Recap burn-in

drumiv
drumiv Posts: 171
edited February 2014 in Vintage Speakers
After recapping your cross-over's, did you guy's get immediate gratification, or was there a burn-in, as with receivers / amps?
Post edited by drumiv on
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Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited February 2014
    You will notice a difference right away, but depending on the brand of caps it will take hundreds of hours before they settle.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited February 2014
    This^^^^^^^^
    You'll get instant and extended gratification. Don't be surprised if they sound different from one day or week to the next, until the caps are fully burned in.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
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  • drumiv
    drumiv Posts: 171
    edited February 2014
    Thanks gents. My first impression was mixed. I thought the tweeters weren't working. Then, I realized we had just been listening to my JBL L112's, which could be considered "bright". After about 5 cd's, I started liking them a lot more. As far as caps go, I know there are Sonicaps, but not sure of the rest, although my tech posted a picture of one of the completed x/o's in another thread; "ready to upgrade my SRS X/O's". More break-in time today. Thanks again for your input.
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,414
    edited February 2014
    Ive used clairity caps and it tood 300 hours to FULLY settle in, but well worth the wait.. it was a roller coaster to that point sound was better, worse, better, better basically all over the place! But once complete, WOW!
    Main Rig:
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited February 2014
    JBL loved their Titanium Domes Tweeters. I hate them, way too bright, even piercing at times. I recapped and re-foamed a pair of L100-T3s for a customer a year ago. Tried everything to convince him to change to Textile Domes, but he wanted them all original. Said he liked the highs. To each his own.

    Sonicaps 150-200 hours at least for burn-in. It's silky smooth after that..
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • drumiv
    drumiv Posts: 171
    edited February 2014
    I thought as much about the burn-in, just needed a little positive reinforcement. They sounded so good before pulling the x/o's. I guess I was expecting an "Oh-my-Gawd" moment with the recap. Thanks again.
  • drumiv
    drumiv Posts: 171
    edited February 2014
    Well, what a difference a day makes. WOW! Today (yesterday, actually), the tweeters seemed to much, and the bass not enough. Definitely going through some changes. However, all of a sudden, on about the 6th cd(Weather Report / Mysterious Traveler), the sound stage got huge. At one point, the speakers disappeared, and the sound was coming from 280*. Very cool. I can't wait 'till they totally break-in. Here's where you can say, "I- told-ya-so". Hats off to my tech,embrowno57,and Jeff at Sonicraft.
  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited February 2014
    If possible, set your cdp to "Repeat All" and let them cook 24/7 for a few days, any kind of signal will do.
  • StantonZ
    StantonZ Posts: 444
    edited February 2014
    If possible, set your cdp to "Repeat All" and let them cook 24/7 for a few days, any kind of signal will do.

    Was going to suggest something similar, but would use something like Pandora so you don't you don't cook your drive mechanism at the same time...
    Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV
    (4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)
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  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited February 2014
    StantonZ wrote: »
    Was going to suggest something similar, but would use something like Pandora so you don't you don't cook your drive mechanism at the same time...

    Yep, like I said, any kind of signal will do.
  • drumiv
    drumiv Posts: 171
    edited February 2014
    Good idea, thanks.
  • embrown057
    embrown057 Posts: 46
    edited February 2014
    Just 200+ hours left till audio nirvana.
  • rekterx
    rekterx Posts: 17
    edited February 2014
    New guy here. I've had some Monitor4's for 25 years and I just picked up a pair of Monitor10's in apparently good condition ... they sound great.

    Soon I'll pull the drivers and glue the magnets and do the dynamat thing. Eventually I'll do the crossovers.

    Here is my new guy question that may make me sound really stupid. I am a novice when it comes to electronics. Is there a way to "burn-in" the crossover components before you install them?
  • agfrost
    agfrost Posts: 2,428
    edited February 2014
    rekterx wrote: »

    Here is my new guy question that may make me sound really stupid. I am a novice when it comes to electronics. Is there a way to "burn-in" the crossover components before you install them?
    Interesting question. There are some that "pre-condition" speaker cables, interconnects, power cords, even internal speaker wiring; I don't recall seeing anyone doing that for capacitors/resistors. Standard protocol seems to be "let 'em play".

    Welcome to Club Polk, enjoy your speakers!
    Jay
    SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
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  • embrown057
    embrown057 Posts: 46
    edited February 2014
    There's just no substitute for burn in using "real music". Unlike electrolytic caps film caps like PP take longer for the disarray of electrons and dipoles to align. As far as "pre conditioning" you may get some break-in but that's subjective at best. The more power/current you can put into the speaker/crossover will speed up the process but all in all you'll just have to do as we all do, hurry up and Waite.
  • rekterx
    rekterx Posts: 17
    edited February 2014
    Thanks guys. I suspect when I get around to the xo's that I'll have to follow "standard protocol." But I'm not convinced there isn't a way around that. I just don't know what it is, if it does exist.
  • drumiv
    drumiv Posts: 171
    edited February 2014
    rekterx wrote: »
    Thanks guys. I suspect when I get around to the xo's that I'll have to follow "standard protocol." But I'm not convinced there isn't a way around that. I just don't know what it is, if it does exist.
    Some things there's just no getting around. embrown057 knows what he's talking about.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,442
    edited February 2014
    Just turn on the radio and let them go
  • embrown057
    embrown057 Posts: 46
    edited February 2014
    Not convinced? Well the scientist are still looking for the "GOD" particle. So if you do find a way around it let them know, your up for the Noble Prize. Anyway look at it like this. I guitar player buys a brand new top of the line Custom built ax. It sounds good right from the luthier's hands. He spend 10k+ on all the exotic woods and inlays. He still finds it's not quite up to what he expected. He play's that instrument for a few months and it starts to come alive. The more he uses it the better it sounds. He could have gone out and purchased a used ax that's been played but he found out long time ago it was a "hit and miss'. He knew he had to play "his music" to condition the instrument to his style and jandra. Let us know if you have a epiphany and find a way around it. Please excuse me if I sound a little curt. I get this all this time with customers and there restored amps and receivers. I tell them the same thing and low and behold after a few weeks or so they ALWAYS call me and say "it just coming alive" and can't believe the sound of this unit. We all want instant gratification, were human but something's take time.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited February 2014
    I have good news, there is a way around it. You roast them on an open fire until golden brown.....yummy!!!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • rekterx
    rekterx Posts: 17
    edited February 2014
    I don't dispute anything you say embrown. But I never disputed the reality of break-in/burn-in/conditioning. And I prefaced my question as saying that I knew it might sound stupid.

    But despite your self-described "curt" response I am still not convinced that it is impossible to break-in resistors and capacitors outside the context of where they will ultimately be used. Wire them up and run something through them. You actually said that the more power/current you run through them the better. Why can't that be done outside of a speaker?

    Nevertheless, as I have already said, I expect to go through the conditioning process within the speaker. I just won't be able run them 24 hours a day until they "settle in" and as you've already said I'll just have to hurry up and wait.

    I'm not here to be argumentative. I love my Polks and I want to learn more about them.

    Thanks to all who responded to my question.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited February 2014
    Why can't that be done outside of a speaker?

    With what?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • brgman
    brgman Posts: 2,859
    edited February 2014
    F1nut wrote: »
    With what?

    12V battery and jumper cables.
    Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC

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  • rekterx
    rekterx Posts: 17
    edited February 2014
    With what?

    What goes through them inside of a speaker? Why can't it go through them outside of a speaker? I'm sure that caps and resistors have other applications than inside of speakers.

    Look. I'm not expecting to uncover a great process here. Even if it can be done to some degree I think embrown was saying that the best way to break these puppies in is to use them inside of the system they will be used in ... the relationship of the parts being greater than the sum of the parts or something like that. I can buy that.

    I just asked a question. And while it may be a weird question and not standard protocol it may be an interesting experiment for somebody.

    I strongly suspect that are some Nobel Prize winners who started out by pursuing a lead that did not fit "standard protocol."
  • rekterx
    rekterx Posts: 17
    edited February 2014
    Good night everyone.

    I'll be lurking in the days ahead trying to learn a little here and there. Occasionally I'll ask a question if I can't find my answer. But I seriously doubt that I'll have any more Nobel Prize aspiring questions.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited February 2014
    Sure you could wire up external crossovers and run a signal thru them, but what's the point? Just more work to do.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Phasewolf
    Phasewolf Posts: 514
    edited February 2014
    I have done that before that way I could get a few days of cooking on them at power levels they will never see voltage wise. And just used the speakers with the old crossover until it had some time on the new one.

    Still took a lot of time to finish just maybe not as long.
    Absolute corruption empowers absolutely.

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  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
    edited February 2014
    Guys these are fluid coupled speakers. The crossovers must be submersed in fluid when you burn them in or they will never sound right. When done properly the fluid, sealed tightly inside the cabinets, is conditioned at the same rate as the crossovers to create a good synergy between them. If you burn in the crossovers outside the cabinets you are just pissing in the wind. :lol:
    BTW, I have some extra burned in fluid for sale if anyone has lost some out of their speakers. :razz:
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited February 2014
    TennMan wrote: »
    Guys these are fluid coupled speakers. The crossovers must be submersed in fluid when you burn them in or they will never sound right. When done properly the fluid, sealed tightly inside the cabinets, is conditioned at the same rate as the crossovers to create a good synergy between them. If you burn in the crossovers outside the cabinets you are just pissing in the wind. :lol:
    BTW, I have some extra burned in fluid for sale if anyone has lost some out of their speakers. :razz:
    LOL....my fluids run dry, can I have some?
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
    edited February 2014
    LOL....my fluids run dry, can I have some?
    Sure thing David! Be watching for a gallon milk jug to show up on your doorstep soon. I'll include a pair of plastic 3D glasses so you can see the fluid when you pour it out of the jug. You did know that burned in coupling fluid is 3D didn't you? Without the 3D glasses you can't even see it. Most people don't even know it's in the cabinets and unknowingly let it out the first time they open the cabinets.
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet