rta 11tl series 9007589

freeparty

Tweeter sl3000 doesn t work
i test it without crossower and it is ok
i have problems with components
the yellow condenser have not a value and have upside a blu condenser in parallel with value 12 micro farad, the others condenser value 34 micro and 12 micro
can i have an upgrades scheme with the right values?
Thank s a lot
please sen me scheme at
a.belloni@starktools.com

soundfreak1

You can find all the specs under "vintage speakers"

agfrost

You've come to the right place. Here's the schematic (schematics available at the top of the 'vintage speakers' subforum. https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/4/6/7/2/8/18708.pdf

If you haven't done so, I highly recommend swapping your tweeters between speakers to see if the problem follows the tweeter (showing a tweeter issue) or if it stays with the speaker (showing a potential crossover problem). Additionally you can reverse your speaker cables to rule out any problems in your electronics and power.

Many (including me) have upgraded their RTA11TL's. The "common wisdom" has been to use Sonicaps in the 12uF and 16uF positions at least; I chose to use a more economical Dayton 34uF in the 33uF position, but you can custom-order a Sonicap in that value if you so desire. Soniccraft.com carries these caps, and also Mills MRA-12W resistors to replace the 1.5 ohm resistor. I chose to remove/jumper the polyswitch when I did my crossovers.

Finally, you may opt to replace both tweeters with Polk replacement tweeter RD0-198. This is a direct swap and an improvement over the SL-3000.

freeparty

Thank you but my speaker was assembled in '91 and the crossover scheme is dated '90
My crossover is different and have silver mica 750 pf with paraller 12 microf for tweeter cut while scheme put an 16 microf with anoer electrolitic 12 microf!!!
is it true?
Sl3000 works well, i test them and it is strange that both speakers brakes in the mean time!! Only drivers works well
your opinion?

freeparty

Sorry i forget to tell you that i m italian so it not so easy choose what you suggest me
can you suggest an alternative?

agfrost

If you use a poly-film cap, I don't think you will want to replace the 750pf bypass cap--That 750pf cap was used because the 12uF was a low-quality electrolytic cap. A better quality film/foil cap will make it unnecessary to replace it.

Read here: http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/85728/sda-1c-xo-upgrade-750pf-cap-questions

That thread is about a different model speaker, but the idea is the same.

See this thread about an 11TL crossover, in which the 16uF value was reached with a 12uF electrolytic paralleled with a 4uF mylar cap: http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/68802/rta11tl-crossover

agfrost

This ebay store on has Ampohm capacitors in both 16uF and 12uF. They are pretty large in size, but all film/foil caps are compared to electrolytics.
http://stores.ebay.it/Goods-Stall/_i.html?_nkw=capacitor+ampohm&submit=Cerca&_sid=895257737

You could look at Clarity Caps brand, their SA line is made in 12uF and 16uF.

agfrost

I believe I had a newer crossover, but it is mostly the same:

Original:


After my upgrades:

freeparty

Thank you a lot
do you change also induttance?in your pic it looks like different about the old one
have a nice week end

freeparty

Ampohm capacitors 630V? This is not so much?

freeparty

I check on ebay for 12 and 16 condenser but i didn t find 34 micro for drivers
do you have an idea?
You chanced also resistor, why?

freeparty

You wrote also you remuved/jumper the polyswitch, can you show me where?

agfrost

I changed the resistor to higher quality Mills 12-watt ones: http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/resm1085-mra12-mills-resistor-p-1281.html

Mundorf has a 33uF cap, also at hificollective: http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/-c-61_68_419.html

I changed the inductors because the crossover in one of my two speakers was the wrong one (from the factory!) , and had a different value inductor. I bought two new so they would match. See here: http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/84490/help-me-plan-troubleshoot-my-11tl-crossover-redo

I believe I was mistaken: I do not think the 11TL had a polyswitch, so no need to remove it. Does yours have one?

freeparty

I dont know what ispolyswitch......can you explain me?

freeparty

Mundorf havent 16 micro , only 15........you suggest to make 15+1 in parallel?
Thank you for your help

agfrost

I tried to post a while back, but got a message that my post needed to be approved (?)

