Recap burn-in
drumiv
Posts: 171
After recapping your cross-over's, did you guy's get immediate gratification, or was there a burn-in, as with receivers / amps?
Post edited by drumiv on
Comments
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You will notice a difference right away, but depending on the brand of caps it will take hundreds of hours before they settle.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
This^^^^^^^^
You'll get instant and extended gratification. Don't be surprised if they sound different from one day or week to the next, until the caps are fully burned in.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Thanks gents. My first impression was mixed. I thought the tweeters weren't working. Then, I realized we had just been listening to my JBL L112's, which could be considered "bright". After about 5 cd's, I started liking them a lot more. As far as caps go, I know there are Sonicaps, but not sure of the rest, although my tech posted a picture of one of the completed x/o's in another thread; "ready to upgrade my SRS X/O's". More break-in time today. Thanks again for your input.
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Ive used clairity caps and it tood 300 hours to FULLY settle in, but well worth the wait.. it was a roller coaster to that point sound was better, worse, better, better basically all over the place! But once complete, WOW!Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
JBL loved their Titanium Domes Tweeters. I hate them, way too bright, even piercing at times. I recapped and re-foamed a pair of L100-T3s for a customer a year ago. Tried everything to convince him to change to Textile Domes, but he wanted them all original. Said he liked the highs. To each his own.
Sonicaps 150-200 hours at least for burn-in. It's silky smooth after that..Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
I thought as much about the burn-in, just needed a little positive reinforcement. They sounded so good before pulling the x/o's. I guess I was expecting an "Oh-my-Gawd" moment with the recap. Thanks again.
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Well, what a difference a day makes. WOW! Today (yesterday, actually), the tweeters seemed to much, and the bass not enough. Definitely going through some changes. However, all of a sudden, on about the 6th cd(Weather Report / Mysterious Traveler), the sound stage got huge. At one point, the speakers disappeared, and the sound was coming from 280*. Very cool. I can't wait 'till they totally break-in. Here's where you can say, "I- told-ya-so". Hats off to my tech,embrowno57,and Jeff at Sonicraft.
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If possible, set your cdp to "Repeat All" and let them cook 24/7 for a few days, any kind of signal will do.
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Mike Reeter wrote: »If possible, set your cdp to "Repeat All" and let them cook 24/7 for a few days, any kind of signal will do.
Was going to suggest something similar, but would use something like Pandora so you don't you don't cook your drive mechanism at the same time...Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV(4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)(2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)Polk CS300 center channelAnalog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-RayBedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets -
Was going to suggest something similar, but would use something like Pandora so you don't you don't cook your drive mechanism at the same time...
Yep, like I said, any kind of signal will do. -
Good idea, thanks.
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Just 200+ hours left till audio nirvana.
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New guy here. I've had some Monitor4's for 25 years and I just picked up a pair of Monitor10's in apparently good condition ... they sound great.
Soon I'll pull the drivers and glue the magnets and do the dynamat thing. Eventually I'll do the crossovers.
Here is my new guy question that may make me sound really stupid. I am a novice when it comes to electronics. Is there a way to "burn-in" the crossover components before you install them? -
Here is my new guy question that may make me sound really stupid. I am a novice when it comes to electronics. Is there a way to "burn-in" the crossover components before you install them?
Welcome to Club Polk, enjoy your speakers!Jay
SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0 -
There's just no substitute for burn in using "real music". Unlike electrolytic caps film caps like PP take longer for the disarray of electrons and dipoles to align. As far as "pre conditioning" you may get some break-in but that's subjective at best. The more power/current you can put into the speaker/crossover will speed up the process but all in all you'll just have to do as we all do, hurry up and Waite.
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Thanks guys. I suspect when I get around to the xo's that I'll have to follow "standard protocol." But I'm not convinced there isn't a way around that. I just don't know what it is, if it does exist.
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Thanks guys. I suspect when I get around to the xo's that I'll have to follow "standard protocol." But I'm not convinced there isn't a way around that. I just don't know what it is, if it does exist.
