Drywall question

kevhed72

I am ready to run receptacle box in my audio room. I plan on using 1/2 drywall everywhere, including the ceiling. What I cannot remember.....is there a direction to run drywall on the ceilings where the strength of the drywall is higher to prevent sagging. I thought you want to run the long sides opposite the direction the studs are running, but it been about 10 years since I did this last. Any comments appreciated....

WilliamM2

Perpendicular to the ceiling joists, if that's what you mean.

mrbiron

No, there is no difference.
User preference.

gdb

Always hang it perpendicular to the framing and preferably no butt-end joints. (get longer sheets) If butt joints are unavoidable, it's a huge help to double up the framing with a 4' "scab" to give you a full 3" to make the butt easier and a lot more durable. Rented lift/hoist devices are a Godsend when putting wallboard on ceilings !! Worth EVERY penny. http://www.insidewoodworking.com/drywall_lift.html

gdb

OMG, "but" with an extra t isn't allowed on this playground during recess ! For real ????

gdb

There's 'bout half a million how-to vids on youtube.

http://youtu.be/FRch-ZV66fk

kevhed72

gdb wrote: »

Always hang it perpendicular to the framing and preferably no butt-end joints. (get longer sheets) If butt joints are unavoidable, it's a huge help to double up the framing with a 4' "scab" to give you a full 3" to make the butt easier and a lot more durable. Rented lift/hoist devices are a Godsend when putting wallboard on ceilings !! Worth EVERY penny. http://www.insidewoodworking.com/drywall_lift.html

A b uuu t t joint being? I think I get you but hate to guess....thx

WastelandWand'r

Might want to check, but some areas call for 5/8 on the ceilings. (Fire)
Perpendicular to joists, and I will make a suggestion, let someone else do it.
When Satan was thrown out, he took drywall with him and cursed the human race with it.
A young mans game.
If not, have fun and measure three times and cut twice!! Get a drywall square.
Nathan

gdb

That joint that shall remain nameless.......... is the 4 foot long, un-tapered ends of the sheet & where the two ends meet by splitting on a 1 1/2" width of framing. Getting them fastened cleanly is tough enough for the pros, that's why I recommend using another length of 2by added to the side of the framing. It's a breeze to make the joint over a 3" space. and not make the ends look like a pinched up pie-crust. I've hung and finished several acres worth of sheetrock in my day, none of it is much fun. ( I always had a decent grade boombox playing the tunes during the festivities ! ) Edit: Yeah, we put 5/8" firecode rated sheets on ceilings most of the time.

WagnerRC

is this is a basement? if it is you might want to look into z strip too

kevhed72

gdb wrote: »

That joint that shall remain nameless.......... is the 4 foot long, un-tapered ends of the sheet & where the two ends meet by splitting on a 1 1/2" width of framing. Getting them fastened cleanly is tough enough for the pros, that's why I recommend using another length of 2by added to the side of the framing. It's a breeze to make the joint over a 3" space. and not make the ends look like a pinched up pie-crust. I've hung and finished several acres worth of sheetrock in my day, none of it is much fun. ( I always had a decent grade boombox playing the tunes during the festivities ! ) Edit: Yeah, we put 5/8" firecode rated sheets on ceilings most of the time.

Go it. I am actually going to run 2 x 4 s perpendicular to the floor joists, screw them in, and fasten the sheets for the ceiling to that. This is a bit overkill but will be easier to run the wiring for both lights and the 3 runs of romex 10 2 for my 3 dedicated circuits.

WilliamM2

kevhed72 wrote: »

Go it. I am actually going to run 2 x 4 s perpendicular to the floor joists, screw them in, and fasten the sheets for the ceiling to that. This is a bit overkill but will be easier to run the wiring for both lights and the 3 runs of romex 10 2 for my 3 dedicated circuits.

How will that make it easier to run wiring? Around here we drill holes in the floor joists and run it through them, or staple to the sides of them if running parallel. If you're thinking of tacking it to the side of the 2x4's, I don't think it meets code, and you may pierce one with a drywall screw.

gdb

Do not forget to use a bunch of adhesive for the ceiling sheets.

mrbiron

Adhesive on a the ceiling....wtf?

Using 5/8 is only necessary for fire rating for separation from an a joined unit. In single family dettached, 1/2 is fine. Only use 5/8 type C if your worried about noise transmission.

Use strapping (metal or wood) instead of 2x4s. Then you can run on the bottom of the joists.

Adding a 2x4 every 3rd joist does make the joint much cleaner instead of the mention pie crust.

Install the sheets in whichever fashion maximizes material. Plan your approach

1-5/8 wood screws.

I own a hoist. Its short money for ease of install.

gdb

WTF indeed. Where TF are you located and in what type of building do you not use adhesive on ceiling panels ? Nail/screw "pops" will show up almost the next day without it. (unless you like those)................. 5/8" drywall's added thickness and rigidity makes for a nicer flatter looking install, whether it's required by local codes or not. (IMO) Aren't you the one that said either direction was fine............. LOL

tonyb

Know the best way to install drywall on a ceiling ?