You can use the Ampohm's for the 12uF and 16uF values, and then the Mundorf for the 33uF. In my crossover above, I have Sonicaps on the smaller values and Dayton for the 33.

The polyswitch is a "automatically resetting fuse" that protects the tweeter from damage. It does its job, but the speakers sound better without it in place. Your speaker crossovers may not have one. When the polyswitch is removed, a person can either just add a jumper (cut-off wire from a capacitor, perhaps); but many add a high-quality resistor in its place, to keep the total resistance the same as it was. The most common value is 0.5 ohms, some go smaller with as little as 0.2 ohm.

Here's a photo of my original SDA 2B crossover: The little blue disc (below the yellow cap) in the "S1" position is the polyswitch.


Here's a different version of the polyswitch, this one (from a RTA11T (not 11TL) is yellow:

agfrost

You could try the Ampohm's in 12 and 16, then the Mundorf in

If you make the 16 out of two caps, 8 + 8 is better than 15 +1.

The polyswitch is a sort of "automatically resetting fuse" that protects the tweeter. It does make the tweeter sound less good, so if a person has plenty of clean power from his amp and doesn't go crazy with too much volume, it's OK to replace the polyswitch with either a jumper (perhaps a trimmed-off lead from a resistor or capacitor) or with a small, quality resistor (to replace the resistance of the polyswitch). People who use the resistor use a value between 0.2 ohms and 0.5 ohms, the 0.5 is used most often.

If your crossover has a polyswitch (it may not!) it will look like a thin disc. Here's a picture that shows the polyswitch from my SDA 2B crossover, it's the little blue part in the "S1" postion below the yellow capacitor.


Here's a picture of someone's RTA11T (NOT RTA11TL!!) original crossover. The polyswitch on it is the little yellow part. http://webpages.charter.net/btreinen/images/speakertweak/old cross side.jpg

agfrost

You could try the Ampohm's in 12 and 16, then the Mundorf in

If you make the 16 out of two caps, 8 + 8 is better than 15 +1.

The polyswitch is a sort of "automatically resetting fuse" that protects the tweeter. It does make the tweeter sound less good, so if a person has plenty of clean power from his amp and doesn't go crazy with too much volume, it's OK to replace the polyswitch with either a jumper (perhaps a trimmed-off lead from a resistor or capacitor) or with a small, quality resistor (to replace the resistance of the polyswitch). People who use the resistor use a value between 0.2 ohms and 0.5 ohms, the 0.5 is used most often.

If your crossover has a polyswitch (it may not!) it will look like a thin disc. Here's a picture that shows the polyswitch from my SDA 2B crossover, it's the little blue part in the "S1" postion below the yellow capacitor.


Here's a picture of someone's RTA11T (NOT RTA11TL!!) original crossover. The polyswitch on it is the little yellow part. http://webpages.charter.net/btreinen/images/speakertweak/old cross side.jpg

freeparty

Hi, finally i found the capacitors and crossower work well but.........i destroy sl3000 while i test them....unbelievable........nkw in italy no service, do you know who can sell a secondchand tweeter but i hope thatcshipping charges and custom tax will be too expensive
thank you for your help

agfrost

Well, the SL3000 is no longer made. You could order a pair of RD0-198 replacement tweeters from Polk, which are a replacement that requires no modifications, or keep an eye on eBay, or start a "new discussion" in the "Want to Buy (WTB)" section here on the Polk forum website--perhaps someone has one they are willing to sell.


Best of luck!

freeparty

Ok but is it possible buy only coil without magnet?

pitdogg2

freeparty wrote: »

Ok but is it possible buy only coil without magnet?

Nope that won't work as in my experience the dome is glued to the bezel. I used to have some Peerless tweeters that you could switch out a "butterfly" (dome and voice coil) with a 10 second switch but Polk tweeters are not like that. I'd just order two new from CP.

freeparty

In italy nobody sell polk spare parts....do you think i can use a similar?

agfrost

I don't know enough to say--It would be tricky and would risk ruining a fine speaker.

I'm not sure what your budget is, but if you keep an eye on eBay USA and/or post a want-to-buy ad here, that seems your best bet to get your speakers back to 100%.

freeparty

On ebay usa there are only sl 2000......nobody want to deliver in italy........