RTA 11t

pitdogg2

oldrocker wrote: »

Looking at the “defective” MW 6510 I took out. When I hold it and slightly try to rotate the magnet, it actually turns some. Is this “magnet” shift? The frame, dust cap, surround and cone look perfect even the seal on the back looks excellent. I’ve never had a magnet turn that easily in my hand. The other issue is when I push in on the driver it does not move at all. The original sticker says Jan 5-1989.

you bet it is. Frozen says it all, you may be able to turn enough to free it up but I'd say toast

Nightfall

Why do the 11s get so much love here? Besides geppy I feel like the 12s are the **** child of the RTA series on Club Polk. Have you guys heard the mirror imaged (B and C only) RTA12s?

oldrocker

Thanks, now I know what it looks like, I have ordered a new driver. When you say turn enough to free it up does that mean agressive turning back and forth or slow turning? I do notice the "voice coil" wired send to rotate also pullin on the rubber surround.

pitdogg2 wrote: »

you bet it is. Frozen says it all, you may be able to turn enough to free it up but I'd say toast

pitdogg2

oldrocker wrote: »

Thanks, now I know what it looks like, I have ordered a new driver. When you say turn enough to free it up does that mean agressive turning back and forth or slow turning? I do notice the "voice coil" wired send to rotate also pullin on the rubber surround.

side to side will more than likely is what is needed not twist.

oldrocker

Ok thanks, only goes in a circle motion, no side to side. Something learned new.
Thanks.

pitdogg2

that is why a jig is needed to push upper one way and lower another until you get it centered.

westmassguy

Nightfall wrote: »

Why do the 11s get so much love here? Besides geppy I feel like the 12s are the **** child of the RTA series on Club Polk. Have you guys heard the mirror imaged (B and C only) RTA12s?

No not at all. The 12s are great as well, just a different design

Mystery

Nightfall wrote: »

Why do the 11s get so much love here? Besides geppy I feel like the 12s are the **** child of the RTA series on Club Polk. Have you guys heard the mirror imaged (B and C only) RTA12s?

If you check my earlier threads, I kept RTA-11T much longer than SDA-2B's.
I liked 12's as well but they were too big for my small space at that time.

Sea

I had a frozen driver and was able to "fix" (at least it has worked for 2 months or so) by using the information posted by westmassguy, I have copied it below.

"To the OP, I re-foam, re-edge, and recone drivers for a living. The jig mentioned is excellent, but if you're not handy, and don't have the materials on hand to make it, your better off just buying a replacement woofer. However, if you are handy, and don't mind doing a little cutting, there is a method I've used on several MW Series Polk Drivers. First, CAREFULLY cut the dust cap. Use a sharp exacto, scalpele, utility knife, etc. Start your cut about an 1/8" in from the edge of the cap, and gently cut almost all the way around. You should leave about 3/8" uncut, so the cap can be folded back. Or just cut it off completely, and get a new dust cap. Keep a vacuum handy, since you don't want any debris to fall down inside. Now look carefully inside. You'll see the pole piece in the center, surrounded by the voice coil former. Normally there's a tiny air gap between the pole and the former that is equal all the way around. With the magnet shifted, there will be a gap on one side, and no gap on the other. You'll need to find or make some shims. Old 35mm photo negatives are perfect, but any paper thin PLASTIC will do. DO NOT use paper or cardboard of any kind, as this can break-off or tear. You'll want to cut the shim about 1/2"- 3/4" wide, by 2" long. Cut two or three as you may need to build up the thickness. Now insert one shim in the large air gap, sliding it all the way till it bottoms out. If it feels loose, slide another shim down right on top of the other one. Now comes the fun part. On a flat surface, counter, etc., with the cone facing up and the magnet down, you're going to GENTLY tap the magnet from the side opposite where the shims are. I use a small sheetmetal hammer, but a claw hammer will work too. The hammer should be flat against the counter, and basically slid over to the magnet. You must hold the driver's frame steady while your doing this. Give it a couple taps, and check the gap. If the magnet shifted back, there should be a gap on the side opposite the shims now. If not, try again, with a little more force. If done correctly, the magnet will have shifted enough to safely remove the shims, and the voice coil will now travel freely. It may take several tries, and you may overshoot, and have the shims wedged too tight, or the magnet shifted, but off to one side. Keep at it. I've had some that re-centered on the 1st tap, while others took numerous tries, and I ended up feeling like a golpher missing a 2' putt 20 times in a row. Remember, it's a ceramic magnet, so it may chip a little when the hammer strikes it. If all goes well, and the cone moves freely with no rubbing, you can carefully reglue the old dust cap, or buy a new one. Give it a shot, the driver is toast now anyway, nothing to loose, but lot's to gain if successful.
If all was successful, use epoxy or JBWeld to secure the magnet in place."

Give it a try. Worth a try. You may nc with a spare.

oldrocker

Sea,
Thanks for posting the info, appreciated!

oldrocker

Been running the 11's for a while with the new drivers, actually replaced them all just to keep it consistent. Sound has improved. Up next is the tweeter replacements. The left one sounded a tad weaker, switched them out against each other and the sound improved.

westmassguy

EndersShadow wrote: »

I responded to your PM oldrocker, but just so its here as well.

The difference between the T and TL series has to do with the xover (what specifically I couldnt tell you). The T version uses the SL2000 tweeter which is replaced by the RDO 194. The TL version uses the SL3000 which is replaced by the RDO 198.

The difference is so small that if you upgrade the crossovers with the addition of I think one resistor you can make the T into the TL model, and IIRC most folks do that.

There are several changes between the stock "T" version crossover and the "TL".
Different Capacitor, Resistor and Shunt Inductor values

freeparty

I m looking for sl 3000
who can supply to me 2 pcs to italy?
Please write me to
A.belloni@starktools.com

westmassguy

freeparty wrote: »

I m looking for sl 3000
who can supply to me 2 pcs to italy?
Please write me to
A.belloni@starktools.com

1st, your thread crapping. 2nd, never put your email in a post. 3rd, call Polk Customer Service, and purchase the new RDO-198-1 Tweeters, that are improved replacements for the SL3000. Tell them you're a member of Club Polk, and you'll get a discount.

westmassguy

paul81 wrote: »

I have Polk RTA 11TLs in black. Awesome sound, love them forever, but moving to smaller space and wife says they must go. What's the best way to sell these quickly for a reasonable price?

You're not going to sell them here. You just joined, have two posts, and both are about selling your 11TLs

paul81

Wasn't trying to sell them here. Polk Customer Service suggested the forum for advice. Thats it. My apologies.