounced. Since then, they just seem to keep sounding better and better. A lot of the improvement in the beginning is attributable to continuing to tighten down the armacell seals on the drivers and the PRs. But that was done days ago, and since then the speakers just continue to get more and more tight, detailed, and articulate. I'm doing a lot of repeat loops on my Squeezebox, so I'm hearing the same music over and over, it's really cool how much tighter the speakers have gotten. I can even see the difference in the way the drivers are moving. The MWs seemed to flutter a lot more in the early hours of break in. Now the vibrations in the MWs seem to look much more tight and defined. Maybe it's all just that nasty placebo effect again
Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance. -
I agree on the break in although I did at first thought it to be a load of crap. I recapped my monitor 10's myself including resistors. I used Sonicaps and mills. Also replaced the tweets and all the other recommended upgrades. I have about 400hrs on them and they really sound great. I can tell a big improvement from day one.The best way to predict the future is to invent it.
It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact. -
Great job on those 5'sThe best way to predict the future is to invent it.
It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact. -
Nice
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motorhead43026 wrote: »I agree on the break in although I did at first thought it to be a load of crap. I recapped my monitor 10's myself including resistors. I used Sonicaps and mills. Also replaced the tweets and all the other recommended upgrades. I have about 400hrs on them and they really sound great. I can tell a big improvement from day one.
So much of this hobby is a load of crap until you experience it.
You are exactly correct, the more I get into it the more I realize. I think some may not have equipment that will reflect the differences.Pio Elete Pro 520
Panamax 5400-EX
Sunfire TGP 5
Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
PS Audio GCPH phono pre
Sunfire CG 200 X 5
Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
OPPO BDP-83 SE
SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
Ctr CS1000p
Sur - FX1000 x 4
SUB - SVS PB2-Plus
Workkout room:
Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
Onkyo TX-DS898
GFA 555
Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
Ft - SDA 1C
Not being used:
RTi 38's -4
RT55i's - 2
RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
LSI 15's
CSi40
PSW 404 -
motorhead43026 wrote: »I agree on the break in although I did at first thought it to be a load of crap. I recapped my monitor 10's myself including resistors. I used Sonicaps and mills. Also replaced the tweets and all the other recommended upgrades. I have about 400hrs on them and they really sound great. I can tell a big improvement from day one.
So much of this hobby is a load of crap until you experience it.
You are exactly correct, the more I get into it the more I realize. I think some may not have equipment that will reflect the differences.
...and as you get deeper into the hobby, you realize THAT load of crap isn't quite that anymore. What always gets me is the majority of cable naysayers are those who focus on HT more than music.
Look at my last post on the McCormack DNA 1Pio Elete Pro 520
Panamax 5400-EX
Sunfire TGP 5
Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
PS Audio GCPH phono pre
Sunfire CG 200 X 5
Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
OPPO BDP-83 SE
SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
Ctr CS1000p
Sur - FX1000 x 4
SUB - SVS PB2-Plus
Workkout room:
Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
Onkyo TX-DS898
GFA 555
Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
Ft - SDA 1C
Not being used:
RTi 38's -4
RT55i's - 2
RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
LSI 15's
CSi40
PSW 404 -
motorhead43026 wrote: »I agree on the break in although I did at first thought it to be a load of crap. I recapped my monitor 10's myself including resistors. I used Sonicaps and mills. Also replaced the tweets and all the other recommended upgrades. I have about 400hrs on them and they really sound great. I can tell a big improvement from day one.
So much of this hobby is a load of crap until you experience it.
You are exactly correct, the more I get into it the more I realize. I think some may not have equipment that will reflect the differences.
...and as you get deeper into the hobby, you realize THAT load of crap isn't quite that anymore. What always gets me is the majority of cable naysayers are those who focus on HT more than music.
Look at my last post on the McCormack DNA 1
I saw it. I'm happy for you. I wouldn't mind trying McCormack, but not in the cards just yet.
Cables made a world of difference, I thought the MIT's would be best, a synergy thing I guess??Pio Elete Pro 520
Panamax 5400-EX
Sunfire TGP 5
Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
PS Audio GCPH phono pre
Sunfire CG 200 X 5
Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
OPPO BDP-83 SE
SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
Ctr CS1000p
Sur - FX1000 x 4
SUB - SVS PB2-Plus
Workkout room:
Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
Onkyo TX-DS898
GFA 555
Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
Ft - SDA 1C
Not being used:
RTi 38's -4
RT55i's - 2
RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
LSI 15's
CSi40
PSW 404