Pay someone else to do it......just a tip from your Uncle Tony.

zingo

I had to use 5/8 in my garage, because of fire code, but the rest of my 1955 house was also 5/8 drywall for whatever reason.

decal

tonyb wrote: »

Know the best way to install drywall on a ceiling ?

Pay someone else to do it......just a tip from your Uncle Tony.

Amen BrotherT

mrbiron

I'm a GC in the great state of mass with over 2500 apartment units under my belt. Who the F uses adhesive on drywall......

We have hot & humid, cold and dry and seldom have screw pops or screw sinks. BUT.....we use metal channel on MOST of our ceilings for noise transmission between units which also helps in pops/sinks. Never have we ever added adhesive. If its a proven method elsewhere, and actually does a damn, I say do it but its seems like overkill to me.

nooshinjohn

tonyb wrote: »

Know the best way to install drywall on a ceiling ?

Pay someone else to do it......just a tip from your Uncle Tony.

I will go one further and say let someone else do the entire job, including the mud and tape.

Paint and carpet and I am done with the mancave and my back is grateful that I can enjoy it.

tonyb

Mud and tape is where the skill comes in, and the most important if you ask me.

voltz

^^^^^
agreed, after doing a living room & 3 bedrooms and hallway in my folks old house all my mud & tape mistakes just starred back at me, most don't notice it but I do.

Msabot1

My solution....go hire a couple of Mexicans to do it.....those boys can hang some drywall.....

treitz3

Forget about the adhesive. Rent a sheet rock lifter and use 5/8" 12' sheets. Don't punch the screws through the paper layer of the sheet rock. Make sure that the butt joints are sister studded and/or fastened securely to an existing stud and look into a product called Levelline. This can be seen below;



This will give you laser straight lines at all of your corners, provided your sheet rock install was completed properly, and is much easier (and long term reliable) than Straightflex or paper tape. If you were aiming for a level 5 finish, then some parameters need to change at the butt joints and finishing process but this should get you to a good level 4 finish....which 95+% of houses in America are max. spec'd too.

Use a flashlight slapped up against the wall to find and/or correct any unwanted bumps, waves or other abnormalities BEFORE you go to prime or paint. Just don't get too hung up on perfection with this process or you will drive yourself nuckin' futz. It's much easier to correct any issues using the flashlight than it is to correct things after painting and priming have started. One note - If you can see any imperfections with the flashlight trick, you will see the same thing after the walls are primed and painted....without the flashlight. This becomes exemplified when any sheen above Satin or Eggshell are to be used on the drywall.

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask. Been doing this long enough to do it in my sleep.

Tom

tonyb

Msabot1 wrote: »

My solution....go hire a couple of Mexicans to do it.....those boys can hang some drywall.....

Yep, they can hang it fast too.....straight is another matter, along with gaps that require half a pail of mud. lol

Msabot1

Yea...come to think of it..I've had to tone out quite a few buried data and video outlets...but there is no doubt about them being fast...LOL!

exalted512

Hanging drywall with a lift isnt a big deal, but your neck will hurt and it's time consuming.

I hung all the dry wall in my little 650 sq ft shop-house. We have low ceilings which made it cake.

Taping and floating on the other hand, sucks. Big time. I built my entire shop (2000 sq ft with 650 sq ft of living area) and did the entire thing except for the slab and...taping and floating. I refuse to do an area bigger than 25 sq ft. Walls aren't that bad, but still bad enough where I paid someone to do it.
-Cody

nooshinjohn

Msabot1 wrote: »

My solution....go hire a couple of Mexicans to do it.....those boys can hang some drywall.....

Yes they can, but I am still fixing the joints a bit.. I seek PERFECTION in my Polkie Palace.

polk500

gdb wrote: »

Do not forget to use a bunch of adhesive for the ceiling sheets.

Listen to this guy he knows how to hang dry wall and PL 4000 or the like for ceiling with screws and don't forget the soundproofing in the ceiling.

Good luck
Roger

mrbiron

polk500 wrote: »

Listen to this guy he knows how to hang dry wall and PL 4000 or the like for ceiling with screws and don't forget the soundproofing in the ceiling.

What the what????? PL4000, why thats 10x stickier than PL400..........Must be a hybrid mix between Dap's 4000 and Loctite PL

What's the point of screws if you're using PL400? The adhesive has a stronger holding bond than the screws ever will. I say just lick it and stick it.

WilliamM2

mrbiron wrote: »

What's the point of screws if you're using PL400? The adhesive has a stronger holding bond than the screws ever will. I say just lick it and stick it.

Without screws you will have to hold the sheet in place until the adhesive dries...