Removable Side Cloth On SDA-SRS

stogie
stogie Posts: 230
edited May 2014 in Vintage Speakers
Almost all the cloth (with the excetion of the strips along the rear edge) on these speakers have been damaged by a cat, I beleive. The front cloth seems realtivey staight forward to replace but the side panels are a different story. From what I have read here, the sides are glued to the enclosure in an "S" pattern and need to be worked off with a putty knife or similar tool. It appears the board under the side cloth is not a solid piece. There seem to be three large areas under the cloth that do not have any board behind them- like it is framed. I guess, since it will be replaced anyway, the cloth can be cut to see what's underneath. Anyone with any thoughts/experience/tips/tricks?

Since the side cloth on the rear edge is in great shape, I was going to leave it intact. That being said, any cloth recommenedation that is close to texture and color of the original cloth. Or should I just go ahead and replace those rear strips too, so it all matches?
Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
Tuner: Sansui TU-717
TT: Technics SL-MA1
Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
Post edited by stogie on

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited May 2014
    IIRC, those side panels pop off.

    Replace all the cloth as you'll never get a match to the original.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • bikezappa
    bikezappa Posts: 2,463
    edited May 2014
    How do you pop off the side panels? Are there photos showing the procedure?

    Thanks
  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    edited May 2014
    Yes, how do they pop off? What is "IIRC", sorry if stupid question. I think you are right about replacing all the cloth. Any recommended cloths that are both attractive and close to transparent?
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
  • bikezappa
    bikezappa Posts: 2,463
    edited May 2014
    I think Parts Express sells the correct cloth.
  • teekay0007
    teekay0007 Posts: 2,289
    edited May 2014
    stogie wrote: »
    What is "IIRC", sorry if stupid question.

    IIRC = If I Recall Correctly

    I asked the same question a while back....therefore, absolutely NOT a stupid question!
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited May 2014
    They are a frame like the front, they snap in place using the ball and cup. Grab it by the edge and gently pull.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited May 2014
    Parts Express sells suitable cloth, but it's not the exact same as what Polk used.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    edited May 2014
    I'll check out parts express. From past experiences I'll use the 3M spray adhesive. For me it worked so much better than a cheaper brand I tired- although that was for auto headliner replacement.

    Thanks for the IIRC info- I'll have to research the internet lingo
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    edited May 2014
    Thank you F1nut for the side panel removal info. I'll give it a shot in the AM. I guess the cloth does not have to be an exact replacement as long as both speakers look the same.
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
  • proffitt
    proffitt Posts: 157
    edited May 2014
    Stogie- I hope you are able to get them off in the way that F1Nut suggests. He's usually right, so I'd be very surprised if they weren't easy snap off. If by chance they are glued on, you are in for a bit of a project. But its possible. Either way, do it and don't put new cloth on the front and try to leave old cloth on the side.
    Mine (SDA SRS 2) were glued on. If any one else has landed here and has to take off the glued-on side panels, I took it on and came out a winner (barely). Some gotchas and "be careful for" tips are in the write up.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?138538-SDA-SRS-2-need-CPR-and-ICU-life-support&highlight=icu+life+support

    Side panels come off on the first page, with photos.
  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited May 2014
    stogie wrote: »
    From what I have read here, the sides are glued to the enclosure in an "S" pattern and need to be worked off with a putty knife or similar tool. It appears the board under the side cloth is not a solid piece. There seem to be three large areas under the cloth that do not have any board behind them- like it is framed. I guess, since it will be replaced anyway, the cloth can be cut to see what's underneath. Anyone with any thoughts/experience/tips/tricks?

    The SDA SRS side panels are held in place with tight plastic fasteners called trelocks. Use a putty knife or flat blade screwdriver to gently pry the side panels off. You can see pictures of the SRS with the side panels removed in figure 11 of this thread:

    Curly-Maple-End-Caps-and-Side-Strips-For-The-SDA-SRS

    The knit fabric I used to replace the stock grille cloth was "Ponte" cloth from Hancock Fabrics. It is lighter, thinner and more sonically transparent than the stock cloth.
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited May 2014
    Parts Express sells the typical stretchy knit you can buy anywhere, but the also sell a premium fabric:
    http://www.parts-express.com/mellotone-premium-black-speaker-grill-cloth-yard-64-wide--260-332
    I believe nspindle used it for one of his projects, so check with him.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    edited May 2014
    thanks dk and f1- worked like a charm, very tightly held on though. next is how to remove the wood strip from the side panel. it seems to be glued in. there are holes in the side panel behind where the wood strip fits, but no fasteners. can anyone help with removal technique? thank you
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
  • proffitt
    proffitt Posts: 157
    edited May 2014
    I would believe F1 that they are "supposed to be" snapped on, if the model was conveyed to him correctly. He knows. But.... Is there a chance that these were glued on after the fact, by a previous owner?
    If factory glued, see my link in previous post where I remove the factory glued panels. Pictures and tips included. It's a bear, but can and should be done if you are replacing any fabric. If they were glued on by someone else, not sure what you're into. Let us know.
  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    edited May 2014
    The entire side panel came off as F1 and DK stated. But mounted within the side panel is a strip of walnut which runs from top to bottom and does not want to come out. Before I do something that may cause damage, I was hoping someone has removed this before and could offer some advice. Thanks
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited May 2014
    stogie wrote: »
    The entire side panel came off as F1 and DK stated. But mounted within the side panel is a strip of walnut which runs from top to bottom and does not want to come out. Before I do something that may cause damage, I was hoping someone has removed this before and could offer some advice. Thanks

    I addressed this in the thread I linked to previously. This comment follows figure 12 in that thread:

    The solid oak side strips were held in place with twelve 5/8" long finishing nails. In addition to this, the left speaker's side strips were also glued down. The right speaker's side strips were nailed down with no glue. The left strip was removed with some difficulty because of the glue. The right strip was easily pried off with a small flat blade screwdriver. The nails were easily removed with the claw end of a hammer.

    I used 5/8 inch #8 flat head Phillips wood screws in the existing countersunk holes to secure the maple strips to the side panels.

    Curly-Maple-End-Caps-and-Side-Strips-For-The-SDA-SRS
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    edited May 2014
    DK, sorry my bad. I missed that in speed reading the thread yesterday- i'll try to slow down next time.
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    edited May 2014
    Wood insert came off the side panel but not without a fight. One down and three to go. Just go slow if you have to do this with your SRS's as the wood panel bends alot as you pry it off the length of the panel. This particular piece was nailed and glued. DK said that some of his were nailed only. I hope this is the case with the rest of them- should make removal easier.
    srs side panel wood insert.JPG
    Side panel with wood insert showing nails and glue
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
  • proffitt
    proffitt Posts: 157
    edited May 2014
    Obviously the nails came after the factory. Mine had been nailed too. If a previous owner had used nails!!!, imagine what else they could have done. Copious amounts of glue could be "after factory" too. As I experienced.

    Seems to be going well for you though. Mine were particle board under the fabric, and under the wood veneer. Some of the pieces under the fabric broke when they came off. I had to fabricate new ones out of really thin plywood. Thank goodness the veneer pieces did not break, don't know what I would have done then.

    Do you have to do any refinishing or sanding? Be careful if so, they are likely a real thin veneer. Sand with caution.
  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    edited May 2014
    I believe the nails are factory. DK's SRS's had the wood side strips nailed in on all four sides and, in addition, two of the sides pieces were glued also. See post #17 above. The nails were driven in from the backside of the side panels, not the front.

    The wood pieces are in great shape- no refinishing needed. They are solid wood, no veneer- walnut I believe.
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5