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Just turn on the radio and let them go
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Not convinced? Well the scientist are still looking for the "GOD" particle. So if you do find a way around it let them know, your up for the Noble Prize. Anyway look at it like this. I guitar player buys a brand new top of the line Custom built ax. It sounds good right from the luthier's hands. He spend 10k+ on all the exotic woods and inlays. He still finds it's not quite up to what he expected. He play's that instrument for a few months and it starts to come alive. The more he uses it the better it sounds. He could have gone out and purchased a used ax that's been played but he found out long time ago it was a "hit and miss'. He knew he had to play "his music" to condition the instrument to his style and jandra. Let us know if you have a epiphany and find a way around it. Please excuse me if I sound a little curt. I get this all this time with customers and there restored amps and receivers. I tell them the same thing and low and behold after a few weeks or so they ALWAYS call me and say "it just coming alive" and can't believe the sound of this unit. We all want instant gratification, were human but something's take time.
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I have good news, there is a way around it. You roast them on an open fire until golden brown.....yummy!!!Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I don't dispute anything you say embrown. But I never disputed the reality of break-in/burn-in/conditioning. And I prefaced my question as saying that I knew it might sound stupid.
But despite your self-described "curt" response I am still not convinced that it is impossible to break-in resistors and capacitors outside the context of where they will ultimately be used. Wire them up and run something through them. You actually said that the more power/current you run through them the better. Why can't that be done outside of a speaker?
Nevertheless, as I have already said, I expect to go through the conditioning process within the speaker. I just won't be able run them 24 hours a day until they "settle in" and as you've already said I'll just have to hurry up and wait.
I'm not here to be argumentative. I love my Polks and I want to learn more about them.
Thanks to all who responded to my question. -
Why can't that be done outside of a speaker?
With what?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC
Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords
I’M OFFENDED!!!! -
With what?
What goes through them inside of a speaker? Why can't it go through them outside of a speaker? I'm sure that caps and resistors have other applications than inside of speakers.
Look. I'm not expecting to uncover a great process here. Even if it can be done to some degree I think embrown was saying that the best way to break these puppies in is to use them inside of the system they will be used in ... the relationship of the parts being greater than the sum of the parts or something like that. I can buy that.
I just asked a question. And while it may be a weird question and not standard protocol it may be an interesting experiment for somebody.
I strongly suspect that are some Nobel Prize winners who started out by pursuing a lead that did not fit "standard protocol." -
Good night everyone.
I'll be lurking in the days ahead trying to learn a little here and there. Occasionally I'll ask a question if I can't find my answer. But I seriously doubt that I'll have any more Nobel Prize aspiring questions. -
Sure you could wire up external crossovers and run a signal thru them, but what's the point? Just more work to do.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I have done that before that way I could get a few days of cooking on them at power levels they will never see voltage wise. And just used the speakers with the old crossover until it had some time on the new one.
Still took a lot of time to finish just maybe not as long.Absolute corruption empowers absolutely.
Lg 55LW5600 TV
Onkyo PR-SC 5508
Legacy Audio Focus SE
Legacy Audio Silverscreen HD center
Polk F/X500i Rears
Parasound HCA-3500
Sunfire Grand Cinema
Behringer iNUKE NU6000DSP
Pair of CraigSUB SS-18.1 -
Guys these are fluid coupled speakers. The crossovers must be submersed in fluid when you burn them in or they will never sound right. When done properly the fluid, sealed tightly inside the cabinets, is conditioned at the same rate as the crossovers to create a good synergy between them. If you burn in the crossovers outside the cabinets you are just pissing in the wind.
BTW, I have some extra burned in fluid for sale if anyone has lost some out of their speakers. :razz:- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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Guys these are fluid coupled speakers. The crossovers must be submersed in fluid when you burn them in or they will never sound right. When done properly the fluid, sealed tightly inside the cabinets, is conditioned at the same rate as the crossovers to create a good synergy between them. If you burn in the crossovers outside the cabinets you are just pissing in the wind.
BTW, I have some extra burned in fluid for sale if anyone has lost some out of their speakers. :razz:Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »LOL....my fluids run dry, can I have some?
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat