SDA purchase and in need of rebuild

13

Comments

  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,101
    edited June 2013
    warren wrote: »
    A RCA cable will work for the interconnect cable. That's what I use, and it works just fine.
    Aside from the pin/blade issue, a typical RCA-terminated interconnect cable has a thin, undersized conductor that will provide excessive resistance when used to carry the SDA signal. An RCA-terminated interconnect cable is intended to be connected into a load of perhaps 20,000 ohms. There's essentially no current flow. Compare that to a load presented by a speaker--almost universally under 16 ohms. The current draw is immensely more severe.

    If you think your "RCA cable" is working "just fine", you have a wonderful surprise in store when you get a proper SDA interconnect in place--something with at least a 16-gauge conductor inside.
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  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited June 2013
    If he will sell both for $60 free shipping be happy.
    custopper30 wrote: »
    Just did, what price would you say go for them if I was able to buy two of them?
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
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  • warren
    warren Posts: 756
    edited June 2013
    PolkieMan wrote: »
    If he will sell both for $60 free shipping be happy.
    Thanks, I got the skinny about the RCA cable, from Ken while he was at Polk. If like to buy one, but how?
    Some final words,
    "If you keep banging your head against the wall,
    you're going to have headaches."
    Warren
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  • canadianicon25
    canadianicon25 Posts: 200
    edited June 2013
    you might be able to make one still using an RCA connector but using 16g stranded wire. you would have to see if the RCA connector could take that thick of wire.

    other people have disconnected the original socket and replaced it with a binding post so a banana plug can be used.
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  • custopper30
    custopper30 Posts: 252
    edited June 2013
    He sold two out of the three for 35 a piece =( still on the look for those.
    Receiver: Denon 1912
    Speakers:
    Fronts: Polk Audio Monitor 70s (x2)
    Rears: Polk Audio Monitor 50 (x2)
    Center: Polk Audio Monitor 70
    KLH Sub GFX-550
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  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited June 2013
    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=091-120
    http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023902&p_id=2819&seq=1&format=2


    warren wrote: »
    Thanks, I got the skinny about the RCA cable, from Ken while he was at Polk. If like to buy one, but how?
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
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  • warren
    warren Posts: 756
    edited June 2013
    PolkieMan wrote: »
    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=091-120
    http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023902&p_id=2819&seq=1&format=2
    thank you so much for getting me to think, I'm 74 & 3/4...
    Some final words,
    "If you keep banging your head against the wall,
    you're going to have headaches."
    Warren
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  • hertz9753
    hertz9753 Posts: 310
    edited June 2013
    warren wrote: »
    thank you so much for getting me to think, I'm 74 & 3/4...

    1939? :cool:
    AVR-Onkyo TX-NR808
    Front amp-Adcom GFA 555>Polk Audio LSi9's(Vr3 Castle Mods)
    Center amp-Adcom GFA 5400>Polk Audio LSi9 bi-wired(Vr3 Castle Mod)
    Surrounds-Polk Audio F/X500's<Onkyo TX-NR808
    Sub-Velodyne SPL-1000R
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  • custopper30
    custopper30 Posts: 252
    edited June 2013
    Man I feel young... 1993
    Receiver: Denon 1912
    Speakers:
    Fronts: Polk Audio Monitor 70s (x2)
    Rears: Polk Audio Monitor 50 (x2)
    Center: Polk Audio Monitor 70
    KLH Sub GFX-550
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  • warren
    warren Posts: 756
    edited June 2013
    Nov.26, 1938 AD
    Some final words,
    "If you keep banging your head against the wall,
    you're going to have headaches."
    Warren
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  • hertz9753
    hertz9753 Posts: 310
    edited June 2013
    warren wrote: »
    Nov.26, 1938 AD

    I think this needs an off topic thread. :wink:
    AVR-Onkyo TX-NR808
    Front amp-Adcom GFA 555>Polk Audio LSi9's(Vr3 Castle Mods)
    Center amp-Adcom GFA 5400>Polk Audio LSi9 bi-wired(Vr3 Castle Mod)
    Surrounds-Polk Audio F/X500's<Onkyo TX-NR808
    Sub-Velodyne SPL-1000R
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  • hertz9753
    hertz9753 Posts: 310
    edited June 2013
    custopper30 wrote: »
    Man I feel young... 1993

    Sorry to jack your thread. http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?149762-What-year-were-you-born

    You are doing great. I thought you would be older. :smile:
    AVR-Onkyo TX-NR808
    Front amp-Adcom GFA 555>Polk Audio LSi9's(Vr3 Castle Mods)
    Center amp-Adcom GFA 5400>Polk Audio LSi9 bi-wired(Vr3 Castle Mod)
    Surrounds-Polk Audio F/X500's<Onkyo TX-NR808
    Sub-Velodyne SPL-1000R
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  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited June 2013
    Your welcome warren
    I'm just looking at things on the cheap end he said college was eating up his money.
    Besides I am cheap :razz:
    But I still thought someone said Blade/Blade?
    warren wrote: »
    thank you so much for getting me to think, I'm 74 & 3/4...
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
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  • custopper30
    custopper30 Posts: 252
    edited June 2013
    anyways.. So would everyone say use bondo to repair the sides/groves? Is that the best thing to use?
    Receiver: Denon 1912
    Speakers:
    Fronts: Polk Audio Monitor 70s (x2)
    Rears: Polk Audio Monitor 50 (x2)
    Center: Polk Audio Monitor 70
    KLH Sub GFX-550
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  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited June 2013
    custopper30 wrote: »
    anyways.. So would everyone say use bondo to repair the sides/groves? Is that the best thing to use?

    Yup.

    IMG_4658.jpg
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited June 2013
    Of course, you need to remove the vinyl laminate first. Get a heat gun and a paint scraper, work carefully so you don't damage the cabinets.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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  • custopper30
    custopper30 Posts: 252
    edited June 2013
    why remove the vinyl? I was just going to rough it up and build over it and then sand it down till it is back to perfection. Then I was going to lay wood veneer over it? Wouldn't that be better?
    Receiver: Denon 1912
    Speakers:
    Fronts: Polk Audio Monitor 70s (x2)
    Rears: Polk Audio Monitor 50 (x2)
    Center: Polk Audio Monitor 70
    KLH Sub GFX-550
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,442
    edited June 2013
    custopper30 wrote: »
    why remove the vinyl? I was just going to rough it up and build over it and then sand it down till it is back to perfection. Then I was going to lay wood veneer over it? Wouldn't that be better?

    When you build a house you need a solid foundation right? Well when you build on top of the old vinyl you won't have a solid foundation. The old needs to be removed you'll thank us later.
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  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited June 2013
    Removing the vinyl is very easy with a heat gun. Following on pitdogg2's comments, when you have paint peeling off a house, you don't just paint over it, you power wash, sand, scrape, etc. to get as much off as possible. This is no different. Get that vinyl 100% off before you do any refinishing work.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
    edited June 2013
    If you are going to use real wood veneer, what do you about the small ledge that protrudes out below the grills? It has rounded ends that look like they would be hard to get wood veneer to conform to them.
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
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  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,648
    edited June 2013
    Most "normal" wood veneer comes in rolls. No different than that.

    Some exotics cam in flat sheets because they split too easily when bent.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited June 2013
    custopper30 wrote: »
    why remove the vinyl? I was just going to rough it up and build over it and then sand it down till it is back to perfection. Then I was going to lay wood veneer over it? Wouldn't that be better?

    As the others have indicated, that simply will not work, period.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited June 2013
    TennMan wrote: »
    If you are going to use real wood veneer, what do you about the small ledge that protrudes out below the grills? It has rounded ends that look like they would be hard to get wood veneer to conform to them.

    Can't say for certain because I don't have these speakers, but if they're anything like my CRS+ project, that bottom trim under the grill is a piece of wood attached with glue/dowels. When my brother-in-law did the woodwork, he fabricated a new trim piece out of solid maple to match the veneer, and rounded it with a router.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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  • custopper30
    custopper30 Posts: 252
    edited June 2013
    I was just going to bondo it all up and make it corner edges instead of the rounded edges. That will look really nice and be easier, I think :rolleyes:

    Comments? I will start removing the vinyl tonight possibly.
    Receiver: Denon 1912
    Speakers:
    Fronts: Polk Audio Monitor 70s (x2)
    Rears: Polk Audio Monitor 50 (x2)
    Center: Polk Audio Monitor 70
    KLH Sub GFX-550
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  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited June 2013
    Mmmm, no. You want those edges round to match the contour of the grills.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
    edited June 2013
    nspindel wrote: »
    Can't say for certain because I don't have these speakers, but if they're anything like my CRS+ project, that bottom trim under the grill is a piece of wood attached with glue/dowels. When my brother-in-law did the woodwork, he fabricated a new trim piece out of solid maple to match the veneer, and rounded it with a router.
    Thanks for the info. The CRS+ are the ones I was asking about. I have a pair of them. If I keep them I might want to add real wood veneer some day and was wondering about what needed to be done at the bottom of the grills..
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
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  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited June 2013
    Be very careful removing the original piece, you don't want to split the pressboard cabinets by causing too much movement in the wooden dowels. My brother in law used a biscuit joiner to attach the maple trim pieces.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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  • custopper30
    custopper30 Posts: 252
    edited June 2013
    Is there any special things I need to do when removing the vinyl?

    All I know is that I just heat it up with the heat gun and then slip the putty knife and slowly start heating and removing the vinyl??
    Receiver: Denon 1912
    Speakers:
    Fronts: Polk Audio Monitor 70s (x2)
    Rears: Polk Audio Monitor 50 (x2)
    Center: Polk Audio Monitor 70
    KLH Sub GFX-550
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  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited June 2013
    Just work carefully and don't screw up :lol:
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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  • custopper30
    custopper30 Posts: 252
    edited June 2013
    So far it is going well. Almost done with the first speakers and it is the first time for me looking at the bottom of the speakers and man oh man, are they super chipped up and rough......
    Receiver: Denon 1912
    Speakers:
    Fronts: Polk Audio Monitor 70s (x2)
    Rears: Polk Audio Monitor 50 (x2)
    Center: Polk Audio Monitor 70
    KLH Sub GFX-550
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