Piano Gloss Cherry RTiA5's

specd_out

I always loved Piano finished cherry wood or rose wood speakers. But 90% of them are out of my price range. For the longest time I have been considering doing a lacquer finish over the original cherry stain. I was googling how to do it when I cam across a guy who greatly improved his Lsi7 just by hand polishing them with some automotive polishing compounds. I used paint and detail cars so I had the same compound he used as well as a random orbit polisher and a high speed buffer.

So I took this guys idea and went one step further. I tested it by flipping over my center channel, hit with the high speed buffer and the polished it out with the random orbit. I did a 3 step process vs his 1 step. It came out great. So I did the rest of my setup.

Before

After

In the process of

Side by side comparison of the difference

No Photoshop I swear, thats just the finish

It took about 5hrs to do. I already had the tools and materials so it cost me nothing. If anyone is interested in doing it let me know I can offer some assistance

specd_out

DSkip wrote: »

Nice job! Makes the speaker look MUCH more high-end than it is.

Hey now, what exactly are you saying here

jk

I said the same thing

teekay0007

Nice work, spec, they look terrific! :biggrin: "The glare, can't handle the glare!" :cool:

Any swirl marks on close inspection? What maintenance steps, if any, will it take to keep them looking like that? Are the tools and materials both readily available to anyone? How much skill is involved and can "mistakes" be readily corrected?

cfrizz

WOW! that is absolutely beautiful, congratulations and great work!

mantis

Very nice , 3 step process I'm assuming you used. Cut polish and wax. Now keeping them like that should be pretty easy from here on out.

Great job.

WagnerRC

Looks really nice.

leroyjr1

Looking good.

GlennDog

WOW . . . really nice . . .
I bet you're in marketing or photography now cuz the pics of the one speaker reflecting in the gloss of the other is just too kewl

G

specd_out

Yes I did wool with a light cutting polish on high speed buffer. Polishing compound on orbital with a light cut foam pad. Wax on orbital with a finishing pad.

Teekay. No swirl marks. I wouldn't allow it lol. For a person not familiar with buffing I would not recommend using a high speed buffer. You can get a nice shine by hand or a better shine using a orbital polisher . if you go by hand or by orbital u can't really do any damage.

F1nut

For the longest time I have been considering doing a lacquer finish over the original cherry stain.

Well, that would have been a complete waste because there is a clear coat finish over the cherry stain already. That finish has a flat sheen and to obtain a flat sheen flatting agents are added to standard gloss clear coats. The amount of flatting agents added determines the final sheen. The problem with a flat sheen is when it gets rubbed the sheen is no longer flat. Rub a flat sheen enough and it becomes a satin to semi-gloss sheen. I see this all the time and a lot with dining room tables where the areas that people have their arms on the table top become shinier than the rest of the table. I advise my customers that while I can apply a new flat sheen clear coat on top of the exsisting finish the same thing will occur. I advise them that they are better off having me rub out the flat sheen to a stain or semi-gloss or if they wish I can use polishing agents to get a gloss sheen, which is what you have done here. The downside to a gloss sheen is it shows dust like crazy and any scratches really stand out. Satin is the best choice of sheens, IMO.

3 step process I'm assuming you used. Cut polish and wax.

In this case there would be no need to cut or use rubbing compound as the finish is already smooth. Just proceed straight to using polishing agents. There would be no need to wax either. 99% of the time wax is a complete waste of time and money. As long as the clear coat finish is in good conditon it needs nothing applied to it.

mantis

F1nut wrote: »

In this case there would be no need to cut or use rubbing compound as the finish is already smooth. Just proceed straight to using polishing agents. There would be no need to wax either. 99% of the time wax is a complete waste of time and money. As long as the clear coat finish is in good conditon it needs nothing applied to it.

What about a cleaning Polish? What is some Oxidation has occurred over the years , maybe some sunlight hitting the one side of the speaker? I would think some kind of light compound or a polish with cleaners would help remove the sun staining?
Waxing I thought would help protect the finish after it's been prepped and polished. In the automotive field , I use to detail cars and ran detail shops. I know Automotive paint is very different then finishes on wood but I would assume some of the technic's used to clean and protect the finish would be the same.
I'm assuming your in the wood finishing or making business?

specd_out

F1nut wrote: »

Well, that would have been a complete waste because there is a clear coat finish over the cherry stain already. That finish has a flat sheen and to obtain a flat sheen flatting agents are added to standard gloss clear coats. The amount of flatting agents added determines the final sheen. The problem with a flat sheen is when it gets rubbed the sheen is no longer flat. Rub a flat sheen enough and it becomes a satin to semi-gloss sheen. I see this all the time and a lot with dining room tables where the areas that people have their arms on the table top become shinier than the rest of the table. I advise my customers that while I can apply a new flat sheen clear coat on top of the exsisting finish the same thing will occur. I advise them that they are better off having me rub out the flat sheen to a stain or semi-gloss or if they wish I can use polishing agents to get a gloss sheen, which is what you have done here. The downside to a gloss sheen is it shows dust like crazy and any scratches really stand out. Satin is the best choice of sheens, IMO.



In this case there would be no need to cut or use rubbing compound as the finish is already smooth. Just proceed straight to using polishing agents. There would be no need to wax either. 99% of the time wax is a complete waste of time and money. As long as the clear coat finish is in good conditon it needs nothing applied to it.

Ok well that explains a lot. I had no idea that it was clear coated. I was in disbelief when I polished it up and it shined. I figured there was a protective lacquer that was dull. I have painted a few flat semi and gloss clears in the past. I never thought that it would be used on wood.

The "cutting" polish I used was just a mequiers polish that uses the polymers that react with the heat from buffing to become abrasive. Its doesnt have any grit. Just slightly more aggressive then the polish. Wool pad definitely help speed up the process.

specd_out

GlennDog wrote: »

WOW . . . really nice . . .
I bet you're in marketing or photography now cuz the pics of the one speaker reflecting in the gloss of the other is just too kewl

G

I do neither, but I love doing photography for fun on the side. Sometimes I have an eye for a cool angle. Most of the time I dont lol

ratster

Very nice. Wish the black on my lsi15's looked like that.

htrdln

that looks awesome!

zane77

Great job, makes a really nice cabinet look awesome!

F1nut

What about a cleaning Polish?

It's BIG business and completely unnecessary. Fine to use for cleaning if one must use something, but it does nothing to "help" a finish, nor can it moisturize the wood or any of the other stuff they say. All that is needed is a damp cloth to remove the dust....done.

What i[f] some Oxidation has occurred over the years , maybe some sunlight hitting the one side of the speaker?

You can't stop or fix oxidation, it will happen no matter what. You can apply a liquid polish that will help hide the issue until the polish evaporates. Since wax doesn't evaporate it will hide the issue longer. Neither wax or polish protect against oxidation, solvents, sunlight, heat or water. If sunlight has caused actual damage to the clear coat, it's time to restore the finish (depending on the finish) or refinish the item.

I would think some kind of light compound or a polish with cleaners would help remove the sun staining?

Sunlight doesn't stain, it bleaches. Once the color is gone, it's gone. There are tricks to restore the color, but nothing you can buy off the shelf.

Waxing I thought would help protect the finish after it's been prepped and polished.

Wax only protects in the sense that it reduces friction and therefore objects tend to slide rather than grab or dig in. Wax does nothing to "help" the finish.

In the automotive field , I use to detail cars and ran detail shops. I know Automotive paint is very different then finishes on wood but I would assume some of the technic's used to clean and protect the finish would be the same.

Same in the sense that the wax reduces friction and therefore objects tend to slide rather than grab or dig in. Wax does nothing to "help" the finish.

I'm assuming your in the wood finishing or making business?

I restore/conserve/refinish antique furniture as well as do work on newer furntiure. I am not a cabinetmaker.

F1nut

The "cutting" polish I used was just a mequiers polish that uses the polymers that react with the heat from buffing to become abrasive. Its doesnt have any grit. Just slightly more aggressive then the polish. Wool pad definitely help speed up the process.

Roger that. I got in the habit of using 3M products, but know some others that use Meguiars.

specd_out

F1nut wrote: »

Roger that. I got in the habit of using 3M products, but know some others that use Meguiars.

I started with 3m but dare I say it, I felt that 3m didnt have some of the latest tech in polishes. I found I could get better finished product quicker and easier with Meguiars and I was able to use it on fresh paint. But thats in the automotive field.

Heat activated abrasives are a god send when working on fresh paint

I use 3m wet/dry sand paper

specd_out

Took a few better shots with my accent lighting.


the wood has so much vibrance to it now.

Bigerik

Holy crap. Those look amazing. Nice work.

Thorton

F1nut wrote: »

Well, that would have been a complete waste because there is a clear coat finish over the cherry stain already. That finish has a flat sheen and to obtain a flat sheen flatting agents are added to standard gloss clear coats. The amount of flatting agents added determines the final sheen. The problem with a flat sheen is when it gets rubbed the sheen is no longer flat. Rub a flat sheen enough and it becomes a satin to semi-gloss sheen. I see this all the time and a lot with dining room tables where the areas that people have their arms on the table top become shinier than the rest of the table. I advise my customers that while I can apply a new flat sheen clear coat on top of the exsisting finish the same thing will occur. I advise them that they are better off having me rub out the flat sheen to a stain or semi-gloss or if they wish I can use polishing agents to get a gloss sheen, which is what you have done here. The downside to a gloss sheen is it shows dust like crazy and any scratches really stand out. Satin is the best choice of sheens, IMO.



In this case there would be no need to cut or use rubbing compound as the finish is already smooth. Just proceed straight to using polishing agents. There would be no need to wax either. 99% of the time wax is a complete waste of time and money. As long as the clear coat finish is in good conditon it needs nothing applied to it.

Correct on both. Sheen comes down to personal preference. Just like house paint on walls for aesthetics and maintenance. I prefer satin but those speakers do look amazing. Nice job. Maybe I should change fields and start a business.

Conradicles

Looking fantastic!

Thorton

F1nut wrote: »

It's BIG business and completely unnecessary. Fine to use for cleaning if one must use something, but it does nothing to "help" a finish, nor can it moisturize the wood or any of the other stuff they say. All that is needed is a damp cloth to remove the dust....done.



You can't stop or fix oxidation, it will happen no matter what. You can apply a liquid polish that will help hide the issue until the polish evaporates. Since wax doesn't evaporate it will hide the issue longer. Neither wax or polish protect against oxidation, solvents, sunlight, heat or water. If sunlight has caused actual damage to the clear coat, it's time to restore the finish (depending on the finish) or refinish the item.



Sunlight doesn't stain, it bleaches. Once the color is gone, it's gone. There are tricks to restore the color, but nothing you can buy off the shelf.



Wax only protects in the sense that it reduces friction and therefore objects tend to slide rather than grab or dig in. Wax does nothing to "help" the finish.



Same in the sense that the wax reduces friction and therefore objects tend to slide rather than grab or dig in. Wax does nothing to "help" the finish.



I restore/conserve/refinish antique furniture as well as do work on newer furntiure. I am not a cabinetmaker.

Correct again. The sunlight can do two things. One, break down the clear coat and cause it to bleach or other defects and two it can penetrate through the clear coat to the stain and cause discoloration.

specd_out

Thanks for all the compliments.

I would gladly do this for anyone interested in having it done.

Elementtw1023

specd_out wrote: »

Thanks for all the compliments.

I would gladly do this for anyone interested in having it done.

Yes please!! I wonder how the black would look all polished

leftwinger57

F1nut ,you are so totally right about the sun bleaching. When I got my Bose 601s they were looked like so many pieces of driftwood both had been direct sunlight it seems for years then left in a hot attic to fry. I did resurrect them by a massive cleaning, staining w/ Olde English that just saoked right in then some beeswax polish after they set a while. Again I got them for $20 , $30 for the refoam kit kept them for about 9 months and flipped them on C/L for $215.

Poolgod69

Depressing.... I have the RTi A9's in black. I wanted the Cherry but could not find them for the price I got my A9's at (Fry's 419.00 each as a floor demo). I am willing to sell mine and purchase the cherries for a few bucks more.

I think the speakers look insane and I like the spikes. What type are they and what are you placing them on?

amgala

Wow, just saw this thread now. The polished speakers look AMAZING! Great job

WLDock

Awesome!

gudnoyez

Those look great wish my black A5's gleemed like that.